No products in the cart.
Progress Menu
x
This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
13
Laura
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This sewing pattern is for a chic cocoon dress that is quick and easy to sew. It features dropped shoulders, scoop neck, high-low hem, and optional inseam pockets. There are also three length options so that you can find something to suit your style.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes Women’s sizes 1-10 & Women’s Curvy sizes 6C-15C.
Not a member yet? Click here to sign up
- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your Size – Choose your size using the bust measurements. Keep in mind the finished measurements for the intended ease of this pattern. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line. Start from your bust, grading out or in, to your waist and hips.
- Height Adjustments – The pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you can add/remove length at different locations throughout the dress.
- Follow this tutorial to make the adjustments to the bodice.
- The dress will also need adjusting at the hip.
- Check the finished length measurements above and adjust the front/back hem as needed
- Bust Adjustments –
- The Women’s Regular pattern is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). If your bust size is below a sewing C cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well. If your bust size is above a D cup, as this is a loose fitting dress it is unlikely you will need to do a Full Bust Adjustment.
- The Women’s Curvy pattern is designed for a sewing E cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear D cup). If your bust size is below a sewing E cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well. If your bust size is above a F cup, as this is a loose fitting dress it is unlikely you will need to do a Full Bust Adjustment.
- Bicep adjustment – Check your measurement against the finished garment measurement above. If your measurement is larger, follow our free tutorial to adjust your sleeve.
- Side Seam Adjustments – If you measure slightly below the maximum measurement in the size chart, you may find you need to take in the side seams. For example, the 5 size waist measurement range is 31-32 inches. If you measure 31.5 or 31 inches, you may need to bring in the waist side seams.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, we recommend sewing a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in a similar inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for the Laura:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut out the Front and Back pieces and label each one with tailors chalk / fabric pen:
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these pieces of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- A light to mid weight woven such as a silk, rayon, silk crepe, crepe de chine or silk satin will drape and swish about as you move more.
- A woven with structure such as a linen, poly cotton or quilting cotton won’t drape or follow the contours of the body much, so it will give a boxier look. A garment with this type of fabric won’t drape much and will stick out more.
- A woven heavy weight fabric such as denim.
- Knit fabric is also a good choice.
- OPTIONAL – Iron on Interfacing – You will need for the front and back facings if you are doing the facing option (not the binding option). ¼ yard will be more than sufficient for sizes 1-10, and ½ yard for sizes 6C-15C. If you are using knit/stretch fabric, make sure to use knit/stretch-specific interfacing. If you are using woven fabric, use a medium weight woven interfacing.
- OPTIONAL – If you are doing the neck binding option, you will need ½ inch wide single fold bias tape. You can use ready-made bias tape, or you can make your own using the instructions in our free DIY bias tape tutorial. If you use ready-made bias tape, you will need stretch bias tape if you are using knit fabric, and regular/normal woven bias tape if you are using woven fabrics.
- Thread to match
- Front – Cut 1 on fold
- Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Neck Facing
- Front: Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Back: Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Neck Binding – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Pockets – Cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)
NOTE – The pockets are only suitable for both dress lengths (not the top length)
Project OverviewLaura
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The high-low cocoon shaped Laura has a round neck and dropped shoulders. It’s a loosely fitting garment with a back slit. Choose from a top, tunic or dress length. The scoop neck can be finished with a facing or binding. Add optional pockets and Laura will quickly become a staple in your everyday wear.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
1
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
2
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
3
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
4
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
5
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
6
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
7
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
8
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
9
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
10
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
6C
44.0
111.8
36.0
91.4
48.0
121.9
7C
47.0
119.4
39.0
99.1
51.0
129.5
8C
50.0
127.0
43.0
109.2
54.0
137.2
9C
53.0
134.6
47.0
119.4
57.5
146.1
10C
56.0
142.2
51.0
129.5
61.0
154.9
11C
60.0
152.4
55.0
139.7
64.5
163.8
12C
64.0
162.6
59.0
149.9
68.0
172.7
13C
68.0
172.7
63.0
160.0
72.0
182.9
14C
72.0
182.9
67.0
170.2
76.0
193.0
15C
76.0
193.0
71.0
180.3
80.0
203.2
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Hem circumference
Waist
Shoulder
Sleeve circumference
1
36.0
37.7
33.2
8.6
16.2
2
38.0
39.7
35.2
9.0
16.5
3
39.7
41.7
36.2
9.3
16.7
4
41.7
43.6
38.2
9.6
17.2
5
43.6
46.6
40.2
10.0
17.5
6
46.6
49.5
43.2
10.5
18.0
7
49.5
51.7
46.2
11.1
18.3
8
52.5
55.7
50.2
11.7
18.7
9
55.5
58.6
54.2
12.3
19.1
10
58.4
62.0
58.2
13.0
19.5
Chest
Hem circumference
Waist
Shoulder
Sleeve circumference
6C
51.0
57.0
48.0
11.2
14.6
7C
54.0
60.0
51.0
11.7
15.5
8C
57.0
63.0
55.0
12.2
16.2
9C
60.0
66.5
59.0
12.7
17.0
10C
63.0
70.0
63.0
13.2
17.7
11C
67.0
73.5
67.0
14.1
18.6
12C
71.0
77.0
71.0
15.0
19.3
13C
75.0
81.0
75.0
15.7
20.2
14C
79.0
85.0
79.0
16.6
21.0
15C
83.0
89.0
83.0
17.6
21.7
Fitting NotesThe Laura is loose fitting over your waist and hips, with an extended shoulder line.
Materials and ToolsFabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this dress. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind. Recommended fabrics include:
OPTIONAL Lining – If you are doing the pocket and/or neck facing options, you can cut these from either a lining fabric, or your main fabric. If you choose to use a lining fabric, ¼ yard of lining will suffice for all sizes. Suitable fabrics include Habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Tunic
Above Knee
1
1.25
2.00
2.00
2
1.50
2.00
2.00
3
1.50
2.00
2.50
4
1.50
2.00
2.50
5
1.50
2.00
2.50
6
1.75
2.00
2.50
7
1.75
2.25
2.50
8
1.75
2.25
2.50
9
2.00
2.50
2.50
10
2.00
2.50
2.50
Top
Tunic
Above Knee
6C
1.75
2.00
2.25
7C
1.75
2.25
2.25
8C
2.00
2.25
2.50
9C
2.00
2.25
2.50
10C
2.00
2.25
2.50
11C
2.00
2.25
2.50
12C
N/A
N/A
N/A
13C
N/A
N/A
N/A
14C
N/A
N/A
N/A
15C
N/A
N/A
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Tunic
Above Knee
1
1.25
2.00
2.00
2
1.50
2.00
2.00
3
1.50
2.00
2.50
4
1.50
2.00
2.50
5
1.50
2.00
2.50
6
1.75
2.00
2.50
7
1.75
2.25
2.50
8
1.75
2.25
2.50
9
2.00
2.50
2.50
10
2.00
2.50
2.50
Top
Tunic
Above Knee
6C
1.50
2.00
2.25
7C
1.75
2.00
2.25
8C
1.75
2.00
2.25
9C
1.75
2.00
2.25
10C
1.75
2.00
2.25
11C
1.75
2.25
2.25
12C
1.75
2.25
2.50
13C
2.00
2.25
2.50
14C
2.00
2.25
2.50
15C
2.00
2.50
2.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Top Mid-thigh Above knee OPTIONAL pockets OPTIONAL neck facing OPTIONAL woven binding OPTIONAL knit binding 1 – 3 2-10, 12-15 2-20 2-20 26 24-25 22-23 22-23 4 – 8 2-16 2-21 2-21 26 24-25 22-23 22-23 9 – 10 2-16, 19-20 2-21 2-21 26 24-25 22-23 22-23 Top Mid-thigh Above-knee OPTIONAL Pockets OPTIONAL Neck Facing 6C 2-3, 5-9, 11-12, 14-18, 22-24 2-3, 5-9, 11-12, 14-18, 20-24 2-3, 5-9, 11-12, 14-18, 20-24 36 30-31 7C 2-9, 11-12, 14-18, 22-24 2-9, 11-12, 14-18, 20-24 2-9, 11-12, 14-18, 20-24 36 30-31 8C 2-9, 11-18, 22-24 2-9, 11-18, 20-24 2-9, 11-18, 20-24 36 30-31 9C 2-19, 22-24 2-25 2-25 36 30-31 10C 2-19, 22-24 2-25 2-25, 29 36 30-31 11C-12C 2-19, 22-24 2-25 2-25, 29-30 36 30-31 13C 2-19, 23-25 2-25 2-25, 29-30 36 30-31 14C 2-19, 23-25 2-25 2-25, 29-31 36 30-31 15C 2-19, 22-25 2-25 2-25, 28-31 36 30-31 OPTIONAL Woven Neck Binding OPTIONAL Knit Neck Binding 6C 15, 22 15, 22 7C 15, 22 15, 22 8C-9C 15, 22 15, 22 10C 15, 22 15, 22 11C-13C 15, 22 15, 22 14C 15, 22 15, 22 15C 15, 22 15, 22 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Top Mid-thigh Above knee OPTIONAL pockets OPTIONAL neck facing OPTIONAL woven binding OPTIONAL knit binding 1 – 3 2-10, 12-15 2-10, 12-15, 18-21 2-21 24 22-23 17-18 17-18 4 2-15 2-15, 18-21 2-21 24 22-23 17-18 17-18 5 – 10 2-16 2-16, 18-21 2-21 24 22-23 17-18 17-18 Top Mid-thigh Above-knee OPTIONAL Pockets OPTIONAL Neck Facing 6C 2-7, 9-10, 12-14, 16-17, 19-20 2-7, 9-10, 12-14, 16-17, 19-20, 23-24, 26-27 2-7, 9-10, 12-14, 16-17, 19-20, 23-24, 26-27 32 30-31 7C 2-7, 9-14, 16-17, 19-21 2-7, 9-14, 16-17, 19-21, 23-24, 26-28 2-7, 9-14, 16-17, 19-21, 23-24, 26-28 32 30-31 8C-9C 2-7, 9-14, 16-21 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 24-28 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-28 32 30-31 10C 2-7, 9-14, 16-21 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-28 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-28 32 30-31 11C-13C 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 26-27 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-28 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-28 32 30-31 14C 2-14, 16-21, 26-28 2-14, 16-21, 23-28 2-14, 16-21, 23-28 32 30-31 15C 2-22, 26-28 2-29 2-29 32 30-31 OPTIONAL Woven Neck Binding OPTIONAL Knit Neck Binding 6C 15, 22 15, 22 7C 15, 22 15, 22 8C-9C 15, 22 15, 22 10C 15, 22 15, 22 11C-13C 15, 22 15, 22 14C 15, 22 15, 22 15C 15, 22 15, 22 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Neck Binding (Cut 1)
Width
Knit binding length
Woven bias binding length
1
2.0
22.6
25.0
2
2.0
23.2
26.0
3
2.0
24.0
26.4
4
2.0
24.4
27.0
5
2.0
25.0
27.4
6
2.0
25.4
28.0
7
2.0
26.0
28.6
8
2.0
26.6
29.4
9
2.0
27.2
30.0
10
2.0
28.0
30.6
OPTIONAL Neck Binding (Cut 1)
Width
Knit binding length
Woven bias binding length
6C
2.0
23.1
25.4
7C
2.0
23.9
26.9
8C
2.0
24.3
27.5
9C
2.0
24.8
28.0
10C
2.0
25.2
28.6
11C
2.0
25.8
29.2
12C
2.0
26.3
29.7
13C
2.0
27.0
30.3
14C
2.0
27.5
30.9
15C
2.0
27.9
31.4
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric.
- OPTIONAL INTERFACING – If adding the Neck Facing, add interfacing to the Front and Back Facing pieces.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the necklines on the Front and Back and both Neck Facing pieces.
- CENTER BACK SEAM – Dress: Press angled section along the hem under ¼ inch and again ¼ inch, then topstitch. Using a French Seam sew the Back pieces together for either length.
- SHOULDER SEAMS – Use a French Seam to sew shoulder seams together.
- ARMHOLE – Turn the edge of the armhole under ¼ inch toward the wrong side, press. Trim the pointy tip, then turn under ¼ inch again, press then topstitch
- OPTIONAL NECK BINDING – Fold the Neck Binding in half lengthwise, sew with a ½ inch seam allowance. Quarter the Neck Binding and the neckline, pin the Neck Binding right sides together at the quarter points, sew, and press the seam allowance toward Neck Binding. Fold Neck Binding edge ¼ inch toward wrong side, fold again to line up with the seam allowance on the neckline, then topstitch.
- OPTIONAL NECK FACING – Sew Front and Back Facing at shoulder seams using French seams. Press the seam allowance towards the Front Facing. If NOT finishing the facing edge, trim the edge of the facing. If FINISHING the outer edge of the facing, turn the outer edge ¼ inch under twice and topstitch, basting in place can help make this easier. Topstitch along the edge. Lay the dress and facing right sides together, pin and sew together. Trim seam allowance, turn back to the wrong side rolling it so the seam is slightly on the inside of the dress, topstitch. Attach the facing shoulder seams to the garment shoulder seams.
- SIDE SEAM (NO POCKET OPTION) – Use a French seam to sew the side seams together.
- SIDE SEAM (POCKET OPTION) – Use a French seam to attach pockets to the Front and Back pieces. Then use French seams to sew the Front and Back together at the side seams.
- HEM – Turn the hem under ¼ inch to the wrong side, press, turn under another ¼ inch and press again then topstitch close to the folded edge.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ¼ inch-Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing fabric pen or chalk. If adding side seam pockets, make sure to mark the notch on the side seam which marks the top of the pocket.
0.2OPTIONAL Interfacing
If adding the neck facings, add iron-on interfacing to both the Front and Back neck facings, as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
0.3Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. Otherwise, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the collar won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.
Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting as you sew the rest of the garment. Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
If you are using a lightweight woven or a fabric that will fray easily, we recommend staystitching the Front and Back along the neckline, and both Front and Back Facings, in the direction of the arrows.
NOTE – If you have added OPTIONAL interfacing to your neck facing pieces, you may not need to staystitch these pieces.
1 . Center Back Seam1.0If sewing the Top length, skip to step 1.4. If you are doing either Dress length, follow below.
ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Dress: Serge the angled section at the bottom of the dress to finish (do not remove any length) on both Back pieces. Turn these under ½ inch and topstitch in place. Top and Dress: place the Back pieces right sides together and serge the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance, making sure to catch the top of the back split in your seam. Press to the side. Then skip to step 2.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Dress: Turn the angle section at the bottom of the dress under ½ inch and topstitch in place using a twin needle or zig zag stitch. Top and Dress: place the Back pieces right sides together and stitch the center back seam using a stretch stitch with a ½ inch seam allowance, making sure to catch the top of the back split in the seam. Press to the side. Then skip to step 2.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use a French seam for the center back seam. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
1.1There is an angled section along the bottom of the center back seam. This forms the back split.
Press this angled section under ¼ inch. The pointed tip at the top of the back split should fold in half when pressed.
NOTE – Ensure you have correctly identified the angled slit at the bottom of the dress, it can easily be confused with the armhole.
1.2Turn the back split under another ¼ inch and press.
The pointed tip at the top of the angled back split should now be fully in line with the center back raw edge.
1.3Topstitch in place.
TIP – If sewing a decorative top stitching as per the photos, switch the thread in the sewing machine to a thicker thread or top stitching thread for this step. Then switch back to a regular thread after.
TIP – When using a thicker topstitching thread, it may be more difficult to backstitch, and/or there may be a lump of thread if you backstitch at the start or end of the seam. Instead, start 2-3 stitches ahead of where you would normally, then start by stitching backwards 2-3 stitches and continue on forwards normally. This means you are going backwards then forwards only which creates less bulk than stitching forward, back, forwards.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 with the other back piece.
1.4With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Back pieces together along the center back seam.
Make sure to catch the top of the back split in the seam.
1.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.6Trim the seam allowance in half.
TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
1.7Turn the Back so right sides are facing and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
1.8Stitch again ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).
1.9Open out with right sides up and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the center of the fold.
1.10Press the seam allowance to one side.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance to one side by stitching from the right side of the garment using a top stitching thread and just less than a ¼ inch seam allowance so the stitching just catches the seam allowance. This is decorative only.
2 . Shoulder Seams2.0ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, with right sides together, pin the back piece to the front piece at the shoulder. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press towards the back. Then skip to step 3.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – With right sides together, pin the back piece to the front piece at the shoulder. Stitch with a stretch stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press towards the back. Then skip to step 3.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use a French seam for the shoulder seam. Follow along below.
2.1Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.9 to join the Front and Back together using a French seam at the shoulders.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance to one side by stitching from the right side of the garment using a top stitching thread and just less than a ¼ inch seam allowance so the stitching just catches the seam allowance. This is decorative only.
3 . Armhole3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge the armhole using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn under ½ inch and press. Top stitch in place. Repeat for the other armhole. Then skip to step 4.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Turn the armhole under ½ inch and press. Top stitch in place using a twin needle or stretch stitch. Repeat for the other armhole. Then skip to step 4.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
3.1Turn the armhole under ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.
TIP – There is a little pointed tip on the edge of each armhole. If it is folded in half, it will be exactly ¼ inch to help guide how much to turn under.
3.2The pointy tip will stick out under the fold. From the right side of the garment, trim off the folded part of the pointy tip so the seam allowances are smooth.
3.3Turn the armhole seam allowance under another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.
The pointed tip should now be fully folded back and in line with the armhole raw edge.
3.4Top stitch in place, close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 for the other armhole.
TIP – If sewing a decorative top stitching as per the photos, switch the thread in the sewing machine to a thicker thread or top stitching thread for this step. Then switch back to a regular thread after.
4 . OPTIONAL Neck Binding4.0The following steps are the same whether serging or stitching, and for both woven and knit fabric. If doing the neck binding option, follow below. For a neck facing option, skip to step 5.
4.1Fold the Neck Binding in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch to create a loop.
If using a regular sewing machine, press the seam allowance open and if using a serger press the seam to one side.
NOTE – If using woven fabric, a stretch stitch is not needed.
4.2Fold the neckline in half and in half again to find the quarter points. Use pins to mark the quarters on the raw edges of the Neck Binding and neckline.
4.3Align the seam of the Neck Binding with the center back and match the quarter points. Pin to secure.
Pin one raw edge of the Neck Binding right sides together on the raw edge of the neckline.
4.4Stitch or serge while stretching the Neck Binding gently to match the neckline using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Pay attention to only stretch the binding and not the neckline.
Press the seam allowance and the binding up and away from the shirt.
4.5Fold the Neck Binding remaining raw edge ¼ inch toward the wrong side of the neckline.
4.6Wrap the folded Neck Binding to the wrong side over the seam allowance so that the folded edge is in alignment with the seam where the Neck Binding joins the neckline.
Secure with pins from the right side of the fabric.
NOTE – If using a woven binding, fold over once again, so all raw edges are encased, and the binding is completely inside the dress.
4.7Topstitch the Neck Binding in place from the right side of the garment. If using a knit fabric, use a narrow twin needle or a zigzag stitch. If you are using a woven fabric, use a straight stitch or any decorative top stitch you like.
Press.
TIP – If topstitching stretches the binding at all, give it a good steam with an iron to shrink it back to the correct size.
TIP – If using a decorative top stitching as per the photos, switch the thread in the sewing machine to a thicker thread or top stitching thread for this step. Then switch back to a regular thread after.
Skip to step 6.
5 . OPTIONAL Neck Facing5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, place the front and back facings right sides together, pin. Serge the shoulder seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press to the front. Serge the outer raw circular edge of the facing to neaten it so it doesn’t fray. Leave the smaller inner edge (the neckline) for now. Then skip to step 5.7.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Place Front Facing and Back Facing right sides together. Stitch along the shoulder seams using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5.7 to attach the facing.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use a French Seam for the Front and Back Facing. Follow along below.
5.1Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.10 to join the Front Facing and Back Facing together along the shoulder seams using a French seam.
The shoulder seams will be slightly different widths. This is because the seam is on an angle. Line up the outside (shoulder) edge and stitch along from there towards the neck. When the shoulder seam is finished, there will be a small pointy bit of seam allowance to trim, but the seam will then line up.
Press the seam allowance towards the front facing. This means the facing and garment shoulder seams will be pointing in different directions in the finished garment to reduce bulk.
5.2If leaving the facing edge raw, trim the outside edge of your facing by ½ inch so that the outer edges are very neat, and the interfacing goes right to the edge of the facing. This will stop the fabric from fraying or stretching. Then skip to step 5.6.
If finishing the facing edge, continue on to step 5.3.
NOTE – A raw bottom edge of the facing will mean for lighter-weight fabrics that the neck facing will be less visible from the exterior of the garment. It does however mean the bottom edge will be raw. For most fabrics, the interfacing will stop the edge from fraying while wearing and washing. However, if the fabric used does fray, even with the interfacing, we would recommend following the option in step 5.3.
5.3If finishing the outer edge of the facing, turn the outer circular edge of the facing under ¼ inch twice and then top stitch.
The curved edge can be tricky to turn under neatly in a small amount. To help with this, baste a line of stitches ¼ inch from the edge all the way around the facing.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – If you prefer, you can turn the edges under less (⅛ inch for example) twice and top stitch. This will make it more like a rolled hem and much smaller.
5.4Using the basting stitches as a guide, turn the facing edge under ¼ inch towards the wrong side of the fabric and press.
TIP – If this is difficult, pin the fabric using steel headed dressmaking pins. These can be pressed over with the iron. Do not ‘iron’ by moving the iron back and forth as you may scratch your iron. But instead cover the pins with a pressing cloth (or thin tea towel) and just press the iron downwards to get the fold where you want it. Then remove the pins.
NOTE – This little fold here is the fiddliest part of the pattern. If preferred, an overlocking or zigzag stitch can be used to finish the raw edges instead, then skip to step 5.7. Overlocking or zigzagging the edges won’t hide the raw edges, however on very flimsy fabrics it may be easier.
5.5Turn the fabric under another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.
5.6Top stitch close to the folded edge (⅛ to ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric).
5.7Fold the facing and the neckline in half vertically to mark the center front and center back.
5.8Open the garment so it is flat. Lay the facing right sides together with the garment.
Pin together only at the shoulder seams, center front and center back to start with.
Make sure the shoulder seams of the facing and garment are pointing in different directions to reduce bulk. Pin these in place so they do not move when you stitch in the next step.
5.9Continue pinning the rest of the facing to the garment around the neck opening.
Stitch ½ inch from the edge.
NOTE – In the next two steps trim and topstitch the facing to the top. This will create a crisp edge and hide the raw edges. If preferred, understitch the raw edges to the facing instead.
TIP – If the neck hole has stretched slightly and no longer fits the facing as well, try steaming it before pinning the facing to it. If this helps but doesn’t quite resolve it, try pinning the facing to the neckline by dividing each quarter in half evenly and pin. Then divide in half again and pin again, until it is evenly pinned all the way around the facing. Use a lot of pins to get it even and smooth.
5.10Trim the seam allowance to less than half the width – ⅛ to ¼ inch.
5.11Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment and press.
Roll the seam so that the seam is not exactly in the center of the fold, but more towards the inside of the garment. This way the facing will not be seen in the finished garment.
Top stitch the facing ¼ inch from the edge. This will hold the facing in place and also hide the raw edges inside the top stitching.
TIP – If sewing a decorative top stitching as per the photos, switch the thread in the sewing machine to a thicker thread or top stitching thread for this step. Then switch back to a regular thread after.
5.12Now attach the facing shoulder seams to the garment shoulder seams and back seam. This is an extra step to help keep the facing in place and make sure it doesn’t pop out while being worn.
The facing can either be hand sewn to the garment along the shoulder and back seams, or pin and then machine stitch as shown directly over the shoulder and back seams so that the stitches are hidden in the seam (also called “stitch in the ditch”).
NOTE – It is easiest to show this step by photographing the inside of the garment as shown. However, to make sure the stitching really is “in the ditch”, make sure to stitch with the right side of the garment facing upwards.
6 . Side Seam (No Pocket OPTION)6.0If adding Pockets, skip to step 7. If not adding Pockets, follow the steps below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, place the front and back right sides together. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Then skip to step 8.
KNIT Fabric on a REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Place the Front and Back right sides together. Stitch with a stretch stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the Back. Then skip to step 8.
WOVEN Fabric on a REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – The side seam is also sewn using a French seam. Follow along below.
6.1Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.10. With the wrong sides together, pin the Front and Back. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.10 to stitch the other side seam.
7 . Side Seam (Pocket OPTION)7.0If sewing the top length, skip to step 8.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge a Pocket right sides together to each side seam, matching the top of the Pocket to the pocket notch. Do step 7.4 to clip the seam allowance flat. Press the seam allowance towards the Pocket. Place the Front and Back together and serge the whole side seam including around the Pocket using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 8. TIP – Use a sewing machine to stitch the tight angle at the bottom of the Pocket.
KNIT Fabric on a REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Stitch a Pocket right sides together to each side seam at the pocket notch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the Pocket. Stitch the whole side seam including Pocket using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 8.
WOVEN Fabric on a REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – The side seam is also sewn using a French seam. Follow along below.
7.1The Pockets are sewn using a French seam.
Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.10. With the wrong sides together, pin the Pocket to the Back, lining the top of the Pocket to the pocket notch. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
7.2Trim the seam allowance approximately in half along the pocket section of the raw edge only. Do not trim all the way down the garment side seam, just along the Pocket.
7.3Open the Pocket out and press the seam allowance towards the Pocket.
7.4Flip the Pocket over so the right sides are together and press well along the seam.
Stitch again along the edge of the Pocket using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.5There will now be a little fold on the top and bottom of the Pocket.
Snip the piece parallel to the top of the Pocket, and even with the edge, so the fabric lies flat. Don’t cut past the Pocket.
Flip the Pocket out and press the seam well.
7.6Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 for the other 3 Pocket pieces so there is a Pocket attached to each side of the front and back. Make sure as each Pocket is attached that the Pockets on the Front and Back line up with each other.
7.7Once the Pockets are attached to the Front and Back pieces, we will put it all together.
Place the Front and Back pieces with wrong sides together, matching up the Pockets and the top and bottom of the dress pieces. Pin.
NOTE – If sewing the dress length, pin from the top of the garment down to the hem. The hem does not match up but instead the seam allowance forms a V that overlaps by ½ inch. The hem should meet in the middle of this V and will meet smoothly at the end of this step.
7.8Starting at the top of the side seam, sew down to the top of the Pocket. Continue sewing until ¼ inch onto the top of the Pocket.
7.9Put the needle down into the fabric, lift the presser foot and pivot so the stitching will continue down the Pocket, put the presser foot back down, continue around the Pocket, still sewing with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.10Once a ¼ inch onto the bottom piece again, pivot again until once again heading down the side. Sew all the way to the bottom of the side seam.
Repeat steps 7.7 to 7.10 on the other side seam.
7.11Trim the seam allowances in half to neaten.
7.12Flip the garment so that right sides are now together. Press well, ensuring the seam allowances are at the exact center of the folds. Again, match up the tops and bottoms of the garment and of the Pockets.
TIP – After turning through, if the seam allowance doesn’t sit flat at the corner where Pocket meets the garment, turn it back the right way out, snip into the seam allowance towards the seam and try again.
7.13For each side seam, sew down the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance from the top, pivoting around the Pocket and back down the side.
Press the Pockets and seam towards the Front.
7.14If sewing the top length, skip to step 8.
If sewing the dress length, there will be a small pointy section of seam allowance from the side seam at the hem. Snip this so the hem is smooth.
8 . Hem8.0FIT CHECK – Try the garment on and check the length. If you are happy with the length, continue with the relevant option below. Otherwise, adjust and then continue.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge the hem to finish (do not remove any length). Then press the hem ½ inch to the wrong side and top stitch in place.
KNIT Fabric on a REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Press the hem ½ inch to the wrong side and top stitch in place using a stretch stitch or twin needle.
WOVEN Fabric on a REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.
8.1Turn the hem under ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.
NOTE – This step is the same whether for either the top or dress. For the top, the hem will be continuous all the way around the hemline. For the dress, it will start at the back split and go all the way around the dress to the other side of the back split.
8.2Turn the hem under another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.
8.3Top stitch the hem in place close to the folded edge.
TIP – For knit fabrics, use a twin needle to ensure the hem stretches. For woven fabrics, use a regular straight stitch.
TIP – If sewing a decorative top stitching as per the photos, switch the thread in the sewing machine to a thicker thread or top stitching thread for this step. Then switch back to a regular thread after.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Laura is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rplaura.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2022
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewLaura
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The high-low cocoon shaped Laura has a round neck and dropped shoulders. It’s a loosely fitting garment with a back slit. Choose from a top, tunic or dress length. The scoop neck can be finished with a facing or binding. Add optional pockets and Laura will quickly become a staple in your everyday wear.
SizingSize Range
Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
1
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
2
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
3
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
4
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
5
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
6
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
7
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
8
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
9
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
10
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
6C
44.0
111.8
36.0
91.4
48.0
121.9
7C
47.0
119.4
39.0
99.1
51.0
129.5
8C
50.0
127.0
43.0
109.2
54.0
137.2
9C
53.0
134.6
47.0
119.4
57.5
146.1
10C
56.0
142.2
51.0
129.5
61.0
154.9
11C
60.0
152.4
55.0
139.7
64.5
163.8
12C
64.0
162.6
59.0
149.9
68.0
172.7
13C
68.0
172.7
63.0
160.0
72.0
182.9
14C
72.0
182.9
67.0
170.2
76.0
193.0
15C
76.0
193.0
71.0
180.3
80.0
203.2
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Hem circumference
Waist
Shoulder
Sleeve circumference
1
36.0
37.7
33.2
8.6
16.2
2
38.0
39.7
35.2
9.0
16.5
3
39.7
41.7
36.2
9.3
16.7
4
41.7
43.6
38.2
9.6
17.2
5
43.6
46.6
40.2
10.0
17.5
6
46.6
49.5
43.2
10.5
18.0
7
49.5
51.7
46.2
11.1
18.3
8
52.5
55.7
50.2
11.7
18.7
9
55.5
58.6
54.2
12.3
19.1
10
58.4
62.0
58.2
13.0
19.5
Chest
Hem circumference
Waist
Shoulder
Sleeve circumference
6C
51.0
57.0
48.0
11.2
14.6
7C
54.0
60.0
51.0
11.7
15.5
8C
57.0
63.0
55.0
12.2
16.2
9C
60.0
66.5
59.0
12.7
17.0
10C
63.0
70.0
63.0
13.2
17.7
11C
67.0
73.5
67.0
14.1
18.6
12C
71.0
77.0
71.0
15.0
19.3
13C
75.0
81.0
75.0
15.7
20.2
14C
79.0
85.0
79.0
16.6
21.0
15C
83.0
89.0
83.0
17.6
21.7
Materials and ToolsFabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this dress. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind. Recommended fabrics include:
- A light to mid weight woven such as a silk, rayon, silk crepe, crepe de chine or silk satin will drape and swish about as you move more.
- A woven with structure such as a linen, poly cotton or quilting cotton won’t drape or follow the contours of the body much, so it will give a boxier look. A garment with this type of fabric won’t drape much and will stick out more.
- A woven heavy weight fabric such as denim.
- Knit fabric is also a good choice.
OPTIONAL Lining – If you are doing the pocket and/or neck facing options, you can cut these from either a lining fabric, or your main fabric. If you choose to use a lining fabric, ¼ yard of lining will suffice for all sizes. Suitable fabrics include Habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Tunic
Above Knee
1
1.25
2.00
2.00
2
1.50
2.00
2.00
3
1.50
2.00
2.50
4
1.50
2.00
2.50
5
1.50
2.00
2.50
6
1.75
2.00
2.50
7
1.75
2.25
2.50
8
1.75
2.25
2.50
9
2.00
2.50
2.50
10
2.00
2.50
2.50
Top
Tunic
Above Knee
6C
1.75
2.00
2.25
7C
1.75
2.25
2.25
8C
2.00
2.25
2.50
9C
2.00
2.25
2.50
10C
2.00
2.25
2.50
11C
2.00
2.25
2.50
12C
N/A
N/A
N/A
13C
N/A
N/A
N/A
14C
N/A
N/A
N/A
15C
N/A
N/A
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Tunic
Above Knee
1
1.25
2.00
2.00
2
1.50
2.00
2.00
3
1.50
2.00
2.50
4
1.50
2.00
2.50
5
1.50
2.00
2.50
6
1.75
2.00
2.50
7
1.75
2.25
2.50
8
1.75
2.25
2.50
9
2.00
2.50
2.50
10
2.00
2.50
2.50
Top
Tunic
Above Knee
6C
1.50
2.00
2.25
7C
1.75
2.00
2.25
8C
1.75
2.00
2.25
9C
1.75
2.00
2.25
10C
1.75
2.00
2.25
11C
1.75
2.25
2.25
12C
1.75
2.25
2.50
13C
2.00
2.25
2.50
14C
2.00
2.25
2.50
15C
2.00
2.50
2.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL – Iron on Interfacing – You will need for the front and back facings if you are doing the facing option (not the binding option). ¼ yard will be more than sufficient for sizes 1-10, and ½ yard for sizes 6C-15C. If you are using knit/stretch fabric, make sure to use knit/stretch-specific interfacing. If you are using woven fabric, use a medium weight woven interfacing.
- OPTIONAL – If you are doing the neck binding option, you will need ½ inch wide single fold bias tape. You can use ready-made bias tape, or you can make your own using the instructions in our free DIY bias tape tutorial. If you use ready-made bias tape, you will need stretch bias tape if you are using knit fabric, and regular/normal woven bias tape if you are using woven fabrics.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.