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Home / Womens / Bottoms, Garments, Pants
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
13
Woman's Slim Fit Cargos
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
These on-trend cargo pants have a slim fit design with a flat back waistband and standard fly. There is are optional back and thigh pockets as well as an optional ankle slit.
Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Waist – These are high waisted Pants and will sit just below your natural waist. This means that some of your height adjustment might need to be along the rise. Measure your front and back rise and compare it to the above chart. You can achieve your best fit by adjusting along the rise as well as throughout the legs.
- Stretch direction – For some stretch woven fabrics, the stretch runs down the selvedge, rather than across. If you find your stretch is running down the selvedge, you will need to turn your pattern to accommodate for this change. Double check to make sure you cut your patterns with the stretch going from hip to hip, and not hip to knee.
- Length – The trouser legs are designed to be slightly too long. The slit at the bottom of the trouser is designed to sit onto the shoe or just skimming the floor. That said, every individual has slightly different leg proportions so it’s advisable to do a muslin to check if you need to lengthen or shorten the trouser leg before cutting into your final fabric.
- Inseam – Before your muslin, it is a great idea to measure your inseam. It is helpful to have a friend help you out with this. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of your leg. Since this Pant is intended to be quite long, you’ll measure all the way to the floor. Compare this measurement to the Inside Leg on the finished measurement chart to help make adjustments for height.
- Height – These trousers are designed to fit a height of 5 foot 6.
- All humans vary in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any fitted Pant pattern (see below) to adjust to your personal body.
- If you need to lengthen or shorten, follow the advice below on crotch fitting to adjust at the crotch area, then also adjust using the lengthen/shorten lines part way down the leg.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted Pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork, for back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Grading – Sizes XXS – L have been drafted and graded separately to XL – 5XL, so you may notice there is a slight shape difference on some pattern pieces that. This is to ensure that with such a wide size range, that the pattern can still offer a great fit. Just measure and print the size/s you require. You’ll still need to add any personal adjustments you know suit your body best (such as a full bottom or crotch depth adjustment) and for this we highly recommend a making a muslin for fitted Pants such as these.
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Fitted Pants can be a bit of an art but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front and back legs, clip or pin together at the waist and try on.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Iron-on stretch interfacing – ¼ yard will be plenty for all sizes
- 6-inch zipper
- 1x 1-inch-wide button
- Thread to match
- 2x Front (1x mirror image pair)
- 2x Back (1x mirror image pair)
- 2x Waistband (1x outer fabric, 1x lining – either in the 3-piece waistband or in the 1-piece waistband)
- 1x Fly Extension
- 1x Fly Guard
- 2x Pocket Bag (1x mirror image pair)
- 2x Pocket (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL – 2x Side Pocket
- OPTIONAL – 4x Side Pocket Flap
- OPTIONAL – 2x Back Pocket
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewSlim Fit Cargos
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
These slim fit cargo Pants are gorgeously trendy and comfortable. There are optional back and thigh Pockets, and a slit at the base of the leg.
The child’s version has an adjustable elasticated back waist and faux fly. The ladies version has a flat back Waistband and a standard fly.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Front rise
Back rise
Inside leg
Approx. thigh
Approx. calf
XXS
25.9
34.6
8.7
13.1
32.5
19.2
9.0
XS
27.9
36.8
9.0
13.2
32.5
20.1
10.0
S
28.9
38.6
9.2
13.5
32.5
20.6
10.4
M
30.9
40.4
9.5
13.7
32.5
21.2
11.0
L
32.9
42.4
10.0
14.2
32.5
22.3
12.0
XL
35.9
45.2
10.2
14.5
33.0
24.0
13.0
XXL
38.9
48.2
10.7
15.2
33.0
25.4
14.0
3XL
42.6
51.0
11.5
15.7
33.0
26.8
15.0
4XL
46.5
54.0
12.1
16.5
33.0
28.1
15.6
5XL
50.5
57.0
12.5
17.0
33.0
29.4
16.6
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsThese Pants will be their most comfy, with the best fit, in a woven fabric with 30% stretch. Be on the lookout for bottom weight woven, with spandex or lycra included. You can also use a more stable knit fabric, also with 30% stretch. Just be aware, if you use knit instead of woven, your Pants will have a bit more movement when you move.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
XXS – M
2.00
L – XL
2.25
XXL – 5XL
3.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Cargos OPTIONAL
Side
PocketsOPTIONAL
Back
PocketsXXS 2-14, 16-21, 24-27, 30-33 34 28-29 XS – L 2-14, 16-21, 23-27, 30-33 34 28-29 XL 2-21, 23-24, 27-28, 30-33 34 28-29 XXL – 5XL 2-28, 30-33 34 28-29 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Cargos OPTIONAL
Side
PocketsOPTIONAL
Back
PocketsXXS 2-14, 16-21, 24-27, 30-33 34 28-29 XS – L 2-14, 16-21, 23-27, 30-33 34 28-29 XL – 3XL 2-24, 30-33 34 28-29 4XL 2-25, 28, 30-33 34 28-29 5XL 2-25, 27-28, 30-33 34 28-29 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
NOTE – The Waistband for ladies sizes XXS to L is cut in one long piece. The Waistband for ladies sizes XL to 5XL is cut in 3 pieces which join at the side seams. This is to ensure pattern pieces fit easily and economically on your fabric. However, should you wish to cut the XL to 5XL Waistband in one piece, the dimensions required are below.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Pocket
Back Pocket
Side Pocket
Pocket flap
Width
Height
Width
Height
Height
Width
XXS
5.7
7.2
5.7
7.9
3.6
6.1
XS
5.9
7.3
5.8
7.9
3.6
6.2
S
6.1
7.4
5.9
7.9
3.6
6.3
M
6.3
7.5
6.0
7.9
3.6
6.4
L
6.5
7.7
6.1
7.9
3.6
6.5
XL
6.8
7.8
6.2
7.9
3.6
6.6
XXL
7.0
8.0
6.3
7.9
3.6
6.8
3XL
7.3
8.2
6.4
7.9
3.6
7.0
4XL
7.6
8.4
6.5
7.9
3.6
7.2
5XL
7.9
8.6
6.6
7.9
3.6
7.4
Waistband (cut either in 3 pieces or in 1 piece)
3 Piece waistband (cut 2 of each)
Single piece waistband (cut 2)
Front right
Front left
Back
Width
Height
Width
Height
Width
Height
Width
Height
XXS
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
28.3
3.0
XS
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
30.3
3.0
S
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
31.3
3.0
M
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
33.3
3.0
L
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
35.3
3.0
XL
12.6
3.2
10.9
3.2
20.9
3.2
38.3
3.2
XXL
13.4
3.2
11.7
3.2
22.5
3.2
41.3
3.2
3XL
14.2
3.2
12.5
3.2
24.0
3.2
45.0
3.2
4XL
15.0
3.2
13.3
3.2
25.6
3.2
48.9
3.2
5XL
15.8
3.2
14.1
3.2
27.2
3.2
52.9
3.2
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or chalk.
- STAYSTITCH – Staystitch the top edge of the front and back pieces.
- INTERFACING – Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the Waistband piece.
- WAISTBAND – If you have a 3-piece waistband, sew the front pieces to the back piece along the short edges.
- BACK DARTS – Stitch all darts as marked.
- BACK POCKETS (OPTIONAL) – Create the top edge of the Pocket by folding ¼ inch to the wrong side, then 1 inch to the right side and a ½ inch seam allowance from the top edge. Repeat for the other side of the Pocket. Clip the corners and turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. Fold the raw side edges under ¼ inch. Fold the bottom edge of the Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side twice. Topstitch close to the folded edge at the top of the Pocket. Attach the back Pocket to the back leg, topstitching along the sides and bottom. Repeat for the other back Pocket.
- FRONT POCKETS – Finish the curved edge on the outside of the front leg piece, the curved edges of the Pocket bag and the curved edge of the Pocket pieces. With the Pocket bag on the front leg piece right sides together, stitch along the curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Flip the Pocket bag to the back of the front leg piece and topstitch along the curved edge. With the right sides together, stitch the Pocket to the Pocket bag using a ½ inch seam allowance. Baste the Pocket to the front leg piece along both the top and sides. Repeat for the other side.
- ZIPPER FLY – Fold the Fly Guard in half wrong sides together. Finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard, and the curved edge of the fly extension by serging or using a zig zag stitch. Place your Fly Guard with the finished edge to the right. Then, place the zipper face up on top of the Fly Guard and pin along the finished edge. Stitch the zipper to the Fly Guard. Finish off the rise seam of the front leg piece from the top down to the marking. Repeat for the other leg. Place the front legs with the right sides together. Stitch from the marking down to the end of the rise seam with a ½ inch seam allowance. Open the Pants legs and press the seam allowance on the left legs rise seam ½ inch toward the wrong side. Place the zipper and Fly Guard right side up and then place the left leg on top of the zipper. Pin the folded edge to the zipper and Fly Guard. Topstitch close to the folded edge using a zipper foot. With the right sides together, pin the fly extension to the right leg. Stitch using a ½ seam allowance. Flip the fly extension to the wrong side of the right leg and press. Pin the right leg over the left leg so that none of the topstitching on the left side is showing. Turn the front legs over so that the wrong side is up. Sew the zipper to the fly extension, but not through the Pants leg. Pin the Fly Guard to the left leg so that it is out of the way. Mark the front of the Pants where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly. Topstitch the marking. Turn the Pants over so the wrong side is up and unpin the Fly Guard. Stitch the Fly Guard to the fly extension along the bottom edge.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Clip the seam allowance of the front rise seam below the fly as close to the stitching as possible. Stitch a flat felled seam on the front rise. Repeat a flat felled seam on the back rise with the back leg pieces
- OUTER LEG SEAMS – Use a flat felled seam to attach the front and back legs, stopping at the slit if you’re doing the optional split seams.
- SIDE POCKETS (OPTIONAL) – Prepare the side Pockets as with the back Pockets in step 1. Stitch two Pocket flaps right sides together, leaving a 2-inch opening. Clip the corners and turn right side out and topstitch. Center the flap ½ inch above the side Pocket and topstitch along the top edge. Repeat for the other side Pocket.
- SIDE SEAM SPLIT – Press the side seam split flat. Fold the seam under ¼ inch so that the raw edge is now enclosed and pin. Repeat for the other side of the split. Stitch up one side of the split close to the folded edge, then stitch across and down the other side of the split.
- INNER LEG SEAM – With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the front legs to the back legs along the inseam. Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends. Trim the seam allowances approximately in half. Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold. Stitch again approx. ¼ inch from the edge. Press. R
- WAISTBAND – Press the non-interfaced Waistband ½ inch to the wrong side. Place the Waistband pieces with the right sides together and stitch up the short edge, along the long edge that is not folded and down the other short edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Clip the corners and turn the Waistband right side out. Place the right side of the interfaced Waistband on the inside of the Pants and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn the Waistband right side out topstitch all the way around the waistband. Stitch a button hole at the marking. Attach a button or popper/snap at the marking.
- HEM – Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Repeat. Stitch to secure.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0NOTE – The child’s and ladies versions are very similar, however the child’s does not have a back dart and has a faux fly rather than a real fly.
If you are making both, make sure to check you’re following the correct instructions.
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or chalk.
0.2Staystitching
Stay stitch along the top of the front and back pieces ¼ inch from the edge. If you haven’t done staystitching before, this is a long loose straight stitch used to stop fabric from stretching out of shape while you are working with it. It ensures the fabric doesn’t stretch to be too big for the Waistband before you attach it. Lengthen your stitch to as long as possible and leave the threads loose at each end so you can pull to remove them later.
0.3Waistband
If you cut your Waistband in 3 pieces (sizes XL to 5XL), now we need to join them into one piece. Place the front left piece right sides together with the back piece and stitch down one short side using a ½ inch seam allowance. Place the front right piece right sides together with the other short end of the back and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press seams open. Mark the front right piece with an x on the wrong side. This will help when you are prepping to attach the Waistband to your Pants.
0.4Interfacing
Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of one of the Waistband pieces.
1 . Back Darts1.1With right sides together, fold the fabric of one back skirt down the centerline of one dart. Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart.
TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead, leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.
1.2Press the dart towards the center back of the Pants.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 for the other back leg piece.
2 . Back Pockets (OPTIONAL)2.0If you are doing the optional back Pockets, follow below. Otherwise, skip to step 3.
2.1Fold the top edge of the Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
2.2Fold the fabric 1 inch to the right side and press.
2.3Stitch from the top edge to the folded edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the Pocket.
2.4Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner.
2.5Turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. When you turn it, the sides will fold in ½ inch on each side. Press.
2.6Fold the raw edge on the side under ¼ inch and press. Repeat for the other side of the Pocket.
2.7Fold the bottom edge of the Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side, twice, and press.
2.8Topstitch close to the folded edge at the top of the Pocket.
NOTE – You will be using the same steps to make part of the side Pockets in step 6.
2.9Place the back Pocket on your back leg piece using the pattern markings.
2.10Topstitch along the side of the Pocket, across the bottom and up the other side.
OPTIONAL – You can sew a triangle at the corners for extra stability and security.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.10 for the other back Pocket.
3 . Front Pockets3.1Finish the curved edge on the outside of the front leg piece by serging or using a zig zag stitch.
3.2Finish off the curved edges of the Pocket bag and the Pocket pieces.
3.3Place the Pocket bag on the front leg piece with the right sides together and pin. Stitch along the curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.4Flip the Pocket bag to the back of the front leg piece and press.
TIP – If you find your curved edge bulky, you can clip your seam allowance along the curve before flipping the Pocket bag to the back.
3.5Topstitch along the curved edge.
3.6With the right sides together, pin the Pocket to the Pocket bag. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.7Baste the Pocket to the front leg piece along both the top and sides.
NOTE – A basting stitch is a long, loose stitch that is used to temporarily tack the pieces together.
NOTE – Treat the Pockets and leg front as one piece from now on.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 for the other side.
TIP – If you find Pockets gape while wearing them, you can tack down about 1 inch from the top of your Pocket, along your topstitching lines. This doesn’t affect the fit of the Pocket but will help prevent gaping.
4 . Zipper Fly4.0The following steps show the zipper fly opening to the left, which is traditionally the way the women’s zipper fly is oriented. If you want your zipper fly to open to the right, you will need to complete the steps by sewing on the opposite side.
4.1Fold the Fly Guard in half with the wrong sides together and press.
4.2Finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard by serging or using a zig zag stitch.
4.3Finish the curved edge of the fly extension.
4.4Place your Fly Guard with the finished edge to the right. Then, place the zipper face up on top of the Fly Guard and pin along the finished edge.
4.5Stitch the zipper to the Fly Guard.
NOTE – You do not need to sew close to the zipper teeth, you just need to make sure the zipper is stitched to the Fly Guard.
4.6Finish off the rise seam of one front leg piece from the top edge, down to the small notch marking on the pattern (marked in blue in this photo). Use either a serger or a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to just finish the edge.
Repeat for the other leg.
4.7Place the front legs with the right sides together and pin. Stitch from the marking down to the end of the front rise seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.8Open out the Pants legs and press the seam allowance on the left legs rise seam ½ inch toward the wrong side.
TIP – It can be helpful to press a scant ½ inch, so the overlap needed in the following steps is a bit easier.
4.9Place the zipper and Fly Guard right side up and then place the left leg on top of the zipper. Pin the folded edge to the zipper and Fly Guard.
4.10Topstitch close to the folded edge using a zipper foot.
4.11With the right sides together, pin the fly extension to the right leg. Stitch using a ½ seam allowance.
4.12Flip the fly extension to the wrong side of the right leg and press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the fly extension in place.
4.13Pin the right leg over the left leg so that none of the topstitching on the left side is showing.
NOTE – You want your pins to be going vertically so that you can complete the next step.
4.14Turn the front legs over so that the wrong side is up. You will be sewing the zipper to the fly extension, but not through the Pants leg. Pin the zipper to the fly extension and stitch.
NOTE – You do not need to sew close to the zipper teeth, you just need to make sure the zipper is stitched to the fly extension.
4.15Pin the Fly Guard so to the left leg so that it is out of the way for the next step.
4.16Mark the front of the Pants where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly. You can do this by feeling for the fly extension and then marking with a piece of chalk or washable marker. Topstitch where you have marked.
TIP – The back flap of some zipper packages has a guide you can use to mark your Pants for this topstitching. If yours has this, just cut the cardboard flap away from your zipper package and then use it as a template.
4.17Turn the Pants over so the wrong side is up. Unpin the Fly Guard. Stitch the Fly Guard to the fly extension along the overlap on the bottom edge.
5 . Front and Back Rise5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the back leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the rise seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press to the side. Repeat for the rise seam on the front legs below the zipper fly. Then skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do flat felled seams to stitch the rise seams together. Flat felled seams hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
5.1Clip the seam allowance of the rise seam below the zipper fly. You will be clipping as close to the stitching as possible.
5.2Trim the seam allowance on the right side of the seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the left.
NOTE – If you chose to have your zipper fly opening to the right, you will be trimming the seam allowance on the left. All of the rest of the steps will be opposite.
5.3Press the left seam allowance over the right.
5.4Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin.
5.5Topstitch close to the folded edge.
NOTE – The topstitching should meet the end of the curved stitching on the front of the Pants.
5.6Place the back legs with the right sides together and pin along the rise seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.7Trim the seam allowance on the left side of the rise seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the right.
NOTE – You are trimming the opposite side of what you did on step 5.2. This is so the stitching on both seams will match up when you stitch the front and backs together.
5.8Press the right seam allowance over the left.
5.9Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin.
5.10Topstitch close to the folded edge.
6 . Outer Leg Seams6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the front and back leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the outer leg and serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. If you are doing the optional split seams, stop serging when you reach the slit. Press the seam to the back. Then, skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do flat felled seams to stitch the front and back of the leg together at the outer leg seams. Flat felled seams hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
6.1Place the front legs and the back legs with the right sides together and pin down the outer leg seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
If you are doing the optional split seams, stop when you reach the slit. If not, skip to step 6.3.
6.2Clip into the seam allowance above the side seam split. Clip as close to the stitching as possible.
Aim to clip horizontally straight into the seam to where your stitching finishes. It should be horizontal right next to the piece of fabric that sticks out that will become your vent.
6.3Trim the seam allowance on the back leg in half.
Do not trim the seam allowance on the front leg. Do not trim past the clip you just cut for the vent. Make sure you are only trimming the seam allowance from the back leg in half, from the top, down to the clip you did at the top of the vent. You should only ever be cutting through one layer of fabric.
6.4Press the front leg seam allowance over the back leg seam allowance.
6.5Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin.
6.6Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.6 for the other outer leg seam.
NOTE – The second outer leg seam will be a little trickier, because you will not be able to lay the Pants flat anymore. Just make sure that you keep the rest of the Pants out of the way as you sew the seam.
NOTE – You may choose to add the side seam Pocket from step 8 to the first outer leg seam before sewing the second outer leg seam.
7 . Side Pockets (OPTIONAL)7.0If you are doing the optional side Pockets, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 8.
7.1Fold the top edge of the Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
7.2Fold the fabric 1 inch to the right side and press.
7.3Stitch from the top edge to the folded edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the Pocket.
7.4Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner.
7.5Turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. When you turn it, the sides will fold in ½ inch on each side. Press.
7.6Fold the raw edge on the side under ¼ inch and press. Repeat for the other side of the Pocket.
7.7Fold the bottom edge of the Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side, twice, and press.
7.8Topstitch close to the folded edge at the top of the Pocket.
7.9Place the side Pocket on the outer leg seam using the pattern markings.
The top of the Pocket should align with the notch on the front and back leg side seams. Center the Pocket horizontally over the side seam.
7.10Topstitch along the side of the Pocket, across the bottom, and up the other side.
7.11Place two of the Pocket flap pieces with the right sides together. Stitch around all four edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch opening for turning.
7.12Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner.
7.13Turn right side out and press.
7.14Topstitch down the short edge, along the bottom edge, and up the other short edge.
7.15Pin the flap above the side Pocket, aligning it so it is centered horizontally over the Pocket, with the top edge ½ inch above the top of the Pocket.
7.16Topstitch the flap to the leg along the top edge.
Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.16 for the other side Pocket.
8 . Side Seam Split8.1Press the side seam split flat.
8.2Fold the seam under ¼ inch so that the raw edge is now enclosed and pin. Repeat for the other side of the split.
8.3Stitch up one side of the split close to the folded edge, then stitch across and down the other side of the split.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.3 for the other leg.
9 . Inner Leg Seam9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the front and back leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the inner leg seam and serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press to the back. Then skip to step 10.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the front and back of the leg together. French seams hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
9.1With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the front legs to the back legs along the inseam.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends.
9.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
9.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
9.4Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).
10 . Waistband10.1Press the bottom edge of the non-interfaced Waistband ½ inch to the wrong side.
TIP – For the 3-piece waistband, use that x we marked in the preparation step to determine your front right piece.
10.2Place the Waistband pieces with the right sides together and pin. Stitch up the short edge, along the long edge that is not folded and down the other short edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.3Clip the corners to prevent bulk and allow you to get crisp corners.
10.4Turn the Waistband right side out and press.
10.5Place the right side of the interfaced Waistband on the inside of the Pants and pin. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Your Waistband should fit the top of your cargos exactly. However if your fabric has stretched during construction, you may find you need to ease it on slightly. Start by pinning each end and the center, then divide each side into half and pin, then in half again and pin, and so on until it is evenly distributed along the waistband.
If any of your staystitching is visible from the outside of the garment, remove this now.
10.6Turn the Waistband right side out and pin.
10.7Topstitch all the way around the Waistband.
10.8Stitch a buttonhole at the marking on the Waistband.
10.9Stitch a button at the marking on the Waistband.
NOTE – You can also choose to use a popper/snap instead of a button. Attach the popper/snap at the marking.
11 . Hem11.1Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.
11.2Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.
11.3Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.3 for the other leg.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Slim Fit Cargos are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpslimfitcargos.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSlim Fit Cargos
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
These slim fit cargo Pants are gorgeously trendy and comfortable. There are optional back and thigh Pockets, and a slit at the base of the leg.
The child’s version has an adjustable elasticated back waist and faux fly. The ladies version has a flat back Waistband and a standard fly.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hips
Front rise
Back rise
Inside leg
Approx. thigh
Approx. calf
XXS
25.9
34.6
8.7
13.1
32.5
19.2
9.0
XS
27.9
36.8
9.0
13.2
32.5
20.1
10.0
S
28.9
38.6
9.2
13.5
32.5
20.6
10.4
M
30.9
40.4
9.5
13.7
32.5
21.2
11.0
L
32.9
42.4
10.0
14.2
32.5
22.3
12.0
XL
35.9
45.2
10.2
14.5
33.0
24.0
13.0
XXL
38.9
48.2
10.7
15.2
33.0
25.4
14.0
3XL
42.6
51.0
11.5
15.7
33.0
26.8
15.0
4XL
46.5
54.0
12.1
16.5
33.0
28.1
15.6
5XL
50.5
57.0
12.5
17.0
33.0
29.4
16.6
Materials and ToolsThese Pants will be their most comfy, with the best fit, in a woven fabric with 30% stretch. Be on the lookout for bottom weight woven, with spandex or lycra included. You can also use a more stable knit fabric, also with 30% stretch. Just be aware, if you use knit instead of woven, your Pants will have a bit more movement when you move.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
XXS – M
2.00
L – XL
2.25
XXL – 5XL
3.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Iron-on stretch interfacing – ¼ yard will be plenty for all sizes
- 6-inch zipper
- 1x 1-inch-wide button
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.