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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
4
Picnic Backpack
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
Explore the outdoors and picnic in style with this modern picnic backpack sewing pattern. Features padded straps, two insulated sections, many pockets and pouches for up to eight settings, and an optional blanket holder.
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- +Preparation
- Insul-Fleece Interfacing e.g. Pellon 975, Insul-Bright, or Insulated Interfacing/Insulated Batting. Approximately 2 yards will be sufficient. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider, you will need another 0.25 yard per divider (up to 2).
- Handle – 1x 8 inches long webbing
- Straps:
- Padding – You can use a wadding or even a fleece to pad the Straps. We have used a high-density foam slab. 0.75 yard will be sufficient
- 2x 7 inches long webbing
- NOTE – If a tighter fitting strap is desired, you will want a shorter length of webbing. We suggest starting with this length and adjusting during construction.
- Shoulder Strap Connector – 2x 18 inches long webbing
- NOTE – If a tighter fitting strap is desired, you will want a shorter length of webbing. We suggest starting with this length and adjusting during construction.
- 2x buckles OR slide adjusters – to fit width of webbing
- Zippers: Any style zipper can be used as desired. The following zippers were used in the tutorial.
- Front – 1x 58 inches double pull zipper
- Back – 1x 38 inches double pull zipper
- Front Top Pocket – 1x 15 inches zipper
- Front Bottom Pocket – 1x 22 inches zipper
- Side Pocket – 1x 5 inches zipper
- Back: Inside Bottom – 2 inches wide double fold bias binding cut into 2x 9 inches lengths
- NOTE – If buying bias binding, you will need ½ inch wide double fold bias binding.
- OPTIONAL Insulated Dividers – 1 inch wide hook & loop tape cut into a 14 inches length per divider. You can add up to two.
- OPTIONAL Plate Pouch:
- 0.5 yard Netting/Mesh
- 2 inches wide bias binding 19 inches long
- 2x 15 inches long webbing
- NOTE – If you are planning on using fewer than 8 plates or thinner plates and a tighter fitting strap is desired, you will want a shorter length of webbing. We suggest starting with this length and adjusting during construction.
- 1x buckles OR slide adjusters – to fit width of webbing
- OPTIONAL Inner Zipper Pocket:
- 1x 15 inches long zipper
- 2 inches wide bias binding – approximately 1 yard
- NOTE – If buying bias binding, you will need ½ inch wide double fold bias binding.
- OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch webbing:
- 1x 10 inches long
- 1x 12 inches long
- 1x buckle OR slide adjuster – to fit width of webbing
- OPTIONAL Wine Glass storage – 2 inches wide elastic x 26-inches long
- OPTIONAL Accessory elastic for salt/pepper/bottle opener/cheese knife/etc – 1 inch wide cut into 5x 3 inches lengths
- OPTIONAL Cutlery Holder – 1 inch wide elastic, 15 inches long
- OPTIONAL Blanket Holder – 1 inch wide elastic cut into 4x 3 inches lengths
- OPTIONAL Side straps –
- 4 x 15 inches long pieces of webbing
- 2x buckles – width to fit webbing
- Thread to match
- Back: Upper – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back: Lower – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back: Side – Fabric cut 2 on fold, Lining cut 2 on fold, Insulated Interfacing cut 2 on fold at inner line
- Bottom – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, Insulated Interfacing cut 1 at inner line
- Shoulder Strap – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pair), Padding cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Strap Connector – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pair), Padding cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Strap Connector webbing cut 2 (see cut chart above)
- Strap webbing cut 2 (see cut chart above)
- Handle – cut 1 webbing (see cut chart above)
- Front: Top Pocket:
- Upper – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lower – Fabric cut 1
- Lining – Lining cut 1
- Front: Bottom Pocket
- Upper – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Lower – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Back – Lining cut 1
- Front: Side – Fabric cut 2 on fold, Lining cut 2 on fold, Insulated Interfacing cut 2 on fold at inner line
- Front: Inside – Lining cut 2 on fold, Insulated Interfacing cut 3 on fold
- OPTIONAL Inner Pocket
- Upper – Lining cut 1
- Lower – Lining cut 1
- Binding cut 2 as per instructions in step 3
- OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch – Lining cut 1
- Elastic cut 1 (see cut chart above)
- OPTIONAL Plate Pouch – Netting/Mesh cut 1
- Binding cut 1 (see cut chart above)
- Webbing cut 2 (see cut chart above)
- OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch – Lining cut 2
- Short Webbing cut 1 (see cut chart above)
- Long Webbing cut 1 (see cut chart above)
- OPTIONAL Wine Glass storage: Elastic cut 1 (see cut chart above)
- OPTIONAL Accessory elastic: Elastic cut 5 (see cut chart above)
- Back: Inside – Lining cut 2 on fold
- Back: Inside Bottom A – Lining cut 2, Insulated Interfacing cut 1 at inner line, Binding cut 2 (see cut chart above)
- Back: Inside Bottom B – Lining cut 2
- OPTIONAL Insulated Divider – Lining cut 2 per divider, Insulated Interfacing cut 1 per divider at inner line
- Hook and loop tape cut 1 per divider
- OPTIONAL Blanket Holder – Fabric cut 2, Elastic cut 4 (see cut chart above)
- Left Side – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, Insulated Interfacing cut 1 at inner line
- Right Side: Middle – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, Insulated Interfacing cut 1 at inner line
- Right Side: Bottom – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, Insulated Interfacing cut 2 at inner line
- OPTIONAL Side straps: Webbing cut 4 (see cut chart above)
Project OverviewModern Picnic Backpack
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
This backpack is the perfect holdall for your picnics, with a handle and padded straps. The outer front has two zipper pockets. The inside has two main insulated sections with an optional inner pocket, cutlery pouch, plate pouch for eight 10 inch plates, cheese board pouch for a 9 inch x 10 inch cheese board, elastic accessory holders for wine glasses, bottle opener and more, a bottle divider and a bottom pouch. There is also a zipper pocket at the bottom left side. You can add an optional blanket holder on the left side and optional adjustable straps to the right side. There is plenty of storage, with all the pockets and pouches to hold everything you need for a lovely picnic.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Bag
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Width
Height
Depth
ONE Size
14.0
20.0
8.0
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric – The exterior needs a heavy weight woven or non-stretch fabric such as canvas, duck, outdoor cloth, or upholstery fabric would work.
Lining Fabric – The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include quilting cotton, linen, broadcloth, or something similar.
OPTIONAL Interfacing – The recommended fabric is heavy weight woven, however if you are using a light to medium weight fabric for your main and lining you can add interfacing to all pieces for extra stability. The amount you need will depend on the pieces you are interfacing.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Picnic Backpack
3.00
3.25
OPTIONAL Insulated Divider
N/A
0.50
OPTIONAL Blanket Holder
0.25
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Picnic Backpack
2.00
2.50
OPTIONAL Insulated Divider
N/A
0.50
OPTIONAL Blanket Holder
0.25
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
NOTE – For webbing pieces you can use any width from ¾ to 1 ½ inches wide. Remember to use the same width buckles where needed.
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, zipper foot and optional washaway sewing tape. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Backpack Pages to print 2-7, 13-38, 43-46 OPTIONAL Plate Pouch Blanket Holder Insulated Divider Cutlery Pouch Inner Pocket Cheese Board Pages to print 10-12 40 28,39 41-42 7-9, 18-20 40 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Backpack Pages to print 2-7, 13-38, 43-44 OPTIONAL Plate Pouch Blanket Holder Insulated Divider Cutlery Pouch Inner Pocket Cheese Board Pages to print 10-12 40 28, 39 41-42 7-9, 18-20 40 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
NOTE – For webbing pieces you can use any width from ¾ to 1 ½ inches wide. Remember to use the same width buckles where needed. For the chart below a webbing width of 1 inch has been used.
TIP – As there are a lot of pattern pieces, we suggest labelling every pattern piece and corresponding fabric piece that is cut out.
TIP – Some of the pattern pieces have similar names i.e., Front: Top Pocket Upper, Front: Top Pocket Lower. We suggest labelling every pattern piece with letters or numbers i.e., Front: Top Pocket Upper = A, Front: Top Pocket Lower = B etc.
Width
Length
Back & Straps
Handle – Webbing cut 1
1.0
8.0
Back: Lower – Fabric cut 1
15.0
21.0
Back: Side
Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2
3.75
38.0
Insulated Interfacing cut 2
2.75
37.0
Bottom
Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
15.0
10.0
Insulated Interfacing cut 1
14.0
9.0
Strap Webbing
Strap connector cut 2
1.0
18.0
Strap webbing cut 2
1.0
7.0
Front
Front: Top Pocket Lower: Fabric cut 1
15.0
7.0
Front: Top Pocket Lining: Lining cut 1
15.0
12.5
Front: Bottom Pocket Lower – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
19.0
11.0
Front: Bottom Pocket Back – Lining cut 1
15.0
12.5
Front Side
Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2
2.0
58.0
Insulated Interfacing cut 2
1.0
57.0
Front Inside
OPTIONAL Inner Pocket:
Lower – Lining cut 1
10.0
6.0
Upper – Lining cut 1
12.0
2.0
Binding cut 2
2.0
N/A
OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch:
Fabric cut 2
10.0
6.0
Short Webbing cut 1
1.0
10.0
Long Webbing cut 1
1.0
12.0
OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch:
Lining cut 1
15.0
7.0
Elastic cut 1
1.0
15.0
OPTIONAL Plate Pouch:
Netting cut 1
19.0
9.0
Binding cut 1
2.0
19.0
Webbing cut 2
1.0
15.0
OPTIONAL Wine Glass storage: Elastic cut 1
2.0
26.0
OPTIONAL Accessory elastic: Elastic cut 5
1.0
3.0
Back Inside
Back: Inside Bottom A
Lining cut 2
15.0
7.0
Insulated Interfacing cut 1
14.0
6.0
Binding cut 2
2.0
9.0
Back: Inside Bottom B
Lining cut 2
15.0
9.0
OPTIONAL Insulated Divider:
Lining cut 2 per divider
6.0
15.0
Insulated Interfacing cut 1 per divider
4.0
14.0
Hook and loop tape cut 1 per divider
1.0
14.0
Left Side
Left Side
Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
7.0
11.5
Insulated Interfacing cut 1
6.0
10.5
OPTIONAL Blanket Holder:
Fabric cut 2
10.0
6.0
Elastic cut 4
1.0
3.0
Right Side
Right Side: Bottom
Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2
3.75
7.0
Insulated Interfacing cut 2
2.75
6.0
Right Side: Middle
Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
7.0
5.5
Insulated Interfacing cut 1
6.0
4.5
OPTIONAL Side straps: Webbing cut 4
1.0
15.0
Cutting checklist:
Back & Straps
The back has two straps which are connected to the side and are adjustable. There is a handle for carrying.
Front
The Front has two pockets.
The Top Pocket is about 6 inches tall – perfect for phones and quick access.
The Bottom Pocket is 2 inches deep and 10 inches tall. The bottom is pleated at each side. Perfect additional storage.
Front: Inside
This compartment is the inside on the front of the backpack made from the lining fabric. All accessory holders are optional.
There is an Inner Pocket at the top for napkins etc. Cutlery slides into the elastic that sits underneath this pocket, sitting into a Cutlery Pouch. You can add plates into the Plate Pouch which is tightened with an adjustable strap.
The other side holds additional picnic essentials. There is a row of elastic with four sections for wine glasses. Above that is a pouch for a cheese board with an adjustable strap to keep it in place. On both sides of the cheese board pouch there are four elastic sections to hold salt and pepper, bottle opener etc., with one additional elastic at the top.
Back: Inside
This compartment is the inside of the back of the backpack. It is a large compartment to hold food, wine etc. Add OPTIONAL Insulated Dividers to help separate and protect two bottles. The bottom section has a pouch for storage.
Left Side
Add the OPTIONAL Blanket Holder onto the left hand side, which is secured with elastic, meaning you can use different size blankets.
Right Side
You can add OPTIONAL buckle straps onto the right side which can be used for multiple purposes such as adding a second blanket.
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings
- OPTIONAL INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to wrong sides of pieces.
- OPTIONAL PLATE POUCH – Create box pleat using pattern markings. Baste. Repeat for second box pleat. Bind top edge of Plate Pouch. Trim ends of bias tape.
- OPTIONAL CUTLERY POUCH – Fold the Cutlery Pouch in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Turn and press.
- OPTIONAL INNER POCKET – Lay Inner Pocket Lower right side up, center zipper right side facing down. Stitch. Flip zipper right side up. Press. Press seam allowance in half, tuck under the zipper tape. From right side, pin the seam allowance. Topstitch. Repeat to attach the other side of zipper to the Inner Pocket Upper piece. Fold the bottom raw edge of the Inner Pocket Lower matching to the top raw edge of the Inner Pocket Upper with wrong sides together. Pin. Baste. Cut a piece of bias tape 2 inches longer than the Inner Pocket side. Open one end of the bias tape, fold to wrong side by approximately 1 inch. Press bias tape as per original folds. Bind sides of Inner Pocket. Trim ends of bias tape.
- OPTIONAL CHEESE BOARD POUCH – Place Cheese Board Pouch pieces right sides together. Pin. Stitch, leave 3-4 inch gap. Clip. Turn.
- FRONT: INSIDE CONSTRUCTION – Lay Front: Inside piece right side up. Lay the Inner Pocket, Plate Pouch, Cutlery Pouch, and elastic as desired. OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch: Place Cutlery Pouch onto the Front: Inside, right sides together matching raw edges. Pin. Slide one of the webbing pieces ½ inch under bottom edge of the Cutlery Pouch at the center. Pin. Stitch along the bottom long edge and both short sides of the Cutlery Pouch. Mark the Cutlery Pouch elastic into six even sections. Align raw edges of the elastic to raw edges of the Front: Inside piece. Pin side raw edges. Stitch. Stretch elastic slightly, stitch elastic at marked placements. OPTIONAL Plate Pouch: Place Plate Pouch at the bottom edge of the Front: Inside piece, matching raw edges. Pin. Place second webbing piece on top of the Plate Pouch, center along the bottom edge. Pin. Stitch around the sides and bottom of the Plate Pouch inside the seam allowance. Install the buckle body onto the webbing attached to the Cutlery Pouch. Slide the buckle latch onto the webbing attached to the Plate Pouch. Clip buckles. OPTIONAL Inner Pocket: Place the Inner Pocket onto the Front: Inside right side facing up, center with the raw edges matching. Pin. Stitch inside seam allowance. Lay second Front: Inside piece right side up. Lay the Cheese Board Pouch, and elastics as desired. OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch: Place the Cheese Board Pouch onto the Front: Inside, right sides facing up. Pin. Slide the shorter webbing piece inside the gap of the Cheese board Pouch. Pin. Stitch along the sides and bottom edges. Place the longer webbing at the center of the top edge of the Cheese Board Pouch, just underneath the top edge. Pin. Stitch. Flip the top webbing up. Pin. Stitch. Slide the top webbing through the buckle body. Fold webbing over itself by 2 inches. Pin. Stitch the webbing overlap with a 1 inch box. Slide the bottom webbing through the buckle latch of the adjustable buckle, fold the end of the webbing over by ½ inch. Then again by ½ inch. Pin. Stitch. Clip buckles. OPTIONAL Accessory Elastic: Place first elastic facing ½ inch from the edge of the Pouch. Pin. Stitch with zig zag stitch just outside the edge of the Pouch. Flip elastic over, match raw edge with raw edge of Front: Inside. Pin. Stitch. Repeat to attach remaining three pieces of elastic to the sides of Pouch. Place the edge of the elastic 2 inches from raw top center edge of the fabric. Pin. Stitch with zig zag stitch just outside the edge of the Pouch. Flip elastic over, match raw edge with raw edge of Front: Inside. Pin. Stitch. OPTIONAL Wine Glass Elastic: Divide wine glass elastic into quarters. Find and Mark the center of the Front: Inside piece. Mark 3 ½ inches on either side. Place raw edges of the wine glass elastic onto the Front: Inside, match raw edges and quarter points. Pin. Stitch along side seams. Stitch quarter markings.
- OPTIONAL INSULATED DIVIDER – Center the loop tape onto the Insulated Divider 1 inch from long edge. Pin. Stitch around. Lay Insulated Interfacing on the second Insulated Divider piece ½ inch from a long edge and both short edges. Pin. Baste along both long edges. Place both Insulated Divider pieces right sides together. Pin. Stitch around, leave a gap. Clip corners and seam allowances. Turn. Press. Topstitch. Stitch on top of the basting stitches. Remove visible basting stitches. Fold Insulated Divider along the stitching, loop tape facing out. Place the hook tape onto the Back: Inside piece. Pin. Stitch around. Attach the Insulated Divider onto the Back: Inside with hook and loop tape.
- BACK: INSIDE CONSTRUCTION – Center the Insulated Interfacing onto the wrong side of one of the Back: Inside Bottom A pieces. Place a second Back: Inside Bottom A on top with wrong sides together. Pin. Stitch around. Bind both short edges. Trim binding. Lay one Back: Inside piece right side up. Place the Back: Inside Bottom A piece. Right sides together along the bottom edge. Pin. Place one Back: Inside Bottom B piece right side down, matching the bottom edge. Pin. Stitch. Flip the pieces down. Press. Place the second Back: Inside piece right side facing up. Lay the Back: Inside piece right side down, with the loose Back: Inside Bottom B piece flipped up, right side facing up. Match the bottom edge of the second Back: Inside piece to the top edge of the insulated piece. Pin. Place the second Back: Inside Bottom B onto the insulated Back: Inside Bottom A, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press.
- LINING ASSEMBLY – Fold Front: Side Lining ½ inch to wrong side lengthwise. Press. Repeat with second Front: Side Lining, both Back: Side Lining pieces, and Right Side: Bottom Lining. Slide Front: Inside Insulated Interfacing under folded edge. Baste. Repeat with second Front: Side Lining piece. Lay the Right Side: Middle Lining right side up. Place a Right Side: Bottom Lining right side down at the top right corner, pressed edge facing in. Pin. Repeat with the second Right Side: Bottom Lining piece, place at the top left corner. Stitch. Press. Repeat to attach the other two Back: Side Lining pieces onto the other side. Lay the Left Side Lining right side up. Align the raw edges of the Back: Side Lining pieces with the short end of the Left Side Lining. Pin. Fold the Back: Side Lining pieces in half, mark center. Mark center of both Back: Inside pieces. Place Back: Side piece onto a Back: Inside piece right sides together, match centers. Pin. Stitch. Clip corners. Repeat to attach other edge of Back Lining to second Back: Inside piece. Pin left bound edge of insulated Back: Inside Bottom to the Left Side piece. Stitch. Repeat to attach the Front: Side pieces to the Front: Inside pieces. Place the Front: Inside onto the Back: Inside, right sides together. Pin. Stitch side seam to side seam. Clip seam allowance. Press seam allowance open. Open the Front: Inside pieces, right sides facing up. Align Bottom Lining right side down on the seam just pressed open, one long edge 3 inches from the seam. Pin. Stitch. Align a short side of the Bottom Lining piece onto the Front: Side and Back: Side pieces. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Match long bottom edge of the Bottom Lining piece onto the Back: Inside, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Repeat to attach the other short side of the Bottom Lining. Align the second Front: Inside piece to the remaining space on the short edge of the Bottom, leave a ½ inch gap for zipper. Repeat aligning a short edge to Bottom Lining to Front: Side and Back: Side pieces. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Match long bottom edge of the Bottom Lining piece onto the Back: Inside, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Repeat to attach the other short side of the Bottom Lining. Align the second Front: Inside piece to the remaining space on the short edge of the Bottom, leave a ½ inch gap for zipper. Open the Lining, separate Front and Back. Place insulated interfacing on the Back: Inside. Fold the back of the Front: Inside up over the top of the insulated interfacing. Match the Side pieces at seam allowance. Pin. Stitch one long edge. Repeat along the short edge and long edge.
- BACK & STRAPS – Lay a Strap Connector right sides up. Center one length of webbing on the short edge. Pin. Baste. Place the mirror image Strap Connector on top, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Turn. Press. Slide padding in between the Strap Connector pieces. Pin along the raw edges. Baste. Lay the Back: Lower right side up. Place the Strap Connector on top 1 inch from the bottom. Pin. Baste. Repeat for the second Strap connector. Lay a Shoulder Strap wrong side up. Place the padding down the middle. Pin. Baste. Turn the Shoulder Strap right side up, place the strap webbing at the bottom edge of the Shoulder Strap at the pattern marking. Pin. Place second Shoulder Strap right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Turn. Press. Pin top raw edge. Baste. Repeat for second Shoulder Strap. Find and Mark the center of the Back: Lower. Lay the Back: Lower right side up. Place the handle webbing on either side of the center. Pin. Place Shoulder Straps either side of handle. Pin. Baste. Place the Back: Upper onto the Back: Lower, right sides together, matching the straight edge. Pin. Stitch. Press. OPTIONAL topstitch. BUCKLE OPTION – Slide the top webbing through the buckle body. Fold webbing over itself by 2 inches. Pin. Stitch the webbing overlap with a 1 inch box. Slide the bottom webbing through the buckle latch of the adjustable buckle, Fold the end of the webbing over by ½ inch. Then again by ½ inch. Pin. Stitch. Clip buckles.
- OPTIONAL BLANKET HOLDER – Place the Blanket Holder pieces right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Slide one of the elastic pieces inside the two Blanket Holder pieces against the seam. Repeat for the second elastic against the other seam. Stitch. Clip. Repeat to add third and fourth piece of elastic to the other long edge. Stitch, leave gap. Clip. Turn. Press. Topstitch.
- FRONT – Lay the Front: Top Pocket Lower right side up. Place the zipper right side down along top edge. Pin. Place the Front: Top Pocket Lining, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Flip the Front: Top Pocket Lining over. Press. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Place Front: Top Pocket Upper onto the other side of the zipper right sides together. Pin. Bring the bottom raw edge of the Front: Top Pocket Lining, fold it up matching the other side of the zipper. Pin. Stitch. Press. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Trim ends of the zipper tape. Repeat to attach the Front Bottom Pocket Upper to one side of the zipper. Repeat to attach the Front Bottom Pocket Lower to the other side of the zipper. Create box pleat on the Front Bottom Pocket Lower Main and Lining pieces. Baste. Repeat on the other side. Stitch bar tack and trim ends of zipper. Take the bottom straight edge of Main Front: Top Pocket Upper and fold it up right sides together, matching straight edges. Pin. Stitch. Clip seam allowance at folded edge. Press. Repeat for the second Main corner and both lining corners. Place Main and Lining of the Front: Top Pocket Upper pieces together. Pin. Baste. Place top edge of the Front: Top Pocket Upper onto the bottom edge of the Front: Top Pocket Lower right sides together. Pin. Place the Front: Bottom Pocket Back piece onto the same edge right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press. Align raw side and bottom edges lower pocket with raw edges of lower front. Pin. Stitch.
- OUTER ASSEMBLY – Align zipper right sides together with Main Front: Side. Pin. Stitch. Press. Repeat for second side. Sew ends of zipper. Trim. Mark center of both Main Front: Side and Main Front. Place Main Front: Side and Main Front right sides together, match centers. Pin. Stitch. Clip corners. OPTIONAL Blanket Holder – Lay the Front right side up. Place raw edge of elastic of the Blanket Holder onto left side of the Front: Side, right sides together, 5 ½ inches from bottom edge. Pin. Lay second Blanket Holder flat. Pin elastic. Baste. OPTIONAL Side Straps – Lay Front right side up. Place raw edges of webbing onto right side of Front: Side, right sides together, first strap 7 ½ inches from bottom edge, second strap 6 ½ inches from first. Pin. Baste. Lay Main Right Side: Bottom right side facing up. Place zipper right side down ½ inch from one long edge. Pin. Stitch. Flip zipper. Press. Repeat to attach second Main Right Side: Bottom piece onto other side of zipper. Sew ends of zipper. Trim. Align zipper right sides together with Back: Side. Pin. Stitch. Press. Repeat for second side. Sew ends of zipper. Trim. Place Right Side: Middle onto Right: Side Bottom, right sides together, matching short sides. Pin. Stitch. Press. OPTIONAL – Topstitch. Repeat to attach the top edge of Right Side: Middle to the Main Back: Side. Repeat again to attach opposite side of Main Back: Side to Main Left Side. OPTIONAL Blanket Holder – Lay Back piece right side up. Place raw edges of elastics of Blanket Holder right sides together onto the Back 5 ½ inches from bottom edge. Lay Blanket Holder flat, pin second elastic. Baste. OPTIONAL Side Straps – Lay Back piece right side up, place the strap of the Blanket Holder right sides together onto the Back the first strap 7 ½ inches from bottom edge, second strap 6 ½ inches from first. Pin. Baste. Mark center of both Main Back: Side to Main Back piece. Place Main Back: Side to Main Back piece right sides together, match centers. Pin. Stitch. Clip corners. Place raw edge of Main Front: Side and Main Back: Side right sides together matching centers. Pin. Stitch. Place one long edge of Main Bottom onto bottom edge of Main Front right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Align a short side of the Bottom Lining piece onto the Front: Side and Back: Side pieces. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Match long bottom edge of the Bottom Lining piece onto the Back: Inside, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Repeat to attach the other short side of the Bottom Lining.
- ATTACHING OUTER & LINING – Open Main Bag. Place Bottom Insulated Interfacing onto Main Bottom. Place Bag Lining inside the Main Bag, match seam allowances at Bottom. Match corners of Main and Lining. Pin. Align Main and Lining. Pin. Stitch all four edges, stopping ½ – 1 inch from each corner. Lay Main Front wrong side up. Place a Front Inside Insulated Interfacing on top. Place Front Lining Inside Main Front, wrong sides together. Fold the Back: Side Lining pieces in half, mark center. Mark center of both Back: Inside pieces. Place Back: Side piece onto a Back: Inside piece right sides together, match centers. Pin. Stitch. Clip corners. Repeat to attach other edge of Back Lining to second Back: Inside piece. Stitch sides and top, do not stitch corners. Lay the back of the bag Front: Inside Insulated Interfacing wrong side up. Place a Front Inside Insulated Interfacing on top. Slide the Front: Insulated Interfacing under the zipper seam allowance. Pin. Place pressed edge of Front: Side Lining onto wrong side of zipper. Pin. Stitch. Repeat for the second side of Front: Side and zipper, both sides of bottom pocket zipper and both sides of back zipper. OPTIONAL Side Straps – Install the buckles onto the webbing.
- step 2 for the OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch (Front Inside)
- step 3 for the OPTIONAL Inner Pocket (Front Inside)
- step 4 for the OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch (Front Inside)
- step 5 for the Front: Inside Construction
- step 6 for the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider (Back Inside)
- or step 7 if you are not adding any of these OPTIONS.
- step 3 for the OPTIONAL Inner Pocket (Front Inside)
- step 4 for the OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch (Front Inside)
- step 5 for the Front: Inside Construction
- step 6 for the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider (Back Inside)
- or step 7 if you are not adding any of these OPTIONS.
- step 4 for the OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch (Front Inside)
- step 5 for the Front: Inside Construction
- step 6 for the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider (Back Inside)
- or step 7 if you are not adding any of these OPTIONS.
- step 5 for the Front: Inside Construction
- step 6 for the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider (Back Inside)
- or step 7 if you are not adding any of these OPTIONS.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ or ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ or ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Using tailors chalk or disappearing ink pen, mark the pleat markings onto the bottom edge of the Front: Bottom Pocket Lower and the OPTIONAL Plate Pouch if adding.
0.2OPTIONAL Interfacing
If you are adding interfacing to your pieces, or selected pieces, use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply it to the wrong side.
1 . OPTIONAL Plate Pouch1.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Plate Pouch (Front Inside), skip to:
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Plate Pouch, follow below.
1.1You are going to create a box pleat using the pattern markings.
NOTE – The images used are not the same piece, but the steps are the same. It is easier to show on a solid color than on the netting.
Match the two outer pattern markings, wrong sides together. Pin at this point and at the top of the fold.
Flatten the pleat, matching pins to center it evenly. Pin in place.
1.2Baste the pleats to secure them using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.3Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 to create the second box pleat on the other side of the bottom edge.
1.4Slide the top edge of the Plate Pouch inside the double fold bias tape, placing the raw edge at the centerfold of the tape. Pin.
1.5Stitch along the bottom edges, close to the folded edge, catching all layers.
1.6Trim the excess bias tape on either end.
2 . OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch2.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch, skip to:
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch, follow below.
2.1Fold the Cutlery Pouch in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin.
2.2Stitch the raw edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – This will be the bottom edge.
2.3Turn right sides out and press.
3 . OPTIONAL Inner Pocket3.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Inner Pocket, skip to:
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Inner Pocket, follow below.
3.1Lay the Inner Pocket Lower right side facing up. Place the zipper, right sides facing down, in the center, leaving ¼ inch gap from the edge of the fabric. Pin.
TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.
3.2Using a zipper foot, stitch along the zipper tape, using ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.3Flip the zipper right side up. Press the fabric away from the zipper.
NOTE – Be careful when pressing if using a metal zipper.
3.4Press the seam allowance in half, tucking it under the zipper tape.
3.5From the right side, pin the seam allowance in place.
3.6Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge.
3.7Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.6 to attach the other side of the zipper to the Inner Pocket Upper piece.
3.8Take the bottom raw edge of the Inner Pocket Lower and fold it up to the top raw edge of the Inner Pocket Upper, wrong sides together. Pin.
3.9Baste along the top edge using ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
3.10Cut a piece of bias tape 2 inches longer than the Inner Pocket side.
Open one end of the bias tape and fold it over to the wrong side by approximately 1 inch.
3.11Press the bias tape as per the original folds.
3.12Place the side of the Inner Pocket inside the binding, meeting the raw edge to the centerfold of the binding. The folded edge from step 3.10 should enclose the bottom edge of the Pocket. Pin.
3.13Stitch close to the folded edge, catching all layers.
Trim the excess bias tape from the top.
3.14Repeat steps 3.10 to 3.13 on the other side of the Pocket.
4 . OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch4.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch, skip to:
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Cheese Board, follow below.
4.1Place the Cheese Board Pouch pieces right sides together. Pin all edges.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-4 inch gap for turning.
4.3Clip the corners to reduce bulk.
4.4Turn right sides out and press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
5 . Front: Inside Construction5.0If you are adding all or any of the OPTIONAL accessory holders, follow below. The Inner Pocket, Cutlery Pouch and Plate Pouch are attached to one side. Follow steps 5.1 to 5.18 if you are adding these. The Cheese Board Pouch and accessory elastics are added to the other side. Follow steps 5.19 to 5.41 to add these.
5.1Lay the Front: Inside piece right side up. Lay the Inner Pocket, Plate Pouch, Cutlery Pouch, and elastic as desired.
If you would like to lay them as we have here, this is how to do it.
Place the Inner Pocket at the top, centering it, matching top raw edges.
Place the Cutlery Pouch elastic just underneath the bottom of the Inner Pocket. Place the Plate Pouch at the bottom, matching raw edges on the sides and bottom. Place the Cutlery Pouch underneath the top edge of the Plate Pouch.
TIP – Check your cutlery will fit into the elastic and into the pouch.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch, follow below. Or skip to step 5.8 for the OPTIONAL Plate Pouch or step 5.17 for the OPTIONAL Inner Pocket.
5.2OPTIONAL Cutlery Pouch: Place the Cutlery Pouch onto the Front: Inside, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin the sides.
Slide one of the webbing pieces ½ inch underneath the bottom edge of the Cutlery Pouch at the center. Pin.
NOTE – If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Plate Pouch, you do not need to attach webbing.
5.3Stitch along the bottom long edge and both short sides of the Cutlery Pouch, using a ⅛ seam allowance, securing the webbing.
TIP – Stitch 2-3 times over the webbing for extra security.
5.4Take the Cutlery Pouch elastic and mark it into six even sections using pins (shown with blue lines).
5.5Align the raw edges of the elastic with the raw edges of the Front: Inside piece. Pin the side raw edges.
NOTE – The elastic is shorter than the Front: Inside, so the Front: Inside will bunch slightly.
5.6Stitch the sides of the elastic in place just inside the ½ inch seam allowance.
5.7Stretch the elastic slightly so that the fabric lays flat. Stitch across the elastic at the marked placements from step 5.4.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Plate Pouch, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Plate Pouch, skip to step 5.17 for the OPTIONAL Inner Pocket.
5.8OPTIONAL Plate Pouch: Place the Plate Pouch at the bottom edge of the Front: Inside piece, matching raw edges. Pin.
TIP – Move the webbing up out of the way so it doesn’t get caught in the stitching.
5.9Place the second webbing piece on top of the Plate Pouch, centering it at the bottom edge. Pin.
5.10Stitch around the sides and bottom of the Plate Pouch, just within the ½ inch seam allowance.
5.11Slide the webbing that is attached to the Cutlery Pouch through the buckle body.
NOTE – The buckle body is the side of the buckle without prongs.
NOTE – We are only showing the webbing and buckle in these pictures so that it is easier to see.
5.12Fold the webbing over itself by 2 inches. Pin.
5.13Stitch the webbing overlap in place with a 1 inch box.
OPTIONAL – Stitch an X in the middle of the box for extra stability.
5.14Slide the webbing that is attached to the Plate Pouch through the buckle latch (with prongs) of the adjustable buckle.
5.15Fold the end of the webbing over by ½ inch. Then again by ½ inch. Pin or clip in place.
5.16Stitch along the folded edge.
Clip the buckles together.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Inner Pocket, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Inner Pocket, skip to step 5.19.
5.17OPTIONAL Inner Pocket: Place the Inner Pocket onto the Front: Inside, right side facing up, centered and matching raw edges. Pin.
5.18Stitch just within the ½ inch seam allowance.
This Front: Inside section is now complete. If you are adding the optional extras to the other Front: Inside, follow below. If you are not adding any of these options, skip to step 6 for the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider or to step 7.
5.19Lay the second Front: Inside piece right side up. Lay the Cheese Board Pouch, and elastics as desired.
TIP – We recommend placing your glasses, cheese board and accessories onto the Front: Inside and placing the Pouch and elastics down, checking that they work for your items. Adjust as needed.
If you would like to lay them as we have here, this is how to do it.
Center the Cheese Board Pouch. Place the bottom left elastic 1 inch above the bottom edge of the Pouch.
The second elastic on the left side is 2 inches above the first. Repeat on the other side of the Pouch. The upper elastic is centered.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch, follow below. If you are only adding the accessory elastics, skip to step 5.31 or skip to step 5.37 for the OPTIONAL Wine Glass Elastic.
5.20OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch – Place the Cheese Board Pouch onto the Front: Inside, right sides facing up. Pin.
NOTE – Check you have the Cheese Board Pouch the right way up. The folded edge is the top and the opposite edge with the gap is the bottom.
Slide the longer webbing piece inside the gap of the Cheese Board Pouch (left in step 4.2). Pin.
5.21Stitch along the sides and bottom edges using a ⅛ seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch 2-3 times over the webbing for extra security.
5.22Place the shorter webbing at the center of the top edge of the Cheese Board Pouch, just underneath the top edge. Pin.
5.23Stitch close to the edge of the webbing, stitching a few times to secure it.
5.24Flip the top webbing up and pin in place.
5.25Stitch just above the previous stitch line, enclosing the raw edge.
TIP – Stitch 2-3 times over the webbing for extra security.
5.26Slide the top webbing through the buckle body.
NOTE – The buckle body is the side of the buckle without prongs.
Fold the webbing over itself by 2 inches. Pin.
5.27Stitch the webbing overlap in place with a 1 inch box.
OPTIONAL – Stitch an X in the middle of the box for extra stability.
5.28Slide the bottom webbing through the buckle latch (with prongs) of the adjustable buckle.
Fold the end of the webbing over by ½ inch. Then again by ½ inch. Pin or clip in place.
5.29Stitch along the folded edge of the webbing.
5.30Clip the buckles together.
5.31OPTIONAL Accessory Elastic: Using your placement from step 5.19, place the first elastic facing in, approximately ½ inch from the edge of the Pouch. Pin.
5.32Stitch in place just outside the edge of the Pouch. Zig zag stitch the end of the elastic in place.
5.33Flip the elastic over, matching the raw edge with the raw edge of the Front: Inside. Pin.
5.34Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch 2-3 times over the elastic for extra security.
5.35Repeat steps 5.31 to 5.34 to attach the remaining three pieces of elastic to the sides of the Pouch.
5.36Place the edge of the elastic 2 inches from the raw edge of the fabric at the center.
Repeat steps 5.32 to 5.34 to stitch the elastic in place.
5.37OPTIONAL Wine Glass Elastic: Mark the wine glass elastic into quarters.
5.38Find and mark the center of the Front: Inside piece. Then mark 3 ½ inches on either side (shown in red).
5.39Place the raw edges of the wine glass elastic onto the Front: Inside, 6 ½ inches from the bottom edge, matching raw edges and quarter points. Pin.
5.40Stitch along the sides using a ¼ seam allowance.
5.41Stitch along the quarter markings.
The second Front: Inside is now complete.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider, skip to step 7.
6 . OPTIONAL Insulated Divider6.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider, skip to step 7. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider, follow below. You can add one or two Insulated Dividers.
6.1Place the loop tape (soft side) onto the right side of Insulated Divider, 1 inch from the long edge, and centered vertically. Pin.
6.2Stitch around the outside of the loop tape.
6.3Place the Insulated Interfacing onto the second Insulted Divider piece, ½ inch from one long edge and both short edges. Pin.
6.4Baste both long edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
6.5Place the two Insulated Divider pieces right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The gap on one side of the insulated piece needs to be on the same side as the loop tape on the other piece.
6.6Stitch around all four edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-4 inch gap along the long edge nearest the loop tape.
6.7Clip corners and trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
6.8Turn right sides out and press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
6.9Topstitch all four edges using a ⅛ seam allowance, closing the gap left in step 6.6.
6.10Stitch directly over the basting stitches from 6.4, closest to the loop tape.
6.11Remove any visible basting stitches from step 6.4.
6.12Fold the Insulated Divider at the stitching from step 6.10, with loop tape facing out.
Press.
TIP – Press carefully as heat can damage the loop tape
6.13Place the hook tape (scratchy side) onto the Back: Inside piece, 5 inches from the side and approximately 1 ½ inches from the top and bottom edges. Pin.
6.14Stitch around the outside of the hook tape.
6.15Attach the Insulated Divider onto the Back: Inside using the hook and loop tape.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.14 if you are adding a second Insulated Divider, placing it the same distance from the other side.
7 . Back: Inside Construction7.1Center the Insulated Interfacing onto the wrong side of one of the Back: Inside Bottom A pieces.
7.2Place a second Back: Inside Bottom A on top, wrong sides together, sandwiching the Insulated Interfacing in between the two layers. Pin.
7.3Stitch around all four sides using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.4Open one of the binding pieces. Place the binding right side down, onto one short edge, matching raw edges. Pin.
7.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, along the first fold.
7.6Fold the binding over, enclosing the raw edges. Pin.
7.7Edgestitch the binding.
7.8Repeat steps 7.4 to 7.7 on the other short side of the Back: Inside Bottom A piece.
7.9Trim the excess binding.
7.10Lay one of the Back: Inside pieces right side up.
NOTE – We are showing the side that will have the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider attached, but it can be attached to either piece.
Place the Back: Inside Bottom A piece, completed in step 7.9, right sides together, along the bottom edge. Pin.
7.11Place one Back: Inside Bottom B piece right side down, matching the bottom edge. Pin.
7.12Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.13Flip the pieces down and press the seam allowance open.
7.14Place the second Back: Inside piece right side facing up. Lay the Back: Inside piece (sewn above) right side down, with the loose Back: Inside Bottom B piece (stitched in step 7.12) flipped up, right side facing up.
Match the bottom edge of the second Back: Inside piece to the top edge of the insulated piece. Pin.
7.15Place the second Back: Inside Bottom B onto the insulated Back: Inside Bottom A, right sides together. Pin the long edge, sandwiching the insulated piece.
7.16Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.17Press the seam allowance open and the Back: Inside Bottom B pieces down.
8 . Lining Assembly8.1Fold one long edge of the Front: Side Lining ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
NOTE – This will be the inside edge which is attached to the zipper.
8.2Repeat step 8.1 with the second Front: Side Lining piece.
8.3Repeat step 8.1 for both Back: Side Lining pieces.
8.4Slide the Front: Side Insulated Interfacing under the folded over edge of the Front: Side Lining piece. Baste the Front: Inside Insulated Interfacing in place.
Repeat with the second Front: Side Lining piece, and both Back: Side Lining pieces.
8.5Fold one long edge on the Right Side: Bottom Lining ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
Center the Right Side: Bottom Insulated Interfacing on the Right Side: Bottom. Baste the Right Side: Bottom Insulated Interfacing in place.
Repeat with the second Right Side: Bottom piece, and Right Side: Middle.
8.6Center the Right Side: Middle Insulated Interfacing on the wrong side of the Right Side: Middle. Baste the Right Side: Middle Insulated Interfacing in place
Repeat with the Left Side Lining.
8.7Lay the Right Side: Middle Lining right side up. Place a Right Side: Bottom Lining right side down, at the top right corner, with the pressed edge facing in, matching raw edges. Pin.
8.8Repeat steps 8.4 to 8.5 with the second Right Side: Bottom Lining piece, placing it at the top left corner, leaving a ½ inch gap in the center between each piece.
8.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.10Press the seam allowance up towards the Bottom Lining.
8.11Repeat steps 8.5 to 8.8 to attach the Back: Side Lining pieces onto the other side of the Right Side: Middle Lining.
8.12Lay the Left Side Lining right side up. Place the raw edges of the Back: Side Lining pieces onto one short end of the Left Side Lining. Pin.
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.13Fold the Back: Side Lining pieces in half and mark the center at the raw edges.
8.14Mark the center top of the two Back: Inside pieces.
8.15Place the Back: Side piece onto one Back: Inside piece, right sides together, matching centers. Pin.
NOTE – Check that you are attaching your piece onto the correct side. There is a left and right side. The left side has one left piece. The right side has two pieces (Middle & Bottom).
NOTE – The Insulated Interfacing is not pictured in the following steps, however, construction is the same.
8.16Continue pinning the full Back: Side piece to the Back: Inside piece.
NOTE – The bound edge of the insulated pocket should be pointed up within your seam allowance (as shown in the bottom photo)
8.17Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – To stitch the corners, stop and shift the fabric as you are sewing. Drop the needle and pivot the fabric if needed.
8.18Clip into the corners to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
8.19Repeat steps 8.13 to 8.17 to attach the other raw edge of the Back Lining piece to the second Back: Inside piece.
8.20Pin the left bound edge of the insulated Back: Inside Bottom piece to the Left Side piece.
8.21Stitch over the previous stitching on the binding, stitching as close as you can to the top and bottom edge of the Pocket.
NOTE – You will now have one Back: Inside piece.
8.22Repeat steps 8.12 to 8.17 to attach the Front: Side pieces to the Front: Inside pieces.
TIP – Pin the webbing and loose pieces to the Front: Inside to keep them out of the way while sewing.
8.23Place the Front: Inside onto the Back: Inside, right sides together, matching bottom edges. Pin.
NOTE – We are attaching the Front: Inside with the Plate Pouch to the Back: Inside without the Insulated Divider. However, you can attach either Front: Inside here.
8.24Stitch from side seam to side seam only, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch onto the Front: Side and Back: Side pieces.
8.25Clip into the seam allowance on both sides, just inside the stitch lines, clipping up to, but not through the stitching.
8.26Press the seam allowance open.
8.27Open the Front: Inside pieces, right sides facing up. Place the Bottom Lining right side down, placing it onto the seam from step 8.23, with one long edge 3 inches away from the seam on each side. Pin.
8.28‘Stitch in the ditch’, or stitch from the wrong side of the seam directly in the seam so the visible stitches are kept at a minimum. You will be sewing directly along the seam line from step 8.23. You are attaching the two Front: Inside pieces to the Bottom of the bag.
TIP – Roll the Front: Inside piece so that the Lining pieces fit nicely through your machine and are easier to handle.
NOTE – The bottom photo is showing the stitch line on the wrong side of the Front: Inside pieces.
8.29Align one short side of the Bottom Lining piece onto the Front: Side and Back: Side pieces. Pin.
8.30Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.31Clip into the seam allowance, just inside the stitch lines, clipping up to, but not through the stitching.
8.32Place the long bottom edge of the Bottom Lining piece (furthest from the stitching from step 8.26) onto the Back: Inside (with Insulated Divider), right sides together. Pin.
8.33Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.34Clip into the seam allowance, just inside the stitch lines, clipping up to, but not through the stitching.
8.35Repeat steps 8.27 to 8.29 to attach the other short side of the Bottom Lining.
8.36Taking the second Front: Inside piece, align the short edge to the remaining space on the short edge of the Bottom, leaving a ½ inch gap for the zipper.
Repeating the same process as steps 8.27 to 8.33.
8.37Open up the Lining, separating the Front and Back. Place the insulated interfacing on top of the Back: Inside, aligning it within the seam allowance.
8.38Fold the back of the Front: Inside up over the top of the insulated interfacing, sandwiching it between the Front and Back.
Match the Side pieces at the seam allowances. Pin.
8.39Stitch up one long edge within the ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch the curved corners.
8.40Repeat step 8.37 on the short edge.
8.41Repeat step 8.37 on the other long edge.
9 . Back & Straps9.1Lay a Strap Connector right side up. Place the longer 18 inch length of webbing centered at the short edge. Pin.
9.2Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
9.3Place the mirror image Strap Connector on top, right sides together. Pin along both angled edges and the short edge.
9.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch several times over the webbing to reinforce the stitching.
9.5Clip the corners to reduce bulk.
9.6Turn the Strap Connector right side out. Press.
9.7Slide a piece of padding in between the layers, positioning as desired.
9.8Pin the long raw edge.
9.9Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
9.10Lay the Back: Lower right side up. Place the Strap Connector on top 1 inch from the bottom, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin
9.11Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
9.12Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.11 for the second Strap Connector.
9.13Lay a Shoulder Strap wrong side up. Place the padding down in the middle. Pin.
9.14Baste a few lines of stitching across the center of the padding to keep it in place while constructing the Shoulder Strap.
9.15With the Shoulder Strap right side up, place the shorter 7 inch strap webbing at the bottom edge of the Shoulder Strap, centered at the pattern marking. Pin.
9.16Place the mirror image Shoulder Strap right sides together. Pin.
9.17Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.18Clip into the seam allowance along the curved edges.
9.19Turn right sides out. Press.
NOTE – Be gentle when pressing the padding.
9.20Pin the top raw edge together.
9.21Baste using a ½ seam allowance.
9.22Repeat steps 9.13 to 9.21 for the second Shoulder Strap.
9.23Find and mark the center of the Back: Lower.
9.24Lay the Back: Lower right side up. Place the handle webbing ¾ of an inch on either side of center. Pin.
NOTE – Check that the webbing is not twisted.
9.25Place the Shoulder Straps ½ inch either side of handle. Pin.
NOTE – Check you are attaching the correct Shoulder Strap to the correct side. The bottom curved edge should be facing towards the side.
9.26Baste along the top edge of the Back: Lower using a ½ seam allowance.
9.27Place the Back: Upper onto the Back: Lower, right sides together, matching the straight edge. Pin.
9.28Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Reinforce the stitching by repeating this step several times. This will reinforce the Strap, preventing it from ripping away from the Bag. When full, the backpack can be quite heavy with this seam supporting the weight of the entire bag.
9.29Press the seam allowance up.
9.30OPTIONAL – Topstitch ⅛ from the edge of the seam.
9.31Repeat steps 5.11 to 5.16 to install the buckles onto the strap webbing.
NOTE – The buckle body goes onto the Shoulder Strap webbing.
NOTE – We have added adjustable buckles to the straps. If you prefer to use sliders or another adjustable hardware, use the manufacturer’s instructions to install them.
10 . OPTIONAL Blanket Holder10.1Place the Blanket Holder pieces right sides together. Pin.
10.2Stitch both short edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.3Slide one of the elastic pieces inside the two Blanket Holder pieces, butting it up against the seam on one side. Pin.
10.4Repeat step 10.3 for the second elastic against the other seam.
10.5Stitch from one seam to the other, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch 2-3 times over the elastic for extra security.
10.6Clip the corners to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
10.7Repeat steps 10.3 to 10.4 to add a third and fourth piece of elastic to the other long edge.
10.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-3 inch gap for turning
10.9Clip the corners.
10.10Turn right sides out and press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
10.11Topstitch along all four edges using a ⅛ seam allowance, closing the gap.
11 . Front11.1Lay the Front: Top Pocket Lower right side up. Place the zipper right side down at the top edge. Pin.
TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.
11.2Place the Front: Top Pocket Lining, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
11.3Using a zipper foot, stitch along the zipper tape, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
11.4Flip the Front: Top Pocket Lining over, wrong sides together. Press the fabric away from the zipper.
NOTE – Be careful when pressing if using a metal zipper.
11.5OPTIONAL Topstitch ⅛ inch from the fabric edge.
11.6Place Front: Top Pocket Upper onto the other side of the zipper, right sides together. Pin.
11.7Take the bottom raw edge of the Front: Top Pocket Lining and fold it up onto the other side of the zipper, wrong sides together. Pin.
11.8Using a zipper foot, stitch along the zipper tape, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
11.9Press the Front: Top Pocket Upper away from the zipper.
NOTE – Be careful when pressing if using a metal zipper.
11.10OPTIONAL Topstitch ⅛ inch from the fabric edge.
11.11Open the ends of the zipper. Stitch a bar tack across the zipper tape and teeth to close the zipper.
NOTE – If using a metal zipper go very slowly over the zipper teeth to make sure the needle doesn’t hit the metal. The needle can bend or break if it hits the metal zipper teeth.
Trim the ends of the zipper tape.
11.12Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.5 to attach the Front: Bottom Pocket Upper to one side of the zipper.
11.13Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.5 to attach the Front: Bottom Pocket Lower to the other side of the zipper.
11.14Baste the Main and Lining Front: Bottom Pocket Lower together, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
11.15You are going to create a box pleat on the Front: Bottom Pocket Lower Main and Lining pieces, using the pattern markings on one side.
Match the two outer pattern markings, wrong sides together. Pin at this point and at the top of the fold.
Flatten the pleat, matching pins to center it evenly. Pin in place.
11.16Baste the pleats to secure them using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
11.17Repeat steps 11.15 to 11.16 on the other side.
11.18Open the zipper. Stitch a bar tack across the zipper tape and teeth to close the zipper.
NOTE – If using a metal zipper go very slowly over the zipper teeth to make sure the needle doesn’t hit the metal. The needle can bend or break if it hits the metal zipper teeth.
Trim the ends of the zipper tape.
11.19Take the bottom straight edge of the Front: Bottom Pocket Upper and fold it up, right sides together, matching straight edges. Pin.
11.20Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
11.21Clip into the seam allowance at the folded edge. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
TIP – Use small little snips to get close to but not through the stitches.
11.22Press the seam allowance open.
11.23Repeat steps 11.19 to 11.22 for the second Main corner and both Lining corners.
11.24Place the Main and Lining of the Front: Top Pocket Upper pieces together. Pin.
11.25Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
11.26Place the top edge of the Front: Bottom Pocket Upper onto the bottom edge of the Front: Top Pocket Lower, with main pieces right sides together. Pin.
11.27Place the Front: Bottom Pocket Back piece onto the same edge, right sides together. Pin.
11.28Stitch along the Front: Bottom Pocket Back using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch within the side seam allowance.
11.29Press the Bottom Pocket down from the Front: Bottom Pocket Back.
11.30Take the Front: Bottom Pocket Back and match the bottom and side edges to the Front: Bottom Pocket Lower, right sides together with the Lining. Pin.
11.31Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
12 . Outer Assembly12.1Place the zipper right sides together with the Main Front: Side. Pin.
NOTE – Zippers come in various widths. This pattern has a ½ inch seam allowance along the zipper edge. If your zipper tape varies from that shown in the tutorial, align the edge of your fabric so you are able to take the full seam allowance without your stitches being too close to the zipper teeth.
12.2Using a zipper foot, stitch along the zipper tape, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
12.3Flip the zipper right side up and press the fabric away from the zipper.
12.4Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.3 with the second Main Front: Side.
12.5Open the ends of the zipper. Stitch a bar tack across the zipper tape and teeth to close the zipper.
NOTE – If using a metal zipper go very slowly over the zipper teeth to make sure the needle doesn’t hit the metal. The needle can bend or break if it hits the metal zipper teeth.
12.6Trim the ends of the zipper tape.
12.7Repeat steps 8.14 to 8.18 to attach the raw edge of the Main Front: Side to the Main Front.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Blanket Holder, follow below. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Side Straps, skip to step 12.10 or skip to step 12.11 if you are not adding either.
12.8OPTIONAL Blanket Holder – Lay the Front right side facing up. Place the raw edges of the elastic of the Blanket Holder onto the left side of the Front: Side, right sides together, 5 ½ inches from the bottom edge. Pin.
Lay the Blanket Holder flat and pin the second elastic.
12.9Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Side Straps, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Side Straps, skip to step 12.11.
12.10OPTIONAL Side Straps – Lay the Front right side facing up. Place the raw edges of the webbing onto the right side of the Front: Side, right sides together, with the first strap 7 ½ inches from the bottom edge and the second strap 6 ½ inches from the first one. Pin.
Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
12.11Lay the Main Right Side: Bottom right side facing up. Place the zipper right side down ½ inch from one long edge. Pin
12.12Using a zipper foot, stitch along the zipper tape, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
12.13Flip the zipper right side up and press the fabric away from the zipper.
12.14Repeat steps 12.11 to 12.13 to attach the second Main Right Side: Bottom piece onto the other side of the zipper.
12.15Repeat steps 12.5 to 12.6.
12.16Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.6 to attach the zipper to the Back: Side pieces.
12.17Place the Right Side: Middle onto the Right: Side Bottom, right sides together, matching long sides. Pin.
NOTE – You are attaching the top edge of the Right Side: Bottom so that the zipper opens down.
12.18Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
12.19Press the seam allowance up towards the Right Side: Middle.
12.20OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam ⅛ inch from the stitched seam.
12.21Repeat steps 12.17 to 12.20 to attach the top edge of the Right Side: Middle to the Main Back: Side.
NOTE – If you are using a single pull zipper, we recommend aligning the end of the zipper with the zipper pull on this Right Side.
12.22Repeat steps 12.17 to 12.20 to attach the opposite side of the Main Back: Side to the Main Left Side.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Blanket Holder, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Blanket Holder, skip to step 12.25 for the OPTIONAL Side Straps, or skip to step 12.27 if you are not adding either.
12.23OPTIONAL Blanket Holder – Lay the Back piece right side facing up. Place the raw edges of the elastics of the Blanket Holder, right sides together onto the Back, 5 ½ inches from the bottom edge. Pin.
Lay the Blanket Holder flat and pin the second elastic.
12.24Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Side Straps, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Side Straps, skip to step 12.27.
12.25OPTIONAL Side Straps – Lay the Back piece right side facing up. Place the raw edges of the Side Straps right sides together onto the Back, 7 ½ inches from the bottom edge and the second strap 6 ½ inches from the first one. Pin.
12.26Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
12.27Repeat steps 8.12 to 8.16 to attach the raw edge of the Main Back: Side to the Main Back piece, rolling Main Front out of the way as needed.
12.28Place the raw edge of the Main Front: Side and Main Back: Side right sides together, matching centers. Pin the sides and top edge, not the bottom edge.
12.29Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The second photo shows the bag from the other side.
12.30Place one long edge of the Main Bottom onto the bottom edge of the Main Front, right sides together. Pin.
12.31Stitch ½ inch away from the sides using a ½ inch seam allowance.
12.32Clip into the seam allowance, just inside the stitch lines, clipping up to, but not through the stitching.
12.33Repeat steps 8.27 to 8.33.
13 . Attaching Outer & Lining13.1Open up the Main Bag. Place the Bottom Insulated Interfacing onto the Main Bottom.
13.2Take the Bag Lining and place it inside the Main Bag, matching seam allowances at the Bottom, sandwiching the Insulated Interfacing in between the layers.
13.3Match the corners of the Main and Lining. Pin.
13.4Pin the long edges of the Main and Lining together.
13.5Stitch along all four edges, stopping about ½ – 1 inch from each corner.
TIP – Turn the Main Bag inside out and roll it up to the Lining to make this easier.
13.6Lay the Main Front wrong side up. Place a Front: Inside Insulated Interfacing on top.
13.7Place Front Lining inside the Main Front, wrong sides together, matching seam allowances.
Repeat steps 8.13 to 8.16.
13.8Stitch the sides and top within the seam allowance. Do not stitch the corners.
13.9Repeat steps 13.6 to 13.7 to add a Front: Inside Insulated Interfacing piece to the back of the bag.
13.10Place the pressed edge of the Front: Side Lining onto the wrong side of the zipper. Pin.
13.11Using a zipper foot, stitch along the Lining, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
13.12Repeat for the second side of the Front: Side and zipper, and both sides of the bottom pocket zipper, and both sides of the back zipper.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Side Straps, follow below. If you are not adding them, your Modern Picnic Backpack is finished!
13.13OPTIONAL Side Straps – Repeat steps 5.11 to 5.16 to install the buckles onto the Side Strap webbing.
Your Modern Picnic Backpack is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Modern Picnic Backpack is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rppicnicpatterns.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewModern Picnic Backpack
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
This backpack is the perfect holdall for your picnics, with a handle and padded straps. The outer front has two zipper pockets. The inside has two main insulated sections with an optional inner pocket, cutlery pouch, plate pouch for eight 10 inch plates, cheese board pouch for a 9 inch x 10 inch cheese board, elastic accessory holders for wine glasses, bottle opener and more, a bottle divider and a bottom pouch. There is also a zipper pocket at the bottom left side. You can add an optional blanket holder on the left side and optional adjustable straps to the right side. There is plenty of storage, with all the pockets and pouches to hold everything you need for a lovely picnic.
SizingSize Range
Bag
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Width
Height
Depth
ONE Size
14.0
20.0
8.0
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric – The exterior needs a heavy weight woven or non-stretch fabric such as canvas, duck, outdoor cloth, or upholstery fabric would work.
Lining Fabric – The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include quilting cotton, linen, broadcloth, or something similar.
OPTIONAL Interfacing – The recommended fabric is heavy weight woven, however if you are using a light to medium weight fabric for your main and lining you can add interfacing to all pieces for extra stability. The amount you need will depend on the pieces you are interfacing.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Picnic Backpack
3.00
3.25
OPTIONAL Insulated Divider
N/A
0.50
OPTIONAL Blanket Holder
0.25
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Picnic Backpack
2.00
2.50
OPTIONAL Insulated Divider
N/A
0.50
OPTIONAL Blanket Holder
0.25
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
NOTE – For webbing pieces you can use any width from ¾ to 1 ½ inches wide. Remember to use the same width buckles where needed.
- Insul-Fleece Interfacing e.g. Pellon 975, Insul-Bright, or Insulated Interfacing/Insulated Batting. Approximately 2 yards will be sufficient. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Insulated Divider, you will need another 0.25 yard per divider (up to 2).
- Handle – 1x 8 inches long webbing
- Straps:
- Padding – You can use a wadding or even a fleece to pad the Straps. We have used a high-density foam slab. 0.75 yard will be sufficient
- 2x 7 inches long webbing
- NOTE – If a tighter fitting strap is desired, you will want a shorter length of webbing. We suggest starting with this length and adjusting during construction.
- Shoulder Strap Connector – 2x 18 inches long webbing
- NOTE – If a tighter fitting strap is desired, you will want a shorter length of webbing. We suggest starting with this length and adjusting during construction.
- 2x buckles OR slide adjusters – to fit width of webbing
- Zippers: Any style zipper can be used as desired. The following zippers were used in the tutorial.
- Front – 1x 58 inches double pull zipper
- Back – 1x 38 inches double pull zipper
- Front Top Pocket – 1x 15 inches zipper
- Front Bottom Pocket – 1x 22 inches zipper
- Side Pocket – 1x 5 inches zipper
- Back: Inside Bottom – 2 inches wide double fold bias binding cut into 2x 9 inches lengths
- NOTE – If buying bias binding, you will need ½ inch wide double fold bias binding.
- OPTIONAL Insulated Dividers – 1 inch wide hook & loop tape cut into a 14 inches length per divider. You can add up to two.
- OPTIONAL Plate Pouch:
- 0.5 yard Netting/Mesh
- 2 inches wide bias binding 19 inches long
- 2x 15 inches long webbing
- NOTE – If you are planning on using fewer than 8 plates or thinner plates and a tighter fitting strap is desired, you will want a shorter length of webbing. We suggest starting with this length and adjusting during construction.
- 1x buckles OR slide adjusters – to fit width of webbing
- OPTIONAL Inner Zipper Pocket:
- 1x 15 inches long zipper
- 2 inches wide bias binding – approximately 1 yard
- NOTE – If buying bias binding, you will need ½ inch wide double fold bias binding.
- OPTIONAL Cheese Board Pouch webbing:
- 1x 10 inches long
- 1x 12 inches long
- 1x buckle OR slide adjuster – to fit width of webbing
- OPTIONAL Wine Glass storage – 2 inches wide elastic x 26-inches long
- OPTIONAL Accessory elastic for salt/pepper/bottle opener/cheese knife/etc – 1 inch wide cut into 5x 3 inches lengths
- OPTIONAL Cutlery Holder – 1 inch wide elastic, 15 inches long
- OPTIONAL Blanket Holder – 1 inch wide elastic cut into 4x 3 inches lengths
- OPTIONAL Side straps –
- 4 x 15 inches long pieces of webbing
- 2x buckles – width to fit webbing
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, zipper foot and optional washaway sewing tape. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
