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Home / Womens / Foundation, Garments, Intimates, Lingerie
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
15
Women's Shapewear
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Sew perfectly-fitting shapewear in a few hours! Smooth, discreet, and comfortable, the Shapewear Sewing Pattern features two style options, two waist options, leg and waist elastic, and optional interlining for additional support, and minimal seams.
Includes sizes XXS-5XL
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – If you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct hip measurement. Then, grade out or in through the side front and back to the correct waist size. Then, do the same for hips.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this shapewear:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Cut out all pieces and label them with tailors chalk / fabric pen. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Waist elastic – If you are enclosing it, use ⅜ inch wide elastic. If you are leaving it exposed use any width soft plush backed lingerie elastic or regular elastic. Approximately 1.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Shorts hem elastic – If you are enclosing it, use ⅜ inch wide elastic. If you are leaving it exposed use any width soft plush backed lingerie elastic or regular elastic. Approximately 1.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Briefs hem elastic – you will need ⅜ inch wide elastic. Approximately 1.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Interlining cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interlining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Gusset – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Interlining cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Shorts:
- Leg – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interlining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Leg Panel – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interlining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewShapewear Shorts & Briefs
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Sew yourself some shaping under garments, perfect for flattening, smoothing, and enhancing your hourglass look. Designed with a center front panel, gusset and inner thigh panel and minimal seams. The high-rise option will cinch in your middle and create a streamlined and slim silhouette. Sew a mid-thigh length short option or as regular briefs. The legs and waist finished with elastic for additional support.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Shorts inseam
Gusset length
Mid-waist
High waist
Leg opening
Center front
Center back
Center front
Center back
Briefs OPTION
Shorts OPTION
XXS
17.0
24.5
7.0
4.0
10.2
12.0
14.0
15.5
16.0
13.2
XS
18.3
26.0
7.0
4.0
10.6
12.2
14.3
16.0
17.2
13.7
S
19.0
27.3
7.0
4.0
11.2
12.6
14.6
16.2
18.5
14.6
M
20.5
28.7
7.0
4.0
11.5
13.2
15.0
16.7
20.0
15.2
L
22.0
30.2
7.0
4.0
12.2
13.6
15.7
17.2
21.1
16.0
XL
24.0
32.3
7.0
4.0
12.6
14.2
16.3
18.0
22.6
16.7
XXL
26.0
34.5
7.0
4.0
13.2
15.0
17.0
18.5
24.1
17.6
3XL
28.5
36.6
7.0
4.0
14.6
16.0
18.1
19.5
26.0
18.5
4XL
31.2
39.0
7.0
4.0
15.2
16.6
18.7
20.2
27.1
19.3
5XL
34.1
41.0
7.0
4.0
16.2
17.7
19.7
21.2
28.6
20.2
Fitting NotesThe mid-waist sits at your natural waist. The high waist sits at the first rib.
Materials and ToolsFabric – You will need a stretch/knit fabric with at least 30% stretch. If you would like a higher compression fit use a tricot, power mesh or a high spandex athletic or swim knit. If you are sewing the shapewear for a smoothing fit, use a cotton spandex or a lower percentage spandex athletic or swim knit.
Lining fabric – You can use the same fabric as above, or a cotton knit or cotton spandex for the gusset.
OPTIONAL Interlining – If you would like extra support or compression you can add a layer of interlining. We recommend using power mesh. You can also use tricot or a second layer of your main fabric if it isn’t too bulky.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Briefs
Shorts
Mid-waist
High waist
Mid-waist
High waist
XXS
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
XS
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
S
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
M
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.75
L
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.75
XL
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.75
XXL
0.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
3XL
0.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
4XL
0.75
0.75
0.75
1.00
5XL
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pattern OPTIONAL
ShortsXXS – L 2-9 5-11 XL – 5XL 2-9 5-12 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Pattern OPTIONAL
ShortsXXS – S 2-9 5-11 M – 3XL 2-9 5-12 4XL – 5XL 2-9 5-12 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Waist elastic Low Waist
(cut 1)Waist elastic High Waist
(cut 1)Shorts OPTION elastic (cut 2)
Briefs OPTION (cut 2)
Length
Length
Length
Length
XXS
19.7
17.6
13.0
15.0
XS
21.2
19.1
13.6
16.0
S
21.7
19,6
14.1
17.1
M
23.2
21.1
15.0
18.6
L
24.7
22.6
15.7
19.7
XL
26.7
24.6
16.6
21.5
XXL
28.7
26.6
17.5
22.7
3XL
31.2
29.1
18.5
24.6
4XL
34.1
32.0
19.2
25.7
5XL
36.3
34.5
19.7
27.5
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL INTERLINING – Baste all main and interlining pieces together. Treat them as one piece.
- FRONT – Stitch Front and a Back right sides together matching the front seam. Press seam to side. Repeat steps to attach second Back to other side of Front.
- BACK – Stitch Back pieces right sides together at center back seam. Press seam towards wearer’s left.
- GUSSET – Sandwich Main Gusset right sides down, shapewear right side up, Gusset Lining right side up. Stitch. Flip Gusset down. Press. Roll waist edge down. Pin bottom edge of Gusset Lining to Back. Wrap Main Gusset over Back, right sides together. Stitch. Pull right side out. Press seam.
- SHORTS OPTION: LEGS – Lay Leg right side facing up. Place Leg Panel right side facing down, matching short side. Stitch. Press seam towards Leg. Match other side of Leg Panel to long side of Leg, right sides together. Stitch. Press seam towards Leg. Repeat for second leg.
- SHORTS OPTION: ATTACHING LEGS – Turn shapewear wrong sides out. Slide Leg inside opening, right sides together, matching pattern marking on Leg to front seam. Pin. Match front seam of Leg to front seam of Gusset. Pin. Pin back seam of Leg to back seam of Gusset. Continue pinning, matching raw edges, without stretching. Stitch. Press seam. Repeat to attach the second leg.
- EXPOSED ELASTIC OPTION – Stitch exposed elastic to waist. SHORTS OPTION: Repeat if adding to leg openings.
- ENCLOSED ELASTIC OPTION – BRIEFS OPTION: Stitch enclosed elastic to leg openings. Repeat to add to waist. SHORTS OPTION: Repeat to add to leg openings.
- If you have sewn the Briefs OPTION with exposed elastic for the waist only, follow steps 7.1 to 7.5 to add enclosed elastic to the leg openings.
- If you have sewn the Briefs OPTION, follow steps 7.1 to 7.12 to add enclosed elastic to the leg openings and the waist.
- If you have sewn the Shorts OPTION with exposed elastic for the waist only, follow step 7.13 to add enclosed elastic to the leg hems.
- If you have sewn the Shorts OPTION, follow steps 7.6 to 7.13 to add enclosed elastic to the waist and leg hems.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Interlining
Place the Center Front interlining and Main Center Front wrong sides together. Pin.
Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
This will now be treated as one piece.
Repeat for any other pieces you would like interlined.
1 . Front1.1Place the Front and a Back right sides together matching the front seam. Pin.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.3Press the seam towards the side.
1.4OPTIONAL – From the right side of the fabric, topstitch along seam allowance using a twin needle, a zig zag stitch, or a stretch stitch.
1.5Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach the second Back piece to the other side of the Front piece.
2 . Back2.1Place the Back pieces right sides together at the center back seam. Pin.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.3Press the seam towards the wearer’s left side.
2.4OPTIONAL – From the right side of the fabric, topstitch along seam allowance using a twin needle, a zig zag stitch, or a stretch stitch.
3 . Gusset3.1Lay the shapewear with the Front side right side up. Place the Main Gusset right side down, matching the front edges. Pin.
3.2Flip the top edge up onto the Front. Place the Gusset Lining right side facing to wrong side of shapewear, matching the front edge. Pin.
This creates a sandwich of the Main Gusset right sides down, shapewear right side up, and Gusset Lining right side up.
3.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.4Flip the Gusset down. Press the seam.
3.5Roll the waist edge of the shapewear down. Take the back edge of the Gusset Lining and pin it to the bottom edge of the Back.
3.6Take the Main Gusset and wrap it over the Back, right sides together, matching back edges. Pin.
3.7Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.8Pull the shapewear right side out.
3.9Press the seam.
If you are sewing the Shorts OPTION, follow below. If you are sewing the Briefs OPTION, skip to step 6 for exposed elastic, or to step 7 for enclosed elastic.
4 . Shorts OPTION: Legs4.1Lay the Leg right side facing up. Place the Leg Panel right side facing down, matching the short side. Pin.
NOTE – This is the back seam.
4.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.3Press the seam towards the Leg.
4.4OPTIONAL – From the right side of the fabric, topstitch along seam allowance using a twin needle, a zig zag stitch, or a stretch stitch.
4.5Match the other side of the Leg Panel to the long side of the Leg, right sides together, creating a tube. Pin.
NOTE – This is the front seam.
4.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.7Press the seam towards the Leg.
NOTE – This should be in the opposite direction of step 4.3.
4.8OPTIONAL – From the right side of the fabric, topstitch along seam allowance using a twin needle, a zig zag stitch, or a stretch stitch.
4.9Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.8 for the second leg.
5 . Shorts OPTION: Attaching Legs5.1Turn the shapewear wrong sides out. Slide the Leg inside the opening, right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Leg to the front seam. Pin.
5.2Match the front seam of the Leg (sewn in step 4.5) to the front seam of the Gusset. Pin.
TIP – Nest these seams by pointing them in opposite directions (as they were pressed) to reduce bulk.
5.3Repeat step 5.2 pinning the back seam (sewn in step 4.2) of the Leg to the back seam of the Gusset.
5.4Continue pinning in between these three pins, matching raw edges, without stretching, until there are enough pins to be comfortable for sewing.
5.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.6Press the seam.
5.7Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 to attach the second leg.
6 . Exposed Elastic OPTION6.0If you aren’t finishing the shapewear with plush back or wide elastic, skip to step 7 for the enclosed elastic OPTION. This step is the same for mid or high waist.
NOTE – We do not recommend using plush back or wide elastic to finish the leg openings unless you’re sewing the Shorts options.
6.1Overlap the short ends of the waist elastic by ½ inch to form a circle and pin.
TIP – Stretch and relax the elastic a few times before pinning.
6.2Stitch together using a zig zag or serger stitch.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the waist of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably. The type of elastic you use may mean you need to adjust the lengths. Adjust as needed.
6.3Find and mark the quarter points of the elastic.
6.4Find and mark the quarter points of the waist of the shapewear.
6.5Place the elastic over the waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin.
6.6Serge or stitch the elastic to the shapewear.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
6.7Flip the elastic right side facing up. Pin.
TIP – If you are working with thicker fabric, you can trim the fabric along the seam before turning the elastic. This will help reduce to bulk.
6.8Topstitch the waist elastic using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
If you are sewing the Shorts OPTION with exposed elastic, repeat steps 6.1 to 6.8 for the leg hems.
7 . Enclosed Elastic OPTION7.0This step is the same for mid or high waist.
7.1BRIEFS OPTION: Place the elastic onto the wrong side of leg opening, matching the elastic to the stitched edge.
Starting at the front, without stretching the elastic, pin it between the side seam and the Front and Back seam.
Pin the elastic along the back, stretching it slightly to match. Overlap the elastic by ½ inch.
TIP – Stretch and relax the elastic a couple times before pinning.
7.2Stitch the elastic to the Shapewear with a zig zag or serger stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
7.3Fold the leg opening over to the inside the width of the elastic. Pin.
TIP – If you are working with thicker fabric, you can trim the fabric along the seam before turning the elastic. This will help reduce to bulk.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
7.4Topstitch along the edge of the elastic.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
7.5Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.4 for the other leg opening.
If you have sewn exposed elastic at the waist, your Shapewear is finished!
7.6BRIEFS OR SHORTS OPTION: Overlap the short ends of the waist elastic ½ inch to form a circle and pin.
7.7Stitch together using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the waist of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably. The type of elastic you use may mean you need to adjust the lengths. Adjust as needed.
7.8Mark the quarter points of the elastic and the waist edge of the Shorts/Briefs hem.
7.9Place the elastic inside the Shorts/Briefs at the waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points and the raw edge of the elastic to the raw edge of the hem. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin.
7.10Stitch the elastic to the shapewear with a zig zag or serger stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
7.11Fold the waist opening over to the inside by the width of the elastic. Pin.
7.12Topstitch along the edge of the elastic.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
Your Shapewear is finished!
7.13SHORTS OPTION: Repeat steps 7.6 to 7.12 to attach the elastic to each leg hem.
Your Shapewear is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Shapewear Shorts & Briefs is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpshapewear.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewShapewear Shorts & Briefs
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Sew yourself some shaping under garments, perfect for flattening, smoothing, and enhancing your hourglass look. Designed with a center front panel, gusset and inner thigh panel and minimal seams. The high-rise option will cinch in your middle and create a streamlined and slim silhouette. Sew a mid-thigh length short option or as regular briefs. The legs and waist finished with elastic for additional support.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Shorts inseam
Gusset length
Mid-waist
High waist
Leg opening
Center front
Center back
Center front
Center back
Briefs OPTION
Shorts OPTION
XXS
17.0
24.5
7.0
4.0
10.2
12.0
14.0
15.5
16.0
13.2
XS
18.3
26.0
7.0
4.0
10.6
12.2
14.3
16.0
17.2
13.7
S
19.0
27.3
7.0
4.0
11.2
12.6
14.6
16.2
18.5
14.6
M
20.5
28.7
7.0
4.0
11.5
13.2
15.0
16.7
20.0
15.2
L
22.0
30.2
7.0
4.0
12.2
13.6
15.7
17.2
21.1
16.0
XL
24.0
32.3
7.0
4.0
12.6
14.2
16.3
18.0
22.6
16.7
XXL
26.0
34.5
7.0
4.0
13.2
15.0
17.0
18.5
24.1
17.6
3XL
28.5
36.6
7.0
4.0
14.6
16.0
18.1
19.5
26.0
18.5
4XL
31.2
39.0
7.0
4.0
15.2
16.6
18.7
20.2
27.1
19.3
5XL
34.1
41.0
7.0
4.0
16.2
17.7
19.7
21.2
28.6
20.2
Materials and ToolsFabric – You will need a stretch/knit fabric with at least 30% stretch. If you would like a higher compression fit use a tricot, power mesh or a high spandex athletic or swim knit. If you are sewing the shapewear for a smoothing fit, use a cotton spandex or a lower percentage spandex athletic or swim knit.
Lining fabric – You can use the same fabric as above, or a cotton knit or cotton spandex for the gusset.
OPTIONAL Interlining – If you would like extra support or compression you can add a layer of interlining. We recommend using power mesh. You can also use tricot or a second layer of your main fabric if it isn’t too bulky.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Briefs
Shorts
Mid-waist
High waist
Mid-waist
High waist
XXS
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
XS
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
S
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
M
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.75
L
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.75
XL
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.75
XXL
0.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
3XL
0.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
4XL
0.75
0.75
0.75
1.00
5XL
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Waist elastic – If you are enclosing it, use ⅜ inch wide elastic. If you are leaving it exposed use any width soft plush backed lingerie elastic or regular elastic. Approximately 1.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Shorts hem elastic – If you are enclosing it, use ⅜ inch wide elastic. If you are leaving it exposed use any width soft plush backed lingerie elastic or regular elastic. Approximately 1.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Briefs hem elastic – you will need ⅜ inch wide elastic. Approximately 1.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.