Reusable Cloth Pads

Cloth Pads and Wet Bags

Difficulty Level = Beginner 

Make the healthier, affordable, and more eco-friendly change to reusable cloth pads. With six sizes to choose from, the rounded shape for comfort, and wings that snap securely over your underwear, you will find the perfect fit for you. Each pad is 3 inches wide and consists of four layers – the topper, the absorbent core, the backer, and a waterproof lower barrier. Each pad can be folded and placed into an individual wet bag or stored in a larger drawstring bag ready for washing. This is a perfect scrap buster or upcycling project.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Panty Liner - Maxi Ultra

Size Chart

Size and Absorbency Guide

Choosing your Size and Thickness

Each person has a different flow and pattern of bleeding. You may need different lengths and thicknesses depending on the day of your period. Try determining how your personal menstrual flow situates on a pad. If you tend to bleed more to the front of the pad, you can extend the pattern piece to cater for your personal needs. Likewise, for more back bleed.

If you have used disposable pads, try a size and thickness that is similar to this. You can adjust the level of thickness by adding more Core layers to your pad. Please see information below for details on layers.

• Use the Panty Liner size as a daily liner. We recommend only using one Core layer.
• For protection against little leaks, try the Small. We recommend only using one Core layer.
• Try the Classic for a light to regular period. You can use multiple Core layers.
• For a regular to heavy flow try the Standard or Maxi. These are also ideal for nights. You can use multiple Core layers.
• If your period is very heavy or for postpartum, try the Maxi Ultra. These are also ideal for nights. You can use multiple Core layers.

You will need several different fabric types for each layer of your Cloth Pad. Each pad is made up of four layers: Topper, Core, Backer and Waterproof Barrier. You will need approximately ¼ yard or a fat quarter for each layer. This is a great scrap buster and a chance to upcycle. 

• Topper – This is the layer that will be against your skin. You will need a fabric that draws moisture away from the body, such as a light or heavy flannelette, bamboo fleece, cotton terry toweling, woven cotton, cotton jersey, hemp fleece, or minky are all great choices. If you prefer to have a natural fabric against your skin, then a cotton or organic cotton is best. This will also be cooler to wear against your skin. If you would like to upcycle try use an old t-shirt, pajamas or any clothing made from the suggested fabrics.
• Core – This needs to be an absorbent material. It can be stretch/knit fabric. Great options are light or heavy flannelette, bamboo fleece, Zorb, cotton terry toweling, woven cotton or medium weight cotton jersey or cotton lycra. If you would like to upcycle try use an old towel or face cloth. The fabric chosen for the Core fabric will greatly affect how absorbent the finished pad will be. You may need to add more than one absorbent layer to the Core to get the desired absorption. Please see information below for details on layers.
• Waterproof Barrier – The waterproof barrier can be made from Polyurethane Laminate (PUL) fabric, polar fleece, or blizzard fleece (not required if Backer is made from waterproof material e.g. PUL). 
• Backer – This sits against your underwear and as such, you may wish to make this layer waterproof. This layer can be made from a light or heavy flannelette, bamboo fleece, Polyurethane Laminate (PUL) fabric, cotton terry toweling, woven cotton, cotton jersey, minky, polar fleece, microfleece, and blizzard fleece. If you are using PUL with a grip or backing, or fleece fabrics for this layer, you won’t need the third waterproof layer. If you would like to upcycle try use an old towel or face cloth.

OPTIONAL Wet Bags (Individual and Large) – You will need a waterproof fabric such as Polyurethane Laminate (PUL) fabric.  You will need approximately ¼ yard or a fat quarter for the individual Wet Bags and ½ to ¾ yards for the Large.

* Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink. PUL does not shrink so no need to prewash.

You will also need:

• ⅜ inch wide Plastic snaps:
  • x2 per Cloth Pad
  • x1 per OPTIONAL Individual Wet Bag
• OPTIONAL Large Wet Bag:
  • ¼ inch wide Cord or binding x1 yard OR Bias binding x1 yard
  • OPTIONAL ⅜ inch wide Eyelets x2
  • OPTIONAL Scrap of interfacing to use behind eyelets
• Thread to match
  • NOTE – If you are using PUL for the waterproof barrier, you will need a polyester thread. This won’t draw moisture whereas cotton thread will.

Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, optional pinking shears, optional eyelet pliers, optional teflon or walking foot, snap plier tool, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Core Layers

You can adjust the thickness of your Cloth Pad by increasing the number of layers used when creating the Core. This will depend on the types of fabrics used and its absorbency, and the absorbency you need. Here is a rough guide of how many layers you need for each Core, depending on the heaviness of flow.

Using and Folding your Pads

Place the Cloth Pad inside your underwear with the Topper facing your body and the Backer against your underwear. Wrap the wings around and snap together.

• Fold the bottom of the pad into the middle. 
• Then fold the top into the middle. 
• Fold the wings over and press the snaps closed.

Changing your Pads

When you are ready to change your pad, hold it with the Topper (absorbent side) face up. Fold as per the instructions above and pop it into your wet bag.

Cleaning your Cloth Pads and Wet Bags

• Storing – Rinse your pad and place into a Wet Bag. The individual Wet Bag is perfect for when you are out and about. The Large Wet Bag is great if you are travelling. Using a drawstring means the bag won’t close fully which will help stop odors.
• Soaking – After use place pads in a bucket with lid, containing cold water until laundry. Do not use hot water as it sets the stain. Remember to clean the bucket regularly.
• Laundry – Once pads are soaked add them to a wash at 40 degrees. Washing at a higher temperature can shrink or damage the pad. Use a powder rather than a liquid detergent and avoid using fabric conditioner. This will leave a residue on the fabrics and decrease the absorbency over time. You can also place them into a mesh laundry bag if you prefer. As the wet bags are used to carry and store the pads, they can get unpleasant. It is just as important to wash the bags as it is the pads. We recommend washing your wet bags the same way you wash your pads. Wash them regularly. Turn the bags inside out to ensure they are thoroughly cleaned. Wash at 40 degrees.
• Drying – Air drying your pads and wet bags will keep them in a better condition. Do not tumble dry as some fabrics can shrink, and fibers can be removed.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Cutting Checklist: 

• Individual Cloth Pad 
  • Topper – Fabric cut 1
  • Core – Fabric cut 1 – 8 (See Core Layers chart above) 
  • Backer – Fabric cut 1
  • Waterproof Barrier – Fabric cut 1
  • NOTE – Cut the same size for each layer. If you are using a waterproof fabric for your Backer, you won’t need the fourth waterproof layer.
• OPTIONAL Individual Wet Bag – PUL cut 1 
• OPTIONAL Large Wet Bag:
  • Drawstring Casing – PUL cut 1 on fold
  • Bag – PUL cut 2 on fold
  • Bottom – PUL cut 1 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings.
2. OPTIONAL CORE LAYERS – Baste the Core Layers together and treat as one piece.

Sewing –

1. CLOTH PAD – Center the Core onto wrong side of Topper. Pin. Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Place Backer on top of Waterproof Barrier, wrong sides together. Baste outer edges. Lay Backer with outside facing up. Place Topper right side facing down with Core facing up. Clip the outer edges. Stitch leaving a 2-3 inch gap. Trim seam allowance, clip corners and snip into seam allowance along curves. Turn pad right side out. Press seams. Fold in seam allowance at gap. Clip in place. Topstitch. Using the manufacturer’s instructions, add snaps to the wings at the pattern markings. Press.
2. OPTIONAL INDIVIDUAL WET BAG – Lay the Bag wrong side facing up. Fold the top edge over to wrong side by ½ inch. Fold over another ½ inch. Clip in place. Topstitch. Repeat for bottom edge. With the Bag wrong side facing up, take bottom edge and bring it up to the fold marks, wrong sides together. Clip in place. Using the manufacturer’s instructions, add snaps at pattern markings. Starting at the top, stitch down to the bottom using ¼ inch seam allowance. This will create a ‘pocket’. Clip ¼ inch above the top of the ‘pocket’, cutting horizontally to the stitching. Trim the seam allowance of the pocket. Turn the bag inside out. Press. Clip along the ‘pocket’ seam. Stitch. Turn right side out and press. Repeat for the other side. Fold top side seam edges ¼ inch to the wrong side, then another ¼ inch. Clip in place. Topstitch. Repeat steps for the other side.  
3. OPTIONAL LARGE WET BAG – Stitch the Bags together at the side seams using a French seam. Stitch the Bottom of the Bag using a French seam. Lay the Drawstring Casing wrong side facing out. Fold the long edges on both sides over to the wrong side by ⅜ inch. Clip in place. Fold the Drawstring Casing in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, matching the long ends. Press along the centerfold and the top and bottom folded edges. Fold the Drawstring Casing in half width ways, wrong sides together. Press along the fold. Open up. Using the manufacturer’s instructions add the eyelets at the pattern markings. Use a French seam to stitch the short edges of the Drawstring Casing together. Mark the quarter points on the Wet Bag and the Drawstring Casing. Lay the Wet Bag right side out and slide the Drawstring Casing over the top edge, right sides together, matching quarter points. Clip in place. Stitch. Fold the Drawstring Casing over the wrong side of the Wet Bag. From right side, stitch in the ditch. Thread drawstring, cut to desired length and tie ends.

Congratulations, your Cloth Pads and Wet Bag are done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpclothpad #rpwetbag.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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