Marilyn Halter Neck Dress

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk. Transfer where the zipper will end on the Back Skirt center back seams.

OPTIONAL Interfacing

If you are adding Interfacing as an alternative to Interlining, use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply iron-on interfacing to the Bodice Lining, Front and Back Bands.

Stay stitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the waist panels won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Stay stitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stay stitch the Front Skirt at the waist, starting at the center, stitching out towards each side seam, in the direction of the arrows.

Stay stitch the Back Skirt pieces at the waist following the direction of the arrows.

Stay stitch the Main Bodice (x2) and Bodice Lining (x2) pieces along the neckline and armscye, in the direction of the arrows.

TIP – Use a steam iron to press the stitching flat if you get small ripples along the stitching.

Skip to step 3 if you aren’t adding interlining to the Bodice and Band. Follow the step below to add interlining.

Interlining is a sturdy fabric that is constructed of compactly woven herringbone twill. It is used to provide structure and support in garments such as ball gowns and corsets.

Place the Lining Back Band and the Interlining Back Band, wrong sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Back Band is shaped slightly differently than pictured. However, the process is the same.

Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 for the other Back Band, the Front Band, and each Bodice piece.

Place the Main Bodice and the Bodice Lining right sides together. Pin together along the neckline.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Clip the seam allowance along the curve, getting close to the stitches without cutting through them.

NOTE – Clipping the seam allowance reduces the amount of fabric in the seam at the curve and allows the fabric to move so the seam will lay flat.

Open the Main and Lining Bodice piece so it lays flat. Press the seam allowance towards the Bodice Lining.

Understitch the seam allowance to the Bodice Lining. 

Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the Bodice. 

NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Lining approximately ¼ to ⅛ inch from where the Bodice Lining and Main Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the Bodice Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. 

Close the Bodice piece so it is wrong sides together. Press.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.6 for the other Main Bodice and Bodice Lining pieces.

Open the Bodice, then align the Tie right sides together with the top of the Main Bodice and the Lining Bodice. Pin. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Press the seam allowance open.

TIP – If you have added interfacing or Interlining, you may find the shoulder seam is a bit bulky when sewing the Bodice and Ties together. Trim the seam allowance of the shoulder seam to help it to lay flat and reduce bulk.

Fold the Tie in half, right sides together. Pin along the top edge and down the Tie. 

Continue pinning the Main Bodice and Main Lining together along the armscye. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the corners of the Tie to reduce bulk. 

Clip the seam allowance along the armscye curve, snipping close to the stitches without cutting through them.

NOTE – You only need to clip along the curved armscye, not the Tie.

Reach inside the Bodice from the underbust edge and pull the Tie down, pulling the Bodice right sides out. 

Press.

TIP – Use an EZ point and turner tool as shown, or your preferred tool to turn the Bodice out.

TIP – Push the corners and edges out with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that they are crisp, and the corners are pointy.

Understitch the seam allowance to the Bodice Lining as far up as possible.

Baste the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining together at the underbust seam.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.10 with the other Bodice and Tie.

To help with this, we have made a short video. Read through the steps below, then watch the video here.

Place a Bodice piece right side up, with the underbust edge at the top. 

You will start with the pleat closest to the neckline. 

Take the first pleat and fold it, right sides together, so that it is flush with the straight edge. Pin. 

Fold the Bodice back over, wrong sides together. This will create a straight line along the first pleat, with the notch matching the fold of the pleat. Pin.

Repeat step 5.1 with the second and third pleat indentation, creating a second pleat.

Repeat step 5.1 folding the underbust edge to the third pleat indentation, to create the third pleat.

Baste along the bottom of the pleats using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Check that the seam is straight, and the pleats are angled.

NOTE – Normally you baste inside the seam allowance, however for these pleats it is important to baste at ½ inch to ensure that the pleats lay correctly.

NOTE – We do not recommend pressing the pleats flat as they are designed to cup your bust. If you feel you need to, you can press the top of the pleats, then just steam the full pleats. This will ensure that it still drapes and does not sit flat.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 for the other Bodice piece.

Place the right Bodice over the left Bodice, matching the neckline edge of the right with the first pleat of the left. Pin.

Baste together using ⅛ seam allowance.

Place a Main Back Band onto the Main Front Band, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Check that you are attaching the Front and Back Band pieces the correct way. Both are labelled top and bottom. As the pieces are not quite rectangular in shape it is important to make sure you have them oriented correctly when stitching them together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the seam allowance on the side seam along the curve, getting close to the stitches without cutting through them.

Press the seam allowance open.

NOTE – The Band is shaped slightly differently than pictured, and the seams will be clipped for the curve. However, the process is the same.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.4 to attach the other Main Back Band to the other side of the Main Front Band.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.4 to attach the Back and Front Band Lining pieces together.

Place the Bodice onto the main Band, right sides together. Pin.

TIP – Check to make sure that everything is lined up correctly before basting together in the next step. 

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Check that the Bodice back edges are correctly lined up after basting to the Band to ensure that Bodice is not extending past the Band zipper/seam allowance. 

Place the Band Lining onto the Bodice, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Bodice will be sandwiched in between the main and lining Bands.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Band down so that it is right side out and press the seam allowance down.

Pull out any visible basting stitches.  

Fold the bottom hem of the Band Lining ½ inch to the wrong side and press. This will create a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. The lining of the Band will enclose the Skirt and hide all raw edges once stitched.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge each of the Back Skirts right sides together to the Front Skirt along the side seams. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. 

With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin one of the Back Skirts to the Front Skirt along the side seam. 

Stitch together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half.

TIP – Trimming helps hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. This gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Stitch again a ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Press the seam allowance to the back.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to stitch the other Back Skirt to the Front Skirt at the other side seam.

If you are doing Pockets, follow along below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, align the Pocket to the top edge and the side seam of the Skirt then serge the Pocket right sides together to each Skirt side seam. Do step 8.5 to clip the seam allowance flat. Press the seam allowance towards the Pocket. Place the Front and Back Skirt pieces together and serge each side seam including around the Pocket using a ½ inch seam allowance. Stitch the corners of the Pockets on a regular machine. Then skip to step 9. NOTE – You might need to use a regular sewing machine to stitch the sharp angle beneath the Pocket.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. 

We are going to do a French seam to attach the Pockets to the Skirt.

Place a Pocket piece wrong sides together (right sides out) with one side of the Front Skirt so that the top edge of the Pocket lines up with the top of the Skirt.

Stitch the edge of the Pocket to the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – The Pocket is shaped slightly differently than pictured. However, the process is the same.

Trim the seam allowance in half along the Pocket section of the raw edge only. DO NOT trim all the way down the garment side seam.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Open the Pocket up and press the seam allowance towards the Pocket. 

Flip the Pocket over so the right sides are together and press well along the seam, making sure that the same line is at the exact center of the fold.

Stitch again along the edge of the Pocket with a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

There will now be a little fold on the bottom of the Pocket.

Snip this piece parallel to the bottom of the Pocket, and even with the edge, so that the fabric will lay flat. Don’t cut past the Pocket. 

Flip the Pocket over and press the seam well.
TIP – Edge stitch along the Pocket and Skirt seam. This will catch the seam allowance, so it all lays flat in the finished garment. To do this, keep the pocket piece flipped away from the skirt. Edge stitch between ⅛ and ¼ inch from the seam line.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 for the other four Pocket pieces, so that there is a Pocket attached to each side of the Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces. 

NOTE – Check that each Pocket lines up with each other on the Front and Back.

Once you have the Pockets attached to the Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces, we will put it all together. 

Place the Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces wrong sides together, matching up the Pockets and the top and bottom of your Skirt pieces. Pin.

Starting at the top of the Pocket, stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.  Continue stitching until you reach the Skirt. 

Put the needle down into the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot so you are facing down the Skirt, drop the presser foot, and continue stitching down the Skirt, still sewing with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances in half to neaten.

Flip the garment so that the right sides are now together. Press well, ensuring the seam allowances are at the exact center of the folds. Again, match up the tops and bottoms of the garment and the pockets.

TIP – After turning through, if the seam allowance doesn’t sit flat at the corner where the Pocket meets the garment, turn it back the right way out, snip into the seam allowance towards the seam and then try again.

Press the Pockets and seam towards the front.

Repeat steps 8.7 to 8.10 on the other side seam.

For each side seam, sew down the Pocket using a ¼ inch seam allowance, pivoting around the Pocket and back down the side seam. 

Open up the Skirt, wrong sides facing up. Lay the Pocket against the Skirt matching the waist of the Skirt with the Pocket raw edges. 

Baste using ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Repeat for the other Pocket.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Main Bodice and the Skirt right sides together and pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 10.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Lay your Skirt piece right sides up. Open your Bodice flat, wrong sides facing up. Place the Main Band onto the Skirt, right sides together, matching raw edges and side seams.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the Skirt waist raw edges up towards the Bodice.

FIT CHECK – We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the Bodice.

• If you measure at the top of your size range, the dress should fit exactly. 
• If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the back seam before continuing. 
• We recommend trying the dress on now and pinning the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. 
• If it fits as you wish, continue. 
• If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zipper. If you use a regular zipper, or don’t install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished bodice will be too big. To help with this, we’ve made a short video. 

Read through the steps below, then watch the video here. 

Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge both back edges of the center Back Skirt. Do not remove any seam allowance, just serge to finish. Then continue with step 10.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

Unzip the invisible zipper. Place it teeth face down onto your ironing board. 

When the zipper is closed, the teeth of the zipper will curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew. 

I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat. 

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zip a little to make it easier to attach.

Press the ½ inch seam allowance along each raw edge of the Band and Skirt.

Unfold the seam allowance. With the dress right side up, place the zipper with the teeth side down onto the dress.

Line the zipper teeth up with the folded seam allowance so that the zipper stop is lined up with the top of the Band seam. Pin the left side of the zipper to the dress.

TIP – Take a moment to check that the zipper and dress are placed right sides together and that the zipper is on the correct side of the dress.

TIP – Add Wonder Tape to the zipper instead of using pins. This will help hold it in place.

Shorten the zipper if necessary, to match the recommended zipper length. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop it from opening below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zipper to the other. 

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – Line up the zipper teeth on the left side groove of the foot. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down. 

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – Stitch the zipper to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down.

Close the zipper and place a pin on the right zipper tape where the bottom of the stitching is. This pin will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when the right side of the dress is sewn.

Repeat steps 10.3 to 10.4 with the right side of the zipper tape on the right side of the dress.

It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards.

Fold the top of the zipper down on each side and hand stitch in place.

TIP – If the zipper is longer than needed, hand sew around the zipper to make a new zipper stop. Then trim the zipper down to the length needed.

TIP – Check your zipper can close correctly before continuing onto the next step.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 11.1. Place the Skirt right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back to close the skirt under the zipper. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do a French seam to stitch the Skirt together below the zipper. It’s slightly different than the previous French seam as the seam allowance below the zipper must be detached. Follow along below.

Clip into each side of the seam allowance, just below where the zipper stitching ends. 

TIP – Clip as close to the stitching and fold as possible without cutting into it. Aim for approximately ⅛ inch / 1-2 mm below the stitching and snip approximately ⅛ inch / 1-2 mm away from the fold. If the snip is too far, there will be a hole under the zipper, so err on the side of caution. If the seam isn’t lying flat, it can be snipped more.

Place the wrong sides of the skirt together and bring the seam allowance to the right side of the Skirt. Pin them together making sure the wrong sides are together and the right sides are facing outwards.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – The seams are trimmed here so that when they are encased in the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the Skirt wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so the edges can’t be seen (a French seam). 

TIP – Start stitching as close to the bottom of the zipper stitching as possible. The goal is to make the seam look continuous from the zipper to the hem when the garment is being worn. A zipper foot will allow the stitches to get really close to the bottom of the zipper. 

You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind the zipper edges that will not be hidden in the Band. This method uses bias tape to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. 

This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below. 

Align bias binding with the raw edge of the zipper.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Check that you are only stitching through the binding and the zipper, not through your Skirt.

Press bias binding away from the zipper.

Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance, encasing the seam. Press and pin.

Stitch in the ditch. 

If you haven’t done this before, stitching in the ditch is when you sew exactly on top of a previous seam. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment and you will catch the other side of the binding in your stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden.

Trim the seam allowance. Press away from the zipper.

Repeat steps 11.7 to 11.11 for the other raw edge of the zipper and across the bottom raw edge. 

Flip your Band Lining back down over the top of your bodice so right sides are facing together. You will be sandwiching the zipper between the Band and the lining. 

Pin.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching ¼ inch in from the raw edge. Remember to keep the Band Lining waist memory hem folded up and check that the Skirt waist seam allowance is folded up towards the Band. Be careful not to sew over the zipper teeth. 

Repeat for the opposite side of the Band. 

Turn the Band Lining over to the inside of your dress. Your Band Lining seams will now be enclosed. 

Lay your Dress wrong side facing up. 

Pin along the Band Lining memory hem, enclosing the raw edges of the Skirt seam. 

If using a sewing machine for this step, pin from the right side of the garment, directly on top of the seam between the Band and Skirt, then skip to step 12.6. 

If you are going to hand sew the lining to the dress, pin from the wrong side of the garment and continue to step 12.4.

HAND STITCHING: Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Band Lining to the Skirt seam allowance. Your fabric will be folded under ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.

NOTE – The images shown are to illustrate how to complete this step. The dress in the photos is open at the back, however your Bodice will be closed after you’ve inserted the invisible zip in step 11 above.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the skirt to outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch. 

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

Skip to step 13 for a regular hem, step 14 for horsehair braid hem or step 15 for blind stitch hem.

MACHINE STITCHING: If you are machine stitching this step, place the garment in your sewing machine with the right side facing upwards (lining underneath). 

Line the seam where the Band meets the Skirt up with the needle.

Press the seam open and carefully stitch directly on top of this seam. This is called “stitching in the ditch” and the aim is as invisible seam as possible.

If you would prefer a horsehair braid hem skip to step 14 or skip to step 15 for a blind stitch hem. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge along the bottom edge. Do not remove any fabric.  Press 1 inch to the wrong side. Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the serged edge.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Your Marilyn is now finished!

Adding horsehair braid will add structure to your hemline. If you are not adding optional horsehair braid and would prefer a blind stitch hem, skip to step 15.

Lay the Skirt right sides facing up. Match the horsehair braid edge to the raw edge of the Skirt.

Pin in place.

Topstitch along the bottom raw edge as close to the edge of the horsehair as possible.

Fold the hem by the width of the horsehair braid over to the wrong side. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the edge of the fabric.

Your Marilyn is now finished!

As your hem will be almost invisible, this hemming option will give your dress a professional finish. A blind hem can be sewn by hand, or by machine, if your machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot. Follow below to stitch by machine.

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Fold the hem under the fabric (towards the right side), so that just ¼ inch of the hem is showing. Pin.

Slide the fabric under the foot with the folded edge resting against the inside edge of the right side of the foot. 

With the blind hem stitch selected, start stitching, keeping the fold in line with the inside edge of the foot.

NOTE – Line up the hem, so when the needle moves to the left, it is able to just catch a thread or two of the Skirt fabric.  

TIP – This stitch is best done with thread that matches the fabric very closely, with a fresh, sharp needle. It is very helpful to practice this technique on scrap fabric before attempting it on your gorgeous skirt.

Your Marilyn is now finished!