Roll Up Hanging Organizer

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing onto the wrong side of the following pieces: Base Main and Lining, Pouch Main and Lining, Triangle Main and Lining. OPTIONALLY, you can apply interfacing to the OPTIONAL Handle piece.

NOTE – For this tutorial we used mid-weight interfacing for the Pouch Main and Lining, Triangle Main and Lining. For the Base we used fusible fleece. If you want your Pouches to have more structure and you are using a lighter weight fabric, you may want to use a heavier weight interfacing or fusible fleece instead of mid-weight interfacing.

OPTIONAL Bias Binding

If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold bias binding to finish the raw edges.

Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Tabs, skip to step 2.

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, please use this. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold the Tab piece in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Press.

NOTE – Pre-made bias tape can also be used.

Open the Tab and fold the two long sides into the middle and press.

Refold the Tab along the middle fold, folding the raw edges to the inside.  Press.

Topstitch the open side using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

OPTIONAL: Topstitch the folded long side using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Cut Tab into 2 inch pieces. There will be a total of 8 Tab pieces.  

Fold each Tab in half and pin. Set aside. 

Place the 2 loop pieces (fuzzy side) of the hook and loop tape onto the Main Pouch at the pattern markings. Pin.

Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to keep the seam from unraveling. 

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 to attach the loop tape onto the the other three Main Pouch pieces. 

Find and mark the center points on one short edge of the Main Pouch and Pouch Lining pieces. 

Fold the zipper in half and mark the center point.

Place the zipper with the teeth right side down on to the right side of the Main Pouch, aligning the center points. Pin. 

Lay the Pouch Lining piece right side down on the Main Pouch, right sides together, sandwiching the zipper between the two layers. Align the center points. Pin.

Using a zipper foot, stitch together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.

TIP – You might not be able to sew the zipper on with a ⅜ inch seam allowance depending on the width of your zipper tape. Sew the seam allowance with whatever width you can. 

Fold the Main Pouch Main and Pouch Lining in half and repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 and attach to raw edges of the Pouch to the other side of the zipper tape.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch along both sides of the zipper using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 to attach the zippers to the Main Pouch and Pouch Lining of the three remaining Pouches.

OPTIONAL: Baste both long, raw edges using a ⅛ to ¼ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Basting the long edges will be a great help when stitching the Triangles, particularly the corners of the Triangles.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final pouch, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

If your zipper is too long, trim the ends. Then, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop the zipper teeth on both ends. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zipper to the other.  Or you can hand stitch a bar tack stitch.

Lay a Triangle Main and Triangle Lining wrong sides together and baste around all 3 sides using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Repeat step 4.1 to baste the other Triangle pieces together. 

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Tabs, with the Main Pouch right side facing out, center the Tabs on top of the zipper. Align the raw edges of the Tab and Main Pouch. Pin. 

Baste them using a ⅛ to ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Backstitch over the Tabs to strengthen the seam. 

Fold the Pouch in half so the zipper is on top. Lay it so the loop tape is facing down.

If you are doing the large size, measure 2 inches down from the zipper and mark with a pin (it is shown in the picture).

If you are doing the small size, measure 1 inch down from the zipper and mark with a pin.

NOTE – the construction is the same from here for both sizes.

Open the zipper all the way.

Turn Pouch wrong sides out and align the top point of the Triangle to the point marked in step 4.5. 

NOTE – in the picture the large size is shown. If you are doing the small size, your marking should be 1 inch from the zip.

Pin the Triangle to the Pouch right sides together, easing them together as you go. 

NOTE – When easing the Pouch, make a small snip into the Pouch edge at the marking made in step 4.5. Be careful not to make the snip longer than ⅜ inch or you will end up with a hole on your pouch. The snip should be inside the seam allowance. 

TIP – Ease the Triangle onto the Pouch at the ⅜ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Using pins instead of clips helps at the corners.

NOTE – Having a little extra fabric at the triangle corners is ok.

Stitch with a zipper foot using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Stitching the Triangle can be quite fiddly. Take your time and go very slow, moving the fabric out of the way to prevent bulk and catching it in the seam, particularly at the bottom corners. 

Repeat steps 4.6 to 4.8 to attach the Triangle to the other side of the pouch. 

Trim the seam allowance on both ends to approximately ¼ inch to reduce bulk.

To finish the seams, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch. 

If you wish to do either of these, do this now and skip to step 4.16.

Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, bias binding will be used to bind the seam. 

Open out the fold on one side of your bias binding and press one short side under ¼ inch and press.

NOTE – The small size Pouches are small, and while possible it may be difficult to be bound with bias binding, 

Open out the bias tape and place it with the wrong side of the bias binding onto the right side of the Triangle. Align the fold of the bias binding to the seam allowance on the Triangle. Pin.

Pin the bias binding all the way around the Triangle continuing to pin the fold on the bias binding to the seamline. Overlap the bias binding approximately ⅜ inch where you started pinning.

Trim the excess bias tape.

TIP – Do not align the bias binding with a corner, rather pin it to a straight part of the Triangle edge.

Stitch by stitching along the fold on the bias tape that has been pinned at the seamline.

Fold the bias around to the right side of the Pouch and pin to enclose all edges. 

Topstitch along the folded edge of the bias tape to secure, making sure not to catch the Pouch as you stitch. 

Press the bound seam toward the Pouch.

TIP – Place the pins perpendicular to the seam on both sides of the zipper as a reminder to slow down and be careful not to stitch through the metal zipper end parts. 

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.15 to create 3 more pouches. 

If you are doing the D-ring Tab OPTION, follow below. If not, skip to step 2 to attach the hook and loop tape to the Base.

Fold D-ring Tab in half right sides together, pinning one short edge and the long edge.  

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Clip the corner to reduce the bulk. Make little snips into the seam allowance at the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitching. 

Turn Tab right side out and press the seams.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Fold the raw edge in ½ inch towards the inside and press. 

OPTIONAL – Topstitch both long sides using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Thread the D-ring onto the Tab and set aside.  

If you have not done it yet, transfer the pattern markings for the hook and loop tape onto the Base Lining.

Place eight hook tape pieces (scratchy side) onto the Base Lining piece at the markings. Pin. 

Stitch each hook and loop tape on using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to keep the seam from unraveling. 

Closure OPTIONS:

OPTIONS A and B:

If you are doing OPTION A which requires two eyelets or OPTION B, you will add ONE piece of hook and loop tape as a closure. 

OPTION D:

If you are doing OPTION D which requires a D-ring, you will need one or two pieces of loop tape depending on which option you choose to use for a closure.

OPTION C:

If you are doing the OPTION C, which requires one eyelet, you will add TWO pieces of hook and loop tape for closure. 

TIP – Double check that you are using the right markings for your chosen option.

If you are doing OPTION A, the Two-Eyelet OPTION, check the size of your eyelets as the size of the outer part can be different. Place the eyelets onto the Base Lining a ½ inch from the top and side raw edges. The hook tape should be placed between the eyelets, at least ½ inch from either eyelet. If needed, trim the hook tape. 

Depending on your choice, place one or two hook tape (the scratchy part) piece onto the right side of the Base Lining. Pin.

Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Place the Main Base and Base Lining wrong sides together. Pin. 

Baste together using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Open up the bias binding. Place the binding onto one short side of the Base leaving a 3-inch tail.

NOTE – Place the binding so there will be a 4-inch unsewn gap between where you start stitching the binding and where the binding will end.

Using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, start stitching at the end of the 3-inch tail. Stitch until ⅜ inch from the edge of the Base.

NOTE – The pictures used are from a different pattern, however, the techniques are the same.

Fold the binding away from the Base. 

Place a finger on the fold to keep it in place.

Fold the binding back over itself towards the Base, keeping the straight edges aligned. Pin.

Using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, stitch the long edge stopping ⅜ inch from the edge.

Repeat steps 2.10 to 2.11 to continue attaching the binding to the Base.

NOTE – Leave a 4-inch space.

Pinch the binding together at the 4-inch gap so that each side sits flush.

Place a pin where the binding from both sides meets in the middle.

NOTE – The binding should meet at the center of the 4-inch unsewn gap from step 2.13.

Gently pull the binding away from the Base. 

Stitch the two pieces of binding together.

Trim off the excess binding.

Stitch the binding to the Base, closing the gap.

Fold the bias binding over the raw edge, covering the stitching. At the corners, fold the bias tape under so it forms a diagonal. Pin.

Then stitch in the ditch along the seam.

This is where the stitching goes exactly on top of a previous seam.

If you are adding Eyelets for OPTION A or OPTION C, insert them now at the markings according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once you have inserted the eyelets, skip to step 2.22. 

If you are doing OPTION B, skip to step 2.22. 

If you are doing the OPTION D and adding the D-ring, follow below.

OPTION D, adding the D-ring: Find and mark the center point of the Base top edge and the D-ring Tab. 

Aligning the center points, pin the D-ring Tab onto the Outside of the Base. The Tab edge should be ¾ inch from the Base edge (just above the closure hook tape). 

Stitch a ½ inch by 1 ½ inch rectangle for the large and a ⅜ inch by ⅞ inch rectangle for the small on the bottom edges of the Tab. Stitch diagonally across to make an X in the middle for additional strength.

Place the closure loop tape (fuzzy part) on the outer side of the Base at the marking (1 ⅜ inch from the raw edge).

TIP – Before attaching the loop tape, place the pouches onto the base and check that the placement of the closure loop tape is correct for your organizer. If needed, adjust the placement. 

Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Handle, skip to step 3. 

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Handle, your Roll-Up Hanging Organizer is finished! 

Fold Handle in half right sides together and pin one short and the long edge.  

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Clip the corner to reduce the bulk. Make little snips into the seam allowance at the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitching. 

Turn right side out. 

Fold the raw edge in ¼ inch towards the inside and press.

Topstitch all the way around using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Place the Handle onto Main Base at the pattern markings. Pin.

Stitch a ½ inch by ¾ inch rectangle on the large, and a ¾ inch by ½ inch rectangle on the small, on each end of the Handle. Stitch diagonally across each of the rectangles to make a X in the middle for additional strength.

NOTE – This rectangle gives more strength to the Handle than just stitching or basting across the edge. It will be visible in the final roll-up organizer; however, it is recommended if going for a stronger option.

Your Roll-Up Hanging Organizer is Finished!