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Home / Womens / Accessories, Activewear, Foundation, Garments, Intimates, Lingerie
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
23
Sports Bra
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This sports bra sewing pattern is very comfortable with full coverage and support. There are two hook and eye closures, exposed underbust elastic, optional underwires, and shaped cups.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes 28AA to 48M.
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- +Preparation
- If the band is too loose – go DOWN a band size and UP a cup size.
- If the band is too tight – go UP a band size and DOWN a cup size.
- If the band fits but the cups don’t – keep the band size and go up or down in cup size.
- If the cups fit but the band doesn’t – keep the cup size and change the band size, going up or down based on what you need.
- For our underwire fitting example, if it is sitting away from your breast plate, try one band size down and a fuller cup.
- Matching thread
- Side Cup:
- Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Cup:
- Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Front Panel:
- Fabric cut 1 on fold.
- Lining cut 1 on fold.
- Cradle:
- Fabric cut 1 on fold.
- Lining cut 1 on fold.
- Back:
- Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewSports Bra
Difficulty Level = Beginner
A fully lined V-neck Sports Bra with an exposed underbust elastic, full coverage and optional power mesh – this bra provides superb support for all activities. The stretch cups fit to your bust, while the roundness adds shape without adding bulk. With a back keyhole, two hook and eye closures, and optional underwires, this bra offers you all the support you need.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Cups: 28AA - 48M
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
Band Size
Cup Size
28
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
30
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
32
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
34
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
36
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
38
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
40
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
42
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
44
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
46
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
48
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
MeasuringYou will need to determine your band size (underbust – yellow line) and cup size (full bust – blue line). We recommend measuring while wearing an underwired supportive bra without padding.
Watch our video on how to measure your band and cup size.
The band sizes range from 28 to 48 inches in increments of two e.g. 28, 30, 32 etc.
The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. Cup sizes range from AA – M. Please see the chart below on how to calculate your cup size.
Cup Size
Difference from underbust (in INCHES)
AA
0.5
A
1.0
B
2.0
C
3.0
D
4.0
E
5.0
F
6.0
G
7.0
H
8.0
I
9.0
J
10.0
K
11.0
L
12.0
M
13.0
Fitting NotesDon’t let choosing a band and cup size panic you! Each one of us has a totally different shape. Under and full bust measurements don’t give us a complete, accurate assessment of size. We have different back measurements, breast shape, etc. Moving up or down a cup size and adjusting the band as needed might achieve a better fit than your measured size. These are your sister sizes.
If you look at our size chart, you can see the sizes are all staggered, almost in a pretty line. This serves a second purpose, other than showing our size range. It shows you what your sister sizes will be! Find your size on our chart and make a muslin with that band and cup. You only need to sew one layer for a muslin – either the main or lining. Follow steps 1 and 3. Then baste the side seams and the hook and eye. Try it on. If it doesn’t feel quite right, take the sizing up or down vertically and try that one next.
Here are a few fitting suggestions:
Just remember that the cup size will change based upon the band size.
The size chart shows the sister sizes to help you find your correct fit.
To get the best fit we suggest doing the following:
While standing in front of a large mirror, bend forward from the waist and then stand back up. Make sure to lift the breasts into the cups, then adjust the straps to fit.Starting with the band; clasp the hook on the loosest hook – it should be snug. You shouldn’t be able to move it more than 2 inches away from your back. Pay attention to whether or not it rides up in the back, or if the straps are digging into your shoulders. If it does any of these, you need a smaller band. If the back feels too tight, you would need a bigger band.
The band needs to sit level across the body and be in line with the underwires. The length of the straps needs to be adjusted to support the cup and should be comfortable. If the straps are falling off, make sure to shorten the pattern piece.
For the cups to fit correctly, there should be no bulging, gaping, or spilling out of the cups. If this is happening, try a bigger cup. If you have gaping or wrinkling cups, try a smaller cup size. For correct fit, the underwire should sit under each breast, sitting in the crease and end under your arms. If the underwire doesn’t sit flat against your ribcage, lifts away from the body, or digs in anywhere, try a bigger cup.
The Sports Bra is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. We suggest adjusting for height halfway through the armscye.
If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric
Your Sports Bra fabric needs to be a 4-way stretch/knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. If you use a 2-way stretch fabric the armscye will be too short and the bra will be uncomfortable to wear. Best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. Great examples are cotton lycra, medium weight jersey, viscose, ponte, scuba, athletic knit and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric. You will need 0.75 yard for all sizes if you are using one color. If you would like to color block, please see the chart below.The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your Bra maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric, it returns to its original size.
Lining
You will need to line the cups of the Bra. You can line these using the same fabric as your main or any 4-way stretch/knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. You will need 0.75 yard for all sizes if you are using one color. If you would like to color block, please see the chart below.OPTIONAL Power Mesh
For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to your Cup Lining. This will lift and support the bust. Approximately a fat quarter for all sizes will be sufficient. If you would like to color block, please see the chart below.Fabric Estimates 60 in / 150cm wide (in YARDS)
Cups A – F
ALL One Color
Yoke + Cradle
Back
Cups
28 – 30
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.25
32 – 48
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.25
Cups G – M
ALL One Color
Yoke + Cradle
Back
Cups
28 – 40
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.50
42 – 48
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.OPTIONAL Underwire Casing
This is used as an enclosure for the underwires, while stabilizing the cup to frame seam. We suggest a plush underwire casing as it is softer against the body, as well as strong and durable. Approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.OPTIONAL Underwires
Underwires support the breasts by spreading out the stress of breast support from the cups into the band. By using them you will get the best lift and support possible from your bra.Underwires are most commonly made of metal and come in a variety of diameters and lengths. We recommend using fully coated steel flat wires. You will need 1x pair Full Cup Underwire – see chart below for sizing. Please note this is a suggested length/size. Please adjust according to your personal shape and fit.
Cup
Underwire Size Chart
UK
USA
Length
(in INCHES)AA
1.0
30.0
6.1
A
2.0
32.0
6.7
B
3.0
34.0
7.3
C
4.0
36.0
8.0
D
5.0
38.0
8.5
E
6.0
40.0
9.1
F
7.0
42.0
9.7
G
8.0
44.0
11.0
H
9.0
46.0
11.6
I
10.0
48.0
12.3
J
11.0
50.0
13.0
K
12.0
52.0
13.7
L
13.0
54.0
14.4
M
14.0
56.0
15.1
Underbust Band Elastic
Use a soft plush backed lingerie elastic as this will feel more comfortable against your skin. Any width will work but will need to be the same width as your bottom hook and eye. See the cut chart below for elastic lengths – approximately 1 ½ yards will be enough for all sizes.Neckline and Armscye Elastic
You will need ⅜ inch wide Elastic. Approximately 1 ½ yards for cup sizes AA – F and approximately 1.75 yards for cup sizes G – M.Hook and Eye Closure
The bra is finished with 2x hook and eye adjustments at the back. You can buy this as a continuous tape or pre-cut. We recommend using a 1.6 inch wide hook and eye with finished edges at the top placement. Your bottom set will need to be the same width as your underbust elastic.Other Materials
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, optional zipper foot, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure or ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Underbust Elastic (Cut 1)
Length
28
30
32
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
48
AA
19.5
21.5
23.5
25.5
27.5
29.5
31.5
33.5
35.5
37.5
39.5
A
19.7
21.7
23.7
25.7
27.7
29.7
31.7
33.7
35.7
37.7
39.7
B
20.0
22.0
24.0
26.0
28.0
30.0
32.0
34.0
36.0
38.0.
40.0
C
20.5
22.5
24.5
26.5
28.5
30.5
32.5
34.5
36.5
38.5
40.5
D
20.7
22.7
24.7
26.7
28.7
30.7
32.7
34.7
36.7
38.7
40.7
E
21.0
23.0
25.0
27.0
29.0
31.0
33.0
35.0
37.0
39.0
41.0
F
21.5
23.5
25.5
27.5
29.5
31.5
33.5
35.5
37.5
39.5
41.5
G
22.0
24.0
26.0
28.0
30.0
32.0
34.0
36.0
38.0
40.0
42.0
H
22.5
24.5
26.5
28.5
30.5
32.5
34.5
36.5
38.5
40.5
42.5
I
23.0
25.0
27.0
29.0.
31.0
33.0
35.0
37.0
39.0
41.0
43.0
J
23.3
25.3
27.3
29.3
31.3
33.3
35.3
37.3
39.3
41.3
43.3
K
23.6
25.6
27.6
29.6
31.6
33.6
35.6
37.6
39.6
41.6
43.6
L
24.0
26.0
28.0
30.0
32.0
34.0
36.0
38.0
40.0
42.0
44.0
M
24.3
26.3
28.3
30.3
32.3
34.3
36.3
38.3
40.3
42.3
44.3
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
On a REGULAR sewing machine
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and labels.
- OPTIONAL POWER MESH – Place Main Side Cup, wrong side facing up. Lay the Power Mesh Side Cup on top, right sides facing up. Baste. Repeat for the second Main Side Cup and both Main Front Cup pieces.
- FRONT – Right sides together, stitch the Center Cup Lining to the Side Cup Lining, along the cup seam. Press seam. Stitch Cup Lining to Center Front Panel, right sides together, at the upper cup seam. Press seam up. Repeat for the other Side and Front Cup Lining pieces. Pin Cradle onto Center Front Panel, right sides together, matching centers. Stitch. Press seam up. Repeat for Main pieces. Optional top stitch over seams.
- OPTIONAL UNDERWIRE CASING – Cut a piece of underwire channeling the length of the underbust (both Cup pieces) seam. Place underwire channeling over underbust seam, right side of Front Lining. Topstitch. Repeat for other side. Stitch across top of both casings at center.
- SHOULDER – Stitch Back and Front Lining right sides together at the shoulder. Press seam to front. Repeat for other side. Repeat for Main Back and Front. Press seam to back.
- ATTACH MAIN TO LINING – Place the Main on top of the Lining, right sides together, matching the necklines, shoulder seams and center backs. Stitch along neckline. SERGER: Stitch V shape at center, 2 inches on either side of center point. Snip into center point. Cut elastic length of each side of neckline. Stitch within seam allowance on both sides. Match armscye and stitch. Repeat on other side. Repeat for keyhole on both sides. Cut elastic to armscye length and stitch within seam allowance. Repeat for other side. Pull right way out and press.
- SIDE SEAMS – Open up at side seam. Match Front Lining to Back Lining, and Main Front to Main Back, right sides together. Stitch. Repeat for other side. Turn right side out and press. Match bottom edge together and stitch.
- UPPER HOOK AND EYE – Right sides facing up, sandwich left center back into eye tape and stitch. OPTIONAL zig zag the edges. Repeat with hook tape on right side.
- UNDERBUST ELASTIC – Fit check elastic. Stitch hook and eye tape to elastic. Mark quarter points of elastic and Bra. Place right sides together matching points. Stitch. Flip elastic down and press seam up. OPTIONAL top stitch.
- OPTIONAL UNDERWIRE – Insert underwire into casing. Stitch the end of the casing. Repeat for other cup.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch.
Topstitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm – Narrow zig zag 2.0 x 1.0 mmPreparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch - Top stitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm – Narrow zig zag 2.0 x 1.0 mm
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and seam labels to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Power Mesh
If you are not adding an optional power mesh skip to step 1.
Place the Main Side Cup, wrong side facing up. Lay the Power Mesh Side Cup on top, right sides facing up. Pin together.
Baste along all raw edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance. You will now treat this as one piece.
Repeat for the second Main Side Cup and both Main Front Cup pieces.
1 . Front1.1With the right sides together, pin the Center Cup Lining to the Side Cup Lining, along the cup seam. Pin in the middle and at either end first, then ease along the curve and pin together.
NOTE – Ease the Cup pieces along the ⅜ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means where you sew, the fabric will.
NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Cup Lining.
1.2Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.3Press the seam allowance toward the center.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Cup. This will ensure you do not attach the Cup the wrong way around to the Center Front Panel.
1.4Place the Cup Lining onto the Center Front Panel along the upper cup seam. Pin in the middle and at either end first, then ease along the curve and pin together.
NOTE – Ease the Cup pieces along the ⅜ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means where you sew, the fabric will.
1.5Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.6Press the seam allowance up.
1.7Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for the other Side and Front Cup Lining pieces.
1.8Find the center of the Cradle and the Center Front Panel and mark these with a clip, pin, or chalk.
1.9Place the Cradle onto the Center Front Panel, right sides together, matching the top edge of the Cradle with the bottom edge of the Cups, matching centers, and each end.
Add pins and ease at the seam allowance.
1.10Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.11Press the seam allowance up.
NOTE – This will now be called the Front Lining.
1.12Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.11 for the Main pattern pieces, pressing all seams in the opposite direction to the Lining.
OPTIONAL – After pressing each seam (in steps 1.3, 1.6 and 1.11), topstitch or reverse coverstitch over the seamlines. Use contrasting thread for a fun option.
NOTE – This will now be called the Main Front.
2 . OPTIONAL Underwire Casing2.0If you are not adding underwire, skip to step 3.
2.1Cut a piece of underwire channeling the length of the underbust (both Cup pieces) seam.
To measure, start ⅜ inch from the side edge up to the middle of the Center Front Panel.
2.2Place the underwire channeling over the pattern markings at the underbust seam, on the right side of the Front Lining.
2.3Topstitch the channeling to the Front Lining, by stitching directly over the existing stitch lines on both sides of the channeling.
TIP – Use a zipper foot to help get close to the edges.
2.4Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 to attach channeling on the other side.
2.5Stitch across the top of both casings, using a narrow zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A narrow zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
NOTE – Leave the other end of the casings open for inserting the underwires in step 8.
3 . Shoulder3.1Place the Back and Front Lining right sides together at the shoulder. Pin.
NOTE – Check you have your Back Lining piece the correct way. The center back should be at the center, not the side seam.
3.2Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.3Press the seam allowance towards the Front Lining.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 to attach the other Back Lining piece to the Front Lining at the shoulder.
3.5Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 to attach the Main Back pieces to the Main Front, pressing the seam allowances to the Back instead of the Front.
NOTE – By pressing the shoulder seams in opposite directions, it will reduce bulk and help the pieces nest more easily when attaching the Main and Lining together.
4 . Attach Main to Lining4.1Place the Lining right side up.
4.2Place the Main on top of the Lining, right sides together, matching the necklines, shoulder seams and center backs. Pin along the neckline.
4.3Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.4If you are using a serger, you will need to stitch either side of the center bust ‘V’ point on a regular machine.
If you are not using a serger, skip to step 4.5.
Starting 2 inches away from the center point, and in line with your serger stitches, stitch to the center, stitching a little lower at the center, and back up the other side by 2 inches, meeting your serger stitches.
TIP – Stop at the center front, pick up your presser foot, turn and continue sewing. This will create a V-shape point.
4.5At the center V point, snip into the seam allowance using the very tip of your scissors. Be careful not to snip through the stitch line.
TIP – Take small snips to get as close as possible to the seam without snipping through the stitches.
4.6Measure and cut a piece of elastic from the center back seam to the center ‘V’ point.
Cut a 45 degree angle at one end of this elastic.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
4.7Place the elastic onto the Main Front along one side of the neckline, within the seam allowance. Pin at each end of that neckline side and ease along the seam.
NOTE – You are only attaching elastic to one side of the neckline. Do not pin along the entire curve.
4.8Start stitching the elastic within the seam allowance, holding the elastic tight, with a slight stretch.
Serge or stitch using a zig zag stitch.
4.9Repeat steps 4.6 to 4.8 for the opposite neckline edge.
4.10Match the armscye of the Main and Lining, right sides together. Match the shoulder seams and side edges. Pin.
4.11Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.12Repeat steps 4.6 to 4.7 for the second armscye and for both sides of the back keyhole.
4.13Cut a piece of elastic the same length as each armscye.
4.14Start stitching the elastic within the seam allowance, holding the elastic taught but not stretched.
Serge or stitch using a zig zag stitch.
4.15Starting at one side, push the Back through the shoulder. Reach up from the front and pull the back through. Repeat on the other side so the entire Bra is right sides out.
4.16Press all seams.
TIP – This pressing step gives the final Bra a crisp finished look and a better lifetime wear. Use as much steam as possible without marking the fabric.
5 . Side Seams5.1Open up the Bra at the side seam. Match the Front Lining to the Back Lining, and the Main Front to the Main Back, right sides together. Pin.
5.2Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.3Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 for the opposite side seam.
5.4Turn the Bra right sides out and press the side seams.
5.5Match the raw edge of the Main and Lining together along the bottom edge. Pin.
5.6Using an overlock stitch on a regular machine or a serger, stitch together.
NOTE – An overlock stitch is a combination of a straight and a zigzag stitch. As the stitch is exposed on the inside of the elastic, it is best to use this type of stitch here.
NOTE – If serging, do not cut off any of the seam allowance.
6 . Upper Hook and Eye6.1If you have bought continuous tape, cut the hook and eye to the correct length for your cup size.
6.2With right sides facing up, sandwich the left Center Back into the eye tape and pin.
NOTE – Check that you will have enough space to stitch these pieces together without catching the first row of eyes.
6.3Stitch using a narrow zig zag stitch.
6.4OPTIONAL – Use a narrow zig zag stitch to finish the edges of the eye tape if needed.
6.5With the wrong side of the Bra and the hooks facing up, sandwich the right Center Back into the hook tape. Pin.
6.6Stitch using a narrow zig zag stitch.
6.7OPTIONAL – Use a narrow zig zag stitch to finish the edge of the hook tape if needed.
7 . Underbust Elastic7.0FIT CHECK – All elastics have different stretch and recovery. It is very important to fit check the length of elastic now to make sure it is cut to the correct length for the wearer.
7.1Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 to attach the second hook and eye set to the Underbust elastic.
7.2Place hook on last eye. Mark the quarter points on the bottom edge of the Bra and on the elastic.
7.3Place the elastic over the Bra, right sides together, matching quarter points.
7.4Using a zig zag stitch, or a serger with the blade turned off, stitch the elastic to the bottom edge of the Bra.
NOTE – Do not stretch the Bra fabric while sewing. Stretch the elastic to fit the Bra.
7.5Flip the elastic down. Press the seam allowance up toward the Bra.
7.6OPTIONAL – Top stitch the elastic seam allowance, using ⅛ seam allowance and a zig zag or stretch stitch.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Underwire, continue to step 8. If you are not adding OPTIONAL Underwire your Sports Bra is finished!
8 . OPTIONAL Underwire8.0NOTE – These images are from the Bianca Bra, but the steps are the same.
8.1Insert the underwire into the casing under the Cup.
NOTE – The underwire will sit flush with the center front and finish approximately ½ inch shorter at the underarm point.
8.2Stitch along the end of the casing using a narrow zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A narrow zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 for the other side of the Bra.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Sports Bra is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpsportsbra.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSports Bra
Difficulty Level = Beginner
A fully lined V-neck Sports Bra with an exposed underbust elastic, full coverage and optional power mesh – this bra provides superb support for all activities. The stretch cups fit to your bust, while the roundness adds shape without adding bulk. With a back keyhole, two hook and eye closures, and optional underwires, this bra offers you all the support you need.
SizingSize Range
Cups: 28AA - 48M
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
Band Size
Cup Size
28
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
30
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
32
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
34
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
36
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
38
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
40
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
42
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
44
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
46
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
48
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
MeasuringYou will need to determine your band size (underbust – yellow line) and cup size (full bust – blue line). We recommend measuring while wearing an underwired supportive bra without padding.
Watch our video on how to measure your band and cup size.
The band sizes range from 28 to 48 inches in increments of two e.g. 28, 30, 32 etc.
The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. Cup sizes range from AA – M. Please see the chart below on how to calculate your cup size.
Cup Size
Difference from underbust (in INCHES)
AA
0.5
A
1.0
B
2.0
C
3.0
D
4.0
E
5.0
F
6.0
G
7.0
H
8.0
I
9.0
J
10.0
K
11.0
L
12.0
M
13.0
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric
Your Sports Bra fabric needs to be a 4-way stretch/knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. If you use a 2-way stretch fabric the armscye will be too short and the bra will be uncomfortable to wear. Best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. Great examples are cotton lycra, medium weight jersey, viscose, ponte, scuba, athletic knit and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric. You will need 0.75 yard for all sizes if you are using one color. If you would like to color block, please see the chart below.The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your Bra maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric, it returns to its original size.
Lining
You will need to line the cups of the Bra. You can line these using the same fabric as your main or any 4-way stretch/knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. You will need 0.75 yard for all sizes if you are using one color. If you would like to color block, please see the chart below.OPTIONAL Power Mesh
For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to your Cup Lining. This will lift and support the bust. Approximately a fat quarter for all sizes will be sufficient. If you would like to color block, please see the chart below.Fabric Estimates 60 in / 150cm wide (in YARDS)
Cups A – F
ALL One Color
Yoke + Cradle
Back
Cups
28 – 30
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.25
32 – 48
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.25
Cups G – M
ALL One Color
Yoke + Cradle
Back
Cups
28 – 40
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.50
42 – 48
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.OPTIONAL Underwire Casing
This is used as an enclosure for the underwires, while stabilizing the cup to frame seam. We suggest a plush underwire casing as it is softer against the body, as well as strong and durable. Approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.OPTIONAL Underwires
Underwires support the breasts by spreading out the stress of breast support from the cups into the band. By using them you will get the best lift and support possible from your bra.Underwires are most commonly made of metal and come in a variety of diameters and lengths. We recommend using fully coated steel flat wires. You will need 1x pair Full Cup Underwire – see chart below for sizing. Please note this is a suggested length/size. Please adjust according to your personal shape and fit.
Cup
Underwire Size Chart
UK
USA
Length
(in INCHES)AA
1.0
30.0
6.1
A
2.0
32.0
6.7
B
3.0
34.0
7.3
C
4.0
36.0
8.0
D
5.0
38.0
8.5
E
6.0
40.0
9.1
F
7.0
42.0
9.7
G
8.0
44.0
11.0
H
9.0
46.0
11.6
I
10.0
48.0
12.3
J
11.0
50.0
13.0
K
12.0
52.0
13.7
L
13.0
54.0
14.4
M
14.0
56.0
15.1
Underbust Band Elastic
Use a soft plush backed lingerie elastic as this will feel more comfortable against your skin. Any width will work but will need to be the same width as your bottom hook and eye. See the cut chart below for elastic lengths – approximately 1 ½ yards will be enough for all sizes.Neckline and Armscye Elastic
You will need ⅜ inch wide Elastic. Approximately 1 ½ yards for cup sizes AA – F and approximately 1.75 yards for cup sizes G – M.Hook and Eye Closure
The bra is finished with 2x hook and eye adjustments at the back. You can buy this as a continuous tape or pre-cut. We recommend using a 1.6 inch wide hook and eye with finished edges at the top placement. Your bottom set will need to be the same width as your underbust elastic.Other Materials
- Matching thread
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, optional zipper foot, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure or ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
