Pajama Teddy Bear

We recommend using embroidery floss for these hand stitches. Use two strands from a six-strand embroidery floss so when both strands are threaded through the needle and folded over, the two strands will become 4 strands.

Satin stitches are flat stitches used to fill in a shape with smooth straight stitches giving a satin-like look.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric piece.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Stitch around the entire shape, following the ‘Backstitch’ directions below, creating an outline.

Bring the needle to the right side of the fabric at the outer edge of the stitching done in step 1.2 near the middle of your shape.

Move the needle across the shape, pushing the needle down through the fabric on the outside of the shape.

NOTE – A Satin Stitch can be stitched straight across or on an angle which gives a different look to the stitches.

NOTE – As you form the stitches, make sure not to twist the strands so the strands stay flat.

Bring the needle back to the right side next to the first stitch. Push the needle back down next to the first stich at the outer edge of the stitching from step 1.2.

TIP – The stitches should always begin on one side of the shape and end on the other side. Although it is tempting to save thread by starting the next stitch next to a completed stitch, this creates gaps instead of a solid satin look.

Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.5 stitching along one side of the shape.

Bring the needle back to the first stitch. Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.6 to complete the opposite side of the shape.

Backstitches are used for outlining or adding fine detail.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.

Push the needle back into the same hole as step 2.2, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.

Repeat steps 2.2 to 2.4 creating a length of backstitches as desired.

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing

You can add Fusible Webbing for the Inner Ears and Nose.

Trace the pattern pieces for the details you are using onto the backing of your fusible webbing. Write what each piece is on the paper side of the fusible webbing.

NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored).

Cut roughly around the fusible webbing for each pattern piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the fusible webbing has been attached to the fabric.

Apply the fusible webbing to your fabric pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using fusible webbing.

Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.

Place each Inner Ear onto the Outer Ear at the pattern markings. Press.

NOTE – Do not press the Nose onto the Muzzle yet. This will be done later on. Set it aside for now.

Darts

The construction of these darts are very similar to those of a garment, so if you have a preferred method of stitching darts, do this now. Otherwise, follow below:

Place the Body pattern piece on top of the Body piece, lining it up accurately. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the waist dart, making sure it goes firmly into the fabric.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep the pins in place. Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. Lift the pattern piece out of the way, leaving the three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

Draw the dart in between the corner point using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Remove the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of the dart and press.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead, leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.

Press the dart toward the side seam.

Repeat for the other three waist darts and for the Muzzle dart.

If you have not added OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing, place the Inner Ear onto the Outer Ear at the pattern markings. Pin.

Stitch around the Inner Ear using a zigzag stitch or blanket stitch.

Place a second Outer Ear on top, right sides together. Pin along the curved edge.

NOTE – If you added OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing, check that you are attaching a plain Outer Ear, and not one with an attached Inner Ear. Do not attach two of the same together.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving the bottom straight edge open for turning through.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn right side out and press.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the second Ear.

Lay a Head right side up. Place each Ear at the pattern markings, right sides together, matching the center of the Ear to the raw edge. Pin.

NOTE – The Inner Ear will be facing right sides onto the Head.

TIP – Trim the corners of the Ears, so that it is easier to stitch along the curve.

Baste using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

NOTE – This will be the Front Head.

Place the Nose onto the Muzzle at the pattern marking above the dart. Pin.

If you added OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing onto the Nose, press the Nose in place.

The Nose will be attached using backstitches.

Thread a needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Backstitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider the Nose onto the Muzzle.

Finish your stitch on the wrong side, make a knot and cut the thread.

Repeat step 2.2 to hand stitch the mouth using  backstitches, at the pattern markings.

Fold the Muzzle outer edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Lay the Front Head right side up. Place the Muzzle at the pattern markings. Pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, stitching three quarters of the way round. Stop stitching and put the needle down.

Push some stuffing into the Muzzle.

TIP – Push the stuffing over to the stitched side, so the foot will have enough space while stitching the Muzzle closed.

Continue stitching to close the gap. Move the stuffing around until the Muzzle is evenly stuffed.

If you are adding  OPTIONAL Safety Eyes, follow below. If you are embroidering the Eyes, skip to step 2.10.

OPTIONAL Safety Eyes – Attach the safety eyes at the pattern markings, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Skip to step 2.11.

OPTIONAL Embroidered Eyes – Thread a needle with contrasting thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

Follow the ‘Satin Stitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider both eyes at the pattern markings.

Place the Back Head piece to the Front Head right sides together. Pin along the outer curved edge, sandwiching the Ears.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance leaving the bottom straight edge open for turning through.

Clip into the seam allowance to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Place two mirror Arm pieces right sides together. Pin along the outer curved edge.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance leaving the top edge open for turning.

TIP – For added strength, stitch over the previous stitch line using a longer length stitch.

Clip into the curved edges, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn the Arm right side out.

Push some stuffing inside the Arm.

TIP – Use a blunt object e.g. a chopstick to help push the stuffing inside.

TIP – If you do not have stuffing, you can tear some batting into small pieces and use this instead.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 to create the second Arm.

Fold a Leg in half right sides together. Pin the outer curved edges.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance leaving the top edge open for turning through.

Find and mark the center of a Sole.

Place the Sole onto the larger opening of the Leg right sides together, matching the centers of the Sole to seam and the fold line. Pin.

Continue pinning together.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you have trouble pinning these small pieces together, pin at the centers only. Start stitching slowly, easing the two pieces together.

Clip into the seam allowance to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn the Leg right side out.

Push some stuffing inside the Leg.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.8 to create the second Leg.

Place the Tail pieces right sides together. Pin along the outer curved edges.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving the short straight edge open for turning through.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn the Tail right side out.

OPTIONAL – Add a little bit of stuffing into the Tail.

Lay a Back piece (left or right) right side facing up. Place the Tail down at the pattern markings, right sides together. Pin.

Baste using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Tummy, follow below.  If you are not  adding the OPTIONAL Tummy, skip to step 7.

If you are not adding OPTIONAL Letters to the Tummy, skip to step 6.2. If you are adding OPTIONAL Letters to the Tummy, follow below.

OPTIONAL Letters – Use a fabric marker to draw letters onto the right side of the Tummy. Then, skip to step 6.2.

Alternatively, you can stitch the letters on using your sewing machine or by hand stitching. Use a disappearing ink pen to draw on your letters.

Machine stitching – Stitch straight lines to create each letter onto the right side of the Tummy. Skip to step 6.2.

Hand stitching – Follow the ‘Backstitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above to embroider each letter onto the right side of the Tummy.

Finish your stitch on the wrong side, make a knot and cut the thread.

Fold the outer edge of the Tummy ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press, creating a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Tummy. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when stitching it onto the Body.

Place the two Front pieces right sides together. Pin the center front.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press the seam to the side.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Tummy, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Tummy, skip to step 7.5.

OPTIONAL Tummy – Lay the Front right side up. Place the Tummy at the pattern markings, right side facing up. Pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Alternatively, you can use decorative or zigzag stitching.

Place each Arm at the pattern markings on the Front, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The longer straight edge is the top of the Arm.

Place each Leg at the pattern markings on the Front, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Check your Legs are facing the right direction.

Baste the Arms and Legs using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Place the Back pieces right sides together. Pin the straight edges on either side of the pattern markings.

NOTE – Do not pin in between the markings as this is the opening for the zipper.

Stitch on either side of the pattern markings, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Backstitch a few times at the zipper opening.

Place the Front and Back right sides together. Pin the outer curved edges.

NOTE – Check that the Arms and Legs are out of the way.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving the neckline open.

Place the Head inside the Body right sides together at the neckline, matching side seams. Pin.

NOTE – Check that the face is facing the front of the bear.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Do not stitch the neckline closed. You are stitching around the neckline, stitching the Head to the Body.

Turn the Teddy Bear right side out.

Fold each side of the back opening ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press, creating a memory hem.

TIP – If you are working with furry fabric, pin the folded edge instead of pressing. Trim the fabric. This will make it easier when attaching the zipper.

Find and mark the center of the shorter edge of the Bag and the zipper.

Lay the Bag right side up. Place the zipper on top, right side facing up, matching centers. Pin.

Using a zipper foot of your machine, stitch the zipper using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 8.2 to 8.3 to attach the other side of the zipper to the other side of the Bag.

Find and mark the center of the longer edge of the Bag.

Flatten the Bag, matching the center points to the center of the zipper. Pin.

Continue pinning the raw edges.

Stitch both sides using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – To protect your needle, stitch slowly when you stitch over the zipper.

NOTE – If your zipper is too long, trim it now.

Push some stuffing inside the Head.

Continue adding stuffing until you have your desired effect.

Also push some stuffing into the Body.

NOTE – Do not overstuff as you will be adding the Bag.

TIP – To check if you need to add or take out stuffing, place the PJs inside the Bag and place the Bag inside the Teddy Bear. For smaller sized PJs you will need more stuffing than for larger sizes PJs.

Place stuffing onto the sides, at the bottom and into the neck. Use a bit more stuffing at the neck to support the Head.

TIP – For the neck I used rolled up batting.

Open the zipper of the Bag. Place the Bag inside the opening, wrong sides together. Pin each side of the zipper to the folded edge.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the zipper to the opening.

You will be stitching along the memory hem.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.

Push your needle up from the inside of the bear to the outside, through the fold, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the zip and the back.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Bows or Scarf, your Pajama Teddy Bear is finished!

If you are adding either or both OPTIONAL Bows, follow below. If you are only adding the OPTIONAL Scarf, skip to step 11.

This step is the same for the Head Bow or Bow Tie.

Fold the Bow in half widthwise, right sides together. Pin all raw edges.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving a 1 inch gap on the long edge open for turning.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn the Bow right side out and press.

Repeat step 9.5 to slipstitch the gap closed, stitching along the folded edge.

Fold both long edges of the Bow towards the center. This will help create the perfect Bow.

Fold the Bow in half, pinching it in the middle.

Hand stitch through the center of the Bow to keep it in place.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.8 if you are sewing a second Bow.

NOTE – For the Bow Tie, do not cut the thread. Skip to step 10.9.

OPTIONAL Head Bow – Hand stitch the Bow to the head of your Teddy Bear as desired.

If you are not adding a Bow Tie, your Pajama Teddy Bear is finished!

OPTIONAL Bow Tie – Place the cord elastic around the neck of the Teddy Bear. Cut to length. It shouldn’t be taut, but needs to stretch enough to be able to take it off.

Knot the ends of the elastic together.

Hand stitch the Bow Tie to the elastic next to the knot.

Place the Bow Tie around the neck of the Teddy Bear.

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Scarf, your Pajama Teddy Bear is finished!

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Scarf, follow below.

Using a disappearing ink pen, draw lines ¾ inches long and ¼ inch apart on one short side. Cut along these lines to create the fringe.

Repeat step 11.1 on the other short side.

Wrap the Scarf around the Teddy Bear’s neck.

TIP – If you are adding the Bow Tie and Scarf, we recommend taking off the Bow Tie when using the Scarf.

Your Pajama Teddy Bear is finished!