T-Shirt Dress

T-shirt Dress

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The t-shirt dress is a quick and easy sew with two different styles to choose from; flared or straight. There are two necklines; round or v-neck, three sleeve lengths; short, three-quarter and long, and six lengths; crop, top, mid-thigh, knee, mid-calf and maxi. The straight mid-calf and maxi have a side slit. With so many options you can sew multiple looks from just one pattern.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

Both styles are fitted at the bust. Crop top length is intended to fit above the natural waist and fall at the first rib. The straight dress will skim over the hips, flowing straight down to the hem. The flared dress will flow over the hips to the hem.

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking a size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms, and upper back are likely to fit well. Then, grade out or into the correct waist size.
• Grading – You may notice on some pattern pieces that there is a slight shape difference. This is to ensure that, with such a wide size range, the pattern can still offer a great fit. Just measure and print the size/s you require. You’ll still need to add any personal adjustments you know suit your body best (such as a full bust adjustment or bicep adjustment), and for this we highly recommend making a muslin.
• Height adjustment – This dress is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, use this tutorial as a guide for making height adjustments to your bodice and sleeve.
• Bust adjustment – This dress is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately a ready-to-wear B cup). If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow our free tutorial to make this adjustment to your pattern pieces.
  • The Women’s Regular pattern is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow our free tutorial to make this adjustment to your pattern pieces.
  • The Women’s Curvy pattern is designed for a sewing E cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear D cup). If your bust size is above a F cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow our free tutorial to make this adjustment to your pattern pieces.
• Bicep adjustment – Check your measurement against the finished garment measurement above. If your measurement is larger, follow our free tutorial to adjust your sleeve.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin first. This is how I would recommend you muslin this dress:
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out all pieces. Label each with tailors chalk or a fabric pen.
  • Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue on to sewing your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces…. It’s like having a tailor-made garment so they’re a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Fabric – Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a light or medium weight fabric such as jersey, silk satin with elastane, silk jersey with elastane, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal, cotton lycra, ponte, poly rayon spandex etc.

Your fabric will need to have at least 20 – 30 % stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.4 – 2.6 inches.

The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your tee maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size. 

A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2-way stretch (only stretches in one direction). 

Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) below:

	Round neck OPTION (Cut 1)
	Width	Length
1	1.5	20.0
2	1.5	20.5
3	1.5	21.0
4	1.5	21.2
5	1.5	21.6
6	1.5	22.0
7	1.5	22.3
8	1.5	23.0
9	1.5	23.2
10	1.5	23.5

	Round neck OPTION (Cut 1)
	Width	Length
6C	1.5	23.1
7C	1.5	23.5
8C	1.5	24.0
9C	1.5	24.3
10C	1.5	24.5
11C	1.5	25.1
12C	1.5	25.7
13C	1.5	26.3
14C	1.5	27.0
15C	1.5	27.5

Cutting Checklist: 
Choose the style and lengths, then cut the pieces listed here: 

• Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Back – Sizes 1 to 10: Fabric cut 1 on fold
  • Sizes 6C to 15C: Fabric cut 2 (x1 mirror image pair)
• Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold
• Neckband – Fabric cut 1 (Round or V-neck)

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for topstitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when topstitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Topstitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. SHOULDERS – Women’s Curvy: Lay Back pieces right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press. Women’s and Women’s Curvy: Right sides together, stitch Front to Back at shoulders. Press the seam to the Back.
2. SLEEVES – Mark the midpoint of the Sleeve. Aligning the Sleeve midpoint with the shoulder seam, pin Sleeve to bodice, right sides together. Stitch. Press seam toward the Sleeve. Repeat for second Sleeve.
3. ROUND NECK OPTION – Wrong sides together, press the Neckband in half lengthwise. Align the short raw edges and stitch. Press seam open. Refold memory press. Quarter the Neckband and the neckline of the dress. Match quarter points. Stitch, stretching the Neckband to match the dress. Press seam down toward the bodice. OPTIONAL Topstitch.
4. V-NECK OPTION – Fold Neckband in half lengthwise right sides together. Fold again widthwise, matching short edges. Pin all four layers together. Stitch. Open up and fold along seamline, wrong sides together. Press seam. Starting at the V, baste 2 inches up one side, then 2 inches up the other side. Find and mark center of back neckline on bodice and Neckband. Baste 2 inches up one side, then 2 inches up the other side. Snip into the v. Place Neckband onto neck of bodice, right sides together, matching center backs and center front to the V. Pin, stretching Neckband slightly to fit. Start at center back to center front, stitch. Turn bodice and stitch from center front to center back on other side. Press seam. OPTIONAL Topstitch.
5. SIDE SEAMS – Align Front to Back at the side seam from the hem of the Sleeve all the way down to the bottom hem. Stitch. Repeat for second side seam. NOTE – For mid-calf and maxi length straight options, stitch up to side slit pattern markings.
6. SLEEVE HEM – Finish raw edges of Sleeve. Fold Sleeve hem ½ inch to wrong side. Topstitch. Repeat for other Sleeve.
7. HEM – STRAIGHT HEM – Finish raw edge. Fold hem ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch. SIDE SLIT – Finish raw edge on both Front and Back, stitching up and down the side slits. Fold hem ½ inch to right side at one side of side slit. Stitch. Turn hem right side out. Press. Repeat at the other side of the slit. With the dress right sides together, measure 1 ½ inches up from the top of the side slit. Stitch 2 inches down from the pin to the top. Lay dress flat, wrong side facing up. Fold the sides of the slits ⅜ inch to the wrong side. Press. Stitch from hem up to end of side split, squaring off at the top and down the other side. Repeat for other side slit. Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch.

Congratulations, your T-shirt Dress is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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