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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
17







Slip Sewing Pattern
Member Rating
Difficulty Level

Beginner
Equipment Needed


Description
Learn how to sew a versatile wardrobe staple with this slip sewing pattern. Features three length options, straps created by binding raw edges, and a lined and gathered bust. Pair with the Lingerie Shorts for a complete set.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size –
- Measure full bust and underbust. You will use these measurements to calculate your Cup size (see Measuring information above). Compare your underbust measurement to the finished measurement in the above chart. Select your Cup size from that measurement e.g. M.
- If you are between underbust sizes, choose your slip size by the bigger underbust measurement. Divide the difference of your underbust measurement by 4. Then grade the Front and Back Skirt side seam at the top edge by that measurement, smoothing down to meet the waist.
- Under bust adjustments – Busts can differ in shape and size. You may need to adjust the cup pieces for your personal fit. Make a muslin and adjust the pattern pieces as needed. The fit will also differ if you intend to wear a bra with it or not.
- Height adjustments – The pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you can add or remove length at different locations throughout the top. Follow this free tutorial to make the adjustments to the bodice.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for the Slip:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Cut out all pieces and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen.
- Baste the pieces together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy, then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out the basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so theyare a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 1x OPTIONAL Satin bow. You can create a tied bow to attach to the front or add a small satin bow.
- OPTIONAL ½ inch wide double fold bias binding – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Cups – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- NOTE – Select your Cup size as per the fitting notes and measurements above.
- Underbust Facing – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Front Skirt – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back Skirt – Fabric cut 1 on fold
Project OverviewSlip
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The elegant Slip is a timeless pattern designed to be worn under see-through garments. It can also be worn as a camisole, depending on the fabric used. The bust is gathered into the front skirt. The raw edges are bound with binding which creates the straps. There are three lengths to choose from: top, tunic or knee. Combine the Slip with the Lingerie Shorts for a complete lingerie or sleep set.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Measuring
There are four cup sizes available for the Slip. These are grouped together as A-C, D-G, H-K, L-M. You will need to select your Cup pieces from these sizes. See fitting notes below for further information.
You will need to determine your band size (underbust – yellow line) and cup size (full bust – blue line). We recommend measuring wearing an underwired supportive bra without padding.
The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. Cup sizes range from A – M. Please see the chart below (in INCHES) on how to calculate your cup size.
Cup size
Difference from underbust
A
1
B
2
C
3
D
4
E
5
F
6
G
7
H
8
I
9
J
10
K
11
L
12
M
13
Watch our video on how to measure your band and cup size.
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Fitting NotesThe skirt of the Slip is cut on the bias, creating a lovely drape. The cups are gathered into the underbust with the skirt flowing down over the hips.
Materials and ToolsFabrics – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this slip. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look in mind.
This pattern was originally designed to be worn under clothing as a traditional slip. If you would like to create this look, use a light or medium weight woven with a silky feel to it such as satin charmeuse, satin, silk crepe, crepe de chine, and silk. This will give the slip drape but will also allow the clothing worn over the top to lay nicely.
If you would like more of a camisole than a slip, use fabrics such as linen, cotton, rayon challis, lawn, chambray, cotton voile, double gauze, and viscose. All these fabrics will drape and will be light and floaty looking.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Mid-thigh
Knee
XXS
1.25
1.75
2.00
XS
1.25
1.75
2.00
S
1.25
1.75
2.25
M
1.25
1.75
2.25
L
1.50
2.00
2.50
XL
1.50
2.00
2.75
XXL
1.75
2.25
3.00
3XL
2.00
2.50
3.00
4XL
2.00
2.75
3.25
5XL
2.25
3.00
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Mid-thigh
Knee
XXS
0.75
1.25
1.75
XS
1.00
1.25
1.75
S
1.00
1.25
1.75
M
1.00
1.50
2.00
L
1.25
1.50
2.00
XL
1.25
1.75
2.00
XXL
1.50
1.75
2.25
3XL
1.50
1.75
2.25
4XL
1.50
2.00
2.50
5XL
1.75
2.00
2.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, tape measure iron, ironing board, and pins or clips. A serger or overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Cups A-C Cups D-G Cups H-K Cups L-M Top length Mid-thigh lengthKnee length XXS 7-8, 17-18 8-9, 18-19 10-11, 20-21 27-28, 34-35 2-5, 12-16,
29-302-5, 12-16,
22-26, 29-302-5, 12-16, 22-
26, 29-33XS – S 7-8, 17-18 8-9, 18-19 10-11, 20-21 27-28, 34-35 2-5, 12-16,
29-302-5, 12-16,
22-26, 29-302-5, 12-16, 22-
26, 29-33M – 3XL 7-8, 17-18 8-9, 18-19 10-11, 20-21 27-28, 34-35 2-6, 12-16,
29-302-6, 12-16,
22-26, 29-302-6, 12-16, 22-
26, 29-334XL 7-8, 17-18 8-9, 18-19 10-11, 20-21 27-28, 34-35 2-6, 12-16,
29-302-6, 12-16,
22-26, 29-302-6, 12-16, 22-
26, 29-345XL 7-8, 17-18 8-9, 18-19 10-11, 20-21 27-28, 34-35 2-6, 12-16,
29-302-6, 12-16,
22-26, 29-302-6, 12-16, 22-
27, 29-34+A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Cups A-C Cups D-G Cups H-K Cups L-M Top length Mid-thigh lengthKnee length XXS 7-8, 16-17 9-10, 18 18-20, 27-28 17, 25-26 2-5, 11-15,
29-302-5, 11-15,
20-24, 29-302-5, 11-15,
20-24, 29-30XS – S 7-8, 16-17 9-10, 18 18-20, 27-28 17, 25-26 2-6, 11-15,
29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-33M – L 7-8, 16-17 9-10, 18 18-20, 27-28 16-17, 25-26 2-6, 11-15,
29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-33XL – XXL 7-8, 16-17 8-10, 18-19 18-20, 27-28 16-17, 25-26 2-6, 11-15,
29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-333XL 7-8, 16-17 8-10, 18-19 18-20, 27-28 16-17, 25-26 2-6, 11-15,
29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-344XL-5XL 7-8, 16-17 8-10, 18-19 18-20, 27-28 16-17, 25-26 2-6, 11-15,
29-302-6, 11-15,
20-25, 29-302-6, 11-15,
20-24, 29-35Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Binding (Cut 1 on bias)
Width
Length
XXS
1.75
43.2
XS
1.75
46.5
S
1.75
49.7
M
1.75
53.7
L
1.75
57.7
XL
1.75
61.7
XXL
1.75
65.7
3XL
1.75
69.7
4XL
1.75
73.7
5XL
1.75
78.7
NOTE – The width of the binding is the cut width. The finished width of the binding once prepared will be ½ inch wide. See the preparation step below on how to make your own binding.
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the bias, lay your fabric out with the wrong side facing up. At one end of your fabric, fold the raw edge at a 45-degree angle so the edge is aligned with selvedge. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. The grainline marking on the pattern piece must be parallel to either the lengthwise grain and selvedge or the selvedge that has been folded at a 45-degree angle. Cut around the pattern piece on the fold, leaving the fold.
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Make bias binding.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the underbust of the Front Skirt and the top edge of the Back Skirt.
- CUPS – Place Main Cup and Cup Lining right sides together. Stitch. Trim. Understitch seam to Cup Lining. Press. Stitch gathering stitches. Repeat for second Cup piece.
- UNDERBUST FACING – Mark center of Front Skirt. Pin a Cup to the Front Skirt. Gather Cup to match Underside Facing. Repeat for second Cup. Lay Underside Facing onto Cup Lining, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Trim seam allowance and clip curves. Turn to right side and check Cups are centered. Press. Flip Cups over and hem Underside Facing.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch the side seams together using a French seam.
- BINDING – Mark center of Back Skirt and bias binding. Match right side of binding to wrong side of Back Skirt, matching centers. Stitch. Trim. Press. Fold binding over seam. Stitch entire piece of binding. Press.
- STRAPS – Fold bottom of straps under ½ inch, pin to back at pattern markings. Stitch.
- HEM – Hem bottom of the Slip.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold binding to finish the raw edges and create the straps. See the cut chart above for required length.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
0.3Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that are used around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the rise is likely to stretch and then your garment won’t fit properly.
Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch the underbust on the Front Skirt and the facing. Starting at center, stitch along the underbust in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the armscye of the Cups. Starting at the top, stitch along the edge in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the top edge of the Back Skirt. Starting at the center, stitch along the top edge in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Cups1.1Match a Main Cup and Cup Lining piece right sides together, matching the curve of the center bust. Pin.
1.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.3Notch the seam allowance along the curve, getting close to the stitches without cutting through them.
NOTE – Notching the seam allowance reduces the amount of fabric in the seam at the curve and allows the fabric to move so the seam will lay flat.
1.4Open the Cup Lining and the Main Cup so they are lying flat. Press the seam allowance towards the Bust Lining.
Understitch the seam allowance to the Cup Lining.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Cup Lining and Main Cup piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the Cup Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it.
Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice.
1.5Flip the Cup Lining over so that the wrong sides are together. Press.
1.6Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches along the bottom of the Cup piece.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end.
Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
1.7Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for the other Main Cup and Cup Lining pieces.
2 . Underbust Facing2.1Find and mark the center of the Front Skirt straight edge.
NOTE – This step is important as it will help locate the point where the Cup pieces should meet.
2.2Place a Main Cup onto the Front Skirt, right sides together, matching the side seam and pattern markings. Pin.
NOTE – Do not pin the gathered portion of the Cup piece.
Once pinned, gently pull the bobbin threads of the gathering stitches until the lengths of the Cup and the Front Skirt line up. Adjust the gathers on the Cup piece between the pattern markings. Pin.
2.3Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 to attach the other Cup.
TIP – You can baste the gathered cup to the front skirt within the seam allowance. It will help you guarantee the cup meeting point and catching all layers if using slippery fabrics.
Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2.4Place the Underbust Facing onto the Cup Lining, right sides together, matching pattern markings. Pin along the underbust edge.
NOTE – The Cup is sandwiched between the Front Skirt and Underbust Facing.
2.5Check that the front curve of both Cup pieces meet exactly ½ inch down from where the pin was placed in step 2.1. This will ensure that the Cups will emerge from the center point lined up next to each other.
2.6Stitch all the way across the underbust, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.7Turn right sides out. Check that the center front is sitting correctly at the Cups.
Turn wrong sides out again.
Trim the seam allowances and clip the curves to reduce bulk.
2.8Turn right side out. Press the seam down.
Remove any visible gathering stitches.
2.9Flip the Cups onto the right side of the Front Skirt.
Fold the Underbust Facing hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
Fold another ¼ inch and press. Pin.
2.10Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
3 . Side Seams3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Skirts right sides together. Pin from the armscye to the hem. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Repeat on the other side. Skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will sew the side seams using French seams. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
3.1Place the Front and Back Skirts wrong sides together (right side facing up). Pin from the armscye to the hem.
NOTE – Ensure that the Underbust Facing is sandwiched between the Front and Back Skirt.
3.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.3Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
3.4Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold. Pin.
3.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Press.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 on the other side.
4 . Binding4.1Turn the Slip inside out. Find and mark the center of the Back Skirt and the binding.
4.2Place the right side of the binding onto the wrong side of the Back Skirt, matching centers. Pin.
Continue pinning the binding around the Back Skirt and up towards the armscye until you reach the tip of the Cup piece.
Repeat on the other side of the Bust.
NOTE – For the best results you will need to stretch the bias binding slightly. There will be a long piece of binding left over on each front side which will then become the strap.
4.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the end of the Cup piece.
TIP – As you are attaching binding to a curve, you will need to ease it along the curve to prevent the armscye from stretching.
4.4Turn the Slip right side out.
Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press the seam allowance away from the Slip and up towards the binding.
4.5Fold the binding over the seam, enclosing the raw edges. Pin.
Continue pinning the ends of the binding together on both sides. This will create the straps.
4.6Topstitch along the entire length of the binding, using a ⅛ seam allowance.
4.7Press the binding well.
5 . Straps5.0FIT CHECK – Pin the binding at the pattern markings on the Back Skirt and try the Slip on. Check the lengths are ok. Adjust as required.
5.1Fold the ends of the binding ½ inch to the wrong side, enclosing the raw edges.
Place the folded ends of the binding onto the wrong side of the Back Skirt at the pattern markings. Pin.
NOTE – Check that the binding isn’t twisted.
5.2Stitch a small rectangle onto both ends of the binding to secure them in place.
TIP – Go over your stitching a few times to ensure the straps are secure.
5.3OPTIONAL BOW – Hand stitch a bow onto the front at the center bust.
6 . Hem6.1Fold the hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
OPTIONAL – Stitch a rolled hem instead of a regular hem. This works well with fabrics such as silk or sheers.
6.2Fold another ¼ inch. Press. Pin.
6.3Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Your Slip is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Slip is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpslipsewingpattern.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2022
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSlip
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The elegant Slip is a timeless pattern designed to be worn under see-through garments. It can also be worn as a camisole, depending on the fabric used. The bust is gathered into the front skirt. The raw edges are bound with binding which creates the straps. There are three lengths to choose from: top, tunic or knee. Combine the Slip with the Lingerie Shorts for a complete lingerie or sleep set.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Measuring
There are four cup sizes available for the Slip. These are grouped together as A-C, D-G, H-K, L-M. You will need to select your Cup pieces from these sizes. See fitting notes below for further information.
You will need to determine your band size (underbust – yellow line) and cup size (full bust – blue line). We recommend measuring wearing an underwired supportive bra without padding.
The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. Cup sizes range from A – M. Please see the chart below (in INCHES) on how to calculate your cup size.
Cup size
Difference from underbust
A
1
B
2
C
3
D
4
E
5
F
6
G
7
H
8
I
9
J
10
K
11
L
12
M
13
Watch our video on how to measure your band and cup size.
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Materials and ToolsFabrics – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this slip. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look in mind.
This pattern was originally designed to be worn under clothing as a traditional slip. If you would like to create this look, use a light or medium weight woven with a silky feel to it such as satin charmeuse, satin, silk crepe, crepe de chine, and silk. This will give the slip drape but will also allow the clothing worn over the top to lay nicely.
If you would like more of a camisole than a slip, use fabrics such as linen, cotton, rayon challis, lawn, chambray, cotton voile, double gauze, and viscose. All these fabrics will drape and will be light and floaty looking.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Mid-thigh
Knee
XXS
1.25
1.75
2.00
XS
1.25
1.75
2.00
S
1.25
1.75
2.25
M
1.25
1.75
2.25
L
1.50
2.00
2.50
XL
1.50
2.00
2.75
XXL
1.75
2.25
3.00
3XL
2.00
2.50
3.00
4XL
2.00
2.75
3.25
5XL
2.25
3.00
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Mid-thigh
Knee
XXS
0.75
1.25
1.75
XS
1.00
1.25
1.75
S
1.00
1.25
1.75
M
1.00
1.50
2.00
L
1.25
1.50
2.00
XL
1.25
1.75
2.00
XXL
1.50
1.75
2.25
3XL
1.50
1.75
2.25
4XL
1.50
2.00
2.50
5XL
1.75
2.00
2.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1x OPTIONAL Satin bow. You can create a tied bow to attach to the front or add a small satin bow.
- OPTIONAL ½ inch wide double fold bias binding – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, tape measure iron, ironing board, and pins or clips. A serger or overlocker is optional but not required.