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This pattern is copyrighted 2023 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Roll Up Hanging Organizer
Member Rating
Difficulty Level

Beginner
Equipment Needed


Description
The Roll-Up Hanging Organizer comes in two great sizes, large and small, and is the perfect way to keep all of your toiletries, make-up, and other cosmetics all together in its four removeable pouches. Add the optional D-Ring Tab or Eyelets to your Roll-Up Hanging Organizer and it can be hung up out of the way. Roll it up to hide it from sight or take it on the go. It’s a fun sew and makes a great gift.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. The finished roll-up hanging organizer comes in sizes Small and Large.
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- +Preparation
- Interfacing – Midweight fusible woven interfacing e.g. Pellon SF 101 Shape Flex / Vilene F700. If you are using a lightweight fabric you will want to use a heavier interfacing / stabilizer to create a firm bag. You will need approximately the amounts listed below (in YARDS):
- Small: 1.50
- Large: 2.25
- Fusible Fleece – You will need Fusible Fleece in addition to your chosen interfacing / stabilizer for your bag. You will need approximately the amounts listed below (in YARDS) of each:
- Small: 0.50
- Large: 1.00
- 4x Regular Zipper (closed end) –
- Small: 8 inches
- Large: 10 inches
- NOTE – A longer zipper can be used and trimmed down to size.
- TIP – A continuous zipper can be used in place of the individual sized zippers.
- Hook and Loop Tape – ¾ inch wide Hook and Loop Tape – Approximately 2 yards will be enough for both sizes.
- ⅜ inch wide double fold Bias Binding – Approximately 5.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – If you are making Bias Binding, you will need to make 1 ½ inch wide Bias Binding.
- OPTIONAL – 1x 1 ½ inch D Ring
- OPTIONAL – ¼ to ½ inch Eyelet
- 2x Closure OPTION A
- 1x Closure OPTION C
- Thread to match
Project OverviewDifficulty Level = Beginner
The Roll-Up Hanging Organizer comes in two great sizes, large and small, and is the perfect way to keep all of your toiletries, make-up, and other cosmetics all together in its four removeable pouches. Add the optional D-Ring Tab or Eyelets to your Roll-Up Hanging Organizer and it can be hung up out of the way.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
S, L
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Finished Measurements (in INCHES)
Width Length Height Small (Rolled up) 4.0 7.25 4.0 Small Pouches 3.5 6.25 2.0 Large (Rolled up) 6.0 10.0 6.0 Large Pouches 4.5 10.0 3.0 Materials and ToolsFabric – You will need a woven, or non-stretch fabric. Cotton, quilting cotton, canvas, or twill are all great choices.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide
(in YARDS) (in YARDS)
Main Lining Main Lining Base Base Large 0.50 0.50 Large 0.50 0.50 Small 0.25 0.25 Small 0.25 0.25 Pouch Pouch Large 0.75 0.75 Large 0,50 0.50 Small 0.50 0.50 Small 0.25 0.25 OPTIONAL D-Ring Tab OPTIONAL D-Ring Tab Large Scraps N/A Large Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A OPTIONAL Tabs OPTIONAL Tabs Large Scraps N/A Large Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A OPTIONAL Handle OPTIONAL Handle Large Scraps N/A Large Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, needle, pins or clips, tailors chalk or disappearing ink pen or fabric marker, optional zipper foot, cutting mat, ironing board, rotary cutter or scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Base: Large Base Markings: Large Clousure OPTIONS: Large Base: Small Base Markings: Small Clousure OPTIONS: Small Pouch OPTIONAL D-Ring Tab OPTIONAL Tabs OPTIONAL Handle 2-5, 7 9-12, 16-19 22-26 2-4, 7 12-14, 19-21 26-29 5-6 7 8, 15 8 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Base: Large Base Markings: Large Clousure OPTIONS: Large Base: Small Base Markings: Small Clousure OPTIONS: Small Pouch OPTIONAL D-Ring Tab OPTIONAL Tabs OPTIONAL Handle 2-5, 7 9-12, 16-19 22-26 2-4, 7 12-14, 19-21 26-29 5-6 7 8, 15 8 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – The cut chart below is for one Roll-Up Hanging Organizer with four pouches.
NOTE – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Base – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, Interfacing / Fusible Fleece cut 2
Fabric Width Length S 18.00 7.25 L 25.50 10.25 Triangle – Fabric cut 8, Lining cut 8, Interfacing / Fusible Fleece cut 16
Pouch – Fabric cut 4, Lining cut 4, Interfacing / Fusible Fleece cut 8
Fabric Width Length S 9.25 7.25 L 12.40 10.25 OPTIONAL D-Ring Tab – Fabric cut 1
Fabric Width Length S 4.0 3.5 L 4.0 3.5 OPTIONAL Handle – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
Fabric Width Length S 3 7 L 3 9 OPTIONAL Tabs – Fabric cut 1
Fabric Width Length S 2 16 L 2 16 For OPTION A, B and D
¾ inch Hook Tape Length S 5.25 L 7.25 For OPTION C
¾ inch Hook Tape Length S 2.38 L 3.00 NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at, and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- Interfacing – Midweight fusible woven interfacing e.g. Pellon SF 101 Shape Flex / Vilene F700. If you are using a lightweight fabric you will want to use a heavier interfacing / stabilizer to create a firm bag. You will need approximately the amounts listed below (in YARDS):
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – Use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing or fleece to the wrong side of the Base Main and Lining, Pouch Main and Lining, Triangle Main and Lining, OPTIONAL Handle.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Make Double Fold Bias Binding for the Tab.
- OPTIONAL TAB – Use double fold bias method for Tab. Topstitch open long edge. OPTIONAL – Topstitch folded edge. Cut Tab into 2 inch pieces. Fold each Tab in half. Pin.
- HOOK AND LOOP – Place 2 loop pieces of hook and loop tape onto Main Pouch at the pattern markings. Pin. Stitch. Repeat for the other three Main Pouch pieces.
- ZIPPER – Find and mark the center points on short edge of Main Pouch, Pouch Lining, and zipper. Place zipper teeth right side down on the right side of the Main Pouch, matching center points. Pin. Lay Pouch Lining right side down on Main Pouch, align center points. Pin. Stitch. Fold the Main Pouch and Pouch Lining in half, then repeat entire step to attach raw edges of Pouch to the other side of the zipper tape. OPTIONAL – Topstitch both sides of the zipper. Repeat to attach zippers to Main Pouch and Pouch Lining of the three remaining Pouches. OPTIONAL – Baste both long raw edges. Trim zipper if necessary and stitch a stationary bar tack.
- CONSTRUCTION OF POUCH – Lay a Triangle Main and Triangle Lining wrong sides together. Baste. Repeat for second Triangle. OPTIONAL Tabs – Center Tabs on top of the zipper. Pin. Baste. Fold Pouch in half so zipper is on top. Lay it so the loop tape is face down. Measure 2 inches down from the zipper and mark. Open the zipper and turn the Pouch wrong sides out. Align top point of Triangle to mark. Pin Triangle to Pouch right sides together, easing together at seam allowance. Stitch. Trim. Finish seams with zigzag stitch, overlock stitch, or bind them. Repeat to create 3 more Pouches.
- OPTIONAL D-RING TAB – Fold D-ring Tab in half right sides together, pin one short edge and long edge. Stitch. Clip corner. Turn. Fold raw edge in ½ inch toward the inside. Press. OPTIONAL – topstitch. Thread D-ring Tab. Set aside.
- HOOK AND LOOP – Place hook tape onto Base Lining piece at markings. Pin. Stitch. Closure OPTIONS Add hook tape depending on the OPTION A, B, C, or D you have chosen. Place Main Base and Base Lining wrong sides together. Pin. Baste. Bind. If you are doing OPTION A or OPTION C, add Eyelets. OPTION D – Find and mark the center point of the Base top edge and the D-ring Tab. Align the center points of the Base and D-Ring Tab. Pin. Stitch. Place the closure loop tape on the outer side of the Base at the marking. Stitch.
- OPTIONAL HANDLE – Fold Handle in half right sides together, pin one short edge and long edge. Stitch. Clip corner. Turn. Fold raw edge in ¼ inch toward the inside. Press. Topstitch all the way around. Place the Handle onto the Main Base at markings. Stitch ends.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
Section A – Pouches
Section B – Base
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing onto the wrong side of the following pieces: Base Main and Lining, Pouch Main and Lining, Triangle Main and Lining. OPTIONALLY, you can apply interfacing to the OPTIONAL Handle piece.
NOTE – For this tutorial we used mid-weight interfacing for the Pouch Main and Lining, Triangle Main and Lining. For the Base we used fusible fleece. If you want your Pouches to have more structure and you are using a lighter weight fabric, you may want to use a heavier weight interfacing or fusible fleece instead of mid-weight interfacing.
0.3OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold bias binding to finish the raw edges.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
1.1 . SECTION A - POUCH, Optional Tab1.1.1If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Tabs, skip to step 2.
If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, please use this. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!
Fold the Tab piece in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Press.
NOTE – Pre-made bias tape can also be used.
1.1.2Open the Tab and fold the two long sides into the middle and press.
1.1.3Refold the Tab along the middle fold, folding the raw edges to the inside. Press.
1.1.4Topstitch the open side using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
1.1.5OPTIONAL: Topstitch the folded long side using a ⅛ seam allowance.
1.1.6Cut Tab into 2 inch pieces. There will be a total of 8 Tab pieces.
1.1.7Fold each Tab in half and pin. Set aside.
1.2 . Hook and Loop1.2.1Place the 2 loop pieces (fuzzy side) of the hook and loop tape onto the Main Pouch at the pattern markings. Pin.
1.2.2Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to keep the seam from unraveling.
1.2.3Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 to attach the loop tape onto the the other three Main Pouch pieces.
1.3 . Zipper1.3.1Find and mark the center points on one short edge of the Main Pouch and Pouch Lining pieces.
1.3.2Fold the zipper in half and mark the center point.
1.3.3Place the zipper with the teeth right side down on to the right side of the Main Pouch, aligning the center points. Pin.
1.3.4Lay the Pouch Lining piece right side down on the Main Pouch, right sides together, sandwiching the zipper between the two layers. Align the center points. Pin.
1.3.5Using a zipper foot, stitch together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
TIP – You might not be able to sew the zipper on with a ⅜ inch seam allowance depending on the width of your zipper tape. Sew the seam allowance with whatever width you can.
1.3.6Fold the Main Pouch Main and Pouch Lining in half and repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 and attach to raw edges of the Pouch to the other side of the zipper tape.
1.3.7OPTIONAL – Topstitch along both sides of the zipper using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
1.3.8Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 to attach the zippers to the Main Pouch and Pouch Lining of the three remaining Pouches.
1.3.9OPTIONAL: Baste both long, raw edges using a ⅛ to ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Basting the long edges will be a great help when stitching the Triangles, particularly the corners of the Triangles.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final pouch, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.3.10If your zipper is too long, trim the ends. Then, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop the zipper teeth on both ends.
TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zipper to the other. Or you can hand stitch a bar tack stitch.
1.4 . Construction of Pouch1.4.1Lay a Triangle Main and Triangle Lining wrong sides together and baste around all 3 sides using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
1.4.2Repeat step 4.1 to baste the other Triangle pieces together.
1.4.3If you are adding the OPTIONAL Tabs, with the Main Pouch right side facing out, center the Tabs on top of the zipper. Align the raw edges of the Tab and Main Pouch. Pin.
Baste them using a ⅛ to ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Backstitch over the Tabs to strengthen the seam.
1.4.4Fold the Pouch in half so the zipper is on top. Lay it so the loop tape is facing down.
1.4.5If you are doing the large size, measure 2 inches down from the zipper and mark with a pin (it is shown in the picture).
If you are doing the small size, measure 1 inch down from the zipper and mark with a pin.
NOTE – the construction is the same from here for both sizes.
1.4.6Open the zipper all the way.
Turn Pouch wrong sides out and align the top point of the Triangle to the point marked in step 4.5.
NOTE – in the picture the large size is shown. If you are doing the small size, your marking should be 1 inch from the zip.
1.4.7Pin the Triangle to the Pouch right sides together, easing them together as you go.
NOTE – When easing the Pouch, make a small snip into the Pouch edge at the marking made in step 4.5. Be careful not to make the snip longer than ⅜ inch or you will end up with a hole on your pouch. The snip should be inside the seam allowance.
TIP – Ease the Triangle onto the Pouch at the ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Using pins instead of clips helps at the corners.
NOTE – Having a little extra fabric at the triangle corners is ok.
1.4.8Stitch with a zipper foot using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitching the Triangle can be quite fiddly. Take your time and go very slow, moving the fabric out of the way to prevent bulk and catching it in the seam, particularly at the bottom corners.
1.4.9Repeat steps 4.6 to 4.8 to attach the Triangle to the other side of the pouch.
1.4.10Trim the seam allowance on both ends to approximately ¼ inch to reduce bulk.
1.4.11To finish the seams, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
If you wish to do either of these, do this now and skip to step 4.16.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, bias binding will be used to bind the seam.
Open out the fold on one side of your bias binding and press one short side under ¼ inch and press.
NOTE – The small size Pouches are small, and while possible it may be difficult to be bound with bias binding,
1.4.12Open out the bias tape and place it with the wrong side of the bias binding onto the right side of the Triangle. Align the fold of the bias binding to the seam allowance on the Triangle. Pin.
Pin the bias binding all the way around the Triangle continuing to pin the fold on the bias binding to the seamline. Overlap the bias binding approximately ⅜ inch where you started pinning.
Trim the excess bias tape.
TIP – Do not align the bias binding with a corner, rather pin it to a straight part of the Triangle edge.
1.4.13Stitch by stitching along the fold on the bias tape that has been pinned at the seamline.
1.4.14Fold the bias around to the right side of the Pouch and pin to enclose all edges.
1.4.15Topstitch along the folded edge of the bias tape to secure, making sure not to catch the Pouch as you stitch.
Press the bound seam toward the Pouch.
TIP – Place the pins perpendicular to the seam on both sides of the zipper as a reminder to slow down and be careful not to stitch through the metal zipper end parts.
1.4.16Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.15 to create 3 more pouches.
2.1 . SECTION B - BASE, OPTIONAL D-ring Tab2.1.0If you are doing the D-ring Tab OPTION, follow below. If not, skip to step 2 to attach the hook and loop tape to the Base.
2.1.1Fold D-ring Tab in half right sides together, pinning one short edge and the long edge.
2.1.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.1.3Clip the corner to reduce the bulk. Make little snips into the seam allowance at the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
2.1.4Turn Tab right side out and press the seams.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
2.1.5Fold the raw edge in ½ inch towards the inside and press.
2.1.6OPTIONAL – Topstitch both long sides using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2.1.7Thread the D-ring onto the Tab and set aside.
2.2 . Hook and Loop2.2.1If you have not done it yet, transfer the pattern markings for the hook and loop tape onto the Base Lining.
2.2.2Place eight hook tape pieces (scratchy side) onto the Base Lining piece at the markings. Pin.
2.2.3Stitch each hook and loop tape on using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to keep the seam from unraveling.
2.2.4Closure OPTIONS:
OPTIONS A and B:
If you are doing OPTION A which requires two eyelets or OPTION B, you will add ONE piece of hook and loop tape as a closure.
OPTION D:
If you are doing OPTION D which requires a D-ring, you will need one or two pieces of loop tape depending on which option you choose to use for a closure.
OPTION C:
If you are doing the OPTION C, which requires one eyelet, you will add TWO pieces of hook and loop tape for closure.
TIP – Double check that you are using the right markings for your chosen option.
If you are doing OPTION A, the Two-Eyelet OPTION, check the size of your eyelets as the size of the outer part can be different. Place the eyelets onto the Base Lining a ½ inch from the top and side raw edges. The hook tape should be placed between the eyelets, at least ½ inch from either eyelet. If needed, trim the hook tape.
Depending on your choice, place one or two hook tape (the scratchy part) piece onto the right side of the Base Lining. Pin.
2.2.5Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2.2.6Place the Main Base and Base Lining wrong sides together. Pin.
2.2.7Baste together using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2.2.8Open up the bias binding. Place the binding onto one short side of the Base leaving a 3-inch tail.
NOTE – Place the binding so there will be a 4-inch unsewn gap between where you start stitching the binding and where the binding will end.
2.2.9Using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, start stitching at the end of the 3-inch tail. Stitch until ⅜ inch from the edge of the Base.
NOTE – The pictures used are from a different pattern, however, the techniques are the same.
2.2.10Fold the binding away from the Base.
Place a finger on the fold to keep it in place.
2.2.11Fold the binding back over itself towards the Base, keeping the straight edges aligned. Pin.
Using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, stitch the long edge stopping ⅜ inch from the edge.
2.2.12Repeat steps 2.10 to 2.11 to continue attaching the binding to the Base.
NOTE – Leave a 4-inch space.
2.2.13Pinch the binding together at the 4-inch gap so that each side sits flush.
Place a pin where the binding from both sides meets in the middle.
NOTE – The binding should meet at the center of the 4-inch unsewn gap from step 2.13.
2.2.114Gently pull the binding away from the Base.
Stitch the two pieces of binding together.
Trim off the excess binding.
2.2.15Stitch the binding to the Base, closing the gap.
2.2.16Fold the bias binding over the raw edge, covering the stitching. At the corners, fold the bias tape under so it forms a diagonal. Pin.
2.2.17Then stitch in the ditch along the seam.
This is where the stitching goes exactly on top of a previous seam.
2.2.18If you are adding Eyelets for OPTION A or OPTION C, insert them now at the markings according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once you have inserted the eyelets, skip to step 2.22.
If you are doing OPTION B, skip to step 2.22.
If you are doing the OPTION D and adding the D-ring, follow below.
2.2.19OPTION D, adding the D-ring: Find and mark the center point of the Base top edge and the D-ring Tab.
2.2.20Aligning the center points, pin the D-ring Tab onto the Outside of the Base. The Tab edge should be ¾ inch from the Base edge (just above the closure hook tape).
2.2.21Stitch a ½ inch by 1 ½ inch rectangle for the large and a ⅜ inch by ⅞ inch rectangle for the small on the bottom edges of the Tab. Stitch diagonally across to make an X in the middle for additional strength.
2.2.22Place the closure loop tape (fuzzy part) on the outer side of the Base at the marking (1 ⅜ inch from the raw edge).
TIP – Before attaching the loop tape, place the pouches onto the base and check that the placement of the closure loop tape is correct for your organizer. If needed, adjust the placement.
2.2.23Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Handle, skip to step 3.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Handle, your Roll-Up Hanging Organizer is finished!
2.3 . OPTIONAL Handle2.3.1Fold Handle in half right sides together and pin one short and the long edge.
2.3.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.3.3Clip the corner to reduce the bulk. Make little snips into the seam allowance at the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
2.3.4Turn right side out.
2.3.5Fold the raw edge in ¼ inch towards the inside and press.
2.3.6Topstitch all the way around using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2.3.7Place the Handle onto Main Base at the pattern markings. Pin.
Stitch a ½ inch by ¾ inch rectangle on the large, and a ¾ inch by ½ inch rectangle on the small, on each end of the Handle. Stitch diagonally across each of the rectangles to make a X in the middle for additional strength.
NOTE – This rectangle gives more strength to the Handle than just stitching or basting across the edge. It will be visible in the final roll-up organizer; however, it is recommended if going for a stronger option.
Your Roll-Up Hanging Organizer is Finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Roll-Up Hanging Organizer is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rprolluporganizer.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2023
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewDifficulty Level = Beginner
The Roll-Up Hanging Organizer comes in two great sizes, large and small, and is the perfect way to keep all of your toiletries, make-up, and other cosmetics all together in its four removeable pouches. Add the optional D-Ring Tab or Eyelets to your Roll-Up Hanging Organizer and it can be hung up out of the way.
SizingSize Range
S, L
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Finished Measurements (in INCHES)
Width Length Height Small (Rolled up) 4.0 7.25 4.0 Small Pouches 3.5 6.25 2.0 Large (Rolled up) 6.0 10.0 6.0 Large Pouches 4.5 10.0 3.0 Materials and ToolsFabric – You will need a woven, or non-stretch fabric. Cotton, quilting cotton, canvas, or twill are all great choices.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide
(in YARDS) (in YARDS)
Main Lining Main Lining Base Base Large 0.50 0.50 Large 0.50 0.50 Small 0.25 0.25 Small 0.25 0.25 Pouch Pouch Large 0.75 0.75 Large 0,50 0.50 Small 0.50 0.50 Small 0.25 0.25 OPTIONAL D-Ring Tab OPTIONAL D-Ring Tab Large Scraps N/A Large Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A OPTIONAL Tabs OPTIONAL Tabs Large Scraps N/A Large Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A OPTIONAL Handle OPTIONAL Handle Large Scraps N/A Large Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A Small Scraps N/A * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
- Interfacing – Midweight fusible woven interfacing e.g. Pellon SF 101 Shape Flex / Vilene F700. If you are using a lightweight fabric you will want to use a heavier interfacing / stabilizer to create a firm bag. You will need approximately the amounts listed below (in YARDS):
- Small: 1.50
- Large: 2.25
- Fusible Fleece – You will need Fusible Fleece in addition to your chosen interfacing / stabilizer for your bag. You will need approximately the amounts listed below (in YARDS) of each:
- Small: 0.50
- Large: 1.00
- 4x Regular Zipper (closed end) –
- Small: 8 inches
- Large: 10 inches
- NOTE – A longer zipper can be used and trimmed down to size.
- TIP – A continuous zipper can be used in place of the individual sized zippers.
- Hook and Loop Tape – ¾ inch wide Hook and Loop Tape – Approximately 2 yards will be enough for both sizes.
- ⅜ inch wide double fold Bias Binding – Approximately 5.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – If you are making Bias Binding, you will need to make 1 ½ inch wide Bias Binding.
- OPTIONAL – 1x 1 ½ inch D Ring
- OPTIONAL – ¼ to ½ inch Eyelet
- 2x Closure OPTION A
- 1x Closure OPTION C
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, needle, pins or clips, tailors chalk or disappearing ink pen or fabric marker, optional zipper foot, cutting mat, ironing board, rotary cutter or scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
- Interfacing – Midweight fusible woven interfacing e.g. Pellon SF 101 Shape Flex / Vilene F700. If you are using a lightweight fabric you will want to use a heavier interfacing / stabilizer to create a firm bag. You will need approximately the amounts listed below (in YARDS):