Magical Round Purse - Safari Pack

Thread the needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

On the inside of one of the fabric pieces, put the needle through a tiny bit of fabric.

Pull the thread almost all the way to the knot. Stop pulling, split the thread close to the knot creating a gap then slip the needle through the gap.

Pull the thread taut. The thread should now be knotted to the fabric.

NOTE – Tying the thread to the fabric this way will prevent the knot from coming through the fabric as you stitch.

Put the needle through to the right side or underside of the fabric depending on which side of the fabric the needle needs to be on for the next step.

Backstitches are used for outlining or adding fine detail.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.

Push the needle back into the same hole as step 2.2, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.

Repeat steps 2.3 to 2.4 creating a length of backstitches as desired.

Satin stitches are flat stitches used to fill in a shape with smooth straight stitches giving a satin-like look.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric piece, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Stitch around the entire shape, following the ‘Backstitch’ directions above, creating an outline.

Bring the needle to the right side of the fabric at the outer edge of the stitching done in step 3.2 near the middle of your shape.

Move the needle across the shape, pushing the needle down through the fabric on the outside of the shape.

NOTE – A Satin Stitch can be stitched vertically or on an angle, stitching on an angle gives a different look to the stitches.

NOTE – As you form the stitches, make sure not to twist the strands so the strands stay flat.

Bring the needle back to the right side next to the first stitch. Push the needle back down next to the first stich at the outer edge of the stitching from step 3.2.

TIP – The stitches should always begin on one side of the shape and end on the other side. Although it is tempting to save thread by starting the next stitch next to a completed stitch, this creates gaps instead of a solid satin look.

Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.5 stitching along one side of the shape.

Bring the needle back to the first stitch. Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.5 to complete the opposite side of the shape.

This stitch is used to create small decorative knots. Don’t let French Knots scare you, they aren’t as scary as you may think.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Push the needle to the underside of the fabric and then bring it to the right side of the fabric at the point you want to add the French knot. Pull the thread all the way to the right side.

Working close to where the thread comes out of the fabric, wrap the thread around the needle three times.

NOTE – If you wrap the thread more than three times, the French knots can become loose or untidy.

Carefully tighten the thread on the needle and pull the threads together on the needle. Holding the threads taut on the needle, push the needle into the fabric close to where you brought the needle to the right side of the fabric. Slowly pull the needle through to the underside. This will create a French Knot on the right side of the fabric.

NOTE – Do not push the thread back through the same hole as the working thread. Push it through just next to the original hole, leaving a little space of fabric between.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for each French knot.

TIP – Cluster these together to create a dense, textured filling, or scatter them loosely to create a lightness to your embroidery. Creating individual French knots can give your design a little punctuation.

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

NOTE – For the Lion OPTION: When transferring the pattern markings for the Face, mark the quarter points on the wrong side of the Face with chalk, a disappearing ink pen, or pins. DO NOT cut notches into the fabric.

OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing

Trace the pattern pieces for all the characters details you are using onto the backing of your fusible webbing. Write what each piece is on the paper side of the fusible webbing.

NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored).

NOTE – The pictures used are from a different pattern, however, the techniques are the same.

Cut roughly around the fusible webbing for each pattern piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the fusible webbing has been attached to the fabric.

Group the fusible webbing pieces into colors (e.g. put all of the blacks together, all of the white together, and so on).

Keeping pieces grouped by color, apply the fusible webbing to your fabric pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using fusible webbing.

Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.

Flamingo OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.

• Flamingo Body to Main Front

Then skip to the Batting preparation step if adding, or to step 1.

Giraffe OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press

• Face to Main Front
• Nostrils to Nose

Lion OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.

• Eye Shine to Eye

Then skip to the Batting preparation step if adding, or to step 10.

Sloth OPTION – Place the pieces as follows, using the pattern markings. Press.

• Eyeshine to Eye
• Eye to Eye Patch
• Nose to Mouth Patch

Then skip to the Batting preparation step if adding, or to step 16.

OPTIONAL Sew and Turn Applique

Many of the character features are made without seam allowances. If you are using fabrics that may fray, the sew and turn applique method will hide the raw edges giving the character features a clean finish.

Only the pieces listed below should be made with the OPTIONAL sew and turn applique method. Pieces marked with a (*) are small, and while possible may be difficult to do.

NOTE – The Eye Shines and Nostrils are too small to reasonably use this method.

Flamingo OPTION

Flamingo Body: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

Underwing: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

Upperwing: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

Main Beak: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

Beak Tip: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

NOTE–The Flamingo Eye is too small to use the sew and turn applique method

Giraffe OPTION

Face: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1

Nose: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1

*Eye: Fabric cut 2, Back cut 2

*Large Spot: Fabric cut 10 (x5 mirrored pairs),

Back cut 10 (x5 mirrored pairs)

*Small Spot: Fabric cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair),

Back cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair)

Elephant OPTION

*Eye: Fabric cut 2, Back cut 2

Lion OPTION

Muzzle: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

Face: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1

Inner Ear: Fabric cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair),

Back (x1 mirrored pair)

*Eye: Fabric cut 2, Back cut 2

*Nose: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

Sloth OPTION

Arm: Fabric cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair),

Back cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair)

Claws: Fabric cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair),

Back cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair)

Face: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

Eye Patch: Fabric cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair),

Back cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair)

Mouth Patch: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

*Eye: Fabric cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair),

Back cut 2 (x1 mirrored pair)

*Nose: Fabric cut 1, Back cut 1 mirrored

Trace the pattern piece onto a piece of paper. Add a ½ inch seam allowance around the entire pattern piece.

NOTE – The pictures used are for the Muzzle for the Lion OPTION. However, the techniques are the same for all the pattern pieces.

Cut out the new pattern piece with the seam allowance added.

Using the new pattern piece, cut out the required pieces according to the list above.

NOTE – Your main and backing fabric can be the same. However, if you are using a bulkier fabric, we recommend using a thinner fabric such as muslin, a quilting cotton or cut away stabilizer for the back.

Place the Main and Lining pieces right sides together. Pin.

Stitch all the way around using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Do not leave any gaps.

Either use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance, or trim with regular scissors then make notches into the curved sections.

Trim the seam allowance to a scant ¼ inch. You may need to clip into curves (making sure not to cut the seam), and trim corners.

Pull the Main and Lining away from each other and make a small snip on the Lining side. Carefully extend this to approximately 1 – 2 inch gap.

Turn right sides out through this gap and press, making sure the curves are all the way out.

Press the pieces. They are now ready to use.

Repeat for all other pieces you are using this method on.

TIP– For an invisible or seamless applique appearance, when applying your pieces, you can hand stitch the pieces down using a ladder stitch instead of the topstitching detailed in the tutorial.

OPTIONAL Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron interfacing onto the wrong side of your pattern pieces.

OPTIONAL Batting

Place your cut out pattern pieces onto the batting. Pin in place.

NOTE – Do not leave any unpinned areas bigger than your palm. This will hold the layers together ready for quilting.

Cut the batting bigger than the pattern piece.

Choose the style you would like to sew and begin at that step.

Stitch around the Flamingo Body using a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, or blanket stitch.

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.

Place the Main Beak onto the Flamingo Body and Main Front using the pattern markings. Press.

NOTE – If you haven’t transferred the pattern markings, the Main Beak will overlap the Flamingo Body by ¼ inch.

Repeat step 1.1 to stitch around the Main Beak.

Repeat step 1.2 to 1.3 to attach the Beak Tip.

NOTE – The Beak Tip will overlap the Main Beak by ¼ inch.

Repeat step 1.2 to 1.3 to attach the Eye.

Place the Upper Wing onto the Under Wing, aligning the top and right edges. Press.

Stitch the scalloped edges of the Upper Wing to the Under Wing using a straight stitch, zigzag stitch or blanket stitch.

Baste the curved edges together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

NOTE – If you have used fusible webbing, you do not need to baste the edges together.

Place the Wings onto the back curve of the Flamingo Body back using the pattern markings. Press.

Using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, stitch the Wings onto the Flamingo Body.

Remove any visible basting stitches.

OPTIONAL Fusible Fleece:

If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece for the feet, trim off the seam allowance. Apply fusible fleece to the wrong side of the Foot following the manufacturer’s directions.

OPTIONAL Batting or Foam Interfacing:

If using OPTIONAL batting or foam interfacing for the feet, stitch the foam onto the wrong side of the Foot, close to the stitch line.

Trim the seam allowance of the foam ONLY, close to the stitching line, being careful not to cut the main fabric.

Place two Foot pieces right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece, batting or foam interfacing make sure that you are using one Foot piece with fusible fleece, batting, or foam interfacing, and one Foot piece without.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. leaving a 1-½ inch opening on one of the long sides of the Foot.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Clip into the curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out.

TIP – Use a chopstick or similar tool to push out the toes. Gently roll the seam between the fingers to help smooth the curved edges.

On the open edge of the Foot, then fold the seam allowance to the inside. Press.

Topstitch around the foot using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Stitch the decorative lines onto the Foot.

Repeat steps 3.2 to 3.8 for second Foot.

Fold one Leg in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin.

Using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitch along one short edge and then along the long edge.

TIP – If you are using a lighter weight material such as quilting cotton, reduce your stitch length to a 2.

Trim seam allowance approximately in half. Trim the corner to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn the Leg right side out.

Press approximately 1 to 2 inches from the stitched end of the Leg.

Pin the stitched end of the Leg onto the Foot using the pattern markings. Pin.

Attach the Leg onto the Foot by stitching a small square just inside the Leg.

Measure 5 inches down from the top of the Leg, approximately halfway down the Leg.

Tie a single knot in the Leg.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.8 for the second Leg.

Align the raw edges of the top of the Legs with the pattern markings on the raw edge of the Main Front.

TIP– You can adjust the length of the legs if you would like them to be shorter. Once you decide on your preferred length, trim the leg and shift the knot so that it is roughly half way down the leg.

Baste the Legs in place.

This is now considered the Flamingo Front Piece.

Skip to step 17 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 18 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

Using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, stitch around the Face using a straight stitch, zig zag stitch or blanket stitch.

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.

TIP– For a faux satin stitch you can use a zigzag stitch and decrease with length to less than 1, and a width between 3 and 4. Line up the edge of the piece so that the one side of the zig zag falls just outside of the edge of the piece, and the other side is well within the piece. Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust stitch length or width until you have your desired look.

Repeat step 5.1 to attach the Nostrils to the Nose.

Place the Nose onto the Face and Main Front using the pattern markings. Press.

NOTE – If you haven’t transferred the pattern markings, the Nose will overlap the Face by ¼ inch.

Repeat step 5.1 to stitch around the Nose.

Place the Large Spots onto the Main Front using the pattern markings. Press.

Repeat step 5.1 to stitch around the Large Spots.

Place the Small Spots onto the Main Front using the pattern markings. Press.

Repeat step 5.1 to stitch around the Small Spots.

Place the Eye onto the Main Front using the pattern markings. Press.

Repeat step 5.1 to stitch around the Eyes.

Trim any spots that extend over the edge of the Front.

OPTIONAL Fusible Fleece:

If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece for the Ears, trim off seam allowance ½ inch. Apply the fusible fleece to the wrong side of an Ear, following the manufacturer’s directions.

OPTIONAL Foam Interfacing or Batting:

If using OPTIONAL foam interfacing or Batting for the Ears, baste the foam/Batting onto the wrong side of an Ear, close to the stitching line (a scant ½ inch seam allowance). Trim the seam allowance of the foam/Batting ONLY, close to the stitching line, being careful not to cut the main fabric.

NOTE – Make sure that the two ear pieces are a mirrored pair.

Place two Ear pieces right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece, foam interfacing or Batting for the Ears, use one Ear with the fusible fleece, foam interfacing or Batting and one Ear without.

Using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitch around the Ear leaving the bottom open for turning.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Clip into the curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out. Press.

TIP – Use a chopstick or other similar tool to push out any curves or corners. Roll the seam gently between your fingers to help the curves look smoother.

Fold the edge of the Ear following the pattern markings, lining up the bottom raw edge.

Using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, stitch in place.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 for the second ear.

Clip into the curve a ¼ inch at the bottom raw edge of the Ear, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

NOTE – The seam allowance for the Ear is ½ inch, so be careful to stay within the seam allowance.

Place the Ears onto the Main Front at the pattern marking with the right sides together, and the folded edges facing towards the top. The two curves will not match.

Start by pinning the center of the Ear at the pattern marking. Then gently spread out the curve of the bottom edge of the Ear to match the Main Front. Pin.

Baste using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final purse, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Repeat steps 8.9 to 8.11 to attach the second Ear.

Place an Ossicone Tip right sides together with the matching Ossicone Main, aligning the straight edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press open the seam allowance.

This is now considered an Ossicone.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 with the remaining Ossicone Tips and Ossicone Mains.

OPTIONAL Fusible Fleece:

If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece for the Ossicone Batting, center the Ossicone Batting piece on the wrong side of one Ossicone. Apply the fusible fleece to one of the Ossicone pieces following the manufacturer’s directions. Repeat for a second mirrored Ossicone.

OPTIONAL Foam Interfacing:

If using OPTIONAL foam interfacing or Batting for the Ossicone Batting, center the Ossicone Batting piece on the wrong side of one Ossicone. Pin. Baste the Ossicone Batting onto the Ossicone, close to the edge of the Ossicone Batting. Repeat for a second mirrored Ossicone.

Place two Ossicone right sides together. Pin. Be sure to match the seams.

NOTE – If you used OPTIONAL Ossicone Batting, make sure to use one Ossicone with Ossicone Batting and one Ossicone without the batting.

Stitch around the Ossicone using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the bottom open for turning.

Trim seam allowance approximately in half.

Clip the top curve, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out. Press.

Repeat steps 7.6 to 7.9 for the second Ossicone.

Clip into the curve a ¼ inch at the bottom raw edge of the Ossicones, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

NOTE – The seam allowance for the Ossicone is ½ inch, so be careful not to cut into the stitching.

Place the Ossicones onto the Main Front piece at the pattern markings right sides together.

The two curves will not match. Pin the center at the pattern marking. Starting from the center, gently spread out the Ossicone curve to match the Main Front. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Machine embroider the mouth details using the pattern markings and a contrasting thread. Alternatively, hand stitch the mouth with embroidery floss, using backstitches.

TIP – The following machine stitches are great to use:  a narrow faux satin stitch, or a triple straight stitch. Using top stitching thread or using two threads with a straight stitch also works well.

This is now considered the Giraffe Main Front Piece

Skip to step 17 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 18 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece for the Trunk or Ears, trim off seam allowance. Apply the fusible fleece to the wrong side of one of the Trunk pieces and two of the four Ear pieces following the manufacturer’s directions.

If using OPTIONAL foam interfacing or batting for the Trunk or Ears, baste the foam/Batting onto the wrong side of one of Trunk pieces and two of the four Ears, close to the stitching line (a scant ½ inch seam allowance). Trim the seam allowance of the foam/Batting ONLY, close to the stitching line, being careful not to cut the main fabric.

NOTE – Make sure that the two ear pieces are a mirrored pair.

Place the two Trunk pieces right sides together. Pin.

Stitch around the Trunk pieces using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave a 1 ½ inch opening on one edge of the Trunk.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. Clip into the curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out through the opening. On the open edge of the Trunk, fold seam allowance to the inside. Press.

TIP – Use a chopstick or other similar tool to push out any curves or corners. Roll the seam gently between your fingers to help the curves look smoother.

Topstitch around the Trunk with a ⅛ inch seam allowance. You’ll be stitching the opening closed when you do this.

Stitch the decorative lines onto the Trunk.

Tip – If you want these lines to really stand out, use a contrasting thread.

Place the Trunk onto the Main Front using the pattern markings.

Stitch the Trunk to the Main Front along the top edge, between the markings indicated on the pattern.

Place two Ear pieces right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece, batting or foam make sure you are using one ear with and one without the fusible fleece, batting, or foam.

Stitch around the Ear using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the side open for turning.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Clip into the curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out. Press.

Fold the edge of the Ear where indicated on the pattern piece. Pin.

Baste in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final purse, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Repeat step 9.1 to 9.6 for the second Ear.

Clip the curve ¼ inch at the side raw edge of the Ears.

NOTE – The seam allowance for the Ear is ½ inch, so be careful to stay within the seam allowance.

Place the Ears onto the Main Front at the pattern marking right sides together. The side of the Ear with the fold should be facing toward the Main Front.

The two curves will not match. Pin the center at the pattern marking. Starting from the center, gently spread out the ear curve to match the Main Front. Pin.

Baste using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 9.9 to 9.10 to attach the second Ear.

Use the pattern markings to place the Eyes onto the Main Front Piece. Press.

Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance and a straight stitch, zig zag stitch or blanket stitch.

TIP – For a faux satin stitch you can use a zigzag stitch and decrease with length to less than 1, and a width between 3 and 4. Line up the edge of the piece so that the one side of the zig zag falls just outside of the edge of the piece, and the other side is well within the piece. Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust stitch length or width until you have your desired look.

TIP – You can change the eye placement for different looks or expressions.

Repeat steps 9.12 to 9.13 to attach the Eye Shine to the Eye.

Pin the loose edge of the trunk up towards the center of the Elephant Main Front piece so it doesn’t get caught when constructing the purse.

This is now considered the Elephant Main Front Piece.

Skip to step 17 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 18 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

Stitch around Eye Shine using a straight stitch, zig zag stitch or blanket stitch.

TIP– For a faux satin stitch you can use a zigzag stitch and decrease with length to less than 1, and a width between 3 and 4. Line up the edge of the piece so that the one side of the zig zag falls just outside of the edge of the piece, and the other side is well within the piece. Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust stitch length or width until you have your desired look.

Place the Eye onto the Face using the pattern markings. Press.

Repeat step 10.1 to attach the Eyes to the Face.

Repeat step 10.2 to 10.3 to attach the Muzzle to the Face.

Repeat step 10.2 to 10.3 to attach the Nose to the Muzzle and the Face.

OPTIONAL Fusible Fleece:

If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece for the Outer Ear, trim off the seam allowance. Apply fusible fleece to the wrong side of two of the Outer Ears following the manufacturer’s directions.

OPTIONAL Foam Interfacing:

If using OPTIONAL foam interfacing or batting for the Outer Ear, baste the foam/batting onto the wrong side of two of the Outer Ears, close to the stitching line. Trim the seam allowance of the foam/Batting ONLY, close to the stitching line, being careful not to cut the main fabric.

NOTE – Make sure that the two Outer Ear pieces are a mirrored pair.

Place the wrong side of the Inner Ear onto the right side of the Outer Ear, aligning the pattern markings and matching the bottom edge. Press.

NOTE – If using OPTIONAL fusible fleece, foam interfacing or batting for the Outer Ear, use an Outer Ear WITHOUT the fusible fleece, foam interfacing or batting.

Using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, stitch along the top curve with a straight stitch, zig zag stitch or blanket stitch.

NOTE – This will now be treated an Outer Ear piece.

Place two Outer Ears right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Double check you are pairing an Outer Ear with an Inner Ear attached to it, and a plain Outer Ear together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the bottom open for turning.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Clip into the curve, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out. Press.

Repeat steps 11.2 to 11.7 for the second ear.

Clip the curve ¼ inch at the bottom raw edge of the Ears.

NOTE – The seam allowance for the Ear is ½ inch, so be sure to stay within the seam allowance.

Place the Ears onto the Main Front piece at the pattern marking, right sides together.

The two curves will not match. Pin the center at the pattern marking. Starting from the center, gently spread out the Ear curve to match the Main Front. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final purse, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Cut along all of the pattern markings on the Fringed Mane.

NOTE – If you used the cut chart and didn’t print the pattern piece, you will cut a 1 ½ inch slit every ⅜ inch along one edge of the Fringe Mane.

Find and mark the quarter points of the Fringed Mane. You can do this by folding the Fringed Mane in half lengthwise, matching the short ends and then folding in half again.

Place pins marking the halfway and quarter points.

Find and mark the quarter points of the Face. Then, place the Face wrong side facing up.

Place the right side of the Fringed Mane so it overlaps the wrong side of the Face by ⅜ inch, match the quarter points. Pin.

NOTE – The middle of the Fringed Mane should be at the top of the Face, and the ends should meet at the bottom Face quarter point.

Keep pinning the rest of the Fringed Mane to the Face, making sure it is ⅜ inch from the edge of the Face.

TIP – Use fusible webbing around the edge of the wrong side of the Face to hold the Fringed Mange in place.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance from the edge of the Face. Double check to make sure you are catching the Fringed Mane in the stitching.

The Fringed Mane will now be referred to as Mane.

Continue to Step 14 attach the Face.

Place the short edges of the Gathered Mane with the right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open.

Fold in half lengthwise placing the wrong sides together, matching the raw edges. Press.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the bottom matched raw edges of the Ruffled Mane.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

Find and mark the quarter points of the Ruffled Mane. You can do this by folding the Ruffled Mane in half lengthwise, then fold in half lengthwise again.

Place pins marking the half and quarter points.

Find and mark the quarter points of the Face. Then, place the Face wrong side facing up.

Place the Ruffled Mane so it overlaps the wrong side of the Face by ⅜ inch, matching the quarter points. Pin.

NOTE – The middle of the Ruffled Mane should be at the top of the Face, and the seam should meet at the bottom Face quarter point.

Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather the Ruffled Mane to fit inside the Face.

TIP – You will need to pull the thread closest to the raw edge tighter than the outer thread in order to get the Face to lay flat in a circle.

Keep pinning the rest of the Ruffled Mane to the Face, making sure it is ⅜ inch from the edge of the Face.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance from the edge of the Face. Double check to make sure you are catching the Ruffled Mane in the stitching.

The Ruffled Mane will now be referred to as Mane.

Continue to Step 14 attach the Face.

Center the Face with attached Mane on the Main Front. Pin.

Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance around the Face, through the edge of the Mane, using a straight stitch, zig zag stitch or blanket stitch.

Remove any visible basting stitches from the Mane and Face.

NOTE – It may be difficult to stitch through the Face, Mane and Main Front. If you find it a struggle, try one of the following: lengthen your stitch, using the handwheel on your sewing machine rather than the foot pedal, using a larger needle or using a wedge to lift the presser foot up before placing the fabric under the presser foot.

Remove any visible basting stitches from the Mane and Face.

Using embroidery floss, make six French Knots on the Muzzle where indicated on the pattern.

Pin the Mane out of the way towards the center of the Lion Main Front Piece so it doesn’t get caught when constructing the purse.

This is now considered Lion Main Front Piece.

Skip to step 17 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 18 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

Stitch around the Eye Shine using a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, or blanket stitch.

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

TIP – Test the stitching on a scrap piece of fabric first and adjust until you have your desired look.

Repeat step 16.1 to attach the Eye to the Eye Patch.

Place the Eye Patches onto the Face using the pattern marking. Press.

Repeat step 16.1 to attach the Eye Patches to the Face.

Repeat step 16.3 to 16.4 to attach the Nose to the Mouth Patch.

Repeat step 16.3 to 16.4 to attach the Nose and Mouth Patch to the Face.

Repeat step 16.3 to 16.4 to attach the Face to the Main Front.

Repeat step 16.3 to 16.4 to attach the Arms to the Main Front.

Repeat step 16.3 to 16.4 to attach the Claws to the Main Front.

Machine embroider the Mouth and Claws details using the pattern markings and a contrasting thread.

Alternatively, hand stitch the Claw Details and Mouth with embroidery floss, using backstitches.

TIP – The following machine stitches are great to use:  a narrow faux satin stitch, or a triple straight stitch. Using top stitching thread or using two threads with a straight stitch also works well.

This is now considered the Sloth Main Front piece.

Skip to step 17 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 18 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

We recommend quilting your batting to your fabric pieces to prevent them from moving.

If you do not wish to quilt, skip to step 17.3 to baste the pieces together.

Skip to step 17 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 18 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

We recommend quilting your batting to your fabric pieces to prevent them from moving.

If you do not wish to quilt, skip to step 17.3 to baste the pieces together.

Skip to step 17 for OPTIONAL quilting.

Skip to step 18 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

Repeat steps 17.1 to 17.2 for all pieces with batting.

OPTIONAL – Baste the Main and batting pieces together at the outer edges, as close as you can to the raw edge.

If you have quilted your pattern pieces, cut your batting to the same size as the pattern piece.

If you have chosen not to quilt, you can trim the seam allowance off the batting pieces before basting. This reduces bulk in the seams.

Skip to step 18 for OPTIONAL Zipper Pocket.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

This pocket can be added to the front of a plain OPTION, or you can also add it to the Back of any option. These steps show how to attach the Zipper Pocket to the Front. If you are only attaching it to the Back, follow the same steps but using the Main Back piece instead of the Main Front.

Lay the Main Front piece right side facing up. Place the Rectangle on top, right sides together, matching pattern markings. Pin.

Stitch around the Rectangle.

TIP – When you reach a corner, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the pieces. Lower the presser foot and stitch down the short side.

Draw a line down the center of the rectangle, stopping ½ inch from each end.

Draw a line connecting the end of the straight line to each corner, creating Y shapes at each end of the line.

Carefully snip through both layers along the middle line, then the corners on each end. Take careful, slow snips to the corners, getting close to the stitches without cutting through them.

Push the Rectangle through the opening and press until the Front lays smooth and flat. Pin.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Rectangle in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will keep the seam allowance in place and can be especially helpful if you are using a heavy weight or faux leather fabric.

Place the zipper behind the opening created. Pin.

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting while sewing, apply washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

Topstitch around the opening using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Stitch slowly over the zipper teeth.

NOTE – Check you have stitched the little triangles at the end of the Rectangle when topstitching.

If needed, trim the zipper tails.

Turn the Main Front wrong side facing up. Place the Zipper Pocket piece right side down matching the bottom short edge to the bottom long edge of the Rectangle piece. Pin.

NOTE – You are only pinning the Zipper Pocket and Zipper Pocket Rectangle pieces together.

Stitch the pinned edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Only sew the Pocket pieces together. Check to be sure the Main Front hasn’t been caught in the stitching.

Flip the Pocket down. Place the other short edge of the Zipper Pocket onto the top long edge of the Rectangle, right side down. Pin.

Pin the side edges of the Pocket together.

Stitch the pinned edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are only sewing the Pocket pieces together. Check you have not caught the Main Front into the stitching.

OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edges of the Pocket using a serger or zigzag/overlock stitch on a regular machine.

If you are adding a Zipper Pocket to the Back, repeat steps 18.1 to 18.12 to attach the Pocket to the Main Back.

Skip to step 19 for OPTIONAL Inner Pockets.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

There are two OPTIONS to choose from – Phone Pocket, a bigger one and a Cards/Lipstick Pocket. You can also add any kind of Pocket you desire by creating your own pocket pattern piece and following the steps bellow.

Either pocket option can be added to one or both Bag Lining pieces.

If making the Phone Pocket start at step 19.1. If making the Cards/Lipstick Pocket, skip to step 19.9.

Fold the Pocket in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch along the raw edge using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2 to 3 inch gap along the bottom edge for turning.

Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn the Phone Pocket right sides out.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Press the Pocket.

TIP – Make sure the seam allowance for the gap left for turning is fully inside the Pocket, creating a smooth line along the bottom edge.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the folded top edge using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Lay the Bag Lining right sides up. Find the center of both the Bag Lining and Phone Pocket. Measure 3 inches down from the top edge of the Bag Lining.

Place the Phone Pocket onto the Bag Lining, matching centers (horizontal and vertical). Pin along the sides and bottom.

Topstitch around both sides and the bottom edge, using ⅛ seam allowance, enclosing the gap left for turning.

Repeat steps 19.1 to 19.8 if adding a Slat Pocket to the other Bag Lining piece.

Lay the Bag Lining right sides up. Find the center of both the Bag Lining and Slat Pocket. Measure 4 inches down from the top edge of the Bag Lining.

Place the Slat Pocket onto the Bag Lining, matching centers, and the top of the Slat Pocket to the marking. Pin along the sides and bottom.

Topstitch around both sides and the bottom edge, using ⅛ seam allowance, enclosing the gap left for turning.

Mark your preferred Slat Pocket widths. Pin in place.

NOTE – For the tutorial purposes, we created two “lipstick sized widths” with a Large Slat Pocket.

This is just an example of the size and widths that could be created.

Skip to step 20 to continue construction of the purse.

Place the Zipper right side facing up, and lay the Main Top Side on top, right side facing down. Pin.

NOTE – The zipper teeth should start ½ inch from the edge.

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

Using a zipper foot, or a regular foot with the needle in the left position and the edge of the foot against the teeth, stitch along the zipper tape, using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 20.1 to 20.2 to attach the other Main Top Side piece to the other side of the zipper.

NOTE – If your zipper is longer than the Top Side pieces, trim it so that it is the same size. Use a bar tack at the end to create a new zipper stop.

This will now be your Main Top Piece.

Fold a D-Ring Tab in half lengthwise right sides together and pin the long edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn your D-Ring Tab right way out and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch one or both long sides of the D-Ring Tab using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Thread the D-Ring Tab through your D-ring. Fold it in half. Pin.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch close to the D-ring to keep it in place.

Repeat steps 21.1 to 21.6 for the second D-Ring Tab.

Center the D-ring Tabs onto the Top Main piece, right sides facing upwards. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 21.7 to 21.8 for the second D-Ring Tab for the other side of the Zipper.

Place a Main Bottom Piece and the Main Top Piece right sides together. Pin one side at the short edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 22.1 to 22.2 to attach the other side of the Top and Bottom pieces together, until you have one piece. We will call it the side piece from this point.

Find and mark the center on both raw edges of the Main Top and Main Bottom.

Find and mark the quarter parts of Front and Back Pieces.

NOTE – Mark the quarter points with pins or make small snips.

NOTE – The pictures used are from a different pattern, however, the techniques are the same.

Place the Front piece onto the Side piece right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.

NOTE – Check that the D-Ring Tabs are out of the way so that they do not get stitched into the seam.

Ease it all around and add as many pins as desired.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Open the zipper on the Side piece. You will need this opening for turning the purse.

Repeat steps 22.5 to 22.7 to attach the other side of the Side piece to the Main Front.

NOTE – Check you are attaching the Side piece the right way around. If you have added the Outer Pocket, you want to make sure the top of the pocket is facing up.

Clip into the curved edges, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Press Fold the Bottom Side Lining ¼ inch to the wrong side on both long sides. Press to create a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Lining. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when stitching it together.

Press the long edges on both sides of the Top Side Lining ½ inch to the wrong side. This will make it easier to slipstitch to the purse later on.

Repeat steps 22.1 to 22.4 with the lining pieces.

Repeat steps 22.5 to 22.7 to stich the lining Front to the Lining Side.

Repeat step 23.3 to stich the other side of Lining.

Clip into the curved edges, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn the Lining wrong side out. Drop the Purse Lining inside the Main Purse, wrong sides together, matching opening centers. Pin.

NOTE – The pictures used are from a different pattern, however, the techniques are the same.

Continue pinning along the zipper tape, easing the pieces together.

Topstitch along the memory hem, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

If using webbing instead of a fabric strap, skip to step 26.

Fold the Long Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin one short edge and the long raw edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are leaving one short edge unstitched for turning.

Turn your Handle right way out. If you have a preferred method to do this, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Open the seam allowance stitched in step 3.2. Insert the top of the chopstick to the stitching. Push the Handle over the chopstick, pushing it all the way over the chopstick, until it is turned right side out. Push the chopstick back out through the gap.

Press.

Topstitch each long edge using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

OPTIONAL – Stitch additional rows of topstitching as you prefer.

These steps are shown with a fabric strap. If you prefer to use webbing, please cut to length and follow the steps below.

Thread the end of the strap through the D-Ring. Fold the short edge ½”. Fold it another ½ “.

Pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Thread the strap through each side of the slider.

Thread the other end of the strap through the opposite D-Ring.

Then thread it back through both side of the slider.

Fold the end of the webbing over by ½ inch. Then again by ½ inch.

Flip it over the slider.

Pin or clip in place.

Stitch along the folded edge.

Your Magical Round Purse is finished!