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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
16
Madeleine Maxi Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This Grecian-inspired maxi dress is sleeveless with a circular neckband and gathered bust that flows into a gorgeous front drape. There are two strap options and it is also suitable for maternity wear.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your Size – Choose your size using the bust measurements in the size chart. If your waist and hip measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print all sizes needed. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the bust to the waist. You may not need to grade to the hips as it is loose fitting.
- Height Adjustments – The pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you can add/remove length from the Front Yoke, Front and Back. You may also need to lengthen the Straps if needed. Check the length of the dress using the Center Back to Hem finished measurement in the chart above.
- To adjust the Front Yoke, find the middle of the center front bust (marked on the pattern piece) and cut straight along to the armscye. Add/remove length.
- Add/remove length on the Front and Back at the waist (marked on the pattern piece).
- Bust Adjustments – The pattern is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). If your bust size is above or below a sewing C cup, you do not necessarily have to do a full or small bust adjustment. However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for the Madeleine:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut out all pattern pieces and label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen. For OPTIONAL Strap A (crisscross) you will need to cut binding using the measurements in the cut chart. We recommend sewing the full garment with straps, adjusting the strap lengths for personal fit.
- Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight, however best results and fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric with at least a 20-30% stretch. A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2 way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish around your legs more. Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, silk satin with elastine, and silk jersey with elastine. These will give you a lovely drape and swing.
- Do not use a woven fabric.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. Fabric choice will affect the fit of the bust gathers. Fabric that does not have a good stretch recovery, will cause the gathers to hang loosely, sitting more into the waist than across the bust.
- To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- The optional interlining is a layer of fabric which goes between the outer and inner Neckband. You can’t see it from the outside or inside of the finished garment. It is completely hidden.
- If your fabric has a lot of stretch and is heavy, we recommend attaching interlining onto the back of one of the Neckband pieces. This will become the outer Neckband.
- Our favorite fabric for this is Coutil as it gives the structure while also being breathable.
- Alternatively, you could use a medium weight woven with a little give. It needs to be able to ease slightly as you breathe and move in the garment, while also holding the Neckband firm against your skin. Twill, gabardine drill or other similar weight fabrics are a great alternative.
- Approximately a fat quarter will be sufficient for all sizes.
- ½ inch Elastic – see cut chart below for lengths.
- Interfacing – half a yard will be enough for all sizes. For medium weight knit fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight knit fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give more structure. Stretch interfacing would work best.
- Thread to match
- Front Bodice Outer – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Bodice Inner – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Yoke – Cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
- Front – Cut 1 on fold
- Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Bodice – Cut 1 on fold
- Neckband:
- Fabric – Cut 2 on fold
- Interfacing – Cut 2 on fold
- OPTIONAL Interlining – Cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Straight Straps – Cut 2 on fold
- OPTIONAL Crisscross Straps:
- Outer – Cut 2
- Middle – Cut 2
- Inner – Cut 2
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewMadeleine Maxi Dress
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
Stay cool this summer with this elegant Grecian inspired Madeleine maxi dress. With a beautiful circle neckband flowing gracefully past the gathered bust, draping in the center into the skirt. The dress is slightly fitted at the waist, flowing out at the hips down to the floor, creating a flattering silhouette. Choose between straight or crisscross straps at the back.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bust
Hem circum-ference
Shoulder to under bust
Center back to hem
XXS
27.2
82.0
15.3
49.6
XS
29.2
84.0
15.5
49.6
S
31.0
86.0
15.7
49.6
M
33.0
88.0
16.0
49.6
L
35.0
90.4
16.1
49.6
XL
37.0
93.4
16.3
49.6
XXL
41.0
96.6
16.5
49.6
3XL
44.0
100.0
17.0
50.0
4XL
47.0
102.4
17.7
50.6
5XL
50.2
106
18.1
51.0
Fitting NotesThe Madeleine Maxi is gathered and fitted into the bust, draping from the center front and falling loosely from the hips to the floor. The bust gathers start at the top of the bust line and end at the waistline. Fabric choice can really affect the fit of the gathers. Fabric that does not have a good stretch recovery, will cause the gathers to hang loosely, sitting more into the waist than across the bust.
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric
OPTIONAL Interlining
Fabric Requirements 60 inches / 150 cm (in YARDS)
Dress
XXS – S
3.25
M – 3XL
3.50
4XL – 5XL
4.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, twin needle, and optional serger/overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Dress OPTIONAL Crisscross Straps OPTIONAL Straight Straps XXS 2-6, 8-9, 11-12, 14-20, 22-27, 29-35, 37-44 5, 11, 18, 25 7 XS 2-6, 8-9, 11-20, 22-27, 29-35, 37-44 5, 11, 18, 25 7 S 2-6, 8-9, 11-20, 22-35, 37-44 5, 11, 18, 25 7 M – XL 2-6, 8-20, 22-35, 37-44 5, 11, 18, 25 7 XXL 2-6, 8-20, 22-44 5, 11, 18, 25 7 3XL – 5XL 2-44 5, 11, 18, 25 7 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Dress OPTIONAL Crisscross Straps OPTIONAL Straight Straps XXS – XS 2-6, 8-11, 13-38, 40-41 5, 13, 21, 29 7 S – M 2-6, 8-38, 40-41 5, 13, 21, 29 7 L – XL 2-6, 8-38, 40-42 5, 13, 21, 29 7 XXL 2-38, 40-42 5, 13, 21, 29 7 3XL – 5XL 2-42 5, 13, 21, 29 7 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Crisscross Strap
½ wide Elastic (Cut 1)
Inner (Cut 2)
Middle (Cut 2)
Outer (Cut 2)
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
11.00
1.75
10.30
1.75
9.30
1.75
11.00
XS
12.00
1.75
10.40
1.75
9.40
1.75
12.00
S
13.00
1.75
10.50
1.75
9.50
1.75
13.00
M
14.00
1.75
10.60
1.75
9.60
1.75
14.00
L
15.50
1.75
10.70
1.75
9.70
1.75
15.50
XL
17.00
1.75
11.00
1.75
10.00
1.75
17.00
XXL
18.70
1.75
11.10
1.75
10.10
1.75
18.70
3XL
20.30
1.75
11.20
1.75
10.20
1.75
20.30
4XL
21.60
1.75
11.30
1.75
10.30
1.75
21.60
5XL
23.00
1.75
11.40
1.75
10.40
1.75
23.00
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches onto fabric.
- INTERFACING – Use manufacturer’s instructions and apply iron-on interfacing to Main and Lining Neckband pieces.
- OPTIONAL INTERLINING – Baste interlining onto the Outer Neckband.
- FRONT – Stitch mirrored Front Yoke pieces right sides together along the armscye. Turn right side out, press. Gather side seam and center front of Front Bodice Outer, matching Front Bodice Inner. Put both pieces together, matching side seam and center front seam. Open Yoke, place Front Bodice Outer and Outer Front Yoke right sides together, match upper bust seam, pin. Repeat for the Front Bodice Inner. Baste the Outer then the Inner. Wrong sides together, fold Yoke in half. Match upper bust seam of Outer and Inner Front Bodice with Yoke in the middle, pin, stitch, remove basting stitches, turn right sides out. Repeat for other side. Right sides together, put Front Bodice onto Front, matching center front seam and side seam, stitch, remove gathering stitches. Repeat for the other side. Gather between Front Bodice pieces. Wrong sides together, pin center front seams. Stitch all layers together, press seam allowance open. Place right sides facing up, mark center of middle drape then match to the center front seam, pin, baste.
- OPTIONAL CRISSCROSS STRAPS – Make double fold bias tape with the Outer, Middle and Inner Straps. Pin one Middle Strap to the center of the wrong side of the Neckband on the short edge, pin the Outer Strap next to the Middle Strap on the outer curve, and pin the Inner Strap on the other side of the Middle Strap closer to the inner curve. Baste them in place. Repeat to attach the other Inner, Middle and Outer straps to the other side of the Neckband.
- OPTIONAL STRAIGHT STRAPS – Fold Straight Strap right sides together, stitch, trim seam allowance. Turn right sides out. Center on the wrong side of the Neckband, baste. Repeat for the other Strap on the other side.
- ATTACHING THE NECKBAND – Stitch the Neckbands right sides together. Clip seam allowance on curved edges. Clip corners, turn right sides out, press. Find center of Neckband and center of Front gathered drape. Match centers right sides together, pin between notches, stitch. Use the burrito roll method to: On one side, put the Front Neckband right sides together, pin 2 inches from the short straight edge on the outer curve, stopping at the notch, stitch. Turn right sides out. Use a slipstitch to close the neckband opening.
- BACK – Mark the center of the elastic and the Back Bodice. Match the centers, pin, stretch to each end of the Bodice, pin, stitch. Fold the top of the Back Bodice to the wrong side, pin, topstitch. Put Back pieces right sides together, match notches, pin center back seam, stitch. Match raw edges of Back Bodice and the Back, right sides together, pin, stitch.
- SIDE SEAMS – With right sides of the Front and the Back together, pin, stitch. Repeat on the other side.
- ATTACHING THE STRAPS – OPTIONAL Crisscross Straps: Turn dress inside out, take middle strap from each side, find the center of the Back Bodice and overlap the straps at the center, pin, baste. Next, Left Outer Strap, pin to the left of the Back Bodice, match middle of the Strap to pattern marking, pin, baste. Right Outer Strap, pin to the right side of the Back Bodice, match to the middle of the Strap pattern marking, pin, baste. Then Left Inner Strap, weave under the Right Middle Strap, meet at right hand side of Outer Strap, pin, baste. Right Inner Strap, weave over the left Middle Strap, meet at the left-hand side of Outer Strap, Pin, baste. OPTIONAL Straight Strap: Turn dress inside out, find center of the right strap. Place the unattached edge of the Strap at the strap marking, pin. Repeat for left strap. Both Options – Stitch the straps in place.
- HEMMING – Fold the hem up ½ inch to wrong side, pin, turn dress right side up, topstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Topstitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to the Main and Lining Neckband pieces.
0.3OPTIONAL Interlining
Place the Interlining onto the Outer Neckband. Baste together using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
This will now be treated as one piece.
1 . Front1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place two mirror Front Yoke pieces, right sides together, matching the armscye, and serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then follow steps 1.4 – 1.8. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Remove basting stitches. Turn right sides out. Repeat for the other side. Place the Front Bodice onto the Front, right sides together, matching the center front seam and side seams. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Remove gathering stitches. Repeat for the other side. With right sides together, pin the Front Bodice onto the Front at the center front and bottom of the bodice. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and sew through all 3 layers. Remove the gathering stitches. Repeat on other side of the Front Bodice.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
1.1Place two mirror Front Yoke pieces, right sides together, matching the armscye. Pin.
1.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.3Turn the Front Yoke right sides out, wrong sides together, and press.
1.4Stitch two rows of gathering stitches down the side seam and the center front of the Front Bodice Outer.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
1.5You will need to gather the Front Bodice Outer to match the Front Bodice Inner.
Place the two pieces together, matching the side seams and center front seams.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Front Bodice Outer, until it is the same size as the Front Bodice Inner on both seams.
1.6Open the Yoke. Place the Front Bodice Outer on the Outer Front Yoke, right sides together, matching the upper bust seam. Pin.
Repeat for the Front Bodice Inner.
NOTE – If you are using different fabric for you Inner and Outer, remember to attach the correct Front Bodice pieces to the correct side of the Yoke. We have shown contrasting fabrics.
1.7Baste the Outer using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, then baste the Inner.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – The Outer Yoke won’t be gathered as shown in this picture. Only the Inner Yoke is gathered.
1.8Fold the Yoke in half, wrong sides together. Match the upper bust seam of the Outer and Inner Front Bodice pieces, with the Yoke in the middle. Pin.
NOTE – Only the Yoke will be wrong sides together. The Bodice will be folded right sides together with the Yoke sandwiched in between when folded together.
1.9Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Remove your basting stitches.
1.10Turn right sides out. The upper bust seam is now enclosed between the outer and the inner.
NOTE – This will now be called the Front Bodice.
1.11Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.10 for the other side.
NOTE – As you will be sewing the mirror image, the outer and inner front bodice will be the reverse on the yoke.
1.12Place the Front Bodice onto the Front, right sides together, matching the center front seam and side seams, pin together.
NOTE – The image is showing the pieces laid flat from the wrong side.
1.13Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will be stitching through three layers. Go slowly and use a walking foot if needed.
1.14Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the thread so that they come all the way through the fabric.
Find the thread from the underside of the fabric by going in between the layers at the side seam and pull it out too.
1.15Repeat step 1.12 to 1.14 for the other side.
1.16Stitch two rows of gathering stitches in between the Front Bodice pieces at the top of the Dress Front, following the same process as step 1.4.
NOTE – You will be gathering this section in step 1.20.
1.17With the wrong side facing up, pick up the center front seams on each Front Bodice and pin them together along the center front seam.
NOTE – Check to make sure the gathering stitches made in step 1.16 are out of the way.
1.18Stitch through all six layers using the seam you stitched in step 1.13 as your guide for seam allowance.
NOTE – You cannot use a serger for this step.
NOTE – If you used a serger in step 1.13 your seam allowance will be around ¼ inch. If you used a sewing machine it will be ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Check you have not caught the middle of the dress in your stitches.
1.19Press the seam allowance open to reduce bulk.
1.20With right sides facing up, mark the center of the middle drape and match it to the seam sewn in step 1.18.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather evenly between the center point on each side.
1.21Pin the gathered section to the Front Bodice.
1.22Baste using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2 . OPTIONAL Crisscross Straps2.0If you are sewing the optional straight straps, skip to step 3.
2.1If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!
Fold the Outer strap in half, length wise, wrong sides together. Press.
2.2Open this piece flat again and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the center fold made in the previous step. Press.
2.3Fold in half, along your original fold line and press.
2.4Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.
Press one short end ¼ inch to the wrong side.
NOTE – This will be the edge you are attaching to the dress.
2.5Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 for the second Outer strap.
2.6Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 for both Inner Straps and both Middle Straps.
You will have six straps in total.
2.7Pin one Middle Strap at the center of the right side of the Neckband, at the straight short edge.
Pin the Outer Strap next to the Middle Strap, on the outer curve (red clip) of the Neckband.
Pin the Inner Strap on the other side of the Middle Strap, closer to the inner curve of the Neckband.
NOTE – You are attaching the edge that is not folded under.
2.8Baste using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2.9Repeat steps 2.7 to 2.8 to attach the other Inner, Middle and Outer straps to the other side of the Neckband.
3 . OPTIONAL Straight Straps3.0If you are sewing the optional crisscross straps, skip to step 4.
3.1Fold the Straight Strap length wise, right sides together and pin.
3.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch inch seam allowance.
3.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
3.4Turn right sides out.
There are several ways to turn the Strap right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it with a loop turner.
Insert the loop turner inside the Strap until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you’ve turned the tube right side out completely.
Roll the seam under between your fingers so that it lays flat. Press.
Fold the raw edge on one side of the Strap over by ⅜ inch. This is the edge you will be attaching to the dress.
3.5Find the center of the right side of the Neckband and the center of the Strap. Pin, right sides together, matching centers, with the seam of the Strap (longer edge) facing the inner curve of the Neckband.
NOTE – You are attaching the edge that is not folded under.
3.6Baste the Straps or Back Neckband to the Lining Neckband using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.7Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.6 for the other Strap, attaching it to the other side of the Neckband.
4 . Attaching the Neckband4.0This step is for either strap option. The images show the crisscross strap option; however, the steps are the same.
4.1Place the two Neckbands right sides together. Starting on the outer curve notch, pin together, along the straight short edge, inner curve, short side and back down to the other notch on the outer curve.
NOTE – Check that the side of your Straps are out the way, otherwise you will catch them into the Neckband edges.
4.2Stitch from notch to notch, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.3Clip into the seam allowance along all curved edges. Trim across the corners to reduce bulk. Clip close to the stitches, but do not cut the stitches.
TIP – Press the unstitched outer curves of the Neckband ⅜ inch to the wrong side, creating a memory hem on each side.
4.4Turn right sides out and push out the corners.
Press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
4.5Find the center of the Neckband (inner curve) and the center of the gathered drape on the Front. Matching the centers, pin right sides together. Continue pinning the Neckband between the notches on the Neckband.
4.6Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – If you created a memory hem in step 4.3, you will be stitching along this pressed seam.
4.7Starting at the bottom of the Bodice, roll the Bodice and Straps tightly up towards the Neckband. Match the two front neckband pieces on one side, right sides together, with the Bodice and Straps, still rolled tightly, in between the two layers.
Start pinning 2 inches away from the short straight edge, along the outer curve of the Neckband, stopping at the notch.
4.8Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Repeat step 4.7 to 4.8 for the other side.
4.9Turn the Neckband right sides out.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
4.10Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the open outer curve of the Neckband to the Front. If you created a memory hem in step 4.3, you will be stitching along this pressed seam.
Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the Neckband to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.
The knotted end will now be concealed within the seam on the inside.
4.11Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.
Repeat steps 4.10 to 4.11 until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.
4.12To end off, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.
NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.
4.13Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.
4.14Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the Neckband so that the tail is now hidden inside.
5 . Back5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 5.1 to 5.4. Then, with right sides together, pin the Back pieces together, matching the pattern marking. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. With right sides together, pin the bottom of the Back Bodice onto the top of the Back. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
5.1Mark the center of your elastic and the center of the wrong side of the Back Bodice. Matching the centers, stretch the elastic to meet each end of the Bodice and pin.
NOTE – You will be attaching the elastic to the Back Bodice edge with notches.
5.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.3Fold the top of the Back Bodice over to the wrong side. This will enclose the elastic. Pin in place.
5.4Topstitch using a stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch.
5.5Place both Back Skirt pieces right sides together, matching them at the notches. Pin along the Back Center seam.
5.6Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.7Matching the raw edges, place the Back Bodice onto the Back, right sides together. Pin.
5.8Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6 . Side Seams6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With right sides together, pin the Front and Back dress along the side seam. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Press to the back. Repeat on the other side. Then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the steps below.
6.1With right sides together, pin the Front to the Back along the side seam.
6.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Back.
6.3Repeat step 6.1 to 6.2 for the other side seam.
7 . Attaching the Straps7.0FIT CHECK – For either strap option, try the dress on your model and check the strap lengths. The straps should sit flush against your back.
For OPTIONAL Crisscross straps start at step 7.1, then skip to step 7.3. For OPTIONAL Straight Straps start at step 7.2.
7.1OPTIONAL CRISSCROSS STRAPS – Turn the dress inside out. Take the Middle Strap on each side, find the center of the Back Bodice and overlap the straps at the center. Pin and baste.
Take the left Outer Strap and pin it to the left side of the Back Bodice, matching the middle of the Strap to the pattern marking. Take the right Outer Strap and pin it to the right side of the Back Bodice, matching the middle of the Strap to the pattern marking. Pin and baste.
Take the left Inner Strap and weave it under the right Middle Strap, meeting at the right hand side of the Outer Strap. Pin and baste.
Take the right Inner Strap and weave it over the left Middle Strap, meeting at the left hand side of the Outer Strap. Pin and baste.
7.2STRAIGHT STRAP – Turn the dress inside out. Find the center of the right Strap. With the Back Bodice facing wrong sides up, place the unattached (folded) edge of the Strap at the strap marking, matching the center of the Strap to the marking. Pin. Repeat for the left Strap.
NOTE – The longer edge/seam should be facing into the middle. The folded edge will be facing towards the outer edge.
NOTE – This image shows the ends of the straps attached with the raw edge, but we recommend folding the edges under for a neater finish.
7.3Stitch the straps in place using a stretch stitch, coverstitch or twin needle.
TIP – Use a box stitch or triple stretch stitch to secure the Straps even more.
NOTE – This image shows the ends of the straps attached with the raw edge, but we recommend folding the edges under for a neater finish.
8 . Hemming8.0FIT CHECK – Try the dress on, check you are happy with the length and adjust if needed. Make sure to allow ½ inch for your hem.
8.1OPTIONAL – Finish the dress raw edge with a stretch overcasting stitch.
Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side and pin in place.
TIP – By pinning/clipping every 1 ½ inches this will secure your hem and make it easier to sew. You can use fusible hemming tape which will stabilize the hem making it easier to sew. Check that the tape is sew-able.
8.2Turn the dress right side facing up and topstitch using a medium length straight stitch just under ½ inch. Press.
Alternately you could hem using a twin needle, a zigzag stitch, a roll hem or a cover stitch.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Madeline Maxi is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpmadelinemaxi.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewMadeleine Maxi Dress
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
Stay cool this summer with this elegant Grecian inspired Madeleine maxi dress. With a beautiful circle neckband flowing gracefully past the gathered bust, draping in the center into the skirt. The dress is slightly fitted at the waist, flowing out at the hips down to the floor, creating a flattering silhouette. Choose between straight or crisscross straps at the back.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bust
Hem circum-ference
Shoulder to under bust
Center back to hem
XXS
27.2
82.0
15.3
49.6
XS
29.2
84.0
15.5
49.6
S
31.0
86.0
15.7
49.6
M
33.0
88.0
16.0
49.6
L
35.0
90.4
16.1
49.6
XL
37.0
93.4
16.3
49.6
XXL
41.0
96.6
16.5
49.6
3XL
44.0
100.0
17.0
50.0
4XL
47.0
102.4
17.7
50.6
5XL
50.2
106
18.1
51.0
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric
- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight, however best results and fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric with at least a 20-30% stretch. A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2 way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish around your legs more. Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, silk satin with elastine, and silk jersey with elastine. These will give you a lovely drape and swing.
- Do not use a woven fabric.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. Fabric choice will affect the fit of the bust gathers. Fabric that does not have a good stretch recovery, will cause the gathers to hang loosely, sitting more into the waist than across the bust.
- To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
OPTIONAL Interlining
- The optional interlining is a layer of fabric which goes between the outer and inner Neckband. You can’t see it from the outside or inside of the finished garment. It is completely hidden.
- If your fabric has a lot of stretch and is heavy, we recommend attaching interlining onto the back of one of the Neckband pieces. This will become the outer Neckband.
- Our favorite fabric for this is Coutil as it gives the structure while also being breathable.
- Alternatively, you could use a medium weight woven with a little give. It needs to be able to ease slightly as you breathe and move in the garment, while also holding the Neckband firm against your skin. Twill, gabardine drill or other similar weight fabrics are a great alternative.
- Approximately a fat quarter will be sufficient for all sizes.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches / 150 cm (in YARDS)
Dress
XXS – S
3.25
M – 3XL
3.50
4XL – 5XL
4.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ½ inch Elastic – see cut chart below for lengths.
- Interfacing – half a yard will be enough for all sizes. For medium weight knit fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight knit fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give more structure. Stretch interfacing would work best.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, twin needle, and optional serger/overlocker.