Sunny Day Dress

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

If you are not using store bought binding, you will need to create double fold to bind the Flounce.

Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.

If you are adding any Flounces to your Bodice follow below. If you are not adding any, skip to step 2 for the OPTIONAL Tie or skip to step 3 for the OPTIONAL Straps or skip to step 4.

NOTE – If you are adding 1x Flounce you will need to cut the Bottom Single Flounce. If you are adding 2x Flounces you will need a Bottom Single and a Top Double Layer.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 1.1. Serge the binding and Press bias tape flat over seam allowance. Skip to step 1.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION

Find and mark the center of the binding and the outer edge of the Flounce.

Lay the Flounce wrong side facing up. Place the binding onto the Flounce, wrong side facing up, matching centers. Pin the end of the binding to each end of the outer curve. Then ease the binding along the curve, matching raw edges. Pin.

Stitch along the fold on the bias tape.

Press bias tape flat over seam allowance.

Turn Flounce over, right side facing up. Fold the bias over the seam and pin to enclose all raw edges.

Edge stitch along the bias. You will be stitching 1/8 inch away from the edge of the bias.

Trim any excess binding so that the binding sits flush with the Flounce edge. Press.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 if you are adding a second Flounce, then follow step 1.5.

If you are not adding a second Flounce, skip to step 2 for the OPTIONAL Tie or skip to step 3.

DOUBLE FLOUNCE: Lay the Bottom Double Flounce right side facing up. Place the Top Flounce on top, right side facing up. Match the raw inner edge. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

NOTE – You will now treat the Flounce as one piece.

If you are adding the Tie to your Sunny Day Dress, follow below. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Straps, skip to step 3. If you are not adding any of these, skip to step 4.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Tie in half lengthwise and serge down the long edge and one of the short edges. Then skip to step 2.4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION

Fold a Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together matching the long side and one short side. Pin.

Stitch along one short side and down the long side using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Trim the corners to prevent bulk.

Turn the Tie right side out.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corner.

TIPS FOR TURNING:
Method A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (use a bodkin or a large darning needle).

Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric onto itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until the tube is turned right side out.

Method B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.

Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until the tube is turned right side out.

Press well.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the second Tie.

FLOUNCE OPTION: Find and mark the center point on the right side of the Flounce.

NO FLOUNCE OPTION: Find and mark the center point on the right side of the Bodice Lining.

Take each Tie and place it at the center, matching raw edges. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin one short edge and the long raw edge. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 3.6. Repeat for the other Strap.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION

Fold a Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together matching the long side and one short side. Pin.

Stitch the long side using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Turn the Strap right side out.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corner.

TIPS FOR TURNING:
Method A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (use a bodkin or a large darning needle).

Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric onto itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until the tube is turned right side out.

Method B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.

Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until the tube is turned right side out.

Press well.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the second Strap.

Place a Strap on the Bodice Lining at the pattern markings right sides together, raw edges matching. Pin both ends.

Repeat to place a second Strap onto the other side of Bodice.

FIT CHECK – Try the Bodice on and check the placement and length of the Straps. As we are all shaped differently, this placement may not be the best placement for you. Adjust accordingly.

TIP – double check that the Straps are not twisted.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

If you are adding one or two Flounces to your Sunny Day Dress follow below. If you are not adding a Flounce, skip to step 4.3.

Lay the Bodice Lining right side facing up. Place the Flounce onto the Bodice Lining at the top edge, right sides together, matching the ends of the Flounce to the pattern markings. Pin.

NOTE – If you are adding a Double Flounce, your pieces have been basted together in step 1.6 and can be treated as one piece in this step. You will match the bottom layer Flounce to the pattern markings.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the Main Bodice onto the Bodice Lining, right sides together. Pin along the top edge.

NOTE – If you have added a Tie or any Flounces, these will be sandwiched between the Main and Lining layers. Check that they are all lying flat and out of the way.

TIP – If you are using directional fabric, ensure that you Bodice piece is the correct way up.

Stitch or serge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Understitch the seam allowance to the Lining.

If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Lining approximately 1/8 to ¼ inch from where the Lining and Bodice join. The seam allowance will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice.

Make a ½ inch memory hem along the bottom edge of the Bodice Lining.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Bodice. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Bodice Lining hem later.

Match the short raw edges, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Flip the Lining over, so the Bodice pieces are wrong sides together. Press.

Stitch along the top edge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. This will create the casing for the elastic. Leave a 1 ½ inch opening at the back of the casing to insert the elastic.

NOTE – Double check to make sure you have moved the Flounces out of the way and are only stitching the casing on the Bodice.

Set this piece aside for now.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Back and Front Skirt pieces right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seams to the back. Skip to step 6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of your dress. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.

With the wrong sides together (right sides out), place the Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces together. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Turn right side out and press the seam as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.7 to attach the other side seam of the Back Skirt and Front Skirt pieces.

Mark the center front and center back points on the bottom of the Bodice and top edge of the Skirt.

Align the front and back center points and pin the bottom edge of the Bodice to the top edge of the Skirt, right sides together.

NOTE – Double check to make sure you have moved the Bodice Lining out of the way and are only stitching the Main Bodice to the Skirt.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Double check to make sure you have moved the Flounces out of the way and are only stitching the Bodice to the Skirt.

Press the seam allowance up towards the Bodice.

Keep the Bodice open and thread the top elastic through the top casing.

TIP – Use a safety pin or bodkin to thread the elastic through.

TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before threading it through.

Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the casing.

Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch on each side (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch). Pin.

Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic.

Pull the elastic inside the casing. With the wrong sides of the Bodice together, topstitch the opening closed.

Fold the Bodice Lining down so it covers the seam allowance. Pin.

Topstitch the Bodice Lining using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, leaving approximately a 1-inch gap to insert the elastic.

Stitch along the bottom edge of Bodice, ⅝ inch away from the seam allowance. This will create the casing for the bottom elastic.

Insert the elastic through the opening left in step 6.9 using the underbust elastic. Pull it through the casing using a safety pin or bodkin.

Repeat steps 6.6 to 6.7 along the bottom edge of the Bodice using the underbust elastic.

If you are not doing the OPTIONAL Frill, skip to step 8.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place two Frill pieces right sides together, matching a short side. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to stitch the third Frill piece to both short sides of this Frill piece, creating a circle. Follow steps 7.3 to 7.5. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 8.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION

Place two Frill pieces wrong sides together, matching a short side. Pin.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 to stitch together using a French seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

For sizes 1 to 10 and 6C to 9C: Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 to stitch the second Frill side, creating a circle.

For sizes 10C to 15C: Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 to stitch the third Frill piece to both short sides of this Frill piece, creating a circle.

You are going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches on the Frill pieces.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Take the Frill and stitch the first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all the leftover bobbin threads!

Find and mark the quarter points of the gathered edge of the Frill, and the hem edge of the dress.

Place the Frill onto the Skirt, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.

Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the stitches.

Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers, until the Frill is gathered evenly between the quarter points. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Remove the gathering stitches.

You will be binding this seam. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.

Place the binding onto the Frill, right sides together, matching raw edges. Fold the short straight edge of the binding ¼ to the wrong side. Pin.

Pin the binding all the way along the seam line of the Frill, overlapping the binding approximately ½ inch.

Trim the excess bias tape.

Stitch along the first fold. Your stitching should be directly on top of the Frill seam.

Fold the binding over the seam and pin to enclose all raw edges.

Edge stitch along the bias, making sure not to catch the dress under your stitches. Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the ruffle.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem without removing any seam allowance. Fold it ½ to the wrong side. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION

Fold the hem of the dress or the OPTIONAL Frill if added, ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Fold another ¼ inch. Press.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Your Sunny Day Dress is finished!