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Home / Womens / Bottoms, Office Wear, Pants
This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
4
Piper Paperbag Waist Pants
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
These stylish and comfortable slim line trousers feature a paperbag waist, invisible zip fastening, and pockets. There are two length options, two waistband options as well as an optional tie belt and side leg vent.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size using the waist measurements from the size chart. If your measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to your waist measurement and grade out to the hip of the size you need. If you fall at the bottom end of your size range, you may need to take the waist in at the side seams.
- Length – The trouser legs are designed to be slightly too long. The slit at the bottom of the trouser is designed to sit onto the shoe or just skimming the floor. That said, every individual has slightly different leg proportions, so it is advisable to do a muslin to check if you need to lengthen or shorten the trouser leg before cutting into your final fabric.
- Inseam – Before your muslin, measure your inseam. It is helpful to have a friend help you out with this. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of your leg. Since this pant is intended to be quite long, you will measure all the way to the floor. Compare this measurement to the Inside Leg on the finished measurement chart to help adjust for height.
- Height – These trousers are designed to fit a height of 5 foot 6 inches.
- All humans vary in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any fitted pant pattern (see below) to adjust to your personal body.
- If you need to lengthen or shorten, follow the advice below on crotch fitting to adjust at the crotch area, then, also adjust using the short cut line.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork, for back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork.
- If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start!
- As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Fitted pants can be a bit of an art but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front and back legs, clip or pin together at the waist and try on.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 8-inch invisible zipper
- Half a yard of iron-on interfacing – for medium weight woven fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give the waistband more structure.
- Thread to match
- Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Bag – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Waistband:
- Fabric – Cut 1 on the fold
- Lining – Cut 1 on the fold
- Interfacing – Cut 1 on the fold
- Back Waistband:
- Fabric – Cut 1 on the fold
- Lining – Cut 1 on the fold
- Interfacing – Cut 1 on the fold
- Belt – Cut 2
- Belt Loop – Cut 1
- Paperbag Waistband – Cut 2
Project OverviewPiper Paperbag Pants
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Piper Paperbag Pants will have you ready for work or a night on the town. These slim fit pants or shorts with front waist pleats to add comfort and style. The back darts create more shape and the invisible side zipper makes for an easy on/off. There are also options like the fun paperbag waistband and a tie belt to cinch in the waist. Scooped pockets are always a plus and the pants have an optional bottom vent.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Pants inseam
Shorts inseam
Front rise
Back rise
Pants ankle
Pants calf
XXS
27.2
38.0
29.0
5.0
8.7
11.2
11.0
13.0
XS
29.2
40.0
29.0
5.0
9.0
11.5
11.5
13.3
S
30.4
41.4
29.0
5.0
9.2
11.7
12.0
14.0
M
32.4
43.2
29.0
5.0
9.4
12.0
12.2
14.4
L
34.2
46.0
29.0
5.0
9.6
12.3
12.6
15.1
XL
36.2
48.6
29.0
5.0
10.0
13.0
13.0
16.0.
XXL
40.4
52.0
29.0
5.0
10.4
13.5
13.4
16.6
3XL
44.2
54.4
29.0
5.0
10.7
14.0
13.8
17.4
4XL
48.4
57.0
29.0
5.0
11.0
14.6
14.2
18.0
5XL
52.2
60.0
29.0
5.0
12.0
15.0
14.6
19.0
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsYou can use nearly any medium weight woven fabric. If you use a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the pants more structure. Some great suggestions are duchess satin, crepe satin, cotton drill, cotton lawn, linen, denim, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton or polycotton. If you use a fabric with a print or nap such as velvet, remember to cut all pieces in the same direction and to allow extra fabric for this.
TIP – As you are likely to be sitting and moving while wearing it, you may wish to check your fabric does not crease easily.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
Shorts
XXS – S
2.75
1.75
M – XL
3.00
2.00
XXL
3.00
2.25
3XL
3.25
2.25
4XL – 5XL
3.50
2.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
Shorts
XXS – S
2.75
1.75
M
3.00
1.75
L – XL
3.00
2.00
XXL
3.00
2.25
3XL
3.25
2.25
4XL – 5XL
3.50
2.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, zipper or invisible zipper foot, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pants Shorts OPTIONAL Paperbag Waistband XXS – XS 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-26, 28, 30-35 2-7, 9-14, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-35 8, 15, 22 S – L 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-27, 28, 30-35 2-7, 9-14, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-35 8, 15, 22 XL – 3XL 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-27, 28, 30-35 2-7, 9-14, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-35 8, 15, 22, 29 4XL – 5XL 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-27, 28, 30-35, 37 2-7, 9-14, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-35, 37 8, 15, 22, 29, 36 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Pants Shorts OPTIONAL Paperbag Waistband XXS 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-26, 28, 30-35 2-7, 9-14, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-35 8, 15, 22 XS – XL 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-27, 28, 30-35 2-7, 9-14, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-35 8, 15, 22 XXL – 4XL 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-27, 28, 30-35 2-7, 9-14, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-35 8, 15, 22, 29 5XL 2-7, 9-14, 16-21, 23-27, 28, 30-35 2-7, 9-14, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-35 8, 15, 22, 29, 36 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Belt Loop (Cut 1)
Belt (Cut 2)
OPTIONAL paperbag waistband
(Cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
2.00
16.25
4.00
44.50
4.00
24.10
XS
2.00
16.25
4.00
45.50
4.00
26.20
S
2.00
16.25
4.00
46.00
4.00
26.50
M
2.00
16.25
4.00
47.00
4.00
28.50
L
2.00
16.25
4.00
48.00
4.00
29.50
XL
2.00
16.25
4.00
49.00
4.00
31.50
XXL
2.00
16.25
4.00
50.00
4.00
34.40
3XL
2.00
16.25
4.00
51.50
4.00
38.50
4XL
2.00
16.25
4.00
54.00
4.00
41.50
5XL
2.00
16.25
4.00
56.00
4.00
45.70
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches onto the fabric.
- INTERFACING – Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the Front and Back Waistband lining pieces.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the Waistband (Main and Lining) and both Front and Back Legs
- PLEATS – On the Front Leg piece, match the pattern markings to form pleats. Fold the pleats toward the center of the Front Leg and pin in place and baste the pleats.
- DARTS – Transfer the dart onto the fabric, sew along the dart line and press toward the side seam of the pants. Repeat for other dart and darts on other leg.
- POCKETS – Place Pocket and Front Leg right sides together, sew along curved edge. Trim seam allowance, press, turn, and topstitch. Put Pocket Bag along curved edge and do a French seam. Baste top and side edges to front of the pants.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Sew the front rise with a French seam. Follow same process with back rise.
- LEFT SIDE SEAM – Sew Front Legs and Back Legs together along the left side seam using a French seam. If adding the optional vents, stop sewing at the mark.
- OPTIONAL PAPERBAG WAISTBAND – With the Paperbag Waistband right sides together, sew along short sides. Press seam open, then fold the Paperbag Waistband lengthways, wrong sides together and press. Mark the pleat lines starting at one end mark: 2 inches, 1 inch, then 1 ½ inches. Continue marking until you have at least 1 ½ inches left. Pin well and baste the top leaving the unpleated edges on each side unbasted. Stitch the short side, right sides together. Repeat for the other side.
- BELT LOOPS AND WAISTBAND – Fold Belt Loop as double fold bias tape. Top stitch on both sides of the Belt Loop, then cut into five equal pieces. Place Waistband Lining pieces right sides together and sew on left short end. Repeat with the Main Waistband pieces. Mark quarter points on Main Waistband and baste in Belt Loops at the top and bottom of the Front and Back Waistband. Press a ½ inch memory seam allowance on bottom edge of Waistband Lining. Place Paperbag Waistband and Main Waistband right sides together and pin. Put Waistband Lining on the Main Waistband wrong sides together. Sew the waistband, turn right side out, fold up memory seam allowance and press.
- INVISIBLE ZIPPER – Match Main Waistband and top edge of the pants, right sides together. Pin open zipper to left side and sew. Close zipper, pin to right side and sew. Close zipper to make sure it isn’t seen from right side. Fold waistband over zipper, sew and then turn right sides out. Press and fold back to the wrong side, fold up seam allowance, pin to waistband and stitch in the ditch or topstitch.
- RIGHT SIDE SEAM – Clip into each side of the seam allowance, just under where the zipper stitching ends. Sew Front Legs and Back Legs together along the right side seam using a French seam. If adding the optional vents, stop sewing when the markings are reached.
- OPTIONAL VENTS – Skip to step 11 if doing pants without vents. Clip into the seam allowance close to stitching above the vent. Press vent seam allowance to wrong side. Fold the top corner of the vent seam diagonally, then fold the rest of the seam allowance and pin, then topstitch.
- INSEAM – Press memory hem, then finish with a French seam.
- HEM – Fold hem, enclosing raw edges, pin and topstitch.
- BELT – Sew short ends with right sides together, press, fold in half lengthwise with right sides together. Sew all three sides, leaving an opening to turn. Trim corners, turn right side out and press then topstitch.
- Baste or clip the Front and Back legs at the right side seam and try on inside out.
- Check the fit while standing and while sitting.
- Clip or pin the side seams at the waist and hips to get the fit so you are happy with it. This may take a bit of playing with to get it right but the results for a personally fitted garment are well worth it. It’s like going to a personal tailor for a suit vs. buying one off the rack. You’ll be much more comfortable, and the garment will fit beautifully.
- Take the trousers off again. If you have taken the side seams in, trim the side seams to your new line you pinned, leaving a half inch seam allowance.
- If you took the side seam in at the hip, continue your new cutting line straight down to the hem so the trouser leg falls straight down. Then continue below.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem 1 inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem 1 inch
0.0NOTE – The child’s and ladies’ versions are very similar, however the child’s does not have a back dart and has an adjustable elasticated back rather than an invisible zip. If making both versions, make sure to check that you are following the correct instructions.
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the Front and Back Waistband lining pieces.
0.3Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add staystitching, the pants and waistbands are likely to stretch and then they won’t fit properly when you try to stitch them together.
Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch both Front and Back Legs and the Front and Back Waistbands (Main and Lining). Starting at the center, stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Front Pleats1.1With the Front Leg right side up, match the pattern marking nearest the side seam to the pattern marking on the first pleat, placing them right sides together.
Turn the Front Leg over, wrong side facing up, and fold the pleat toward the center and pin in place.
1.2Repeat step 1.1 using the next two pattern markings to make a second pleat.
1.3Baste along the top of the pleats using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Normally you baste inside the seam allowance, however for these pleats it is important to baste at ½ inch to ensure that the pleats lay correctly.
1.4Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 for the other Front Leg.
2 . Back Darts2.0There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. Use a method you are more familiar with or follow the steps below.
2.1Lay the Back Leg wrong side up on the ironing board.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up with the fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.
2.2Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep the pins in place.
Holding the pattern carefully out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. Lift the pattern piece out of the way, leaving the three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.
2.3Draw the dart in between both of the top pins and the bottom corner point using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Remove all three pins out of the fabric.
2.4Fold the fabric right sides together, matching the dart lines. Pin the fabric down the center line of the dart and press.
2.5Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart.
Press the dart toward the side seam of the Back Leg.
TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead, leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand. Check the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.
2.6Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the second dart and the darts on the other Back Leg piece.
3 . Pockets3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, pin the Pocket Bag to the Front leg along the curved edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 3.4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams. The reason we will be doing French seams is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
3.1With the right sides together (wrong sides out), pin the Pocket Bag and Front Leg together along the curved edge.
3.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.3Trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch.
TIP – Be careful not to cut through the stitches.
TIP – Trimming the seam allowance in half here ensures that all the threads and raw edges are hidden when the seam is encased in the next step. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
3.4Flip the Pocket Bag to the wrong side. Press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
3.5Topstitch with ¼ inch seam allowance to secure the Pocket opening. This encases the raw edges.
3.6The Pocket is attached using French seams. With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Pocket and the Pocket Bag together along the curved edge.
3.7Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.8Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hides all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
3.9Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).
3.10Turn right side out and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
3.11Baste the top and sides of Pocket to pants front using ¼ inch seam allowance.
4 . Front and Back Rise4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front Leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the rise seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press to the side. Repeat for the rise seam on the Back Leg. Then, skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
4.1The front rise seam is also sewn using a French seam.
Follow the same steps as in steps 3.6 to 3.11. With the wrong sides together, pin the Front Legs together along the front rise. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
NOTE – Press seam to wearer’s left.
4.2Stitch the back rise using a French seam.
Follow the same steps as in steps 3.6 to 3.11. With the wrong sides together, pin the Front Legs together along the front rise. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
5 . Left Side Seam5.0NOTE – We are sewing the left side seam before attaching the Waistband as the invisible zipper is sewn into the right side seam. However, if you prefer your zipper to be on the left hand side, sew the right side seam in this step, attach the zipper to the left hand side in step 8, and sew the left side seam in step 9.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Legs with the right sides together. Pin along the left side seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. For the optional vents, stop serging when you reach the markings. Press the seam to the back. Then, skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
5.1The left side seam is also sewn using a French seam.
Follow the same steps as in steps 3.6 to 3.11. With the wrong sides together, pin the Front Legs to the Back Legs along the left side seam. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
NOTE – If you are sewing the OPTIONAL vents, stop sewing when you reach the pattern markings.
6 . OPTIONAL Paperbag Waistband6.0For the Pants without Paperbag Waistband skip to step 7. For the optional Paperbag Waistband, follow the steps below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Paperbag Waistband pieces with the right sides together, and serge along the short end using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open. Fold the Paperbag Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press. Then skip to step 6.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
6.1Place the Front and Back Paperbag Waistband pieces, right sides together. Pin along one short edge.
6.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.3Press the seam allowance open.
6.4Fold the Paperbag Waistband lengthways, wrong sides together, and press.
6.5Mark the placements of the pleats on the right side of the Paperbag Waistband, using a washable marker or tailors chalk. Starting at one end, make marks at 2 inches, 1 inch, then 1 ½ inches. Continue marking until you have at least 1 ½ inches left.
NOTE – The first 2 inches include your ½ inch seam allowance.
6.6Starting at the 2 inch mark, pinch towards you to the 1 inch marking, creating a ½ inch pleat. Pin in place.
Move along to the 1 ½ inch marking, pinch towards you to the 1 inch marking, creating another ½ inch pleat. Pin in place.
Continue pleating until you reach your last 1 inch marking.
TIP – Use lots of pins to secure the pleats.
6.7Starting at the first pleat, baste along the bottom using a ¼ inch seam allowance, until you reach the last pleat. Do not baste across the first 1 ½ inches or the last 1 ½ inches.
NOTE – The raw edge will be enclosed into the Waistband at a later step.
Remove the pins from the pleats
6.8Starting at one short side, turn the unbasted fabric right sides together. Pin.
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Repeat for the other side.
7 . Belt Loops and Waistband7.1Fold the Belt Loop piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.
7.2Open it up and fold the raw edges into the pressed fold line. Press again.
7.3Press again along fold line from 5.1. This creates a long thin strip with the raw edges tucked inside.
7.4Top stitch ⅛ inch in along both sides of strip.
7.5Cut into five equal pieces.
NOTE – The fifth piece is for an OPTIONAL loop in the center of the Back Waistband should you wish to add one.
7.6Place the Front and Back (interfaced) Waistband Lining pieces, right sides together, matching the short edge on the left side.
7.7Pin together.
7.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.9Press the seam open.
Repeat steps 7.6 to 7.9 for the Main Waistband.
7.10Fold the Main Waistband in half lengthwise, and then in half again. Mark the quarter points at the top and bottom of the Waistband (Front and Back). Place your Belt Loops at these markings, matching up the raw edges and pin in place.
NOTE – If you are adding the OPTIONAL center back Belt Loop, fold the Back Waistband in half again to find the middle point between the two back Belt Loops.
7.11Baste each Belt Loop using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The Belt Loops won’t lay flat against the Waistband. This is to give room for the Belt to be thread through.
NOTE – The Waistband will be finished in step 8.
7.12Press the bottom of the Lining Waistband (interfaced) piece ½ inch towards the wrong side.
7.13For the Pants without the Paperbag Waistband skip to step 8.2.
Place the raw edge of the Paperbag Waistband onto the top of the Main Waistband, right sides together.
NOTE – The bottom of the Waistband is marked on the pattern piece.
7.14Baste using ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.15Place the Waistband Lining onto the Main Waistband, right sides together, and pin along the top edge.
NOTE – For pants with a Paperbag Waistband, it is now sandwiched between the Main Waistband and Waistband Lining.
7.16Stitch the Waistband using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Check you have stitched through all the Belt Loops.
7.17Turn the Waistband right side out. Press along the top seam.
Fold the seam allowance you pressed in step 7.12 up.
NOTE – The pictures in this step show the pants with a Paperbag Waist, however, the steps are the same.
NOTE – If you would like your pleats to be more defined, press them in place. If you prefer softer pleats, only press the top seam.
8 . Invisible Zipper8.0FIT CHECK – If you haven’t already, check the finished garment measurements of the waist & hips against you or your model. If the trouser size you are doing is not fitted against your body, you may need to adjust the side seams to get a snug but comfortable fit…. Even if you have sewed this pattern several times, I recommend you do this fitting step each time as different woven fabrics have different levels of give in them.
8.1Match the bottom edge of the Main Waistband (non-interfaced) to the top edge of the Pants with the right sides together and pin.
TIP – Match the Waistband centers to the front and back seams and pin from the ends of the Waistband inwards. This will help ease the slightly curved Waistband onto the pants.
NOTE – The images used in these steps don’t show the Waistband Lining bottom seam allowance pressed up, but this is needed in order to enclose the raw edges.
8.2Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance, making sure to stitch through the Belt Loop pieces.
8.3Press the seam allowance up.
8.4The zipper part should end at the pattern marking on the leg pieces, and the tails extend approximately 1 inch below the marking.
Shorten your zipper if necessary, to match the zipper length indicated by the pattern markings. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack stitch several times over the zip to stop the zipper going below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off.
TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zip to the other.
8.5Unzip your invisible zipper. Place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.
Iron the zipper so the teeth are as straight as possible. Press the teeth gently towards the center with your fingers, then butt the iron up against them before sliding the iron along the rest of the zipper. The zipper may look a little odd now, but the teeth should lay flat (as opposed to being curled upwards as they are when the zipper is closed).
NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zipper a little to make it easier to attach.
8.6Press a ½ inch seam allowance along the right side seam of the Front Leg. Unfold the pressed seam allowance.
8.7With the pants right side up and the Waistband Lining flipped up out of the way, place the zipper, teeth side down, onto the pants.
Line up the zipper teeth to the pressed seam allowance made in step 8.6. Line up the zipper top stop with the top seam of the Main Waistband.
Pin the left side of the zipper to the side seam.
TIP – Check that the correct side of the zipper is on the correct side of the Pants, making sure that both the pants and zipper are right sides together.
8.8INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left groove of the invisible zipper foot. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down to the pattern marking.
REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zipper to the pants, as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down to the pattern marking.
8.9Close the zipper and place a pin on the right zipper tape at the bottom of the stitching. The pin will line up with the pattern marking to ensure that the zipper stays lined up when it is sewn to the right side of the pants.
8.10Repeat steps 8.7 to 8.9 with the right zipper tape on the right side of the pants.
TIP – Take a moment once you have pinned the zipper to do it up and check everything aligns. Is the zipper the correct way up, do the zipper markings align with the trouser? Make any adjustments, then continue and stitch.
It may feel awkward, but stitch from the top of the pants downwards, stopping at the pattern marking.
Trim the excess of the top of the zipper. Be careful not to cut the metal stopper or below as you won’t be able to close the zipper.
8.11Close the zipper and make sure that it is not visible from the right side. If there is a gap that shows the zipper, sew another line of stitching closer to the zipper teeth. It is not necessary to remove the first line of stitching.
8.12Turn the pants wrong way out and open the zipper.
Starting below the Waistband on one side, fold the seam allowance in half, towards the zipper tape and pin in place.
8.13Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape to enclose the raw edge.
NOTE – Check that you are not stitching the zipper teeth.
TIP – Use a walking foot if you have one as it helps control where you are stitching when sewing through thicker layers like this. Alternatively use your zipper foot if you do not have a walking foot.
8.14Flip the Waistband Lining over the Main Waistband, right sides together. Pin together.
NOTE – Check that the bottom seam allowance of the Waistband Lining is still folded up and pinned in place.
8.15Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Trim the corner to help reduce bulk.
Repeat steps 8.12 to 8.15 for the other side.
8.16Turn right sides out (wrong sides together) and press.
8.17Fold the Waistband Lining down to the wrong side of the pants. Press.
8.18Pin along the Waistband. Make sure the seam allowances are all caught inside. The raw edges should all be hidden.
TIP – Pin from the right side along the seam between the Pants and the Waistband.
8.19‘Stitch in the ditch’ to attach the Waistband. This is when stitching goes exactly on top of a previous seam, just catching the other side of the waistband in the stitching and which encloses the raw edges. The stitching will not easily be visible in the finished garment.
TIP – Use a blind hem foot to help you sew right ‘in the ditch’.
From the right side of the Pants, start at the left side seam and stitch along the back seam only, where the Pants meet the Waistband.
Stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and Pants flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Pants. Occasionally, lift the pants up to check that the stitching is catching the other side of the Waistband.
TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction onto the Pants instead of the Waistband. This usually ends up fairly invisible.
ALTERNATIVE – Topstitch the Waistband using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
9 . Right Side Seam9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the pants facing wrong sides out, clip into each side of the seam allowance, just under where the zipper stitching ends. Place the Front and Back Legs with the right sides together. Pin along the right side seam below the invisible zipper. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. For the optional vents, stop serging when you reach the markings. Press the seam to the back. Then, skip to step 11.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
9.1The right side seam is also sewn using a French seam.
With the pants facing wrong sides out, clip into each side of the seam allowance, just under where the zipper stitching ends.
TIP – You want to you clip as close to the stitching and fold as possible without cutting into it. Aim for approximately 1 – 2mm below the stitching and snip approximately 1 – 2mm away from the fold. If you snip too far, you will have a hole so err on the side of caution. You can always come back and snip a little more if you find later your seam isn’t lying flat.
9.2We will now start our French seam.
Follow the same steps as in steps 3.6 to 3.11. With the wrong sides together, pin the Front Legs to the Back Legs along the right side seam starting below the zipper. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
NOTE – If you are sewing the OPTIONAL vents, stop sewing when you reach the pattern markings.
10 . OPTIONAL Vents10.0For pants without the vents, skip to step 11.
10.1Clip into the seam allowance above the vent as close to the stitching as possible without cutting the stitches.
TIP – Clip horizontally into the seam allowance and close to where the stitching finishes.
10.2Press the seam allowance of the vent ¼ inch to the wrong side.
10.3Tuck the top corner of the vent seam allowance under diagonally to enclose the top of the raw edge, and then fold the rest of the vent seam allowance another ¼ inch to enclose the raw edge. Pin in place.
10.4Topstitch starting at bottom of pants, stitching up the vent, horizontally at top, and then back down the other side of the vent.
Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.4 for the other leg.
11 . Inseam11.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, pin the Front to the Back along the inseam. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then, skip to step 12.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
11.1OPTIONAL – Press a memory hem at the bottom of each Leg by pressing the bottom edge up ½ inch to the wrong side and then another ½ inch.
Unfold the hem.
11.2Close the inseam with a French seam.
Follow the same steps as in steps 3.6 to 3.11. With the wrong sides together, pin the Front to the Back along the inseam. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.
NOTE – It can be quite difficult to press the trouser crotch seam, especially on the smaller sizes. Just press as much as you can. The very inside of the crotch can’t be seen on the finished garment so it doesn’t matter if you can’t get all the way in there. Often just pinching it with your fingertips is sufficient.
12 . Hem12.0This step is the same to hem either the pants or shorts.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the hem. Do not remove any fabric. Press 1 inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to the edge. Then skip to step 13.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
12.1Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press, then fold another ½ inch and press. Pin the hem in place.
12.2Topstitch along the folded edge.
13 . Belt13.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Belt in half lengthwise and serge around the three raw edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-inch opening. Then, skip to step 13.8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
13.1Match the short ends of the Belt pieces with the right sides together.
13.2Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
13.3Press the seam allowance open.
13.4Fold in half lengthwise, right sides together.
13.5Pin along all three sides.
13.6Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Leave a 3-inch opening along the long side to turn.
13.7Trim the corners to prevent bulk. Be careful not to cut into stitching.
13.8Turn right side out and press the seams.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
13.9Press well.
13.10Topstitch ⅛ inch along all four sides, enclosing the opening used to turn.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Piper Paperbag Pants are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rppiperpaperbagpants.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewPiper Paperbag Pants
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Piper Paperbag Pants will have you ready for work or a night on the town. These slim fit pants or shorts with front waist pleats to add comfort and style. The back darts create more shape and the invisible side zipper makes for an easy on/off. There are also options like the fun paperbag waistband and a tie belt to cinch in the waist. Scooped pockets are always a plus and the pants have an optional bottom vent.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Pants inseam
Shorts inseam
Front rise
Back rise
Pants ankle
Pants calf
XXS
27.2
38.0
29.0
5.0
8.7
11.2
11.0
13.0
XS
29.2
40.0
29.0
5.0
9.0
11.5
11.5
13.3
S
30.4
41.4
29.0
5.0
9.2
11.7
12.0
14.0
M
32.4
43.2
29.0
5.0
9.4
12.0
12.2
14.4
L
34.2
46.0
29.0
5.0
9.6
12.3
12.6
15.1
XL
36.2
48.6
29.0
5.0
10.0
13.0
13.0
16.0.
XXL
40.4
52.0
29.0
5.0
10.4
13.5
13.4
16.6
3XL
44.2
54.4
29.0
5.0
10.7
14.0
13.8
17.4
4XL
48.4
57.0
29.0
5.0
11.0
14.6
14.2
18.0
5XL
52.2
60.0
29.0
5.0
12.0
15.0
14.6
19.0
Materials and ToolsYou can use nearly any medium weight woven fabric. If you use a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the pants more structure. Some great suggestions are duchess satin, crepe satin, cotton drill, cotton lawn, linen, denim, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton or polycotton. If you use a fabric with a print or nap such as velvet, remember to cut all pieces in the same direction and to allow extra fabric for this.
TIP – As you are likely to be sitting and moving while wearing it, you may wish to check your fabric does not crease easily.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
Shorts
XXS – S
2.75
1.75
M – XL
3.00
2.00
XXL
3.00
2.25
3XL
3.25
2.25
4XL – 5XL
3.50
2.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
Shorts
XXS – S
2.75
1.75
M
3.00
1.75
L – XL
3.00
2.00
XXL
3.00
2.25
3XL
3.25
2.25
4XL – 5XL
3.50
2.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 8-inch invisible zipper
- Half a yard of iron-on interfacing – for medium weight woven fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give the waistband more structure.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, zipper or invisible zipper foot, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.