Lantern Sleeve Maxi Dress

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings, labels, notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Single Welt Pockets, mark the placements.

Interfacing

OPTIONAL Facing – Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to both Front and Back Facing pieces.

OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket – Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to both Single Welt Pockets and to the wrong side of the Side Skirt (using the Single Welt Pocket piece for size) where the pocket markings are.

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that are used around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the neckline and armscye are likely to stretch and then your garment won’t fit properly.

Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Staystitch the neckline on the Front Bodice. Starting at the center, stitch towards each side in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the armscyes on the Front Bodice. Starting at the bottom of the armscye, stitch up towards the shoulder in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the neckline on both Back Bodices, starting at the center and stitching out in the direction of the arrows. 

Staystitch the armscyes, stitching in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the top of each Short Sleeve starting at the centers and stitching in the direction of the arrows. 

TIP – Use a longer stitch here, like a basting stitch, leaving the thread tails long at the center. You can use these for easing in the Short Sleeve later if necessary. 

Staystitch the top of all the Skirt pieces (x5), starting at the center and stitching out in the direction of the arrows. 

OPTIONAL Bias Binding

If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create single fold for the neckline binding option, the bodice and skirt seam, and the optional Lantern Sleeve to Short Sleeve seam. You will need double fold bias binding for the Sleeveless option 

Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding. 

If you are not adding pockets, skip to step 2. If you are adding pockets, follow below.

Serge or zigzag stitch all raw edges of the four Single Welt Pocket Bag pieces.

Baste the rectangle pattern marking. 

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Stitch 1 inch up and down all sides of the rectangle, extending the basting stitches.

NOTE – The extension of the pocket placement stitch lines will help accurately line up the pieces when stitching the Single Welt Pocket.  

Press the Single Welt Pocket in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. 

OPTIONAL – Serge or zig zag stitch the short ends to finish the raw edge.

NOTE – The long edge of the Single Welt Pocket does not need finishing in this step. 

Place the Single Welt Pocket onto the Side Skirt, right sides facing. Center the Single Welt Pocket with the basted rectangle and match the raw edge of the Welt pocket to the bottom line. Pin.

NOTE – The Single Welt Pocket will extend past the short edges of the basted rectangle edges.

Turn the Side Skirt over to the wrong side and stitch along the top line. 

Place the Single Welt Pocket Bag onto the Side Skirt, right sides together, matching the straight edge to the folded edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Pin.

Turn the Side Skirt over to the wrong side and stitch along the bottom line. 

NOTE – It is important to start and stop stitching precisely in the corners of the rectangle. The Single Welt Pocket won’t turn correctly or look as neat if the stitching goes beyond the rectangle.

Turn the Side Skirt over so it lays right side up. Fold the Single Welt Pocket Bag back and carefully trim the Single Welt Pocket seam allowance approximately in half. 

Flip the straight edge of the Single Welt Pocket Bag back up over the seam. Pin. 

Turn the Side Skirt over to the wrong side and stitch along the top line. You will be stitching directly over the stitch line from step 1.5.

NOTE – It is important to start and stop stitching precisely in the corners of the rectangle. The Single Welt Pocket won’t turn correctly or look as neat if the stitching goes beyond the rectangle.

NOTE – There will now be two lines of stitching on the Single Welt Pocket Bag when the Side Skirt is laying right sides up.

With the Side Skirt facing right side up, draw a straight line down the center of the rectangle on the Single Welt Pocket Bag, starting and stopping ½ inch inside either side of the stitches. 

Draw a line connecting the end of that line to each corner, creating Y shapes at each end of the line.

Carefully cut through all layers along the central line, and up to the corners on each end. Take careful, slow snips up the Y toward one corner. Be sure to clip all the way to but not through the stitches.  

Push the Single Welt Pocket Bag and Single Welt Pocket through the opening to the wrong side of the Side Skirt. 

Flatten the Single Welt Pocket Bag and Single Welt Pocket out. Press from the right side. 

TIP – Pull the triangle ends of the Single Welt Pocket to make sure the short ends of the opening are even.

With the right side of the Side Skirt facing up, pin the Single Welt Pocket Bag to the long edge of the Single Welt Pocket, at the unopened edge. 

Edgestitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Turn the Side Skirt to the wrong side. Place the mirror image Single Welt Pocket Bag onto the stitched Single Welt Pocket Bag, right sides facing. Pin. 

With the right side of the Side Skirt facing up, fold the Skirt to the right side. Pull the small triangles taught and stitch across the base of the triangle.

Continue stitching around the edge of the Single Welt Pocket Bags, using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Turn the Side Skirt over, right sides facing up. Edge stitch the Skirt along both short edges and along the long edge.

Remove any visible basting stitches. 

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.16 for the other Single Welt Pocket.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Match the shoulder seams of the Front Bodice to the Back Bodice, right sides together and pin. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seams towards the Back Bodice. Skip to step 3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the front and back bodice together. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Lay the Front Bodice on top of the Back Bodice, wrong sides together (right sides out). Pin at the shoulder seam. 

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam). 

Turn right side out and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.6 for the other shoulder seam.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the side seams of the Bodice, right sides together. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Then skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Again we are going to sew French seams, following the same steps we did in step 2.

You are going to stitch the Front Bodice to the Back Bodice along the side seam using a French seam. 

With wrong sides together (right sides facing out), match the Front Bodice to the Back Bodice along the side seams and pin in place.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Press the seam open and as flat as possible. Then fold the seams right sides together and press, making sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Stitch again approximately a ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Turn right side out and press the seam again.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 to stitch the other side seams.

TIP – If you are using a larger button, you will need to increase the length of your Button Loop accordingly.

Take the fabric strip you cut for the Button Loop and fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin along the raw edge.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half.

Turn the tube right side out and press. 

There are several ways to turn the Loop right side out. If you have a preferred method, one you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is one option.

Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).

Clip a small tip off the corner of the side the needle will be going through. This will help the fabric to turn inside itself.  

Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.

The finished size of the Loop should be ¼ inch wide.

Press the Loop with the seam straight along one side.

Fold the Loop approximately in half. Place it on the wearer’s left side of the Back Bodice, right sides together, approximately ¾ inches from the neckline, matching raw edges, with the Loop facing the side seam. Mark the ½ inch seam allowance. Place the button onto the Button Loop and check that the Button Loop will fit over the button. Adjust accordingly, making sure you still have ½ inch seam allowance. Make sure the seams of the Loop touch and are laying side by side. Pin.

This will allow you to see how big the Loop needs to be for the button. 

Baste the Button Loop in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the ends of the Button Loop to match the edge.

TIP – Check that the button fits through the Button Loop easily before moving on to the next step. 

You can choose between two methods to finish the neckline and back keyhole opening.  

FACING METHOD: This finish is not visible from the outside of the garment. To follow this method, start at step 5.1. 

BINDING METHOD: The bias tape is turned all the way to the reverse of the fabric. It reinforces the neckline and creates a finish which is invisible from the exterior of the garment, except for the top stitching. This is a beautiful finish. However, if you are using a woven with very little give in it (e.g. a tighter weave), you may find it very difficult to turn the bias tape all the way over. To follow this method, start at step 5.13.

Place the Front and Back Facings right sides together, matching the shoulder seam. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam allowance open. 

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to stitch the other shoulder seam together.

The raw edges of the Facing need to be finished to prevent it from fraying. There are several methods to do this. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively follow the method below.

PRESSED EDGE: Fold the outside edge of the Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch in place.

TIP – Use fusible webbing to keep the pressed fold in place.

SERGER: Serge around the outside raw edges.

Mark the center of the front neckline and the front of the Facing. Match the centers and pin together. Match the shoulder seams.

Continue pinning the Facing to the neckline and along the back opening, laying the Facing with the right sides down on top of the Button Loop.

TIP – Check that the Button Loop is still facing the right way and is caught in between the Facing and the Bodice.

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance. Start stitching approximately 2 inches above the zipper marking. Continue up and around the Facing, stop stitching approximately 2 inches above the zipper marking on the other side of the Bodice.

NOTE – The bottom section will not be stitched until the Zipper is inserted in step 11.

TIP – To stop the Facing from flipping out, hand sew a few tacking stitches to the shoulder seam allowance to keep it in place.

Clip the corners on the Back on both sides to reduce bulk.

Snip or notch along the neckline into the seam allowance around the curved edge.

NOTE – Do not snip into the stitching.

Open the Facing so the Facing and Bodice are right sides facing up and lying flat. Press the seam allowance towards the Facing.

Understitch the neckline seam allowance to the Facing. 

NOTE – You won’t be able to stitch all the way to the corner of the neckline.

NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Facing approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Facing and Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the facing inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice. 

Flip the Facing over the Bodice, wrong sides together. Press. 

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Skip to step 6 for the sleeveless bodice, or step 7 for the short sleeve or lantern sleeve bodice option.

NECK BINDING OPTION: Trim ¼ inch seam allowance off the neckline and along the keyhole opening at the back, stopping at the zipper marking. 

Fold the binding in half lengthwise. Press.

Find the center of the bias binding piece and place it at the center of the front neckline, right sides together. Pin.

Keep pinning towards the back of each side of the Bodice, leaving a ½ inch tail at the end of the neckline on each side.

Stitch the bias binding onto the neckline using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – You are only using ¼ inch seam allowance as the seam allowance was trimmed by ¼ inch in step 5.11.

NOTE – Do not turn the bias binding to the wrong side of the neckline yet. 

Place the bias binding along the raw edge of the keyhole opening, right sides together, overlapping the neckline binding by ½ inch before starting to pin.  

Starting approximately ½ inch before the edge of the keyhole opening, stitch ¼ inch seam allowance along the neckline, pivoting at the corner, then stitching down the keyhole, stopping approximately 2-inches above the zipper marking.

NOTE – Check that you have caught the Button Loop in your stitches.

NOTE – The bottom section will be finished when you insert the zipper in step 11.

Clip the corner on the keyhole opening to reduce bulk.

Snip or notch into the seam allowance along the curved neckline. 

NOTE – Be careful not to snip into the stitching. 

Open the bias binding flat and press so the seam is flat. 

NOTE – Do not press the corner.

Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance to the wrong side. Press and pin.

TIP – Check that the bias binding cannot be seen from the right side of the Bodice. 

NOTE – Do not finish the bias binding yet, once the zipper is inserted in step 11, the bias binding will be top stitched in place. 

Repeat steps 5.13 to 5.18 for the other side of the keyhole opening.

If you are sewing the Sleeve options, skip to step 7. For the sleeveless version, follow below.

SERGER OPTION – Serge the armscye of the Bodice using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn under another ¼ inch, press, and topstitch in place.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Open the double fold bias binding and fold over the short end to the inside about a ¼ inch and press. 

Starting at the side seam, pin the binding along the armscye, right sides together, matching the raw edges.

Start stitching on the folded end of the binding and continue around the armscye. Stitch in the first fold aligning the edge of the bias binding ¼ inch in from the armhole. Overlap the end over the fold and stop stitching after crossing over it. 

Hold back the binding and trim the bodice seam allowance approximately ⅛ of an inch.

Clip the curves around the armscye, being very careful not to cut into the stitching. 

Press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the armscye.

Remove any visible staystitching left behind. 

Fold the binding all the way to the wrong side, over the seam allowance and enclosing all raw edges. The binding will now be on the inside.

Stitch the binding to the armscye about ⅛ inch from the edge of the bias tape to hold it in place.

The bias tape should now be totally attached to the armhole on both sides and the raw edges all enclosed.

Press.

Skip to step 9.

If you have sewn the Sleeveless option, skip to step 9. If you are sewing the Short Sleeve version, follow below. If you are sewing the Lantern Sleeve version, you will need to follow step 7 and step 8.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the straight short edges of the Sleeve together. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Insert the Sleeve into the Bodice, right sides together, matching the middle of the Sleeve to the center of the shoulder seam and matching side seams. Continue pinning the Sleeve, easing it along at the seam allowance. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Bodice. OPTIONAL: Topstitch the seam allowance in place approximately a ¼ inch from the armhole seam. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Stitch the short straight edges of the Sleeve together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Place the Sleeve inside the Bodice with the wrong sides facing each other. Match up the Sleeve, side seams, and the middle of the Sleeve with the shoulder seam. Pin.

Continue pinning the Sleeve, easing it along at the seam allowance. 

TIP – The Sleeve can be eased in using the tails of the staystitching. Gently pull the bobbin threads to gather a small amount, spread it evenly to match up the sleeve to the armscye.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half, being very careful not to cut into the Bodice or Sleeve underneath.

Clip into the curve, being careful not to cut into the stitching.  

Turn the Bodice wrong side out, with the Sleeve inside the Bodice, right sides facing. Pin along the armscye.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn right side out and press.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.6 for the second Sleeve. Then, skip to step 9. 

For the Lantern Sleeve OPTION, follow to step 8.

Skip to step 9 if you have sewn the Sleeveless or Short Sleeve only option. For the Lantern Sleeve, you will need to have followed step 7, before following below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold Lantern Sleeve in half, right sides together. Pin the long straight edges. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Follow steps 8.2 to 8.5. Then insert the Lantern Sleeve into the Short Sleeve, right sides together, matching up the seams. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Bodice. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Stitch the long straight edges of the Lantern Sleeve together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the top edge of the Lantern Sleeve.

Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them later when you go to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads I find I have!

Mark the quarter points on both the Lantern Sleeve and the Short Sleeve. 

Place the Lantern Sleeve inside the Short Sleeve, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.

Gather the stitches by pulling gently on both bobbin threads, until the Lantern Sleeve matches the raw edge of the Short Sleeve.

Gently spread out the gathers with your fingers so they are even.

Baste the gathers in place at ¼ inch.

You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias tape to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Sleeve. 

This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.

Turn the Sleeve so the wrong side of the Lantern Sleeve is on the outside. Place the bias binding onto the raw edge of the Lantern Sleeve seam, right sides together, leaving a 1-inch tail on either side. 

Carefully pinch the bias binding as close to the seam allowance as possible, taking care not to catch the fabric of the Sleeve. Place a pin at the base of the pinched section. 

Continue to pin around the seam allowance.

Pull the ends of bias binding away from the Lantern Sleeve fabric, taking care not to catch the fabric. 

Stitch the two pieces of bias binding together. 

Trim the excess fabric and press the seam allowance. 

Stitch around the Sleeve seam allowance using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance, be sure to cover the stitching from step 8.9. Pin.

‘Stitch in the ditch’, or stitch from the Lantern Sleeve side of the seam directly in the seam so the visible stitches are kept at a minimum.

Trim the raw edge of the bias binding, as close to the stitching as you can, without cutting into the seam.

Press the seam up toward the shoulder seam.

Fold the Sleeve hem ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Pin.

Fold the hem over again ½ inch. This will create a casing for the elastic. Pin.

Topstitch close to the folded edge, leaving approximately a 1-inch gap to insert the elastic.

Cut the elastic to 8 inches. Insert the elastic through the gap left in step 8.14. Pull it through the casing using a safety pin or bodkin.

FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their wrist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their wrist before continuing to the next step.

TIP – Pin the opposite end of the elastic to the Sleeve while threading it through the casing so it doesn’t get pulled inside. 

Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the casing.

Overlap the short ends of the elastic by ½ inch on each side (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch). Pin.

Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic.

Pull the elastic inside the casing. Topstitch the gap closed. 

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.17 for the other Lantern Sleeve.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front Skirt and a Side Skirt, right sides together. Pin. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the other Side Skirt to the other side of the Front Skirt. Press the seams to the back. Repeat again to attach the Back Skirt to each of the Side Skirts. Skip to step 10.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow below.

Stitch the seams of the Front Skirt to a Side Skirt together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Pin the Single Welt Pocket Bag away from the seam. You do not want to catch it while stitching the Front Skirt and Side Skirt together.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Repeat step 9.1 to stitch the second Side Skirt to the other side of the Front Skirt.

Repeat step 9.1 to stitch a Back Skirt to each Side Skirt.

NOTE – The center back seam of the Skirt will be left open. This will be finished in later steps.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 10.1 to 10.2. Then place the Bodice over the Skirt, right sides together, and pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 11.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow below.

Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the bottom edge of the Bodice, stopping 2 inches before the center back. This will make it easier to install the invisible zipper.

Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them later when you go to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads I find I have!

Mark the quarter points of the Bodice and the Skirt, using the center back seam as one of the points.

Place the Bodice over the Skirt, right sides facing.

Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the stitches. 

Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers, until the Bodice is gathered evenly between the quarter points.

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance. 

You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias tape to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Skirt. 

This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below.

With the Skirt on top of the Bodice, align the bias binding with the raw edge of the seam allowance, right sides together. Start at one center back seam, all the way around to the other center back seam. Pin.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Fold the bias binding up towards the Bodice, wrong sides together. Press. 

Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance. Press and pin in place.

With the Skirt on top, stitch in the ditch.

Trim any excess of the bias binding.

Press the bound seam up toward the Bodice. 

We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the dress.

• If you measure at the top of your size range, the dress should fit exactly. 
• If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the center back seam before continuing. 
• We recommend trying the dress on now and pinning the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. 
• If it fits as you wish, continue. 
• If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zipper. If you use a regular zipper, or don’t install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished dress will be too big. To help with this, we have made a short video. 

Read through the steps below, then watch the video here. 

Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.

Unzip your invisible zipper and place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.

When the zipper is closed the teeth of the zipper curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew.

I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat.

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zipper a little to make it easier to attach.

With your dress right sides facing up, move the Facing/Binding up and out of the way. You’ll be attaching the zipper to the Bodice and Skirt.

With the right zipper tape on the left side of the dress, right sides together (zipper teeth facing in towards your dress), line up the zipper with the top of the Bodice. Match the zipper stop to the top pattern marking on the Bodice and pin in place.

TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zipper on the correct side of the dress, and that they are facing right sides together. 

Shorten your zipper if necessary, to match the zipper length of 18 inches. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop the zipper going below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zip to the other.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can.  

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zipper to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper as close to the zipper pull as you can.

Close the zipper. You will then be able to check your stitches are correct and that the zipper can close easily.

Place a pin in the zipper tape where the bodice meets the skirt and at the end of the zipper where the stitching ends. This will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when you sew it to the opposite side of the dress.

Open the zipper. Repeat steps 11.2 to 11.4 with the left zipper tape on the right side of the dress.

It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards.

TIP – Check you are able to close the zipper before moving onto the next step.

Trim the excess of the top of the zipper tape. Be careful not to cut the metal stopper or below as you won’t be able to close the zipper.

FACING OPTION:  Starting on one side, flip the Facing over the zipper edge, right sides facing. Pin. Skip to step 11.7.

NOTE – You will be sandwiching the zipper between the Bodice and the Facing. 

BIAS BINDING OPTION: Starting on one side, flip the bias binding over the zipper edge, right sides facing. Pin. Then follow steps 5.14 to 5.19 to finish the bias binding. 

Topstitch along the neckline and each side of the Keyhole opening using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching ¼ inch in from the raw edge. Stop stitching ¼ inch from the bottom edge of the Facing. Be careful not to sew over the zipper teeth.

Hand stitch the Facing to the bound seam of the Skirt to secure it.

Repeat steps 11.6 to 11.7 for the opposite side of the Bodice.

You’ll now finish the Skirt seam allowance underneath the zipper, using a French seam. Alternatively, serge the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance

With the dress wrong sides facing up, carefully clip into the ½ inch seam allowance on either side of the zipper. 

Follow the same steps as in steps 2.1 to 2.6. 

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

The zipper edges will be bound using the Hong Kong method. 

Follow steps 10.4 to 10.10 to bind the raw edges of the zipper.

Align bias binding with the raw edge of the zipper.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Check that you are only stitching through the binding and the zipper, not through your Skirt.

Press bias binding away from the zipper.

Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance, encasing the seam. Press and pin.

Stitch in the ditch. 

Trim the seam allowance, press away from the zipper. 

Repeat step 11.11 for the other raw edge of the zipper and across the bottom edge. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION –  Place two Frill pieces right sides together along the short sides. Serge together using ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach both ends of the other Frill piece to form a loop. Follow steps 12.3 to 12.7. Then serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 13. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Stitch the short straight edges of two Frill pieces together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press

Repeat step 12.1 to attach the third Frill piece to each side, creating a circle.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches all around the top edge of the Frill, as you did in step 10.1. 

Find and mark the quarter points of the Frill.

Mark the quarter points of the Skirt.

Place the Frill inside the Skirt, wrong sides together, matching quarter points.

Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the stitches. 

Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers, until the Frill is gathered evenly between the quarter points.

Stitch the Frill and Skirt together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

FIT CHECK – Try the garment on and check you are happy with the length. Adjust as required and continue below.

If you have sewn the Sleeveless or Lantern Sleeve options, follow steps 13.1 to 13.2, folding the hem of the Dress.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Sleeve hem to neaten and finish it (do not take any seam allowance off though). Turn the edges under by a ½ inch then topstitch close to the serged edge. Press. Repeat for the other Sleeve. Repeat for the dress hem.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

Fold the Sleeve hem towards the wrong side ¼ inch and press.

Fold the hem again ¼ inch to enclose all raw edges. Press and pin.

TIP – When hemming fine fabrics, use a rolled hem foot or press up ¼ inch hem then fold it in half before stitching.

From the right side, topstitch the hem in place just under ¼ inch and press.

Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.2 to hem the dress.

TIP – You want the stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the skirt as much as possible, so it looks nice and neat from the outside. To do this, use the presser foot or a marking on the footplate on your sewing machine to line up the fabric so you get a nice even stitch all the way around.

OPTIONAL – If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your dress a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot, you can sew the hem by machine.

Using the Button Loop as a guide, place the button onto the wearer’s right side of the Bodice at the back.

Hand stitch the button with matching thread.

TIP – For hand stitching the button without a visible knot start by knotting the thread at the back of the button and going down through the top of the Facing. Bring the needle back up between the button and the Bodice and create a knot under the button by passing the needle through under the button to make a loop, catch with the needle and pull tight. Repeat and trim the tail under the button.