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Home / Womens / Garments, Jackets and Coats, Outerwear
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
7
Stella Coat
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
This incredible coat pattern is fully lined and tailored, giving you a classic, beautiful and flattering outer layer. The coat features a funnel neck, hidden button placket, a high-low skirt and close fitting sleeves with mock buttons. There are also optional welt pockets, shoulder pads, and a mock belt.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – If you fall between sizes, use the size with the correct chest measurement. That way, the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then, grade out or in, to the correct waist and hip sizes. Before selecting a size, please also review the note below about cup sizes. Please check the finished garment measurements by holding a tape measure around your body while wearing the type of clothing you want to wear underneath. If your size is too snug for the fit you want, try the next size up. Do not size up more than one size or you may find the shoulders and armhole do not sit properly. If you wish to use a thicker fabric than those recommended, again size up by one size to ensure it is not too snug.
- Ladies height adjustment – Our patterns are graded for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. As this coat has a full high low hem, you will need to adjust for height at the waist, blending from the bodice into the ‘skirt’, keeping the shape of the waist. If you also need to distribute height throughout the body, follow this tutorial to adjust the bodice and sleeve.
- Ladies bust adjustment – Ladies sizes are designed for a sewing C cup (approximately a ready-to-wear B cup) If your bust size is below a C cup, you should not necessarily need to do a small bust adjustment, however, do check at the shoulder assembly stage that the chest area fits well. If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial to adjust the bodice.
- Sleeve fit – The sleeve is a traditional two-part sleeve. It will feel different than a one-piece sleeve as it is curved and shaped to your arm. The shaping is important as it allows your arm to move. This should still be fitted but may be wider than you are used to and sit differently. When you lift your arm directly to the side, the sleeve will twist slightly at the bicep, but it should not be so tight that it cuts in. This is an important part to check and adjust if necessary, at the muslin stage. If you need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve do this halfway down and at the hem.
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting so you shouldn’t need to make any adjustments. Once you’ve made your muslin and feel you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller follow this tutorial.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you first sew a muslin to check the fit. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment to do this. This is how I would recommend you muslin this coat:
- Use an inexpensive woven fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out all main pieces. Label each with tailors chalk or a fabric pen so you know later which is which.
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue on to sewing your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces…. It’s like having a tailor-made garment so they’re a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include lining, cotton, quilting cotton, satin, duchess satin. Fabrics with less drape (e.g. cotton) will be easier to handle and sew. Fabrics that are smoother will slide over shirts a bit more easily than a quilting cotton.
- Fabrics such as silk can be used for the lining but are only recommended for someone with experience using them as lining.
- You can also use a thicker woven fabric such as flannel or fleece. However, please check the finished garment measurements as the coat may be quite fitted on you. If it will be, then you would need to size up in order to be able to use a thicker fabric such as these.
- Buttons:
- Approximately 1 inch / 25mm wide x7 for the Coat
- Approximately ½ inch / 12.5mm x8 for the Sleeves, plus 4 for the OPTIONAL Back Mock Belt
- TIP – If you don’t have somewhere local, you may find it most cost effective to search on Amazon or eBay for a good bulk button deal.
- 2x OPTIONAL Shoulder pads
- Iron-on interfacing – You will need iron on interfacing. Approximately 1-2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. A medium to lightweight interfacing is best.
- Thread to match
- Center Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Front Right – Cut 1
- Center Front Left – Cut 1
- Side Front Bodice – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Placket – Fabric Cut 1, Interfacing Cut 1
- Under Sleeve – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Top Sleeve – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Back Mock Belt – Cut 2
- OPTIONAL Hanging Loop – Cut 1
- Back Neck Facing – Fabric Cut 1, Interfacing Cut 1
- OPTIONAL Welt Pocket Flap – Cut 4
- OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket – Cut 1
- Center Front Facing Right: Fabric – Cut 1, Interfacing – Cut 1
- Center Front Facing Left: Fabric – Cut 1, Interfacing – Cut 1
- Center Back Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Back Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Front Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Front Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Under Sleeve Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Top Sleeve Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Welt Pocket Bag – Cut 4
- OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket Bag – Cut 2
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewStella
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
The Stella is a fully lined, tailored coat. The seamless, slightly funnel shaped collar and hidden button placket give it a sophisticated and classic look. The front princess seams create a flattering shape to the body, then flows into a high low hem full ‘skirt’. The coat has slim fitting sleeves with mock buttons, which gather slightly into the shoulders. With optional welt pockets, this will become your go to coat.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Center back length (neck to hem)
Sleeve length (from neck to cuff)
Bicep
XXS
34.0
28.0
48.5
23.5
14.0
XS
36.0
30.0
48.7
23.6
14.5
S
38.0
31.0
49.0
23.7
15.3
M
40.0
33.0
49.2
24.0
16.1
L
42.0
35.0
49.4
24.2
17.0
XL
45.0
38.0
50.0
24.3
17.1
XXL
48.0
41.0
50.3
24.5
17.7
3XL
51.0
45.0
51.0
24.6
18.6
4XL
54.0
49.0
51.4
24.7
19.5
5XL
57.0
53.0
52.0
25.0
20.4
Fitting NotesThis is a slim fitting coat. It’s designed so you can wear a long sleeve top underneath (not thick jumpers). The high low hem should hit just past your knee at the front and mid-calf at the back.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric
The exterior of the coat needs to be a medium weight woven with a bit of structure, like twill or a heavy cotton. You could also use a waterproof (such as PUL, nylon, or ripstop) or a heavy-duty cotton/poplin or gabardine drill. A light-weight fleece, wool or wool blend is also great.Lining fabric
Do not use a knit/stretch fabric for any part of the coat.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS
4.00
3.25
XS
4.25
3.50
S – L
4.50
3.75
XL
4.50
4.00
XXL
4.75
4.00
3XL
5.00
4.00
4XL – 5XL
5.00
4.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – XS
3.25
2.50
S
3.50
2.50
M – XL
3.50
3.00
XXL – 3XL
4.00
3.25
4XL
4.00
3.50
5XL
4.25
3.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, needle, scissors, tailors chalk/fabric pen, measuring tape, ruler and a point turner or blunt object such as a knitting needle or chopstick. Serger/overlocker not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Coat OPTIONAL Single Welt
PocketWelt
PocketBack Mock
BeltHanging
LoopXXS 2-3, 5, 7-18, 20-49, 51-76, 78-103, 108-109 6, 17 4, 107 76-77 2 XS – M 2-3, 5-76, 78-104, 108-109 6, 17 4, 107 76-77 2 L – XL 2-76, 78-104, 108-109 6, 17 4, 107 76-77 2 XXL 2-76, 78-105, 108-109 6, 17 4, 107 76-77 2 3XL 2-105, 108-109 6, 17 4, 107 76-77 2 4XL 2-106, 108-109 6, 17 4, 107 76-77 2 5XL 2-110 6, 17 4, 107 76-77 2 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Coat OPTIONAL Single Welt
PocketWelt
PocketBack Mock
BeltHanging
LoopXXS 2-3, 5, 7-58, 60-73, 76-94, 97-108 6, 16 4, 92 73-74 2 XS – M 2-3, 5, 7-73, 76-95, 97-108 6, 16 4, 92 73-74 2 L 2-3, 5, 7-74, 76-95, 97-108 6, 16 4, 92 73-74 2 XL 2-74, 76-95, 97-108 6, 16 4, 92 73-74 2 XXL 2-74, 76-108 6, 16 4, 92 73-74 2 3XL-5XL 2-108 6, 16 4, 92 73-74 2 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket
OPTIONAL Hanging Loop
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS – 5XL
4.6
2.0
3.0
1.5
Cutting Checklist:Main Fabric
Lining
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches to the fabric.
- INTERFACING – Use manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing to the Placket, Back Neck Facing and Center Front Facing pieces. For OPTIONAL Welt Pockets, apply interfacing to the Center Front Left and the Side Front Bodice at the pocket placement is.
- OPTIONAL SINGLE WELT POCKET – Fold Single Welt Pocket in half right sides together, stitch short ends, turn out. Pin to Center Front Left pocket placement line, stitch. Lay Single Welt Pocket Bag piece right side down, butt against the Single Welt Pocket, stitch. Lay the second Single Welt Pocket Bag on top of the Welt Pocket, pin, stitch. Turn Center Front Left piece over, stitch at the end of the short edges of the welt pocket stitching making a rectangle. Cut the pocket open. Pull the pocket pieces through the hole. Match pocket bags, pin, stitch, press.
- FRONT (MAIN AND LINING) – Stitch gathering stitches on the top of the left Side Front piece. Match the centers of the bottom left Side Front Bodice and the Side Front top raw edge. Gather Side Front to match the Side Front Bodice, pin, stitch, remove gathering stitches, press. Match princess seams of the Center Front Left and Side Front together, stitch, clip curve and press seam open. Repeat for the Right Side Front Bodice and Side Front. Repeat again for both Center Front Lining and Side Front Lining pieces. Stitch Center Front Facing Right and Front Lining Right sides together. Repeat with the Left Center Front Facing and Front Lining Left piece. Fold Placket in half right sides together, press. Open Placket match the side of the Placket without buttonholes to Center Front Right Main piece, pin, stitch. Fold Placket to back, press.
- OPTIONAL WELT POCKETS – Put two Welt Pocket Flap pieces right sides together, pin on curved edges, stitch, trim. Place Welt Pocket Flap onto Front Left pattern marking, pin, stitch. Put Welt Pocket Bag right sides together, raw edge against the Welt Pocket Flap, pin. Lay the other Welt Pocket Bag piece right sides together, raw edges of the Welt Pocket Bags butted together, pin, stitch. Cut the pocket open. Pull the Pocket Bag pieces through the hole. Match pocket bags, pin, stitch, press. Repeat for the Front Right Welt Pocket Flap and Pocket Bag pieces.
- BACK (MAIN AND LINING) – Put the Center Back and Side Back right sides together along curved seam, pin, stitch, clip curve, press. Repeat with the other Center Back and Side Back. Lay the two Back pieces right sides together along the center back seam, pin, stitch, press. Repeat for the Center Back Lining and Side Back Lining pieces.
- OPTIONAL BACK MOCK BELT – Put Back Mock Belt pieces right sides together, pin, stitch, trim, turn and topstitch. Mark center of Back Mock Belt. Match to the center of the Back center mark. Stitch buttons to the Back Mock Belt and Back piece.
- OPTIONAL HANGING LOOP – Make double fold bias tape from the Hanging Loop Strip, topstitch. Place ½ inch on each side of the center on Back Lining, stitch.
- BACK NECK FACING – Mark center of Back Neck Facing. Match center of Back Neck of the Facing to the center back seam of the neckline on the Back Lining, pin, stitch, clip, press.
- ATTACHING THE FRONT AND BACK (MAIN AND LINING) – Put the Back and Front Left right sides together at the shoulder seams, pin, stitch, press. Pin side seams together, stitch, press. Repeat with the Front Right and the Back and the Back and Front Lining pieces.
- SLEEVES (MAIN AND LINING) – Match the Under Sleeve and Top Sleeve, pin, mark 1 inch below the start of the vent, stitch, press, clip. Fold Top Sleeve vent over the Under Sleeve vent. Fold raw edge of Top Sleeve vent back into itself, press. Create memory hem. Stitch Sleeve side seams, press. Repeat for the other sleeve, and with the Sleeve Lining pieces.
- SETTING IN COAT SLEEVES (MAIN AND LINING) – Turn one Sleeve right side out, insert Sleeve into the Sleeve opening, pin, stitch so the fabric lays flat, stitch a second time around. Press. Repeat for the other Sleeve.
- OPTIONAL SHOULDER PADS – Fold shoulder pad in half, mark center. Match center of the sleeve seam, pin, tack in place. Repeat for other shoulder pad.
- FINISHING THE PLACKET – Put Main Coat and Coat Lining right sides together, match Placket with Center Front Right, pin, stitch, trim and press. Turn Coat right sides out, press the Placket. Fold the Placket right sides together, press. Stitch buttonholes then understitch between the Center Front Facing and the Placket. Hand stitch the Placket between the buttonholes. Flip the Coat Lining over the Main Coat, right sides together. Fold the Placket in half, stitch between the Placket seams. Put Main Coat and Lining right sides together, match the neckline. Pin starting 2 inches away from the placket, stitch, clip corner. Turn Coat right sides out, press well.
- ATTACHING THE LINING – Place the Coat Lining inside the Main Coat, right sides together. Find the center of the Back Neck Facing, match to the center back seam of Main Coat, pin. Pin bottom hem of Coat. Stitch starting at the fold of the Placket. Continue stitching around hem, up the front, along the neckline leave a 4-inch gap at the side seam. Pull the Coat through, press, slipstitch closed.
- FINISHING THE SLEEVES – Turn the Lining right side out, put Main Sleeves into the Lining. Fold the Main Coat memory hem, overlapping lining. Slipstitch the Lining to the Coat, start at the Coat Sleeve vent.
- BUTTONS – Try on the Coat, mark button placement. Stitch the buttons on. Place the buttons onto the Top Sleeve along the vent.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0NOTE – As this is a fully lined tailored coat, we do not recommend serging.
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings (pocket and button placements) and notches to the fabric using a disappearing fabric pen or chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Placket, Back Neck Facing and Center Front Facing pieces. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Welt Pockets, apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Center Front Left piece and the Side Front Bodice, where the pocket placement is. Remember to transfer the rectangle pocket marking to the interfacing.
1 . OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket1.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket, skip to step 2. If you are adding it, follow below.
1.1Fold the Single Welt Pocket in half, right sides together, matching the long edges. Pin along the short edges.
1.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.3Clip the corners and trim the seam allowances to prevent bulk.
1.4Turn the Single Welt Pocket right side. Press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
1.5Pin the folded Single Welt Pocket to the Center Front Left, right sides together, matching the long raw edge to the top of the pocket placement line. Pin.
NOTE – This is a cropped image of the full length of the Center Front Left piece.
1.6Stitch along the raw edge using a ¼ inch allowance.
1.7Lay a Single Welt Pocket Bag piece, right sides together, with the straight raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the Single Welt Pocket piece. Pin.
1.8Stitch using ¼ seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch into the ½ inch seam allowance of the Single Welt Pocket Bag piece.
1.9Lay the second Single Welt Pocket Bag on top of the Welt Pocket, right sides together, with the straight raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the first Single Welt Pocket Bag. Pin.
1.10Stitch using ¼ seam allowance. You will be stitching directly over the stitch line on the Single Welt Pocket from step 1.6.
NOTE – Do not stitch into the ½ inch seam allowance of the Single Welt Pocket Bag piece.
1.11Turn the Center Front Left piece wrong sides facing up. The two rows of stitching where you attached each of the Single Welt Pocket Bags will be ½ an inch apart. Stitch between the two rows of stitching on each short side of the pattern marking, creating a stitched rectangle.
1.12Draw a horizontal line down the center of the stitched rectangle, using tailors chalk/fabric pen.
Draw a line from each corner towards the center line, by ¼ inch.
1.13You will be cutting along the marks shown in red.
NOTE – You are only cutting along the center line between the corner markings, not through them.
Using the tips of your scissors, carefully cut into the Center Front Left piece only, along the central line and into the corners. Cut as close as you can into the corners without cutting into the stitching.
1.14Pull the Single Welt Pocket Bag pieces through the hole created in step 1.13, to the wrong side of the Center Front Left piece.
Flip the top Pocket Bag up. Press the little triangles on each side open and flat.
1.15Place the two Pocket Bags right sides together, matching all raw edges. Pin together along the raw edges, pinning the little triangle on each side.
1.16Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch Pocket Bags together, leaving 1 inch unsewn on either side, near the triangles. Reposition the Pocket Bags and stitch over the triangles.
Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
From the right side, press the Single Welt Pocket.
TIP – If you find your Single Welt Pocket does not lay flat, stitch a few stitches on each side to help secure it. Alternatively add a snap/button.
2 . Front (Main and Lining)2.1Stitch two rows of gathering stitches across the top of the left Side Front piece.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction, as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
2.2Mark the center of the left Side Front Bodice at the bottom raw edge. Mark the center of the Side Front top raw edge (with gathered stitches).
With right sides together, pin the side seams and at the center.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Side Front.
Gather all the way until the Side Front is the same length as the Side Front Bodice.
Gently spread out the gathers so that it is evenly gathered.
Pin the gathers in place.
NOTE – Check the pattern markings to make sure you are attaching the correct mirror image Side Front Bodice to the correct mirror Side Front. The princess seam shape of the Side Front Bodice will be on the same side as the seam which is attached to the Center Front (shorter side).
2.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the thread so that they come all the way through the fabric. Find the thread from the underside of the fabric and pull it out too.
Press the seam down towards the Side Front.
NOTE – This piece will now be called the Side Front piece.
2.4Place the Center Front Left and the Side Front, right sides together, matching the curved princess seam.
Match the notch on the Center Front Left piece to the gathered seam of the Side Front piece. Pin.
Pin together starting at the bottom corner until you reach the pinned gathered seam.
You want the little triangle on the Side Front, where the two pieces meet at the armscye, to be ½ inch away from the raw edge. That way, when you sew the two pieces together, they will meet up exactly. Pin at the armscye.
Pin at the apex of the princess curve. Ease together at the ½ inch seam allowance, not the raw edges, and continue pinning in place. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means when you sew, the fabric will.
2.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Check that the Single Welt Pocket Bag is out of the way before stitching.
2.6Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
Press the seam allowance open.
TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam.
NOTE – This will now be called the Front Left piece.
2.7Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 to attach the Right Side Front Bodice to the right Side Front, and repeat steps 2.4 to 2.6 to attach the right Side Front to the Center Front Right.
NOTE – This will now be called the Front Right piece.
NOTE – The Center Front Right piece does not have the OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket. However, you could add it to both sides (as shown in this image) if you would like to have one on this side.
2.8Fold the Placket in half-lengthways, right sides together. Press.
2.9You will be attaching the Placket to the Center Front Right Main.
Open the Placket. Place the side of the Placket without buttonhole markings onto the Center Front Right Main piece, right sides together. Starting at the bottom, pin together.
You want the little triangle on the Placket, where the two pieces meet at the top, to be ½ inch away from the raw edge. That way, when you sew the two pieces together, they will meet up exactly.
2.10Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam toward the Placket away from the Coat.
Fold the Placket around to the back and press everything well.
2.11Repeat steps 2.4 to 2.7 attaching the Center Front Lining (Left and Right) and the Side Front Lining (Left and Right) pieces.
2.12Place the Center Front Facing Right and Front Lining Right, right sides together.
Pin at the top and at the bottom.
Ease together at the ½ inch seam allowance, not the raw edges, and continue pinning in place. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means when you sew, the fabric will.
NOTE – The image shows part of the Center Front Facing Right with interfacing on, we recommend ironing interfacing to the entire piece.
2.13Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
Press the seam allowance open.
2.14Repeat steps 2.12 to 2.13 with the Center Front Facing Left and the Front Lining Left piece.
3 . OPTIONAL Welt Pockets3.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL welt pockets, skip to step 4. If you are adding them, follow below.
3.1Place two Welt Pocket Flap pieces, right sides together. Pin along the outer curved edges.
3.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.3Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
NOTE – Using pinking shears to trim the seam allowances cuts triangles into the fabric which cuts the fabric on the bias. Because it’s cut on the bias, the fabric won’t fray much.
3.4Turn the Welt Pocket Flap right way out. Press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch if desired.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 with the remaining two Welt Pocket Flap pieces.
3.5Place the Welt Pocket Flap onto the Front Left, matching the raw edge to the pattern marking. Pin.
3.6Stitch ⅜ inch from the raw edge, stitching one stitch off the Welt Pocket Flap on either side.
3.7Lay a Welt Pocket Bag piece, right sides together, with the straight raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the Welt Pocket Flap piece. Pin.
3.8Stitch ⅜ inch from the raw edge, stitching only the width of the Welt Pocket Flap (not the full length of the Welt Pocket Bag).
NOTE – Do not sew into the ½ inch seam allowance of the Single Welt Pocket Bag piece.
3.9Lay the other Welt Pocket Bag piece, right sides together, with the straight raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the first Welt Pocket Bag piece. Pin.
Repeat step 3.8, stitching this Welt Pocket Bag to the Welt Pocket Flap.
3.10Repeat steps 1.12 to 1.16.
TIP – Stitch around the Welt Pocket Bag a second time in the seam allowance. This will reinforce your Welt Pocket Bag stitching so it can take the weight of items being placed in here, without the stitches breaking (e.g. phone, keys, hands or a little person’s treasures!).
3.11Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.10 for the Front Right, Welt Pocket Flap and Pocket Bag pieces.
4 . Back (Main and Lining)4.1Place a Center Back and the corresponding Side Back, right sides together, matching the curved seam.
Pin together at the bottom.
Pin at the armscye. You want the little triangle on the Side Back, where the two pieces meet at the armscye, to be ½ inch away from the raw edge. That way, when you sew the two pieces together, they will meet up exactly.
Pin at the apex of the curve. Ease together at the ½ inch seam allowance, not the raw edges, and continue pinning in place. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means when you sew, the fabric will.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.3Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
Press the seam allowance open.
TIP – Use a tailor’s ham to press the curved seam.
4.4Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 with the other Center Back and the corresponding Side Back piece.
4.5Lay the two Back pieces, right sides together, at the center back seam. Pin.
4.6Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
4.7Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.6 with the Center Back Lining and the corresponding Side Back Lining pieces.
TIP – If your main and lining fabric are a similar weight, we recommend trimming off 2/8 inch off the hem of the Back Lining. Fold the Back Lining in half, measure 2/8 inch up the center back seam, trim from this point down meeting the hem at the side seam.
5 . OPTIONAL Back Mock Belt5.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL back mock belt, skip to step 6 for the OPTIONAL hanging loop or skip to step 7 if you are not adding the hanging loop.
5.1Place the two Back Mock Belt pieces, right sides together. Pin.
5.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch gap for turning.
5.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half and clip the corners to reduce bulk.
5.4Turn right sides out through the gap. Press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
5.5Topstitch around the edges, enclosing the 2-inch gap.
5.6Mark the center of the Back Mock Belt with a pin.
Place the Back Mock Belt onto the Back piece, matching the center to the marking on the Back.
Pin.
5.7You will be securing the Back Mock Belt to the Back with buttons.
Place the buttons as desired and stitch in place.
6 . OPTIONAL Hanging Loop6.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL hanging loop, skip to step 7.
6.1If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!
Fold the Hanging Loop strip in half along its length, wrong sides together, and press.
6.2Open this piece flat again and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the centerfold made in the previous step. Press.
6.3Fold in half, along the original fold line from step 6.1 then press. The raw edges should now be tucked inside.
6.4Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.
6.5Measure ½ inch on either side of the center of the Back Lining. Pin each end of the Hanging Loop. Make sure to match the raw ends so that the Hanging Loop is attached by the full seam allowance.
6.6Stitch in place just inside the ½ inch seam allowance.
7 . Back Neck Facing7.1Mark the center of the Back Neck Facing with a pin. Place the Back Neck Facing, right side down, onto the neckline of the Back Lining, matching the center to the center back seam. Pin.
NOTE – We recommend adding interfacing to your Back Neck Facing. If you have added it, the interfacing side will be facing up.
7.2Pin both ends of the Back Facing to the shoulders of the Back Linings. The ends of the Back Facing should be sticking out over the Back Lining ½ inch. Ease in the rest of the Back Facing into the Back Lining and pin.
NOTE – If you have added the OPTIONAL hanging loop this will be sandwiched between the two pieces.
7.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.4Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the neckline.
Press the seam allowance up.
8 . Attaching the Front and Back (Main and Lining)8.1Place the Back and the Front Left, right sides together, at the shoulder seam. Pin.
8.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
8.3Starting from the armscye, pin the side seams together.
The bottom of the Front Left piece will stick out over the Back piece.
8.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Be careful not to catch the Welt Pocket Flap or the Pocket Bag in the side seam.
Press the seam allowance open.
8.5Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.4 attaching the Front Right piece to the Back.
8.6Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5, attaching the Back and Front Lining pieces.
The corner of the Front Lining piece will stick out over the Back Neck Facing at the neckline.
9 . Sleeves (Main and Lining)9.1Place the Under Sleeve and Top Sleeve, right sides together, matching vent pieces. Pin.
9.2Mark one inch below the start of the vent.
9.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, from the Sleeve head to the mark made in step 9.2.
With wrong sides facing up, press the seam allowance open, including the vent which is not sewn.
9.4With wrong sides facing up, clip into the seam allowance of the Top Sleeve (the bigger one) above the vent.
You need to clip quite close to the stitching but be careful not to snip through it!
9.5Fold the Top Sleeve vent (the one you snipped) over the Under Sleeve vent.
The bigger vent piece should now be covering the smaller vent piece.
9.6Fold the raw edge of the Top Sleeve vent back on itself, matching the raw edge with the raw edge of the snipped seam allowance.
Press in place.
NOTE – This will now be called the Sleeve.
9.7Fold the bottom of the Sleeve to the wrong side ¼ inch and press. Then fold again another ¾ inch and press. This will create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s much easier to do this now, than to try and press the sleeve hem later when the sleeve is stitched into a circle.
9.8Unfold your memory hem and match the two long raw edges of the Sleeve right sides together and pin.
Stitch along the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam open as best you can and re-fold the memory hem.
Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.8 for the other Sleeve.
9.9Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.3 with a Sleeve Lining piece.
9.10Align the opposite edge of your Sleeve, right sides facing. Pin.
9.11Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam open as best you can.
9.12Repeat steps 9.9 to 9.11 for the second Sleeve Lining.
10 . Setting in Coat Sleeves (Main and Lining)10.0When setting in the Sleeve, you will notice the Sleeve head is larger than the Sleeve opening. You will be easing the Sleeve in around the seam line, not the raw edges. This is a tailored style Sleeve that gives the Sleeve a slight puffed appearance at the shoulder that ready to wear coats have.
For tips on how to set in a traditional tailored style Sleeve, watch the video here. This video is for another one of our patterns (the Kingston Coat), but the technique is the same. Then follow the steps below.
10.1Turn one Sleeve right side out and the Coat wrong side out.
With right sides together, slide the Sleeve in the Sleeve opening, matching the side seam of the Coat to the Sleeve seam.
The Under Sleeve section (the smaller of the two Sleeve pieces) should be going towards the back of the Coat. Check you have matched the correct Sleeve to the correct armhole before continuing.
Pin at the Coat side seam.
10.2Hold the pieces so that the Coat is on the bottom and the Sleeve is on the top. Pull the Coat piece taut and hold the Sleeve relaxed.
Using your thumb, smooth the Sleeve fabric so that it is flat and smooth at the seam.
The seam allowance will look rippled, that is okay. It’s the section of fabric where you’ll be stitching (½ inch in from the edge) which you want flat.
NOTE – Do not try to align the raw edges, they will not match. It is at the seam allowance (½ inch from the edge) that you need to ease the fabric, so it matches.
10.3Continue to pin around the Sleeve head, being sure to pull the Coat piece taut and ease in the Sleeve at the seam.
10.4Go slowly and sew the Sleeve into the sleeve opening using a ½ inch seam allowance.
When you sew the Sleeve, sew with the Coat on the bottom and the sleeve on top. Hold the pieces so that they are curved up so that the Coat piece stays taut and the sleeve piece is relaxed.
Make sure you are sewing right on the ½ inch seam allowance so that the sleeve fabric is flat, and you are not sewing on the rippled part.
Turn the Coat right way out and check your fabric is smooth around the armhole on both the Coat and the Sleeve.
10.5Turn the Sleeve back inside out. Stitch around the armhole again, this time inside the seam allowance ¼ inch from the edge.
The armhole is one of the most stressed areas of the garment when it is being worn (it moves so much and gets pulled, twisted and pressure put on). By stitching this second row of stitches gives it more strength.
Press seam allowance toward bodice.
10.6Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.5 for the other Sleeve.
10.7Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.5 to set each Sleeve Lining piece into the Coat Lining.
11 . OPTIONAL Shoulder Pads11.0Adding shoulder pads lifts the Sleeve and gives a beautiful shape to the shoulders. If you would like to add shoulder pads to your Coat, please follow the steps below. If you would prefer to leave them out, please skip to step 12.
11.1Fold the shoulder pad in half and add pins at the top and bottom to mark the center.
11.2With wrong sides facing out, match the center of the curved edge of the shoulder pad to the center shoulder seam of the Coat. Pin.
Line up the long straight edge of the shoulder pad with the raw edge of the sleeve seam, matching the center of the shoulder pad to the center of the curved part of the sleeve. Pin the shoulder pad to the sleeve seam at the center and each end.
11.3Tack the shoulder pad in place, where you have pinned, by hand sewing through the seam allowances only. Be careful not to tack the Coat.
Remove the pins.
Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.3 for the other shoulder pad.
12 . Finishing the Placket12.1Place the Main Coat and the Coat Lining, right sides together, matching up the raw edges of the Placket with the raw edge of the Center Front Right. Pin.
12.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
Press the seam allowance towards the Coat Lining.
12.3Turn the Coat right way out. Press the entire Placket well.
FIT CHECK – If you find you regularly have gaping at the bust when you wear Coats, you can help prevent this by adding a buttonhole in the right place. Try on your Coat now. Mark where your fullest part of your bust is and use this for a buttonhole. Now, evenly distribute your buttonholes from this point. Be sure to place a button at the very top, just under your collar. Your first buttonhole cannot be higher than 1 inch from the top of the Placket. Also, match the new button markings to your new buttonholes before attaching.
12.4Fold the Placket in half right sides together and press.
12.5Using the markings you transferred in the preparation step, stitch buttonholes through the Placket and Center Front Right pieces.
NOTE – Your buttonholes can be aligned either vertically up and down, or horizontally across the placket. You’ll notice ready-to-wear Coats are often a mix of the two techniques and it is often a matter of personal preference. I prefer my buttonholes horizontal as it means the placket cannot move up and down, but it does mean the placket can open and close slightly while buttoned. To counter this, many Coats have a horizontal buttonhole at the top with the rest vertical. Another consideration is the size of your button. If your button is wider than ½ inch, you may find your buttonhole ends up being wider than the top stitching if you do it horizontally. In this case, you would need vertical buttonholes.
TIP – Test a buttonhole on a scrap of fabric first to check it fits your button, and your placket in the direction you want it to.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.
12.6Open out the coat and understitch the seam allowance only, between the Center Front and the Placket. This is the seam allowance you pressed towards the Placket in step 2.10.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means stitching the seam allowance to the Placket approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Center Front Facing and the Placket piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the Placket inside the Coat and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the Coat.
12.7To help prevent the Placket from gaping open you will need to hand stitch each side of the Placket together, between the second and third buttonholes in three places.
Bring the needle up through the seam between the Placket and the Front Facing Lining, between the second and third buttonholes. Hold the Placket closed, making sure it is lined up correctly. Pass the needle through the first layer of one side of the Placket, pulling the thread taut. Pass the needle through the first layer of the other side of the Placket and pull the thread taut. Repeat this 4-5 times to create a secure stitch.
Pass the needle back through the Placket to the wrong side. Tie the threads off.
Repeat in between the fourth and fifth buttonholes and in between the sixth and seventh buttonholes.
NOTE – Depending on your fabric choice you may find you need to stitch the Placket in additional places to stop it from gaping.
12.8Flip the Coat Lining over the Main Coat, right sides together. Fold the Placket in half, matching the Placket seams together. Pin across the top edge.
12.9Stitch between each Placket seam, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Check the right side of the Coat to make sure you have only stitched through the Placket.
12.10With the Main Coat and Lining right sides together, match the neckline. Starting 2 inches away from the Placket seams, pin together.
12.11Starting at the neckline, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, towards the Placket.
TIP – Check the right side of the Coat to make sure everything is stitched correctly.
12.12With wrong sides facing up, clip the corner of the Placket to reduce bulk.
12.13Turn the Coat right way out. Press the neckline and Placket well.
13 . Attaching the Lining13.1Place the Coat Lining inside the Main Coat, right sides together. Find the center of the Back Neck Facing and match it to the center back seam on the Main Coat. Pin at the center and along the neckline on either side, stopping where you previously stitched the neckline in step 12.9.
Continue pinning the Center Front Facing (the side that is not stitched to the Placket) to the Center Front Lining down to the hem.
Pin along the bottom hem of the Coat.
NOTE – Check that all the Main and Lining seams are matching up.
13.2Starting at the fold of the Placket, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, around the hem, up the front and along the neckline, leaving a 4-inch gap at the side seam for turning the Coat through.
TIP – Stop stitching approximately 10 inches from the fold. Turn the Coat to the right side and check that it is sewn correctly.
Clip all corners, the bulk in the placket and the curves of the neckline.
13.3Carefully pull the Coat through the gap you left at the hem.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
Press the entire Coat well.
NOTE – This image shows the buttons already sewn on, however this is best to do at the end in step 15.
13.4Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to close the opening at the hem. This type of stitch allows you to close the opening without seeing any stitching on the inside or outside of the Coat. You will be stitching along the folded edge.
Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the Lining to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.
The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
NOTE – These images show a side seam being stitched closed, but the process is the same.
13.5Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.
13.6Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the fold and pull the thread through.
13.7Continue to stitch along the folded edge, alternating from the top to the bottom fold. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.
To end, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.
Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.
Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the pouch so that the tail is now hidden inside.
NOTE – You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.
14 . Finishing the Sleeves14.0We will now finish the Sleeve hem and vent. This can be a slightly tricky part to work out so here is a video to help. This video is for another one of our patterns (the Taylor Trench Coat), but the technique is the same.
What I would recommend is to watch the video, then go through step 14 and pin the whole Sleeve hem & vent in the order suggested. Then come back and read through again, this time slip stitching the Lining to the Main (using the same technique as in step 13.4).
There are also photos of the finished Sleeve vent towards the end of this step to help.
14.1Turn the lining right side out and feed the Main Sleeves into the Lining Sleeves. They will be wrong sides together.
TIP – With your Main Coat on the inside, Lining on the outside, run your hand along the Sleeve Lining seam to the armpit of the Coat and check that your Coat and Lining isn’t twisted.
Find the corner of the Coat Sleeve vent. Match the corner of the Sleeve Lining vent up with this and pin. Keeping the folded edges aligned and all the raw edges tucked inside, pin the Main Sleeve and Sleeve Lining together on this side of the vent only.
NOTE – The two hemlines won’t match up if you try to pin them together. The Main Coat hemline will be longer than the Coat Lining hemline. This is correct.
Fold the Main Coat memory hem (created in step 9.7) up ¼ inch and then ¾ inch. It will now overlap the lining. Pin from the same side you attached the vent, all the way around the Sleeve.
Keeping the hemlines flush, continue to pin the Main Sleeve and Sleeve Lining together at the hem.
NOTE – The Sleeve Lining and Main Sleeve will be flush at the hemline and the part of the Coat vent that is on the bottom, when the Coat is inside out. It is on top while your Coat is inside out. If your Coat was right side out, it would be underneath. The Lining will not be aligned with the other edge of the Coat vent that is on the top when the Coat is inside out.
14.2You will be using a slip stitch to attach the lining to the Coat, using the same technique as in step 13.4.
Start at the bottom of the Coat Sleeve vent and stitch up the vent. Stitch across the top of the vent and back down.
NOTE – Make sure you aren’t stitching through the outer layer of the Sleeve, but only through the Lining.
Continue around the rest of the Sleeve hem until you come back to your starting point.
You should now have stitched all the way around the hemline.
All raw edges should be tucked inside.
15 . Buttons15.1Try on your Coat and mark the corresponding button placement, adjusting to suit your fit. Stitch the buttons onto the Coat.
TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure they will line up. If needed, move any buttons to align better with your buttonholes.
TIP – When sewing flat buttons on a coat, I like to use 3 threads of embroidery floss.
Do not stitch the buttons too close to the garment but instead leave enough space for the overlap layer. To do so, you will need to build a shank out of thread.
To make the shank, sew your buttons with a toothpick over it. Once you are done sewing the button, remove the toothpick. This will automatically loosen up your button. Pull gently on the button to the end of your stitches to transfer all extra space under the button.
Wrap your threads around the loops underneath the button a few times.
Finish by sewing a few small stitches to the wrong side of the fabric at the base of the shank.
15.2Place the buttons onto the Top Sleeve along the vent opening, spacing them as desired.
With the Sleeve vent overlapping, stitch the buttons through both layers of the Sleeve vent to secure it.
NOTE – These buttons are purely decorative. If you would like them to be functional, you can insert buttonholes in the Under Sleeve vent and stitch the buttons onto the Top Sleeve vent.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Stella is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpstella.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewStella
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
The Stella is a fully lined, tailored coat. The seamless, slightly funnel shaped collar and hidden button placket give it a sophisticated and classic look. The front princess seams create a flattering shape to the body, then flows into a high low hem full ‘skirt’. The coat has slim fitting sleeves with mock buttons, which gather slightly into the shoulders. With optional welt pockets, this will become your go to coat.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Center back length (neck to hem)
Sleeve length (from neck to cuff)
Bicep
XXS
34.0
28.0
48.5
23.5
14.0
XS
36.0
30.0
48.7
23.6
14.5
S
38.0
31.0
49.0
23.7
15.3
M
40.0
33.0
49.2
24.0
16.1
L
42.0
35.0
49.4
24.2
17.0
XL
45.0
38.0
50.0
24.3
17.1
XXL
48.0
41.0
50.3
24.5
17.7
3XL
51.0
45.0
51.0
24.6
18.6
4XL
54.0
49.0
51.4
24.7
19.5
5XL
57.0
53.0
52.0
25.0
20.4
Materials and ToolsMain fabric
The exterior of the coat needs to be a medium weight woven with a bit of structure, like twill or a heavy cotton. You could also use a waterproof (such as PUL, nylon, or ripstop) or a heavy-duty cotton/poplin or gabardine drill. A light-weight fleece, wool or wool blend is also great.Lining fabric
- The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include lining, cotton, quilting cotton, satin, duchess satin. Fabrics with less drape (e.g. cotton) will be easier to handle and sew. Fabrics that are smoother will slide over shirts a bit more easily than a quilting cotton.
- Fabrics such as silk can be used for the lining but are only recommended for someone with experience using them as lining.
- You can also use a thicker woven fabric such as flannel or fleece. However, please check the finished garment measurements as the coat may be quite fitted on you. If it will be, then you would need to size up in order to be able to use a thicker fabric such as these.
Do not use a knit/stretch fabric for any part of the coat.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS
4.00
3.25
XS
4.25
3.50
S – L
4.50
3.75
XL
4.50
4.00
XXL
4.75
4.00
3XL
5.00
4.00
4XL – 5XL
5.00
4.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – XS
3.25
2.50
S
3.50
2.50
M – XL
3.50
3.00
XXL – 3XL
4.00
3.25
4XL
4.00
3.50
5XL
4.25
3.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Buttons:
- Approximately 1 inch / 25mm wide x7 for the Coat
- Approximately ½ inch / 12.5mm x8 for the Sleeves, plus 4 for the OPTIONAL Back Mock Belt
- TIP – If you don’t have somewhere local, you may find it most cost effective to search on Amazon or eBay for a good bulk button deal.
- 2x OPTIONAL Shoulder pads
- Iron-on interfacing – You will need iron on interfacing. Approximately 1-2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. A medium to lightweight interfacing is best.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, needle, scissors, tailors chalk/fabric pen, measuring tape, ruler and a point turner or blunt object such as a knitting needle or chopstick. Serger/overlocker not required.