Picnic Blanket

NOTE – Due to the size of the finished blanket, some steps are shown with a small version, in order to show details. The steps and processes are the same.

Bias Binding

If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold to bind the blanket.

Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding. 

Place two Front pieces right sides together, along one edge. Pin.

NOTE – If you are using directional fabric, check you are attaching the squares together in the same direction.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam as sewn. Then press the seam allowance open. 

Right sides together, align third Front piece along the opposite edge of the last seam. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam as sewn. Then press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.6 to add a fourth square to this row for sizes 60×80 and 80×80.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 to create the second and third row.

SIZE 80×80 BLANKET – Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for the fourth row.

Place two rows right sides together along a long edge, matching seams. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam as sewn. Then press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 1.8 to 1.10 to attach each additional row.

NOTE – For size 60×60 you will have a total of three rows of three squares. For size 60×80 you will have a total of three rows of four squares. For size 80×80 you will have a total of four rows of four squares.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.11 for the Back of the blanket. 

Lay the Back wrong side facing up. Center the batting on top.

Carefully matching seam intersections and seam lines, lay the Front on top, right side facing up. 

TIP – As your Front and Back are the same size and it can be tricky to line everything up. Go slowly and check all seams are lined up. Use lots of safety pins and pins in the next step.

TIP – Use basting spray adhesive in place of pins to hold the fabric layers together, especially if using water repellent fabric. 

Add pins or safety pins across entire blanket as needed to secure before quilting. 

Quilt the Front and Back together using the design of choice.

Quilting adds a lovely dimension, texturally and visually to your fabric. It can make your sewn items look really special.

If you would like to achieve the look we have created, here is how to do it.

Find the center of the blanket. Using chalk or a disappearing ink pen, draw a diagonal line. Mark diagonal lines through each square.

Stitch across each line.

NOTE – This is where you can go as fancy or as simple as desired. Shown here are simple diagonal lines across each square. Have fun and make this your own. 

TIP – Remember to remove the pins/safety pins as you sew, so you don’t break your needle or your pins. 

TIP – Use a contrasting thread to show the quilting detail.

Using a ruler, straighten and clean up all edges of batting and fabric. Cut down as needed to square the quilt. 

Place the provided corner trim guideline onto a corner. Pin.

Trim the corner around the guide.

Repeat steps 2.6 to 2.7 for the remaining three corners.

Place the shorter straps onto the right side of the Front, 6 inches into the second square from the seam between the first and second square. Pin.

NOTE – The straps will be centered on the 60×60, centered on the short edge of the 60×80, and on the second square in from the outer edge on the 80×80.

OPTIONAL Handle – Place each end of the handle ½ inch from each of the short straps pinned in step 3.1. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final blanket, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Place the longer straps on the Back of the quilt aligning with the shorter straps on the Front of the quilt. 

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

If using store bought binding, follow step 2 of this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to stitch the strips together.

If you have a preferred method to bind your blanket, do so now. Otherwise, follow below.

TIP – Read through the Binding the Edges instructions and watch the tutorial video before starting to sew to ensure understanding before starting construction. Read through the steps below, then watch the video here. 

Lay the Back right side up. Open up the double fold bias tape and place it onto the Back, matching raw edges, leaving a 6 inch tail at the start. Pin.  

Starting about 6 inches from the end of the bias tape, stitch along the first fold line, working all the way around the blanket. 

NOTE – At each corner, be sure to go slow. Leave the needle down and lift the presser foot as needed to keep raw edges aligned and stitch in the fold line all the way around the corner. 

TIP – Hold the bias tape slightly taut as you stitch.

Stop stitching 6-10 inches before reaching the start of the stitches.

Trim the end of the bias tape down to about 6 inches.

Overlap both ends of the bias tape right sides together, at a 45 degree angle, pinning where they intersect. 

Stitch together to create a finished loop of the bias tape. 

Trim the excess bias tape.

Press the seam allowance open. Then repress bias tape to original shape.

Align completed loop of bias tape with the edge of blanket. Pin.

Finish stitching the bias tape to the Back within the first fold line of the bias tape. 

Fold the bias tape over to the Front of the blanket, enclosing all raw edges, including the Straps and OPTIONAL Handle, if added. Pin or clip as needed.

NOTE – If the blanket within the bias tape is too bulky in places, you can trim the raw edges as needed for a smooth edge.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge of the bias tape. 

Slide the short strap through the buckle body. 

NOTE – The buckle body is the side of the buckle without prongs.

Fold the short strap over itself by 2 inches. Pin.

Stitch webbing overlap in place with a 1 inch box. 

OPTIONAL – Stitch an X in the middle of the box for extra stability. 

Slide the longer strap through the buckle latch of the adjustable buckle. 

Fold the end of the long strap over by ½ inch. Then again by ½ inch. Pin or clip in place.  

Stitch along the folded edge.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 to attach another adjustable buckle to the second short and long strap.

Your Picnic Blanket is finished! Follow the next step to fold it together.

Fold each outer edge toward the center. 

For three-column blankets, these outer rows will overlap. 

For four-column blankets, they will meet in the center. 

Fold again along the center seam line to enclose the outer rows inside the blanket.

Start rolling the blanket at the opposite end to the straps.

Close the buckles and tighten the straps as needed.