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Home / Womens / Activewear, Bottoms, Garments, Leggings
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
16
Lily Leggings
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
The Lily leggings sewing pattern are stylish and flattering with a mid to high-rise waist. They are ankle length and have an optional bum-sculpting panel, back waistband pocket, side strips, and chevrons. They can be worn day-to-day or as athletic wear.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size from the hip measurements from the size chart. If your waist falls into a different size than your hip size, you will need to grade the waistband. Print both sizes, gently curving from your hip size at the bottom of the pattern piece to your size for waist at the top of the waistband. This will ensure the leggings fit properly around both the hips and the waist.
- Adjusting height – These leggings are designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter or your inseam measurement is more/less than the finished inseam measurement above, you may need to add/remove from the legs (front and back) at the mid-thigh, and on the leg, just above where you will be attaching cuff. Make the same adjustments if you are sewing the optional side stripe pieces. No need to adjust the cuff or waistband.
- You may also find you need personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth, sway back, thighs, and/or bum.
- Muslin – I recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
- Use an inexpensive lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy.
- If your waistband fits correctly at your waist but you feel it needs extra support, you can add elastic into the waistband.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- OPTIONAL ⅜ inch wide elastic for the back pocket and waistband
- Thread to match
- Plain leggings with plain waistband and cuffs
- Side stripe leggings with pocket waistband and cuffs
- Side stripe leggings with chevrons, pocket waistband and cuffs
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewLily Leggings
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Create your own stylish mid to high rise workout leggings – suitable for day to day wear, yoga, or for any sport. The plain leg version has a seam free outer leg. Or choose side stripes and chevrons for a sporty look. Best of all, there is an optional back panel to create the illusion of a sculpted bum. Add a deep plain waistband, or a deep waistband with back pocket – it is the perfect place to keep your phone, keys, or even a snack.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Inseam
Front rise
Back rise
Ankle
Calf
XXS
23.00
26.00
26.50
6.50
9.60
6.60
8.00
XS
24.60
27.20
26.50
6.75
10.10
7.00
8.50
S
25.60
28.70
26.50
7.00
10.20
7.30
9.10
M
27.40
30.20
26.50
7.30
10.50
8.00
9.30
L
29.20
31.70
26.50
7.60
11.00
8.10
9.70
XL
32.00
34.00
26.50
8.00
11.30
8.50
10.00
XXL
35.00
36.00
26.75
8.40
12.10
8.70
10.60
3XL
38.40
38.20
26.75
9.00
12.50
9.00
11.10
4XL
42.10
40.40
27.00
9.00
13.10
9.10
11.60
5XL
45.70
42.50
27.00
10.00
14.00
9.30
12.10
Fitting NotesThese are form fitting leggings with negative ease at the waist. This means the finished garment measurements will be tighter than the size chart. They are designed for lycra knit (stretch) fabric so they can stretch around your body and fit comfortably without falling down.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – These leggings have been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 5-12% lycra/elastane to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are cotton lycra, nylon lycra, jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of Lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit. To achieve compression fit, we recommend 18-20% Lycra/elastane.
Panel fabric – You could use power mesh for the paneling as this also has a good 4-way stretch. Bear in mind power mesh is see-through.
We’ve listed the fabric requirements for all the options and pieces so that you can use contrasting fabrics. If you are sewing pieces from the same fabric, you won’t need as much as listed below.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Cuffs
Plain waistband
Waistband with pocket
Plain leggings
XXS
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
XS
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
S
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
M
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
L
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
XXL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
3XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.50
4XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.50
5XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.75
Side stripe
Side stripe with front chevron panels
Side stripe, chevron & bum shaping panels
Front & back legs
Side stripe
Side stripe
Top front and back leg panel
Chevrons
Bottom leg panel
Top leg panels
Side stripe
Chevrons
Bum shaping yoke
Bottom leg panels
XXS
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
XS
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
S
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
M
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
L
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
XL
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
XXL
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
3XL
1.50
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
4XL
1.50
1.25
1.25
1.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
5XL
1.50
1.25
1.25
1.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Plain leggings with plain waistband and cuffs Side stripe leggings with pocket waistband and cuffs Side stripe leggings with chevrons, pocket waistband and cuffs XXS 2-7, 12-14, 23-25, 34-36, 45-47 5-7, 15-18, 27-29, 34, 38-39, 45-49 5-7, 9-10, 19-22, 31-34, 42-43, 45-47, 50 XS 2-7, 12-14, 23-25, 34-36, 45-47 5-7, 15-18, 26-29, 34, 38-39, 45-49 5-7, 9-10, 19-22, 31-34, 42-43, 45-47, 50 S – M 2-7, 12-14, 23-25, 34-36, 45-47 5-7, 15-18, 26-29, 34, 38-39, 45-49 5-7, 9-10, 19-22, 30-34, 42-43, 45-47, 50 L – XL 2-7, 12-15, 23-25, 34-36, 45-47 5-7, 15-18, 26-29, 34, 38-40, 45-49 5-7, 9-10, 19-22, 30-34, 42-43, 45-47, 50 XXL 2-7, 12-15, 23-25, 34-36, 45-47 5-7, 15-18, 26-29, 34, 38-40, 45-49 5-7, 9-11, 19-22, 30-34, 42-47, 50 3XL 2-7, 12-15, 23-25, 34-36, 45-47 5-7, 15-18, 26-29, 34, 37-40, 45-49 5-7, 9-11, 19-22, 30-34, 42-47, 50 4XL 2-8, 12-15, 23-25, 34-36, 45-47 5-8, 15-18, 26-29, 34, 37-40, 45-49 5-11, 19-22, 30-34, 41-47, 50 5XL 2-8, 12-15, 23-25, 34-36, 45-47 5-8, 15-19, 26-29, 34, 37-40, 45-49 5-11, 19-22, 30-34, 41-47, 50 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Plain leggings with plain waistband and cuffs Side stripe leggings with pocket waistband and cuffs Side stripe leggings with chevrons, pocket waistband and cuffs XXS – XS 2-4, 6-7, 13-16, 24-26, 35-36, 42-44 5-7, 17-19, 24, 28-30, 34, 38-40, 42-44 5-7, 9-11, 20-22, 24, 27, 31-37, 41-44 S – L 2-7, 13-16, 24-26, 35-36, 42-44 5-7, 16-19, 24, 28-30, 34, 38-40, 42-44 5-7, 9-11, 20-22, 24, 27, 31-37, 41-44 XL – XXL 2-8, 13-16, 24-26, 35-36, 42-44 5-8, 16-19, 24, 27-30, 34, 38-40, 42-44 5-11, 20-22, 24, 26-27, 31-37, 41-44 3XL – 4XL 2-8, 13-16, 24-26, 35-36, 42-44 5-8, 16-19, 24, 27-31, 34, 38-40, 42-44 5-11, 20-24, 26-27, 31-37, 41-44 5XL 2-8, 13-16, 24-26, 34-36, 42-44 5-8, 16-19, 24, 27-31, 34, 38-40, 42-44 5-12, 19-24, 26-27, 31-37, 41-44 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Cuff
Waistband elastic (⅜ inches wide)
Pocket elastic (⅜ inches wide)
Width
Length
Length
Length
XXS
8.3
3.1
22.6
6.0
XS
8.7
3.1
24.6
6.5
S
9.1
3.1
25.6
7.0
M
9.5
3.1
27.5
7.2
L
9.9
3.1
29.6
7.7
XL
10.3
3.1
31.6
8.2
XXL
10.6
3.1
34.6
9.2
3XL
11.0
3.1
37.6
10.2
4XL
11.5
3.1
41.5
11.1
5XL
12.0
3.1
45.7
12.1
Before cutting out, you need to decide which option/s you are going to use. The available options are:
Options
Which pattern pieces you’ll need
Steps to follow
Legs (select one)
Plain Leggings
· Plain Leggings: Legs – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
4
Side Stripe Leggings
· Side Stripe: Front Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Side Stripe: Back Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Side Stripe – Cut 2
3 & 4
Side Stripe Leggings with Front Chevron Panels & Plain Back Legs
· Chevron Stripe Front Leg: Top Panel – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Chevron Leg: Bottom panel – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Chevron – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Side Stripe: Back Leg – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Side Stripe: Cut 2
1, 3 & 4
Side Stripe Leggings with Front & Back Chevron Panels & Bum Shaping Panel
· Chevron Stripe Front Leg: Top Panel – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Chevron – Cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
· Chevron Leg: Bottom panel – Cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
· Bum Shaping Back Leg: Top Panel – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Bum Shaping Yoke – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
· Side Stripe – Cut 2
1, 2, 3 & 4
Waistband (select one)
Plain Waistband
· Front Waistband – Cut 2
· Plain Waistband: Back – Cut 2
6
Back Pocket Waistband
· Front Waistband – Cut 2
· Back Waistband – Cut 1
· Pocket Waistband: Pocket – Cut 2
· Pocket Waistband: Center Back – Cut 1
· Pocket Waistband: Side Back – Cut 2
5 & 6
Cuffs (required for all options)
Cuffs
· Cuff – Cut 2
7
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting
- + Instructions
- OPTIONAL CHEVRONS – With right sides together, pin a Chevron piece to the matching Front Leg Top Panel. Stitch and press the seam allowance up towards the Front Leg Panel. Optional topstitch. Pin the other side of the Chevron, right sides together, to the bottom Leg panel. Stitch and press the seam allowance down towards the bottom Leg panel. Optional topstitch. Repeat for the other Front Leg. If you are sewing the Back Leg Chevrons, repeat, attaching the Chevrons to the Bum Shaping Back Leg Top Panel and Bottom Leg Panels for both Back Leg pieces.
- OPTIONAL BUM SHAPING PANEL – Place your Bum Shaping Yoke with the matching Back Leg Top Panel. Flip the Yoke face down, right sides together, onto the Leg Panel. Pin together, easing the curve. Stitch and press the seam allowance up towards the Yoke. Optional topstitch.
- OPTIONAL SIDE STRIPE/SEAM – Stitch the Side Stripe to one Front Leg, right sides together. Press the seam allowance towards the Leg piece. Repeat to attach the other raw edge of the Side Stripe to the Back Leg piece. Optional topstitch. Repeat for the second Leg.
- INSEAM & RISE – Pin and stitch the inseams of a Leg piece, right sides together. Repeat for your second Leg. Turn one Leg right side out. Slide this Leg into the other Leg, matching the rises right sides together. Pin together along this curve and stitch.
- OPTIONAL BACK WAISTBAND POCKET – Place your two Pocket pieces, right sides together, and stitch along one long raw edge. Press the seam allowance up towards the Outer Pocket piece. Stitch optional elastic to Inner Pocket. Optional topstitch. Baste the Pocket to the Center Back piece. Place your Side Back piece, right sides together, onto the Pocket, matching the straight edges. Pin and stitch. Press the seam allowance towards the Side Back piece. Optional topstitch. Repeat for the other Side Back piece.
- WAISTBAND – Pin a Front and Back Waistband piece, right sides together, along one short edge. Stitch together. Optional topstitch. Repeat for the opposite side seam. Repeat for the Waistband Lining. Stitch Waistband Outer and Lining together along the top edge, right sides facing. Stitch optional elastic. Mark the quarter points of the top of your Leggings and Waistband. Pin Waistband to Leggings, Outer Waistband right side together with the Leggings, and stitch.
- CUFFS – Fold the Cuff, right sides together, matching the short edges. Fold again matching the long edges. Pin and stitch along the short edge. Turn the Cuff and mark the quarter points. Mark the quarter points on the bottom raw edge of one leg. Slide the cuff over the leg, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin and stitch together. Optional topstitch. Repeat for the second Cuff.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
Sewing –
1 . OPTIONAL ChevronsSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
1.0If you are sewing the Plain Leggings, skip to step 4.
For those who have a coverstitch machine and would like to use this for topstitching, we’ve included a little video to show you how. Watch the video here.
1.1With right sides together, pin a Chevron piece to the matching Front Leg Top Panel, at the ⅜ inch seam line, not the raw edge.
One pointed edge of the Chevron will stick out slightly. You want the little triangle where the two pieces meet to be ⅜ inch away from the raw edge. That way, when you sew the two pieces together, they will meet up exactly.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance up towards the Front Leg Panel.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
1.3Pin the other side of the Chevron, right sides together, to the Bottom Leg Panel.
1.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance down towards the Bottom Leg Panel.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
1.5Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 for the other Front Leg. If you are sewing the Plain Back Legs, skip to step 3.
If you are sewing the Back Leg Chevrons, repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4, attaching the Chevrons to the Bum Shaping Back Leg Top Panel and Bottom Leg Panel for both Back Leg pieces.
2 . OPTIONAL Bum Shaping Panel2.0This step can only be used with the Side Stripe Leggings option.
2.1Place your Bum Shaping Yoke with the matching Back Leg Top Panel. Flip the Yoke face down, right sides together, onto the Leg Panel.
Pin one end together. Move the two pieces so the pointed edge of the Yoke sticks out slightly. You want the little triangle where the two pieces meet to be ⅜ inch away from the raw edge. That way, when you sew the two pieces together, they will meet up exactly.
Pin the opposite ends together, then pin the middle. Continue easing the curve and pinning together, until you’re comfortable it won’t slip while you’re sewing.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, making sure not to stretch either piece while sewing.
Press the seam allowance up towards the yoke.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
3 . OPTIONAL Side Stripe/Seam3.0These steps are the same for all Side Stripe Leggings.
3.1Place your Side Stripe, right sides together, onto your Front Leg piece. Pin together.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance towards the Front Leg piece.
3.3Repeat step 3.1 to attach the other raw edge of the Side Stripe to the Back Leg piece. You will now have one full leg piece.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance away from the stripe, using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
Repeat steps 3.1 – 3.3 for the second leg.
4 . Inseam and Rise4.0These steps are the same for all legging options. The Plain Leggings have one full Leg pattern piece (front and back in one), making the outside leg, seam free. The Side Stripe Leg pieces were sewn together in step 3 to create a full leg piece.
4.1Take your Leg piece and fold it right sides together, matching the inseams. Pin together.
NOTE – If you have sewn the Front and Back Chevron option, check that these are matching up.
4.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 for your second leg.
4.3Turn one leg right side out. Slide this leg into the other leg, matching the rises right sides together.
Pin the legs together along this curve.
4.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5 . OPTIONAL Back Waistband Pocket5.0If you are sewing a Plain Back Waistband without a Pocket, skip to step 6.
5.1Place your two Pocket Pieces, right sides together, and pin together along one long raw edge.
5.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance up towards the outer Pocket piece.
5.3OPTIONAL – You can add elastic to the top of the Pocket pieces for additional support. If you don’t need to add elastic, skip to step 5.4 for optional topstitching, or skip to step 5.5.
With your Pocket piece open flat, wrong sides facing up, place your elastic directly under the seam of the inside Pocket piece. Pin on one side, then stretch it across to the other side, and pin place.
5.4Use a zigzag stitch to secure the elastic, stretching it as you sew.
OPTIONAL – With wrong sides together, topstitch on the outer pocket along the seam. If you added elastic in step 5.3, you will be stitching directly over this.
5.5Place your Center Back piece right side facing up. Lay the Pocket piece on top, with the Inside Pocket right side facing down. Match the top seam of the Pocket to the notches on the Center Back piece. Pin.
Baste the Pocket to the Center Back piece, stitching along both sides and the bottom edge.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1-inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
5.6Place your Side Back piece, right sides together, onto the Pocket, matching the straight edges. Pin together.
5.7Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance towards the Side Back piece.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
5.8Repeat steps 5.6 to 5.7 to sew the opposite Side Back piece. Your Back Pocket Waistband will now be one full outer piece.
6 . Waistband6.0This step is constructed the same for the Plain Back and Pocket Back Waistband. We’ve shown it with the optional Back Pocket Waistband piece.
6.1Place a Front and Back Waistband piece right sides together. Pin along one short edge.
NOTE – If you have sewn a Back Pocket Waistband you will now treat this as a full Back Waistband piece.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
OPTIONAL – With right sides facing up, topstitch the seam using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
6.3Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 for the opposite side seam.
Your Waistband will now form a circle.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for the second Front and Back Waistband pieces. This will form your inner/lining Waistband.
6.4Place the Waistband pieces right sides together. Pin the inner and outer Waistband together along the long top edge.
Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6.5FIT CHECK – Try the Waistband on. If you feel it’s too loose, you can add elastic for extra support. If you don’t need to add elastic, skip to step 6.9.
Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each end (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic. Your elastic will now be a circle.
6.6Fold your elastic in half and mark with a pin. Fold in half again and mark the quarter points with a pin.
Open your Waistband piece with wrong sides facing up. Fold in half, matching short edges to find the center of the Waistband. Mark the front and back center with a pin, along the middle waist seam.
6.7Slide the elastic over the Waistband inner/lining, matching the halfway points of the elastic to the waistband side seams, and the quarter points of the elastic to the center of the Waistband. The elastic will sit directly underneath the seam.
Pin at the half and quarter points.
6.8Zig-zag stitch the elastic onto your inner/lining Waistband.
TIP – Stretch the elastic while you sew, being careful not to stretch the fabric.
6.9Mark the quarter points of the top of your leggings. To do this, match up the center front and center back seams. Place a pin at the center front and back, and on each folded side.
6.10Repeat step 6.9 to mark the quarter points of the waistband.
6.11Slip your waistband over your leggings, matching the right sides of the outer waistband to the right sides of your leggings. Match and pin together at the quarter points you marked.
6.12Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7 . Cuffs7.0This step is the same for all legging options.
7.1Fold the Cuff, right sides together, matching the short edges. Fold again matching the long edges. Pin together along the short edge.
NOTE – You should have four layers of fabric pinned together.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7.3Turn the Cuff right sides out and mark the quarter points, as we did in step 6.6.
7.4Mark the quarter points on the bottom raw edge of one Leg.
7.5Slide the Cuff over the Leg, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin together.
7.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance using a stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.6 for the second Leg Cuff.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Lily Leggings are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rplilyleggings.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewLily Leggings
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Create your own stylish mid to high rise workout leggings – suitable for day to day wear, yoga, or for any sport. The plain leg version has a seam free outer leg. Or choose side stripes and chevrons for a sporty look. Best of all, there is an optional back panel to create the illusion of a sculpted bum. Add a deep plain waistband, or a deep waistband with back pocket – it is the perfect place to keep your phone, keys, or even a snack.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Inseam
Front rise
Back rise
Ankle
Calf
XXS
23.00
26.00
26.50
6.50
9.60
6.60
8.00
XS
24.60
27.20
26.50
6.75
10.10
7.00
8.50
S
25.60
28.70
26.50
7.00
10.20
7.30
9.10
M
27.40
30.20
26.50
7.30
10.50
8.00
9.30
L
29.20
31.70
26.50
7.60
11.00
8.10
9.70
XL
32.00
34.00
26.50
8.00
11.30
8.50
10.00
XXL
35.00
36.00
26.75
8.40
12.10
8.70
10.60
3XL
38.40
38.20
26.75
9.00
12.50
9.00
11.10
4XL
42.10
40.40
27.00
9.00
13.10
9.10
11.60
5XL
45.70
42.50
27.00
10.00
14.00
9.30
12.10
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – These leggings have been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 5-12% lycra/elastane to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are cotton lycra, nylon lycra, jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of Lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit. To achieve compression fit, we recommend 18-20% Lycra/elastane.
Panel fabric – You could use power mesh for the paneling as this also has a good 4-way stretch. Bear in mind power mesh is see-through.
We’ve listed the fabric requirements for all the options and pieces so that you can use contrasting fabrics. If you are sewing pieces from the same fabric, you won’t need as much as listed below.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Cuffs
Plain waistband
Waistband with pocket
Plain leggings
XXS
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
XS
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
S
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
M
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
L
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
XXL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.25
3XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.50
4XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.50
5XL
0.25
0.25
0.25
1.75
Side stripe
Side stripe with front chevron panels
Side stripe, chevron & bum shaping panels
Front & back legs
Side stripe
Side stripe
Top front and back leg panel
Chevrons
Bottom leg panel
Top leg panels
Side stripe
Chevrons
Bum shaping yoke
Bottom leg panels
XXS
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
XS
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
S
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
M
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
L
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.50
XL
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
XXL
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
3XL
1.50
1.25
1.25
1.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
4XL
1.50
1.25
1.25
1.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
5XL
1.50
1.25
1.25
1.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL ⅜ inch wide elastic for the back pocket and waistband
- Thread to match
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.