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Home / Womens / Garments, Jackets and Coats, Office Wear, Outerwear
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
12
Spring Blazer
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
Sew a statement piece with the Spring Blazer sewing pattern. With clean lines, beautiful features, and loads of options to create different looks, this is a pattern you will use over and over again.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to your chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out or in to the correct waist and hip sizes.
- Please check the finished garment measurements by holding a tape measure around your body while wearing the type of clothing you want to wear underneath. If your size is too snug for the fit you want, try the next size up.
- The blazer is fitted across the shoulders – if you have a curved spine or broad/narrow shoulders, you may need to adjust accordingly.
- Do not size up more than one size or you may find the shoulders and armhole do not sit properly.
- If you wish to use a thicker fabric than those recommended, again size up by one size to ensure it is not too snug.
- If you are between sizes, you may wish to grade between sizes to get the best fit
- Bust adjustment – This blazer is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately a ready-to-wear B cup)
- If your bust size is below a C cup, you don’t necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, do check at the shoulder assembly stage that the chest area fits well. As this blazer doesn’t close across the bust this may not be necessary.
- If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do a FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow our free tutorial to complete your FBA.
- Height adjustment – If your height is above or below 5 foot 6 inches, you may wish to adjust for height. Follow our free tutorial to make these adjustments throughout the bodice.
- Sleeve fit – The sleeve is a traditional two-part sleeve. It will feel different than a one piece sleeve as it is curved and shaped to your arm. The shaping is important as it allows your arm to move. This should still be fitted but may be wider than you are used to and sit differently. When you lift your arm directly to the side, the sleeve will twist slightly at the bicep, but it should not be so tight that it cuts in. This is an important part to check and adjust if necessary, at the muslin stage. If you need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve do this half way down and at the hem.
- Bicep adjustment – Check your bicep measurements against the finished measurements above. If you need to adjust the bicep, follow our free tutorial to adjust the Front and Back Sleeve.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you first sew a muslin to check the fit. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment to do this. This is how I would recommend you muslin this blazer:
- Use an inexpensive woven fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out all the pieces except the lining. Label each with tailors chalk or a fabric pen so you know later which is which.
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue on to sewing your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces…. It’s like having a tailor-made garment so they’re a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 3x 1-inch-wide Buttons.
- Interfacing – 1.25 yard should be enough for all sizes.
- Unlined OPTION – 1 ½ inches wide bias binding. Approximately 10 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- 2 x OPTIONAL shoulder pads.
- Thread to match.
- Side Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Top Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Plain Back OPTION: Bottom – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- OR Pleated Back OPTION: Bottom – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Back Neck Facing – Fabric cut 1, Interfacing cut 1
- Side Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Back Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Collar – Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 1
- Front Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Bow:
- Bow Center – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Bow – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Side Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Front Lining – Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Lining – Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Top Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Top Back Lining – Lining cut 1 on fold
- Plain Back OPTION: Bottom – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Pleated Back OPTION: Bottom – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Back Neck Facing – Fabric cut 1, Interfacing cut 1
- Side Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Back Lining – Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Back Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Collar – Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 1
- Front Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Bow:
- Center – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Bow – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
Project OverviewSpring Blazer
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
Sew this beautiful lined or unlined blazer. With its statement angled collar and lapel which buttons up, a two piece sleeve and princess seams at the front and back and optional shoulder pads, this blazer is the perfect statement piece for Spring. Choose between a fully lined or unlined blazer with bound seams. The back has an option for a plain or pleated panel. Add an optional bow for that little something extra.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center back to hem
Across shoulder
Bicep
Sleeve length
XXS
32.0
25.5
37.0
25.3
15.3
12.2
24.0
XS
34.0
27.5
39.0
25.5
15.7
13.0
24.1
S
36.0
28.5
41.0
25.7
16.1
13.5
24.3
M
38.0
30.5
43.0
26.0
16.5
14.5
24.5
L
40.0
32.5
45.0
26.1
17.3
15.2
24.7
XL
43.0
35.5
48.0
26.5
18.0
16.0
25.0
XXL
46.0
38.5
51.0
27.0
19.0
17.0
25.1
3XL
49.0
42.5
54.0
27.6
20.0
18.0
25.2
4XL
52.0
46.5
57.0
28.0
20.6
18.6
25.3
5XL
55.0
50.5
60.0
28.5
21.5
19.5
25.5
Fitting NotesThis blazer is designed to be fitted across the back, sitting flush along the side. It fits neatly into the waist line, finishing at the hip, dipping down at the back.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – The exterior of the blazer needs to be a light to medium weight woven. Cotton, cotton poplin, gabardine drill, rayon, corduroy, or a denim. If you are lining your blazer you can use a linen. You could use a slightly heavier weight fabric if you are not lining it. If your fabric is light weight it will drape more. A more structured fabric will give it a crisper silhouette.
OPTIONAL Lining fabric – The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics including lining, cotton, quilting cotton, satin, duchess satin. Fabrics with less drape (e.g. cotton) will be easier to handle and sew. Fabrics that are smoother will slide over shirts a bit more easily than a quilting cotton. Fabrics such as silk can be used for the lining but are only recommended for someone with experience using them as lining.
Do not use a knit/stretch fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
OPTIONAL Lining
Bow
XXS – XS
2.50
1.75
0.50
S – L
2.75
1.75
0.50
XL – XXL
3.00
2.00
0.50
3XL – 4XL
3.25
2.00
0.50
5XL
3.50
2.25
0.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
OPTIONAL Lining
Bow
XXS
2.00
1.50
0.50
S – L
2.25
1.50
0.50
XL
2.50
1.75
0.50
3XL
2.50
2.00
0.50
5XL
2.75
2.00
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, disappearing ink pen/tailors chalk. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Lined
OPTIONUnlined
OPTIONOPTIONAL
BowXXS – 5XL 2-41 2-32 42-45 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Unlined
OPTIONLined
OPTIONOPTIONAL
BowXXS – M 2-32 2-41 42-45 L – 5XL 2-32 2-42 42-45 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Unlined OPTION Binding
Underarm seam (cut 2)
Back arm seam (cut 2)
Armscye
(cut 2)Shoulder seam
(cut 2)Side seam
(cut 2)Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
XXS
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
16.0
1.5
5.0
1.5
15.0
1.5
XS
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
16.5
1.5
5.1
1.5
15.0
1.5
S
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
17.5
1.5
5.1
1.5
15.0
1.5
M
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
18.5
1.5
5.2
1.5
15.0
1.5
L
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
19.5
1.5
5.5
1.5
15.0
1.5
XL
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
20.5
1.5
5.7
1.5
15.0
1.5
XXL
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
21.5
1.5
6.0
1.5
15.0
1.5
3XL
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
23.0
1.5
6.3
1.5
16.0
1.5
4XL
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
24.5
1.5
6.6
1.5
16.0
1.5
5XL
17.5
1.5
24.0
1.5
26.0
1.5
7.0
1.5
16.0
1.5
Unlined OPTION Binding
Side front
(cut 2)Side back (cut 2)
Bottom back (cut 1)
Facing (cut 2)
Front/ back neck (cut 1)
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
XXS
20.5
1.5
23.2
1.5
5.2
1.5
17.3
1.5
24.6
1.5
XS
20.5
1.5
23.2
1.5
5.5
1.5
17.6
1.5
25.0
1.5
S
20.5
1.5
23.2
1.5
6.0
1.5
18.0
1.5
26.0
1.5
M
20.5
1.5
23.2
1.5
6.0
1.5
18.1
1.5
26.2
1.5
L
20.5
1.5
23.2
1.5
6.2
1.5
18.2
1.5
26.6
1.5
XL
20.5
1.5
23.2
1.5
6.5
1.5
18.5
1.5
27.5
1.5
XXL
21.0
1.5
23.2
1.5
6.7
1.5
18.7
1.5
28.0
1.5
3XL
21.0
1.5
24.2
1.5
7.0
1.5
19.0
1.5
28.3
1.5
4XL
21.5
1.5
24.5
1.5
7.2
1.5
19.2
1.5
28.7
1.5
5XL
22.0
1.5
24.5
1.5
7.5
1.5
19.4
1.5
29.2
1.5
OPTIONAL Bow
Bow (Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL
Interfacing cut 1)Bow Center (Fabric
cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1)Width
Height
Width
Height
XXS
25.0
14.0
6.6
6.5
XS
25.1
14.0
6.6
6.5
S
25.3
14.0
6.6
6.5
M
25.5
14.0
6.6
6.5
L
25.7
14.0
6.6
6.5
XL
26.0
14.0
6.6
6.5
XXL
26.1
14.0
6.6
6.5
3XL
26.3
14.0
6.6
6.5
4XL
26.5
14.0
6.6
6.5
5XL
26.7
14.0
6.6
6.5
Cutting Checklist:
Unlined OPTION
Lined OPTION:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to Collar, Front Facing, Back Neck Facing, Side Back Facing and OPTIONAL Bow and Bow Center.
- STAY STITCHING – Staystitch the back neckline of the Top Back Main and Lining, Side Back Main and Lining, Side Front Main and Lining, Front and Back Sleeves Main and Lining.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Follow our free tutorial to make your own bias binding.
- PLEATED BACK OPTION – Stitch the two Pleated Bottom pieces right sides together at the bottom edge. Turn right sides out and press. Understitch the seam. Baste the three raw edges. Create box pleat using two center markings. Create two knife pleats either side, facing towards the side seams, using the markings. Baste. Lay Top Back right side facing up. Place Bottom right sides together. Stitch. Bind/serge raw edge. Press seam up.
- PLAIN BACK OPTION – Stitch the two Plain Bottom pieces right sides together at the bottom edge. Turn right sides out and press. Understitch the seam. Baste the three raw edges. Lay Top Back right side facing up. Place Bottom right sides together. Stitch. Bind/serge raw edge. Press seam up.
- CONSTRUCTING BLAZER – Lay Back right side facing up. Place Front piece right sides together, matching the shoulder. Stitch. Repeat with second Front. Bind raw edges. Press seams to Back. Place Side Front onto Front, right sides together. Stitch. Bind raw edges. Press seams to side. Place Side Back onto each side of the Back, right sides together. Stitch, stopping at the end of the Side Back piece, leaving ½ inch at the hem of Back. Press seam to the side. Place Back and Front right sides together at side seams. Stitch. Bind raw edges. Press seams to the Back.
- COLLAR – Place Collars right sides together. Stitch bottom edge and first short straight side. Trim seam and corners. Turn right side out and press. Mark center of Collar and back neckline. Place Collar onto back neckline right sides together, matching centers. Pin at seam allowance. Starting at center, baste along one side, then the other in the opposite direction. Clip corners.
- FACING – Lay Front Facing right side up. Place Side Back Facing right sides together. Stitch. Repeat to attach second Front Facing and Side Back Facing together. Place both Front Facings onto Back Neckline Facing right sides together. Stitch. Press seam open. Mark center of back neckline on Facing. Lay Bodice right side out. Place Facing onto the Bodice, right sides together, matching center points, and shoulder seams to the seams of the Front and Back Facing. Pin. Pin Side Back Facing to Side Back. Starting at the center back, stitch all the way along that side. Repeat on other side. Snip into seam allowance at the angles. Clip corners. Bind raw edge. Flip Side Back Facing onto inside Back, right sides together. Stitch short straight edge. Clip corner. Turn right sides out. Press. Repeat on the other side. OPTIONAL Topstitch.
- SLEEVES – Sew Back Sleeve to Front Sleeve. Bind edges. Repeat. Ease each Sleeve into the blazer and sew. Stitch a second time for added strength. Bind edges. Slipstitch sleeve hem binding to inside of Sleeve.
- OPTIONAL SHOULDER PADS – Pin the center of the pad to the center of the shoulder seam. Pin the long edge of the shoulder pad to edge of the Sleeve seam. Tack. Repeat.
- FASTENINGS – Stitch buttonholes and buttons at markings.
- OPTIONAL BOW – Fold Bow in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edge, leaving a 1 inch gap. Turn out. Align short edges right sides together. Stitch. Fold fabric under by ½ inch. Use slipstitch to close gap. Press seam to middle. Hand stitch middle of Bow together. Fold Bow Center in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch one short and the long edge. Clip corner and trim seam allowance. Turn out and press. Fold open short edge ½ inch to wrong side. Pin. Wrap Center around right side of Bow, inserting closed end into open. Stitch. Hand stitch Bow onto center front of dress or Waistband.
Lined Blazer OPTION - PLEATED BACK OPTION – Stitch the two Pleated Bottom pieces right sides together at the bottom edge. Turn right sides out and press. Understitch the seam. Baste the three raw edges. Create box pleat using two center markings. Create two knife pleats either side, facing towards the side seams, using the markings. Baste. Lay Top Back right side facing up. Place Bottom right sides together. Stitch. Press seam up.
- PLAIN BACK OPTION – Stitch the two Plain Bottom pieces right sides together at the bottom edge. Turn right sides out and press. Understitch the seam. Baste the three raw edges. Lay Top Back right side facing up. Place Bottom right sides together. Stitch. Press seam up.
- CONSTRUCTING BLAZER – Lay Back right side facing up. Place Front piece right sides together, matching the shoulder. Stitch. Repeat with second Front. Press seams open. Place Side Front onto Front, right sides together. Stitch. Press seams open. Place Side Back onto each side of the Back, right sides together. Stitch, stopping at the end of the Side Back piece, leaving ½ inch at the hem of Back. Snip seam allowance ½ inch above Back seam. Press seams open above Back seam. Place Back and Front right sides together at side seams. Stitch. Press seams open.
- COLLAR – Place Collars right sides together. Stitch bottom edge and first short straight side. Trim seam and corners. Turn right side out and press. Mark center of Collar and back neckline. Place Collar onto back neckline right sides together, matching centers. Pin at seam allowance. Starting at center, baste along one side, then the other in the opposite direction. Clip corners.
- FACING – Stitch Front Facing to each Side Back Facing right sides together. Stitch both Front Facings onto Back Neckline Facing, right sides together. Press seams open. Mark the center of the back neckline on Facing. Place Facing onto Bodice, right sides together, matching center points on the back neckline, and the shoulder seams of the Bodice to the seams of the Front and Back Facing. Pin. Pin Side Back Facing to Side Back. Starting at the center back, stitch. Repeat on other side. Snip into seam at the angles. Clip corners. Flip Side Back Facing onto Back Lining, right sides together. Pin short straight edge. Stitch. Clip corner to reduce bulk. Turn right sides out. Press. Repeat on the other side. OPTIONAL, topstitch.
- SLEEVES – Sew Back Sleeve to Front Sleeve. Press seam open. Ease each Sleeve into the blazer and sew. Stitch a second time for added strength.
- OPTIONAL SHOULDER PADS – Pin the center of the pad to the center of the shoulder seam. Pin the long edge of the shoulder pad to edge of the Sleeve seam. Tack. Repeat.
- LINING – Create box pleat on Top Back Lining. Baste. Stitch Front Lining onto Side Front Lining right sides together. Stitch each Front Lining onto Back Lining right sides together, at the shoulders. Pin. Press seam open. Place a Side Back Lining onto Top Back Lining right sides together. Pin. NOTE – Mark ½ inch from the bottom edge of the Top Back Lining. Stitch, stopping at the ½ inch mark. Repeat to attach other Side Back Lining to other side of Top Back Lining. Stitch Front and Back Linings right sides together at side seams. Stitch Back and Front Sleeve Lining right sides together. Stitch long raw edges of Sleeve Lining right sides together. Press seam open. Repeat for second Front and Back Sleeve Lining. Ease each Sleeve into the lining and sew. Stitch a second time for added strength.
- ATTACHING LINING – Press hem ½ inch to the wrong side on Lining Top Back and Side Back. Place Lining onto Main Facing (Front and Side Back), right sides together, matching centers. Starting at center back, stitch all the way along, stopping at the memory hem. Repeat on other side. Turn right sides out. Tuck Sleeve Lining inside Main Sleeve. Press hem edge on Main and Lining Sleeve ½ inch to wrong side. Matching the seams, pin Main and Lining together at pressed edge. Slip stitch together. Press. Repeat for other Main and Lining Sleeve. Open blazer. Pin memory hem of Top Back and Side Back to Bottom Lining seam. Slip stitch together. OPTIONAL, topstitch around outer edge of Collar, Front Facing, Back Facing and Sleeves.
- FASTENINGS – Stitch buttonholes and buttons at markings.
- OPTIONAL BOW – Fold Bow in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edge, leaving a 1 inch gap. Turn out. Align short edges right sides together. Stitch. Fold fabric under by ½ inch. Use slipstitch to close gap. Press seam to middle. Hand stitch middle of Bow together. Fold Bow Center in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch one short and the long edge. Clip corner and trim seam allowance. Turn out and press. Fold open short edge ½ inch to wrong side. Pin. Wrap Center around right side of Bow, inserting closed end into open. Stitch. Hand stitch Bow onto center front of dress or Waistband.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
Unlined Blazer Option
0 .Seam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.2Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.3Interfacing
Use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Collar, Front Facing, Back Neck Facing and Side Back Facing. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Bow, apply to Bow and Center.
0.4Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that are used around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the neckline, Side Front, and Sleeves are likely to stretch and then your garment won’t fit properly.
Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch the neckline on the Main and Lining Top Back. Starting at the center, stitch towards each side in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the Main and Lining Side Front where it attaches to the Front, starting at the top and stitching down towards the bottom in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the armscye on the Main and Lining Side Back and Side Front, starting at the centers or bottoms and stitching out in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the back sleeve seam of both the Main and Lining Front and Back Sleeves, starting at the top and stitching down.
0.5OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are sewing the unlined option and are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold bias binding to finish the seams.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
NOTE – You do not need binding if you are using serger.
0.6If you are sewing an Unlined OPTION, follow steps 1 to 9.
If you are sewing a Lined OPTION, follow steps 10 to 20.
1 . Pleated Back OPTIONSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
1.0If you are sewing the Plain Back OPTION, skip to step 2.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the two Pleated Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn right side out. Press. Follow steps 1.4 to 1.11. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance away from the Bottom.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
1.1Place the two Pleated Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge.
1.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.3Turn it right sides out and press the seam.
1.4Understitch the seam allowance to the inside Pleated Bottom piece.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Pleated Bottom piece approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the two Bottom pieces join.
Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the blazer.
NOTE – The understitched piece will be on the inside of the blazer.
1.5Baste the other three raw edges together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Bottom piece.
1.6You are going to create a box pleat at the center top edge.
Lay the Bottom right side facing up. Match the two pattern markings nearest the center, wrong sides together. Pin at this point and at the top of the fold.
Flatten the pleat, matching pins to center it evenly. Pin in place.
1.7You will now create two knife pleats on either side of the box pleat, facing towards the side seam.
Take the fabric at the second marking and fold it wrong sides together matching the marking to the fold of the box pleat. Fold the fabric towards the side, right sides together, creating your first knife pleat. Pin.
NOTE – The fold of the pleat should be facing towards the side seam.
1.8Repeat step 1.7 folding the third marking to the fold of the first knife pleat, creating the second knife pleat.
1.9Now repeat steps 1.7 to 1.8 creating the second set of knife pleats on the other side of the box pleat.
1.10Baste the pleats to secure them using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.11Lay the Top Back right side facing up. Place the Bottom right sides together, matching the top pleated edge to straight bottom edge of the Top Back. Pin.
1.12Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.13To finish the seam, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape as follows:
Open out the binding and place it at the seam, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
1.14Stitch in place by stitching along the fold on the bias tape.
1.15Hold the binding away from the seam. Trim the seam allowance approximately ⅛ inch.
1.16Fold the binding over the seam to enclose all raw edges. Pin.
1.17Edge stitch along the bias ⅛ inch from the edge.
1.18Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the Bottom.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Back piece.
Skip to step 3.
2 . Plain Back OPTION2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the two Plain Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn right side out. Press. Follow steps 2.4 to 2.6. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance away from the Bottom.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
2.1Place the two Plain Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge.
2.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.3Turn it right sides out and press the seam.
2.4Understitch the seam allowance to the inside Plain Bottom piece.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Plain Bottom piece approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the two Bottom pieces join.
Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the blazer.
NOTE – The understitched piece will be on the inside of the blazer.
2.5Baste the other three raw edges together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Bottom piece.
2.6Lay the Top Back right side facing up. Place the Bottom right sides together, matching the top edge to straight bottom edge of the Top Back. Pin.
2.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.8To finish the seam, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape as follows:
Open out the binding and place it at the seam, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
2.9Stitch in place by stitching along the fold on the bias tape.
2.10Hold the binding away from the seam. Trim the seam allowance approximately ⅛ inch.
2.11Fold the binding over the seam to enclose all raw edges. Pin.
2.12Edge stitch along the bias ⅛ inch from the edge.
2.13Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the Bottom.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Back piece.
Skip to step 3.
3 . Constructing Blazer3.0NOTE – The construction steps are same for the Pleated or the Plain Back OPTION. The pictures show the Plain Back OPTION; however, the steps are the same.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Back right side facing up. Place the Fronts onto the Back right sides together, matching the shoulders. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Place the Side Fronts onto each side of the Fronts, right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Place the Side Backs onto each side of the Back, right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving ½ inch for turning at the bottom of the seam. Place the Back and Front right sides together at the side seams. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
3.1Lay the Back right side facing up. Place a Front piece right sides together, matching the shoulder. Pin.
3.2Repeat step 3.1 with the second Front piece.
3.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.4If you have sewn the Pleated Back OPTION, repeat steps 1.13 to 1.17 to finish the raw edges of the seams with binding.
If you have sewn the Plain Back OPTION, repeat steps 2.8 to 2.11 to finish the raw edges of the seams with binding.
Trim the ends of the binding. Press the seams towards the Back.
3.5Place the Side Front onto the Front, right sides together. Pin.
3.6Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – This is a curved edge, be careful when stitching. Go slowly and match the pieces at the seam line, not at the cut edges.
3.7Repeat step 3.4 to finish the raw edges of the seams.
Press the seams towards the side.
3.8Place a Side Back onto each side of the Back, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The Side Back is ½ inch longer than the Back. This will be attached to the Side Back Facing.
3.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the end of the Side Back piece, leaving ½ inch at the hem of the Back.
Press the seam towards the side.
3.10Place the Back and Front right sides together at the side seams. Pin.
3.11Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.12Repeat step 3.4 to finish all the raw edges of the seams.
Press the seams towards the Back.
4 . Collar4.1Place the two Collar pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge and the first short straight side.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.3Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk.
4.4Turn right side out, push out your corners, and press. Roll your seam a little to the underside, and press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
NOTE – The underside is the side without interfacing, and the top of the Collar is the side with interfacing.
4.5Find and mark the center of the Collar.
4.6Find and mark the center of the back neckline.
4.7Place the Collar onto the back neckline right sides together, with interfaced side of Collar nearest to Main Back, matching centers. Pin the long inside curved side of the Collar to the straight edge of the neckline.
NOTE – You are placing the interfaced side of the Collar right sides onto the Back.
Continue pinning together to the end of the Collar, all raw edges will be pinned.
NOTE – Ease the Collar along, pinning at the ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges. If you need a little help easing your fabric, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Take care when doing this to go no further than halfway into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your Collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.
4.8Starting at the center, baste along one side, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Then baste again from the center in the opposite direction.
4.9Clip into the corners of the Front. This will help the Collar sit correctly.
5 . Facing5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Front Facing right side up. Place the Side Back Facing at the end of the Front Facing right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for other Front Facing. Place both Front Facings onto the Back Neckline Facing right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Skip to step 5.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
5.1Lay the Front Facing right side up. Place the Side Back Facing right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The edges that will be attached are labelled on the pattern pieces.
5.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.2 to attach the second Front Facing and Side Back Facing together.
5.3Place both Front Facings onto the Back Neckline Facing right sides together. Pin.
5.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.5Press the seam allowances open.
NOTE – This is will now be the Facing piece.
5.6Find and mark the center of the back neckline on the Facing.
Lay the Bodice right side out. Place the Facing onto the Bodice, right sides together, matching center points on the back neckline, and the shoulder seams of the Bodice to the seams of the Front and Back Facing. Pin together, sandwiching the Collar in between. Pin the Side Back Facing to the Side Back.
5.7Starting at the center back, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching all the way along that side.
Repeat on the other side.
Stitching this way helps keep the Facing in the right place.
NOTE – To stitch the corners, stop ½ inch from the edge. Drop the needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric, drop the presser foot, and continue around still stitching with a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The stitch line should finish at the ½ inch seam allowance that has been left open. This so when the Back Facing is turned up the seam is flush with the Back Panel.
5.8Snip around the curve of the neckline and layer the seam allowance, snip into the seam allowance at the angles of the Collar. This will reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
5.9Clip the corners. This will reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
Turn the Facing right sides out.
Press.
5.10Repeat step 3.4 to finish the raw edge of this seam.
5.11Lay the Blazer right side up. Fold the Back so that Side Back and Back are right sides together. Flip the Side Back Facing so that the right side of the Side Back Facing lays onto the wrong side of the Back. Pin the short edge at the Seam allowance.
5.12Stitch from the raw edge to the seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.13Clip the corner to reduce bulk.
5.14Turn the corners right sides out.
Press.
Repeat steps 5.11 to 5.14 on the other side.
5.15OPTIONAL – Topstitch along the outer edge of the Collar and Front Facing down the front lapel and around through the back of the blazer, using ¼ inch seam allowance.
6 . Sleeves6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place Back and Front Sleeve right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Match the two long raw edges of the Front and Back Sleeve right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for other Back and Front Sleeve. Follow steps 6.7 to 6.11. Serge the bottom raw edges of the Sleeve. Fold your Sleeve ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge. Repeat for second Sleeve. Skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Place Back and Front Sleeve right sides together. Pin.
Pin the Front Sleeve and Back Sleeve together along the long edges with the right sides together. The Back Sleeve will have a slightly longer raw edge than the Front sleeve. The point of this should stick out at the top so that when you stitch using your ½ inch seam allowance, the stitching starts right in the V of the point where the two meet. To get this to line up correctly, pin from the bottom to the top of the sleeve.
6.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.3Repeat step 3.4 to finish the raw edge of this seam.
6.4Match the two long raw edges of the Front and Back Sleeve right sides together. Pin.
6.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.6Repeat step 3.4 to finish the raw edge of this seam.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.6 for the second Front and Back Sleeve.
6.7When setting in the Sleeve, you will notice the Sleeve head is larger than the Sleeve opening. You will be easing the Sleeve in around the seam line, not the raw edges. This is a tailored style Sleeve that gives the Sleeve a slight puffed appearance at the shoulder that ready to wear coats have.
For tips on how to set in a traditional tailored style Sleeve, watch the video here. This video is for the Kingston Coat, but the technique is the same. Then follow the steps below.
Turn the Sleeve right side out and the blazer wrong side out.
Slide the Sleeve inside the Sleeve opening, right sides together, matching the side seam of the blazer to the Sleeve seam. Pin.
NOTE – The Back Sleeve section (the smaller of the two Sleeve pieces) should be going towards the back of the blazer. Check you have matched the correct Sleeve to the correct armhole before continuing.
6.8Hold the pieces so that the blazer is on the bottom and the Sleeve is on the top. Pull the blazer piece taut and hold the Sleeve relaxed.
Using your thumb, smooth the Sleeve fabric so that it is flat and smooth at the seam.
The seam allowance will look rippled, that is okay. It’s the section of fabric where you’ll be stitching (½ inch in from the edge) which you want flat.
NOTE – Do not try to align the raw edges, they will not match. It is at the seam allowance (½ inch from the edge) that you need to ease the fabric, so it matches.
6.9Continue to pin around the Sleeve head, being sure to pull the blazer piece taut and ease in the Sleeve at the seam.
6.10Go slowly and sew the Sleeve into the Sleeve opening using a ½ inch seam allowance.
When you sew the Sleeve, sew with the blazer on the bottom and the Sleeve on top. Hold the pieces so that they are curved up so that the blazer piece stays taut and the Sleeve piece is relaxed.
Make sure you are sewing right on the ½ inch seam allowance so that the Sleeve fabric is flat and you are not sewing on the rippled part.
Turn the blazer right way out and check your fabric is smooth around the armhole on both the blazer and the Sleeve.
6.11Turn the Sleeve back inside out. Stitch around the armhole again, this time inside the seam allowance ¼ inch from the edge.
The armhole is one of the most stressed areas of the garment when it is being worn (it moves so much and gets pulled, twisted and pressure put on). By stitching this second row of stitches gives it more strength.
Press the seam allowance towards the bodice.
6.12Repeat step 3.4 to finish the raw edge of the armscye.
6.13Repeat step 3.4 to finish the raw hem edge of the Sleeve hem.
NOTE – Fold the short straight edge ¼ to the wrong side first. Press. Then overlap the other side of the binding, covering this folded edge.
FIT CHECK – Before hemming, try the Blazer on to check the Sleeve length. Adjust the Sleeve if needed.
6.14Fold your Sleeve 1 ¼ inch to the wrong side. Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the binding to the Sleeve.
Thread your needle, tying the two-thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.
Push your needle up from the inside of the fold to the outside, through the binding, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. Try to make it very small so that it is not visible from the outside of the Blazer.
Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
Repeat these steps around the hem.
To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches.
To end off, create a loop for the needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and pass the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching, repeat this step. Snip the threads.
Repeat steps 6.7 to 6.14 to insert the second Sleeve.
NOTE – The image show a smaller hem, however the steps are the same.
7 . OPTIONAL Shoulder Pads7.0Adding shoulder pads lift the Sleeve and gives a beautiful shape. If you would like to add shoulder pads to your jacket, please follow the steps below. If you would prefer to leave them out, please skip to step 10.
7.1Fold the shoulder pad in half and add pins at the top and bottom to mark the center.
7.2With wrong sides facing out, match the center of the top (curved edge) of the shoulder pad to the center shoulder seam and pin.
Line up the long edge of the shoulder pad with the raw edge of the Sleeve seam, matching the center of the shoulder pad to the center of the curved part of the Sleeve. Pin the shoulder pad to the Sleeve seam at the center and each end.
7.3Tack the shoulder pad in place, where you have pinned, by hand sewing through the seam allowances only. Be careful not to tack the jacket.
Remove the pins.
Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.3 for the other shoulder pad.
8 . Fastenings8.0NOTE – The images show a lined blazer, however this step is the same.
8.1Using the markings you transferred in the preparation step, sew buttonholes to the Front (through the Front and Front Facing layers).
FIT CHECK – Try on your blazer now to double check buttonhole placement. If your buttonhole placement needs to change, evenly distribute your buttonholes from this point. Also, match the new button markings to your new buttonholes before attaching.
NOTE – The buttonholes are traditionally on the right side (with buttons on the left).
NOTE – Your buttonholes can be aligned either vertically up and down, or horizontally across. You’ll notice ready-to-wear blazers are often a mix of the two techniques and it is often a matter of personal preference. I prefer my buttonholes horizontal as it means the Facing cannot move up and down, but it does mean the front can open and close slightly while buttoned. To counter this, many blazers have a horizontal buttonhole at the top with the rest vertical.
TIP – Test a buttonhole on a scrap of fabric first to check it fits your button.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.
8.2Hand stitch your buttons onto the Front at the pattern markings.
TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure they will line up. If needed, move any buttons to align better with your buttonholes.
Give your blazer a final press for that tailored finish.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Bow, your Spring Blazer is finished!
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Bow, follow below.
9 . OPTIONAL Bow9.1Fold the Bow in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin the long edge.
9.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 1-inch gap at the end (for turning).
9.3Turn right side out.
Align the short edges right sides together. Pin.
9.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.5Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the gap closed.
Fold your fabric under by ½ inch. You will be stitching along this folded edge.
Thread your needle, tying the two-thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.
Push your needle up from the inside of the Bow to the outside, through one of the folds, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.
Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
9.6Press the seam to the middle.
9.7Pinch the middle of the Bow together.
Hand stitch together.
9.8Fold the Bow Center in half right sides together. Pin one short and the long edge.
TIP – If you are using a directional print, check the direction is correct before pinning.
9.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip the corner. This will reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
9.10Turn right way out. If you have a preferred method to do this, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
Open the seam allowance stitched in step 8.9. Insert the top of the chopstick to the stitching. Push the Handle over the chopstick, pushing it all the way over the chopstick, until it is turned right side out. Push the chopstick back out through the gap.
Press.
Turn it right side out. Press.
9.11Fold the open short edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Pin.
9.12Wrap the Center around the right side of the Bow.
Tuck the closed short end into the open short end. Pin.
9.13Hand stitch together.
NOTE – This will become the back of the Bow. The back is stitched onto the blazer.
9.14Hand stitch the Bow to the Back of your Blazer at the seam where the Top and Bottom are sewn together.
TIP – If you would like your Bow to be removable, attach it with a safety pin.
Your Spring Blazer is finished!
10 . Pleated Back OPTIONSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
10.0If you are doing the Plain Back Panel OPTION, skip to step 11.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Main and Lining Pleated Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn right side out. Press. Follow steps 10.4 to 10.11. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance away from the Bottom. Skip to step 12.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
10.1Place the Main and Lining Pleated Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge.
10.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.3Turn it right sides out and press the seam.
10.4Understitch the seam allowance to the Pleated Bottom Lining.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Pleated Bottom Lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the two Bottom pieces join.
10.5Baste the other three raw edges together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Bottom piece.
10.6You are going to create a box pleat at the center top edge.
Lay the Bottom right side facing up. Match the two pattern markings nearest the center, wrong sides together. Pin at this point and at the top of the fold.
Flatten the pleat, matching pins to center it evenly. Pin in place.
10.7You will now create two knife pleats on either side of the box pleat, facing towards the side seam.
Take the fabric at the second marking and fold it wrong sides together matching the marking to the fold of the box pleat. Fold the fabric towards the side, right sides together, creating your first knife pleat. Pin.
NOTE – The fold of the pleat should be facing towards the side seam.
10.8Repeat step 9.7 folding the third marking to the fold of the first knife pleat, creating the second knife pleat.
10.9Now repeat steps 9.7 to 9.8 creating the second set of knife pleats on the other side of the box pleat.
10.10Baste the pleats to secure them using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
10.11Lay the Main Top Back right side facing up. Place the Main Bottom right sides together, matching the top pleated edge to straight bottom edge of the Main Top Back. Pin.
10.12Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance up and away from the Bottom.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Back piece.
Skip to step 11.
11 . Plain Back OPTION11.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Main and Lining Pleated Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn right side out. Press. Follow steps 11.4 to 11.6. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance away from the Bottom.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
11.1Place the Main and Lining Plain Bottom pieces right sides together. Pin the bottom edge.
11.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
11.3Turn it right sides out and press the seam.
11.4Understitch the seam allowance to the Plain Bottom Lining.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Plain Bottom Lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the two Bottom pieces join.
Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the blazer.
11.5Baste the other three raw edges together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Bottom piece.
11.6Lay the Main Top Back right side facing up. Place the Main Bottom right sides together, matching the top edge to straight bottom edge of the Main Top Back. Pin.
NOTE – The Bottom Lining fabric pictured is the same fabric as the Main fabric.
11.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
11.8Press the seam allowance up and away from the Bottom.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Back piece.
12 . Constructing Blazer12.0NOTE – The construction steps are same for the Pleated and the Plain OPTIONS. In the pictures, you are going to see the Plain OPTION, but all the steps are the same for the Pleated.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the shoulders right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge the Front and Front side pieces right sides together on both sides of the garment. Serge the Back and Back Side pieces right sides together, leaving ½ inch for turning at the bottom of the seam. Repeat on both sides of the garment. Serge the Back and Front sides right sides together. Skip to step 13.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
12.1Lay the Main Back right side facing up. Place a Front piece right sides together, matching the shoulder. Pin.
12.2Repeat step 12.1 with the second Front piece.
12.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
12.4Press the seam allowances open.
12.5Place the Main Side Front onto the Front, right sides together. Pin.
Repeat for the other Main Side Front and Front.
12.6Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
Press the seam allowances open.
TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam.
NOTE – This is a curved edge, be careful when stitching. Go slowly and match the pieces at the seam line, not at the cut edges.
12.7Place a Main Side Back onto each side of the Main Back, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The Side Back is ½ inch longer than the Back. This will be attached to the Side Back Facing.
12.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the end of the Main Back piece, leaving ½ inch at the hem of the Side Back.
Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
12.9Snip the seam allowance ½ inch above the seam where the Bottom joins the Top Back.
Press the seam allowances above the snip open, and below to the side.
TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam.
12.10Place the Main Back and Main Front right sides together at the side seams. Pin.
12.11Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowances open.
13 . Collar13.1Place the two Collar pieces right sides together. Pin along the bottom edge and the straight edges on either side of the bottom.
13.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
13.3Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk.
13.4Turn right side out, push out your corners, and press. Roll your seam a little to the underside, and press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
NOTE – The underside is the side without interfacing, and the top of the Collar is the side with interfacing.
13.5Find and mark the center of the Collar.
13.6Find and mark the center of the back neckline.
13.7Place the Collar onto the back neckline right sides together with interfaced side of Collar nearest to Main Back, matching centers. Pin the long inside curved side of the Collar to the straight edge of the neckline.
NOTE – You are placing the interfaced side of the Collar right sides onto the Back.
Continue pinning together to the end of the Collar, all raw edges will be pinned.
NOTE – Ease the Collar along, pinning at the ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges. If you need a little help easing your fabric, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Take care when doing this to go no further than halfway into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your Collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.
13.8Starting at the center, baste along one side, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Then baste again from the center in the opposite direction.
13.9Clip into the corners of the Front. This will help the Collar sit correctly.
14 . Facing14.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Front Facing right side up. Place the Side Back Facing at the end of the Front Facing right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for other Front Facing. Place both Front Facings onto the Back Neckline Facing right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Skip to step 14.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
14.1Lay the Front Facing right side up. Place the Side Back Facing right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The edges that will be attached are labelled on the pattern pieces.
14.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 14.1 to 14.2 to attach the second Front Facing and Side Back Facing together.
14.3Place both Front Facings onto the Back Neckline Facing, right sides together. Pin.
14.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
14.5Press the seams allowances open.
NOTE – This is will now be the Facing piece.
14.6Find and mark the center of the back neckline on the Facing.
Lay the Bodice right side out. Place the Facing onto the Bodice, right sides together, matching center points on the back neckline, and the shoulder seams of the Bodice to the seams of the Front and Back Facing. Pin together, sandwiching the Collar in between. Pin the Side Back Facing to the Side Back.
14.7Starting at the center back, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching all the way along that side.
Repeat on the other side.
Stitching this way helps keep the Facing in the right place.
NOTE – To stitch the corners, stop ½ inch from the edge. Drop the needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric, drop the presser foot, and continue around still stitching with a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The stitch line should finish at the ½ inch seam allowance that has been left open. This so when the Back Facing is turned up the seam is flush with the Back Panel.
14.8Snip around the curve of the neckline and layer the seam allowance, snip into the seam allowance at the angles of the Collar. This will reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
14.9Clip the corners. This will reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
Turn the Facing right sides out.
Press.
14.10Lay the Blazer right side up. Fold the Back so that Side Back and Back are right sides together. Flip the Side Back Facing so that the right side of the Side Back Facing lays on the Back Lining. Pin the short edge at the seam allowance.
14.11Stitch from the raw edge to the seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
14.12Clip the corner to reduce bulk.
14.13Turn the corners right sides out.
Press.
Repeat steps 14.10 to 14.13 on the other side.
15 . Sleeves15.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place Main Back and Front Sleeve right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Match the two long raw edges of the Main Front and Back Sleeve right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to the back. Repeat for other Main Back and Front Sleeve. Skip to step 15.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
15.1Place Main Back and Main Front Sleeve right sides together. Pin.
Pin the Front Sleeve and Back Sleeve together along the long edges with the right sides together. The Back Sleeve will have a slightly longer raw edge than the Front sleeve. The point of this should stick out at the top so that when you stitch using your ½ inch seam allowance, the stitching starts right in the V of the point where the two meet. To get this to line up correctly, pin from the bottom to the top of the sleeve.
15.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance starting from the top of the sleeve.
15.3Match the two long raw edges of the Main Front and Main Back Sleeve right sides together. Pin.
15.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
15.5Press the seam allowances open as best as you can.
Repeat steps 15.1 to 15.5 for the second Front and Back Sleeve.
15.6When setting in the Sleeve, you will notice the Sleeve head is larger than the Sleeve opening. You will be easing the Sleeve in around the seam line, not the raw edges. This is a tailored style Sleeve that gives the Sleeve a slight puffed appearance at the shoulder that ready to wear coats have.
For tips on how to set in a traditional tailored style Sleeve, watch the video here. This video is for the Kingston Coat, but the technique is the same. Then follow the steps below.
Turn the Main Sleeve right side out and the blazer wrong side out.
Slide the Main Sleeve inside the sleeve opening, right sides together, matching the side seam of the blazer to the Sleeve seam. Pin.
NOTE – The Main Back Sleeve section (the smaller of the two Sleeve pieces) should be going towards the back of the blazer. Check you have matched the correct Sleeve to the correct armhole before continuing.
15.7Hold the pieces so that the blazer is on the bottom and the Main Sleeve is on the top. Pull the blazer piece taut and hold the Sleeve relaxed.
Using your thumb, smooth the Sleeve fabric so that it is flat and smooth at the seam.
The seam allowance will look rippled, that is okay. It’s the section of fabric where you’ll be stitching (½ inch in from the edge) which you want flat.
NOTE – Do not try to align the raw edges, they will not match. It is at the seam allowance (½ inch from the edge) that you need to ease the fabric, so it matches.
15.8Continue to pin around the Sleeve head, being sure to pull the blazer piece taut and ease in the Sleeve at the seam.
15.9Go slowly and sew the Sleeve into the Sleeve opening using a ½ inch seam allowance.
When you sew the Sleeve, sew with the blazer on the bottom and the Sleeve on top. Hold the pieces so that they are curved up so that the blazer piece stays taut, and the Sleeve piece is relaxed.
Make sure you are sewing right on the ½ inch seam allowance so that the Sleeve fabric is flat, and you are not sewing on the rippled part.
Turn the blazer right way out and check your fabric is smooth around the armhole on both the blazer and the Sleeve.
15.10Turn the Main Sleeve back inside out. Stitch around the armhole again, this time inside the seam allowance ¼ inch from the edge.
The armhole is one of the most stressed areas of the garment when it is being worn (it moves so much and gets pulled, twisted and pressure put on). By stitching this second row of stitches gives it more strength.
Press the seam allowance towards the bodice.
Repeat steps 15.6 to 15.10 to attach the second Main Sleeve.
16 . OPTIONAL Shoulder Pads16.0Adding shoulder pads lift the Sleeve and gives a beautiful shape. If you would like to add shoulder pads to your jacket, please follow the steps below. If you would prefer to leave them out, please skip to step 17.
16.1Fold the shoulder pad in half and add pins at the top and bottom to mark the center.
16.2With wrong sides facing out, match the center of the top (curved edge) of the should pad to the center shoulder seam and pin.
Line up the long edge of the shoulder pad with the raw edge of the Sleeve seam, matching the center of the shoulder pad to the center of the curved part of the Sleeve. Pin the shoulder pad to the Sleeve seam at the center and each end.
16.3Tack the shoulder pad in place, where you have pinned, by hand sewing through the seam allowances only. Be careful not to tack the jacket.
Remove the pins.
Repeat steps 16.1 to 16.3 for the other shoulder pad.
NOTE – The image of the jacket shown here is the half back lined option but attaching the shoulder pads is the same for both lined options.
17 . Lining17.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 17.1 to 17.3. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to the side. Place each Front Lining onto the Back Lining right sides together, matching the shoulders. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to the back. Place a Side Back Lining onto the Top Back Lining right sides together, matching the bottom of the Top Back Lining to the pattern marking, keeping the Front Lining out of the way. Pin. NOTE – Mark ½ inch from the bottom edge of the Top Back Lining. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the ½ inch mark on the Top Back Lining. Repeat to attach the other Side Back Lining to other side of the Top Back Lining. Place the Front and Back Linings right sides together at the side seams. Pin. Serge both sides using a ½ inch seam allowance. Place the Back and Front Sleeve Lining right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Match the two long raw edges of the Sleeve Lining right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press seam to the back. Repeat for the second Front and Back Sleeve Lining. Skip to step 17.18.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
17.1Lay the Top Back Lining right side facing up. Match the two pattern markings, wrong sides together. Pin at this point and at the top of the fold.
Flatten the pleat, matching pins to center it evenly. Pin in place.
17.2Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
17.3Place the Front Lining and Side Front Lining right sides together. Pin.
17.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
17.5Press the seam allowance open.
Repeat steps 17.3 to 17.5 to attach the other Front Lining and Side Front Lining together.
TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam.
17.6Place each Front Lining onto the Back Lining right sides together, matching the shoulders. Pin.
17.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
Press the seam allowances open.
17.8Place the Top Back Lining onto the Side Back Lining at the pattern marking right sides together, matching the bottom of the Top Back Lining with the pattern marking on the Side Back, keeping the Front Lining out of the way. Pin.
NOTE – Mark ½ inch from the bottom edge of the Top Back Lining.
17.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the ½ inch mark on the Top Back Lining.
17.10Repeat steps 17.8 to 17.9 to attach the other Side Back Lining to other side of the Top Back Lining.
Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
Press the seam allowances open.
17.11Place the Front and Back Linings right sides together at the side seams. Pin.
17.12Stitch both sides using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowances open.
17.13Place the Back and Front Sleeve Lining right sides together. Pin.
17.14Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
17.15Match the two long raw edges of the Sleeve Lining right sides together. Pin.
17.16Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
17.17Press the seam allowance open as best as you can.
Repeat steps 17.13 to 17.14 for the second Front and Back Sleeve Lining.
17.18Turn one Sleeve Lining right side out and the Blazer Lining wrong side out.
With right sides together, slide the Sleeve in the Sleeve opening, matching the side seam of the blazer to the sleeve seam.
The Back Sleeve Lining section (the smaller of the two Sleeve pieces) should be going towards the back of the blazer. Check you have matched the correct Sleeve to the correct armhole before continuing.
Pin at the blazer side seam.
17.19Repeat steps 15.6 to 15.10 to attach the Sleeve Lining.
Repeat steps 17.18 to 17.19 for the second Sleeve Lining.
18 . Attaching Lining18.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 18.1 to 18.2. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the memory hem. Skip to step 18.4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
18.1Fold the Lining hem ½ inch to the wrong side on the Bottom and Side Back pieces. Press, creating a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the lining. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later.
18.2Place the Lining onto the Main Facing (Front and Side Back), right sides together, matching the center of the Back Facing to the center of the Lining box pleat. Pin.
18.3Starting at the center back, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching all the way along, stopping at the memory hem.
Repeat on the other side.
18.4Turn your Blazer right sides out through the gap at the back.
18.5Tuck the Sleeve Lining inside the Main Sleeve.
Fold the hem edge on the Main and Lining ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
FIT Check – Before hemming, try the Blazer on to check the Sleeve length. Adjust the Sleeve if needed.
18.6Matching the seams, pin the Main and Lining together at the pressed edge.
18.7Hand stitch them together using a slipstitch.
Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the gap closed.
Thread your needle, tying the two-thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.
Push your needle up from the inside of the Lining to the outside, through one of the folds, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.
Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
18.8The Sleeve Lining is approximately 1 ¼ inch shorter than the Main Sleeve. Once stitched together the Main Sleeve will roll to the wrong side, hiding the stitching and lining inside. Press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the hem using ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 18.5 to 18.8 for the other Sleeve.
18.9Open the blazer. Pin the memory hem of the Top Back and Side Back to the Bottom Lining seam.
Repeat step 18.7 to hand stitch the pieces together.
18.10OPTIONAL – Topstitch along the outer edge of the Collar and Front Facing down the front lapel and around through the back of the blazer, using ¼ inch seam allowance, stopping where the Facing overlaps.
19 . Fastenings19.1Using the markings you transferred in the preparation step, sew buttonholes to the Front (through the Front and Front Facing layers).
FIT CHECK – Try on your blazer now to double check buttonhole placement. If your buttonhole placement needs to change, evenly distribute your buttonholes from this point. Also, match the new button markings to your new buttonholes before attaching.
NOTE – The buttonholes are traditionally on the right side (with buttons on the left).
NOTE – Your buttonholes can be aligned either vertically up and down, or horizontally across. You’ll notice ready-to-wear blazers are often a mix of the two techniques and it is often a matter of personal preference. I prefer my buttonholes horizontal as it means the Facing cannot move up and down, but it does mean the front can open and close slightly while buttoned. To counter this, many blazers have a horizontal buttonhole at the top with the rest vertical.
TIP – Test a buttonhole on a scrap of fabric first to check it fits your button.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.
19.2Hand stitch your buttons onto the Front at the pattern markings.
Give your blazer a final press for that tailored finish.
TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure they will line up. If needed, move any buttons to align better with your buttonholes.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Bow, your Spring Blazer is finished!
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Bow, follow below.
20 . OPTIONAL Bow20.1Fold the Bow in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin the long edge.
20.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 1-inch gap at the end (for turning).
20.3Turn right side out.
Align the short edges right sides together. Pin.
20.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
20.5Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the gap closed.
Fold your fabric under by ½ inch. You will be stitching along this folded edge.
Thread your needle, tying the two-thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.
Push your needle up from the inside of the Bow to the outside, through one of the folds, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.
Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
20.6Press the seam to the middle.
20.7Pinch the middle of the Bow together.
Hand stitch together.
20.8Fold the Bow Center in half right sides together. Pin one short and the long edge.
TIP – If you are using a directional print, check the direction is correct before pinning.
20.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip the corner. This will reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
20.10Turn right way out. If you have a preferred method to do this, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
Open the seam allowance stitched in step 8.9. Insert the top of the chopstick to the stitching. Push the fabric over the chopstick, pushing it all the way over the chopstick, until it is turned right side out. Pull the chopstick back out through the gap.
Press.
20.11Fold the open short edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Pin.
20.12Wrap the Center around the right side of the Bow.
Tuck the closed short end into the open short end. Pin.
20.13Hand stitch together.
NOTE – This will become the back of the Bow. The back is stitched onto the blazer.
20.14Hand stitch the Bow to the Back of your Blazer at the seam where the Top and Bottom are sewn together.
Your Spring Blazer is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Spring Blazer is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpspringblazer.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSpring Blazer
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
Sew this beautiful lined or unlined blazer. With its statement angled collar and lapel which buttons up, a two piece sleeve and princess seams at the front and back and optional shoulder pads, this blazer is the perfect statement piece for Spring. Choose between a fully lined or unlined blazer with bound seams. The back has an option for a plain or pleated panel. Add an optional bow for that little something extra.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center back to hem
Across shoulder
Bicep
Sleeve length
XXS
32.0
25.5
37.0
25.3
15.3
12.2
24.0
XS
34.0
27.5
39.0
25.5
15.7
13.0
24.1
S
36.0
28.5
41.0
25.7
16.1
13.5
24.3
M
38.0
30.5
43.0
26.0
16.5
14.5
24.5
L
40.0
32.5
45.0
26.1
17.3
15.2
24.7
XL
43.0
35.5
48.0
26.5
18.0
16.0
25.0
XXL
46.0
38.5
51.0
27.0
19.0
17.0
25.1
3XL
49.0
42.5
54.0
27.6
20.0
18.0
25.2
4XL
52.0
46.5
57.0
28.0
20.6
18.6
25.3
5XL
55.0
50.5
60.0
28.5
21.5
19.5
25.5
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – The exterior of the blazer needs to be a light to medium weight woven. Cotton, cotton poplin, gabardine drill, rayon, corduroy, or a denim. If you are lining your blazer you can use a linen. You could use a slightly heavier weight fabric if you are not lining it. If your fabric is light weight it will drape more. A more structured fabric will give it a crisper silhouette.
OPTIONAL Lining fabric – The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics including lining, cotton, quilting cotton, satin, duchess satin. Fabrics with less drape (e.g. cotton) will be easier to handle and sew. Fabrics that are smoother will slide over shirts a bit more easily than a quilting cotton. Fabrics such as silk can be used for the lining but are only recommended for someone with experience using them as lining.
Do not use a knit/stretch fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
OPTIONAL Lining
Bow
XXS – XS
2.50
1.75
0.50
S – L
2.75
1.75
0.50
XL – XXL
3.00
2.00
0.50
3XL – 4XL
3.25
2.00
0.50
5XL
3.50
2.25
0.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
OPTIONAL Lining
Bow
XXS
2.00
1.50
0.50
S – L
2.25
1.50
0.50
XL
2.50
1.75
0.50
3XL
2.50
2.00
0.50
5XL
2.75
2.00
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 3x 1-inch-wide Buttons.
- Interfacing – 1.25 yard should be enough for all sizes.
- Unlined OPTION – 1 ½ inches wide bias binding. Approximately 10 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- 2 x OPTIONAL shoulder pads.
- Thread to match.
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, disappearing ink pen/tailors chalk. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.