Table Tent

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk. 

Interfacing

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Ties, apply interfacing to the wrong side of each Tie piece, using the manufacturer’s instructions. 

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Fridge, apply interfacing to the wrong side of each of the Fridge Door, Fridge Door Lining, Freezer Door and Freezer Door Lining pieces.

If you are doing any or all of the decorations, follow the steps in this section. If you are not decorating your tent, skip to section B.

The instructions show how to assemble the tent decorations as per the cover photo. There are pattern placement markings on the Wall pattern pieces. However, once you have prepared the Tent Wall pattern pieces for your table size, you can mix and match any of the decorations to put them on any of the exterior or interior walls as desired. 

TIP – If you plan to move the decorations around, check that they will fit where you want them. A good way to do this is to lay out your Tent Wall pieces, then place the paper pattern piece decorations and details onto them. You can move them about and decide what you want where, and what fabrics/colors you prefer where.

NOTE – If you are placing the decorations as desired and not as per the pattern markings, remember that each Wall has a ½ inch seam allowance. You will need to add your decorations leaving adequate seam allowance.

If you are using fusible webbing, follow below.  If you are using fabric glue, apply as per the manufacturer’s instructions and skip to step 1. If you are only stitching, skip to step 1.

Trace the pattern pieces for all the decorations you are using onto the backing of your iron-on interfacing. Make sure to write what each piece is on the paper side of the interfacing.

NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored). 

Cut roughly around the fusible webbing for each pattern piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the fusible webbing has been attached to the fabric.

Group the fusible webbing pieces into colors (e.g. put all of the oranges together, all of the greens together, and so on).

Keeping pieces grouped by color, apply the fusible webbing to your fabric pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions. 

TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using fusible webbing.

Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.

TIP – Group the pieces by Wall piece so that all the decorations for each Sides/Front/Back and Interior/Exterior pieces are together.

From here the instructions for the rest of this section are grouped by Tent Wall piece. Mix and match to create the look you want, adding any additional decorations or creativity you want to!

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces onto the Walls, especially as small fingers play and pull at them. 

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

TIP – You will find the instructions run through all of the decorations & details pictured on the cover photo for that section of the Tent. If you are doing only some of the decorations & details, look for the bold headings, then skip to the headings for the bits you are doing only. 

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces, but not the Butterfly Wings A or B, or the Letterbox Flap.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Roof Trim – Draw ½ inch seam allowance stitch lines onto the wrong side of the Roof Trim Lining piece using either a disappearing fabric marker or tailors chalk.

TIP – If you are confident with stitching scallops, you might not need to transfer the full stitch lines, but instead just the points at which you turn the needle.

Place the Main Roof Trim and Lining right sides together.

Place the Roof Trim onto your sewing machine with the Lining facing upwards. Stitch along the marked ½ inch seam allowance. 

When you get to the peak of the curve (where the curve gets to a point), place the needle all the way down, lift your presser foot, turn the fabric so the next curve is now lined up in front of you, put the presser foot down again and continue to sew. 

NOTE – If sewing a round table, stitch down a short edge, along the marked ½ inch seam allowance and up the second short edge. 

At the top of each point where the curves meet, snip into the seam allowance. Go close to but not touching the seamline (or you will make a hole).

If you have pinking shears, trim the seam allowance to approximately 1/3 its length.

If you do not have pinking shears, trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Then create notches by snipping small triangles into the seam allowance at approximately every 1 inch. The triangles will help reduce bulk. The point should get close to the seam line but not touch it (aim for approximately ⅛ inch away). 

Turn the Roof Trim right sides out. They will still look very messy. This is ok.

Get a blunt object such as a knitting needle or point turner and push the seam allowance all the way out. The seam line should run exactly along the edge. Make sure there are no folds of fabric.

Press.

OPTIONAL – If you are likely to need to wash your Tent in future, topstitch approximately ⅛ inch away from the seam edge, to keep the curves of the scallop neat and in place.

Lay the Exterior Front Wall right side up. Place the Roof Trim on top right side up, matching raw edges. Pin.

NOTE – The raw edges should meet at the sides as well. If they do not, check the measurements of the Wall piece, and make sure you have the correct Roof Trim piece, then center the Roof Trim over the Wall piece horizontally.

Baste the top long edge and two short edges using approximately a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Front Door Window – Lay the Window Frame piece wrong side facing up. Mark the ½ inch seamlines (shown in blue) around each of the panes and the outer edge of the Window Frame.

Snip diagonally in from each corner of the pane to the corner of the seamline.

Fold each side of the inside of the Window Frame along the seam lines towards the wrong side of the fabric and press.

Fold the outside seam allowances to the wrong side of the Window Frame on all four sides. Press.

At the corners, press the fold that ends up on top in a diagonal to hide the raw edges all underneath the Window Frame.

Turn the Window Frame piece wrong side facing up. 

Center the Window Pane piece on top of the Window Frame, hiding the edges of the Window Pane in the folded seam allowance.

Pin in place. 

TIP – Make sure to only place pins where the Window Frame will cover the Window Pane. If you pin on the Window Pane where it won’t be covered, you may leave a visible hole.

Topstitch around the edge of each inside pane of the Window Frame, approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edge.

TIP – Test this on a scrap of fabric first. Some plastics will slip on your machine. If it does, use a presser foot with a rubber or silicone base to help grab it, or a walking foot. Some people find it easier to stitch with the plastic on top, some underneath. Since it is clear you can see through it so do whichever is easiest on your machine.

Lay the Door right side facing up. Place the Window Frame onto the Door right side facing up. Pin.

Topstitch in place using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Door over so it is wrong side up. 

Carefully pull the Door fabric away from the Window Frame.

Snip into the Door fabric behind the window, making sure the Window Frame and Window Pane are away from the Door fabric.

Using this hole as a starting point and being careful to keep the Window Frame & Window Pane away from the Door, snip the Door fabric away from the Window Frame, all the way around the Window Frame, approximately ½ inch from your stitch lines (from step 1.18) holding the Window Frame in place.

Door Handle – Iron/glue/place the Door Handle onto the right side of the Door. Topstitch the Door Handle in place using a ⅛ seam allowance.

NOTE – Take care not to get the iron near the plastic of your Window Pane (it can melt!).

Interior Door – Repeat steps 1.11 to 1.19 to add the Door Window Frame to the Interior Door.

Once you’ve pinned the Door Window Frame in place, place the two Doors right sides together. Check that the Window Frames are lined up in exactly the same spot on the Interior and Exterior Doors. Then continue to sew it on and snip the Interior Door fabric away under the Window Frame.

NOTE – There is no Window Pane piece for the Interior Door. Once you fold the fabric under, you will not be sewing the inside of the Window Frame yet.

Repeat step 1.20 to attach the Door Handle to the Interior Door.

Door Assembly – Place the Interior and Exterior Doors right sides together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Stitch down one long side, along the bottom of the Door, then up the other long side. Leave the top short side open.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn the Door right side out, pushing the corners out, and press.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners

Topstitch along the outside edges using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Place the Door with the Exterior side up. Stitch over your lines from step 1.18 (the rectangles inside the Window Frame). 

Make sure it catches the edge of the Window Frame from the Interior side of the door. This should now hide all raw edges.

Door Straps – Fold a Door Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch the long edge and one short edge, using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leaving the other short edge open for turning.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn right side out, pushing the corners out, and press.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners

Topstitch both long edges and the short edge using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – The short edge that was not stitched above should still be open.

Repeat steps 1.28 to 1.32 to stitch the remaining three Door Straps.

Cut the hook and loop tape 3 inches long. Place the hook tape (scratchy side) onto a Door Strap at the stitched short edge, centering it. Pin.

Topstitch around the piece using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Repeat step 1.34 for a second Door Strap.

Repeat steps 1.34 to 1.35 to attach the loop tape (furry side) to the other two Door Straps.

Place the Door Straps onto the Door 2.5 inches in from the side, matching raw edges, with the hook and loop tape facing down.

Place the Door Straps with the loop tape (furry) onto the Interior Door with the tape facing right side up. 

Place the Door Straps with the hook tape (scratchy) onto the Exterior Door with the tape facing onto the Door.

Roll the Door up and check that the Straps are long enough to wrap around the Door, and that the hook & loop tape is facing the right direction to do the Straps up.

Baste all Straps using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Pin the loose ends of each Door Strap to the Door so they don’t flap around in the next steps.

Attach Door – Mark a ½ inch inside the Door placement marking (shown with pins) on the Exterior Front Wall.

Cut along the ½ inch inside line to remove the hole the Door will fill.

Place the Door on top, with the Exterior Door facing up.

Flip the Door upwards. 

NOTE – Check that the Door Straps are going with the direction of the Door (they shouldn’t be folded back).

Pin the top raw edge of the Door to the Exterior Wall top raw edge. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Flip the Door back down and unpin the Door Straps.

Door Gable – Iron/glue/place the Door Gable Letters onto the right side of the Main Door Gable. 

Stitch each of the Door Gable Letters.

Place the Main and Lining Door Gable pieces right sides together. Pin.

Stitch all the way around using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Do not leave any gaps.

Either use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance, or trim with regular scissors then make notches into the curved sections.

Pull the Main and Lining away from each other and make a small snip on the Lining side. Carefully extend this to approximately a 1-2 inch gap.

Turn right sides out through this gap and press, making sure the curves are all the way out.

Place the Door Gable right side up onto the Exterior Front Wall, using the pattern markings. Pin

Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Windows – Repeat steps 1.11 to 1.19 to attach the Window Frames and Window Panes to the Exterior Front Wall piece. 

Trim the Wall fabric out from behind the Window Frame in the same way we did for the Door Window Frame.

Letterbox – Iron/glue/place the Letterbox Numbers onto the right side of the Letterbox Flap fabric.

Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance. 

All the numbers are included so you can make any numbered letterbox you like (your own, your dream home, imaginary!).

NOTE – If you are using fusible webbing, the Letterbox Flap should still have its paper backing on. Leave this backing on until after you have ironed the Letterbox Numbers. That way you can iron/press it without it melting the Flap glue too. Then remove the paper backing once the Flap has cooled, and stitch to secure. 

TIP – It is easiest to remove the paper backing before you stitch the details on (not after). Just make sure to leave it on while you are pressing the numbers on, so you don’t melt it onto your ironing board.

Iron/glue/place the Letterbox Flap onto the spare fabric. Pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Then cut around it so it is double sided.

If you want a moveable flag, follow below. If you are adding a fixed flag, skip to step 1.56.

Iron/glue/place the Letterbox Flag onto the spare fabric. Stitch together. Then cut around so it is double sided.

Place one Letterbox Catch onto the top center of the right side of the Letterbox Flap.

Stitch a small piece of hook tape (scratchy) to the back of one Letterbox Catch piece.

Place the other Letterbox Catch onto the back of the Letterbox flap so the hook tape is facing outwards. 

Iron/glue/place the Letterbox Catches together. Stitch together.

Place the Letterbox Post onto the Exterior Front Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

TIP – Place the grass temporarily over the Letterbox Post while you are deciding where it will go to check you have covered the base of the post. 

Place the Letterbox onto the Exterior Front Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Letterbox Flap onto the Letterbox. Stitch along the bottom edge approximately ¼ inch from the edge to secure.

Stitch a small piece of loop tape (fluffy) to the Letterbox where the Letterbox Catch is. 

If you are having a fixed flag, iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

If you are having a moveable flag, we will use a button so the Flag can rotate. Either use your favorite method to do this or follow below. 

Secure your thread to the wrong side of the Exterior Wall where you want the Flag to go on the Letterbox. 

Stitch up and through the Flag, then through the button.  Stitch down through the button, through the Flag and through to the wrong side of the Exterior Wall again. Pull the thread so it’s not loose but not tight.

Repeat to go through the same holes a second time.

Bring your thread out through the fabric under the Flag. Wrap your thread around the thread from step 1.47 several times. Bring your thread out through the fabric above the Flag but under the button. Wrap your thread around the thread from step 1.47 several times. 

Knot and tie off the thread.

Dandelions – Place the Dandelion Stems onto the Exterior Front Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

TIP – Place the Grass temporarily onto the Wall piece while you are deciding where the Dandelion Stems will go to help you in your decision making and check you have covered the base of the Stems. 

Use your favorite hand sewing, machine sewing or embroidery technique to sew on the Dandelion Seeds. Here I have hand sewn using lots of small straight stitches.

To do it this way, thread a needle. Tie the ends of the thread together.

Then insert the needle through the fabric, coming back down a short distance away.

Slip the needle through the knotted thread so it secures it.

Then continue bringing the needle up and down short distances away, to make short straight stitches.

To have the stitches connect, go back through the gaps, filling them with more short stitches.

Grass – Place the Grass Left onto the left side of the Exterior Front Wall and Grass Right onto the right side, right sides facing up. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Potted Plant – We will use the same technique as the Door Gable (and for most other Decorations as we go through the sew).

Iron/glue/place and then stitch each of the Heart Flowers onto the right side of the Plant fabric.

Place the Plant fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch all the way around using a ½ inch seam allowance, not leaving any gaps.

Trim and notch with regular scissors, or trim with pinking shears. Make sure to snip into each point between curves.

Pull the fabric and lining away from each other and make a small snip on the lining side. Carefully extend this to approximately a 1-2 inch gap.

Turn right sides out through this gap and press, making sure the curves are all the way out.

Repeat steps 1.66 to 1.67 to assemble the Pot.

Place the Pot right sides onto the Exterior Front Wall and stitch in place.

Place the Plant on top of the Pot, overlapping the top slightly. Stitch in place.

Butterflies – Iron/glue/place the Butterfly Wing Decorations A onto the Butterfly Wing A piece. 

Peel the paper backing off the Butterfly Wing A then stitch the decorations on.

Place the Butterfly Wings A onto the Exterior Front Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Butterfly Body A onto the Butterfly. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the facial features and antennae using your favorite method. Here I have hand stitched using regular short straight stitches.

Repeat steps 1.71 to 1.74 for Butterfly B.

Your Exterior Front is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Window – Repeat steps 1.11 to 1.19 to finish and attach the Window Pane to the Window Frame, and the Window Frame to the Exterior Back Wall piece.

NOTE – The Roof Trim will overlap the Window Frame. If you do not want the stitching visible through the Window Pane, do step 2.3 first, then 2.2 after, making sure to trim away the Roof Trim too.

Roof Trim – Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.10 to finish and attach the Roof Trim to the top of the Exterior Back Wall piece.

Potted Plant – Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish and attach the Plant Pot and Plant to the Exterior Back Wall piece.

Mouse – Place the Mouse onto the Exterior Back Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Mouse as marked on the pattern piece.

TIP – Place the Drain Pipe and Drain on to the Wall first to decide where you would like the Mouse. That way you can have the tail going up into the Drain Pipe if you wish.

Drain Pipe – Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to sew and attach the Drain Pipe.

Drain – Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to sew and attach the Drain.

Spider – Place the Spider onto the Exterior Back Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the Spider Web and features of the Spider, as marked on the pattern piece.

Dog – Place the Dog Body onto the Exterior Back Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Dog Muzzle onto the Dog. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Dog Nose and Dog Eyes onto the Dog. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Dog as marked on the pattern piece.

Your Exterior Back is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Window – Repeat steps 1.11 to 1.19 to finish and attach the Window Pane to the Window Frame, and the Window Frame to the Exterior Side Wall piece.

Roof Trim – Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.10 to finish and attach the Roof Trim to the top of the Exterior Side Wall piece.

Window Box – Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish and attach the Window Box to the Exterior Side Wall piece. 

Make sure to place it as per the markings on the Wall piece so that there is a gap between the Window Box and the Window Frame.

Window Box Greenery – Place the Window Box Greenery onto the Exterior Side Wall, overlapping the Window Frame and Window Box. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Flowers & Tulips – Place the Flowers & Tulips onto the Window Box Greenery. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the flower stems and petals onto the Wall as marked on the pattern piece.

Sunflowers – Place the Sunflower Stems onto the Wall piece. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

TIP – Place the Grass temporarily onto the Wall piece while you are deciding where the Sunflower Stems will go to help you in your decision making and check you have covered the base of the Stems. 

Place the Sunflower Layer 1 pieces onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Sunflower Layer 2 pieces onto the Sunflower Layer 1. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Sunflower Center pieces onto the Sunflower Layer 2. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Sunflower Leaves onto the Wall next to the Stems. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew around each Sunflower Layer and any details you wish such as the line on the Leaves.

Grass – Place the Grass onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Snail – Place the Snail Body onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Snail Shell onto the Snail Body. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew any details you wish such as the swirl on the Snail Shell and the Snail Face.

Hedgehog – Place the Hedgehog Face and Hedgehog Feet onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

TIP – Place the Hedgehog Body temporarily onto the Wall piece while you are deciding where the Hedgehog Face & Feet will go to help you in your decision making and check you have covered the edges of these pieces. 

Place the Hedgehog Body onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Hedgehog as marked on the pattern piece.

Bee – Place the Bee Wings onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Bee Body onto the Bee Wings. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Bee Stripes onto the Bee Body. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Bee and the Bee’s Trail onto the wall as marked on the pattern piece.

Your Exterior Side / Window Box is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Roof Trim – Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.10 to finish and attach the Roof Trim to the top of the Exterior Back Wall piece.

Grass – Place the Grass Left and Grass Right onto each side of the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Car – Place the Car Steering Wheel onto the Car Windscreen. Position it ½ inch above the raw edge. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Car Windscreen fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch all the way around using a ½ inch seam allowance, not leaving any gaps.

Trim and notch with regular scissors, or trim with pinking shears. Pull the fabric and lining away from each other and make a cut on the lining side. Turn right sides out through this gap and press, making sure the curves are all the way out.

Place the Car Windscreen onto the Car Body fabric using the pattern markings. Stitch in place.

Place the Car Badge, Grill, Indicators and Headlights onto the Car Body. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. 

Hand or machine sew the features as marked on the pattern piece.

Repeat step 4.5 to stitch the Car Body fabric and lining right sides together, trim and turn through.

Place the Car Body onto the right side of the Garage Interior. Pin in place but do not stitch yet.

Place the Car Wheels onto the Garage Interior, positioning just under the edge of where the Car Bumper will go. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

TIP – Temporarily place the Car Bumper on so you can check the positioning.

Place the Car Wing Mirrors onto the Garage Interior, positioning just under the edge of the Car Body. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Stitch the Car Body in place.

Place the Car Bumper fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch all the way around using a ½ inch seam allowance, not leaving any gaps.

Trim and notch with regular scissors, or trim with pinking shears. Pull the fabric and lining away from each other and make a cut on the lining side. Turn right sides out through this gap and press, making sure the curves are all the way out.

Place the Car Bumper onto Wall using the pattern markings. Stitch in place.

Then place Bumper Brackets onto the Car Bumper. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Garage Interior – Place the Garage Interior fabric and lining right sides together. Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish and turn through.

Put the Garage Interior aside for a moment.

Garage Door – Add any stitch lines you wish onto the Garage Door fabric to make it look like a garage door. Make sure to allow for the ½ inch seam allowance around all four sides.

Place the Garage Door fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch along the bottom and both side edges only, using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Leave the top edge open.

Clip the corners close to the seam allowance, turn through and press.

Topstitch using ⅛ inch from the folded edges.

Repeat steps 1.28 to 1.38 to sew and attach Door Straps to the top of the Garage Door.

Place the Garage Interior right sides up onto the Side Wall piece.

Place the Garage Door right sides up onto the Garage Interior piece.

Flip the Garage Door upwards.

Slip the Garage Door ½ inch underneath the top of the Garage Interior. The raw edges should now be hidden.

Pin all pieces in place.

Stitch along the top edge of the Garage Interior to hold the Garage Door in place. 

NOTE – Make sure the Door Straps are flipped upwards out of the way with the Garage Door before sewing. 

Topstitch down both vertical sides and along the bottom of the Garage Interior using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Flip the Garage Door down. Leave the pair of Door Straps on top of the Garage Door flipped up and out of the way.

Stitch across the top of the Garage Door using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Do not stitch the Door Straps down.

You will be sewing through the Garage Interior plus the set of Door Straps, and the Garage Door. 

TIP – Go slowly here and use an appropriate needle to avoid it snapping, as you are stitching through lots of layers.

Roll the Garage Door up and secure it with the Door Straps to keep it out of the way.

Caterpillar – Place each of the Caterpillar Body pieces onto the Wall one at a time, overlapping the previous one slightly. Iron/glue/place each one and then stitch to secure. 

Place the Caterpillar Head onto the end of the Caterpillar Body. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Caterpillar as marked on the pattern piece.

Exterior Lights – For both Exterior Light Bulbs, place onto the Side Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Then place the long three Exterior Light Struts onto each of the Exterior Light Bulbs. These are the ones that go vertically on the Bulb. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place two of the Exterior Light Struts onto the top and bottom of each of the Exterior Light Bulbs. These are the ones that go horizontally along the top and bottom of the Bulbs and will match the length correctly. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Exterior Light Top pieces and Exterior Light Bottom pieces onto each of the Exterior Light Bulbs. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Lastly place the remaining two Exterior Light Struts Pieces onto each of the Exterior Light Top pieces. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Ladybug – Place the Ladybug Body onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Ladybug Head onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Either place the Ladybug Spots onto the Ladybug Body, and iron/glue/place, then stitch to secure.

Or alternatively, hand or machine sew the spots onto the Ladybug. Here I have hand sewn French knots. 

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Ladybug as marked on the pattern piece.

Your Exterior Side / Garage is finished!

NOTE – There will be a space for the Front Door in the middle of this Front side of the Tent, but we will not cut it in this step. Leave this space and we will cut the Door in a later step.

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Moulding – If you are using ribbon for your Moulding, place the ribbon onto the Wall as desired and stitch in place.

If you are using the pattern piece for the Moulding, place the Moulding fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch along the bottom edge only.

Trim the seam allowance to neaten. Turn right sides out and press.

Place the Moulding right sides up onto the Wall piece and stitch in place.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Moulding as marked on the pattern piece.

Windows – For both Window Frames, follow steps 1.11 to 1.19 to prepare the Window Frames. 

NOTE – There is no Window Pane for the Interior as this Window Frame will attach to the back of the Window Frame from the Exterior Front Wall.

For both Window Frames, repeat steps 1.11 to 1.19 then 1.21 to attach the Window Frame to the Wall.

Once you’ve pinned the Window Frames in place, place the Exterior Front Wall right sides together with this Interior Front Wall and check to make sure you’ve lined the Window Frames up in exactly the same spot on the Interior Wall as on the Exterior Wall. Then continue to sew them on and snip the Interior Wall fabric away under the Window Frames.

Curtains – Fold the raw edges on both long sides of a Curtain piece ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Fold the side another ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Topstitch all the way down each long side close to the folded edge.

Repeat steps 5.5 to 5.7 for the remaining three Curtain pieces.

Fold the raw edges of the bottom hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.  

Then fold ½ inch and press. 

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat steps 5.5 to 5.8 for the remaining three Curtain pieces.

Lay the Wall right side facing up. Place a set of Curtains right side facing up on top of one of the Windows, matching the top raw edges with the top of the Window Frame. Pin.

Stitch in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – These curtains are fixed. They do not slide open but are instead held open by the Curtain Ties. In testing we found to offer a moveable curtain, it meant the Wall fabric was getting pulled and twisted regularly. This can cause some damage if children are not careful. Should you wish to turn over the top edge of the curtains and thread it through a cord so it can be ‘opened’ and ‘closed’ by the person inside the tent, make sure to add a heavy weight interfacing to the rear of the Wall and use fabric thick enough to withstand this.

Stitch the top of each of the Curtains using a ½ inch seam allowance for extra security.

Repeat steps 5.9 to 5.10 to attach a second set of Curtains onto the other Window Frame.

Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to assemble both Curtain Pelmets. 

Place the Curtain Pelmet on top of the Curtains, positioning it approximately 1 inch above the Window Frame and centered horizontally over the Window. Pin.

NOTE – The Window Frame should still be visible if you lift the Curtain up. This will allow us to stitch the Exterior and Interior Window Frames together later on.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from all four edges.

We will use a similar method to make and attach the Curtain Ties as we did with the Garage Door Straps. 

Fold a Curtain Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch along all three raw edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a gap of approximately 2 inches for turning in the middle of the long edge.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk.

Then turn through and press. 

Top stitch all the way around using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, closing the gap left above.

Repeat steps 5.13 to 5.15 for the remaining three Curtain Ties.

Cut four pieces of hook and loop tape 3 inches long.

For all four Curtain Ties, attach and stitch the hook tape to one end.

Then flip it over and pin the loop tape to the other end. Do not stitch it yet.

Curl the Curtain Tie into a circle to check the hook & loop tape connects. One piece should be on the top and one on the bottom, so it connects when curled into a circle.

Once you are happy with the placement, stitch the loop tape in place.

Fold a Curtain Tie in half along its length and mark the center point with a pin or clip.

For each of the Curtain Ties, pin them onto the side of the Window Frame.

The Ties should lay horizontally and when curled, the hook & loop tape should connect.

The pin marking the center should be centered horizontally on the Window Frame.

The bottom edge of the Tie should align with the top edge of the center horizontal part of the Window Frame.

Stitch the Curtain Ties in place by stitching a rectangle that is the height of the Curtain Tie and approximately 1 inch wide.

Bed – Place both Bed Bases onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

TIP – Place the whole Bed onto the Wall temporarily to check placement.

Place both Bed Headboards and Bed Footboards at either end of the Bed Base. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place both Bed Mattresses onto the Bed. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place both Bed Blankets onto the Bed Mattresses. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place both Bed Throws onto the Bed Blankets. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place both Bed Pillows onto the Bed Mattresses. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Teddy – Place the Teddy onto the Wall, overlapping the Bed Blanket. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Teddy Tummy and Teddy Face onto the Teddy. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Teddy Nose onto the Teddy Face. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Teddy as marked on the pattern piece.

Unicorn – Place the Unicorn Pillow onto the Bed Blanket, overlapping it slightly. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. 

To make the Mane, you can either curl ribbon around and stitch it as you prefer. Or you can gather and stitch ribbon on. 

Do whichever you prefer now.

TIP – If you have not gathered before, set your machine to a gathering stitch (the longest loosest stitch length) and cut your ribbon approximately 1.5x the length of how long you want the finished ribbon. Sew one line of gathering stitches along the bottom edge of your ribbon. Leave the ends of the thread long. Pull the bobbin thread on one end to gather the ribbon to the length you want. Spread the gathers out evenly with your fingers. Stitch in place on the Unicorn. Then pull the bobbin thread from the gathering stitch out entirely so the gathering thread falls away.

Place the Unicorn Ear onto the Unicorn. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Unicorn as marked on the pattern piece.

Place the Unicorn Horn onto the Unicorn. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Unicorn Nose onto the Unicorn. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Unicorn.

Your Interior Front / Bedroom is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces except the 1x Peas, 1x Plastic Container Tub, 1x Ice Tray, Milk, 1x Egg Box and the Sauce Tube.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Window & Curtains – Repeat steps 5.5 to 5.19 to position and attach the Window Frame and Curtains.

Removable Items – The Pot on the stove, the Pie in the Oven, the hanging Cutlery and all the items in the Fridge & Freezer are all designed to be double-sided and removable.

If you wish to have them single sided and attached, follow the decoration as instructed over the next few steps, but instead of making them double sided, attach directly where indicated on the pattern.

To have them double-sided and removable, follow below.

The 1x Peas, 1x Plastic Container Tub, 1x Ice Tray, Milk, 1x Egg Box and the Sauce Tube should all still have their paper backing on.  This is so you can attach the lettering now, without melting the pattern piece onto your ironing board!

Apply the lettering as per the pattern pieces for all removable pieces. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Where there is detail stitching, do this as desired now too.

Each of the removable items should now have letters and/or detail stitching complete now if applicable. They will not be assembled yet.

For each of these removable items, we will now attach some Hook (scratchy) tape to the back piece.

Place then stitch a 1-inch strip of hook tape horizontally on the back of each of these pieces: 

• 1x Spoon
• 1x Spatula
• 1x Knife
• Pot Back
• 4x Plastic Container Back
• 1x Peas
• 1x Ice Tray
• 1x Milk Carton
• Bread Back
• Cake Back
• Sauce Back
• 1x Watermelon
• 3x Onions

For the Spoon, Spatula and Knife the tape should be placed near the end of the handle. For all other pieces, it should be centered horizontally.

Where the piece is too narrow to attach a 1 inch strip of hook tape, cut the tape to fit.

Place the front features of each of these pieces onto the back, wrong sides together.

Where there are several layers, start with the bottom piece first.

Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

If there are stray pieces which aren’t quite aligned perfectly, trim these now.

The only removeable pieces that will not be complete yet are the Grapes, Carrots, Pie and Eggs. All other removable pieces should be finished now.

Eggs – For each of the Eggs, stitch a small piece of hook tape to the back, then place two Egg pieces wrong sides together. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. Repeat until you have 10 eggs in total.

NOTE – If your fridge holds 12 eggs in its egg box, you could cut extra eggs and make your box slightly longer.

NOTE – The Eggs are double-sided solely to make them slightly more 3D. If you are short on fabric or do not wish to do this, cut only 5 Eggs.

Place then stitch a 1-inch strip of hook tape horizontally onto the back of each Egg piece.

You will have 4 Egg Box pieces. Place the two mirror image pairs wrong sides together and iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

NOTE – One Egg Box piece will have lettering and detail stitching on the front of it. This is the front.

Take the Egg Box you applied the lettering to and cut the lines as per the markings so that Eggs can be slipped inside.

Place the two Egg Box pieces right sides up. Place the one with the lettering & hole on top. 

Once you are happy with the placement, stitch all the way around the outside edge of the box. Leave the bottom edges of the hole unstitched so the Eggs can be placed inside.

Place each Egg into the box, the back ones first with the front ones overlapping to check placement.

Place loop tape at the placement and stitch in place.

Place the Eggs inside the Egg Box.

Carrots – For all three Carrots, place two Carrot Top pieces wrong sides together. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. 

Place then stitch a 1-inch strip of hook tape horizontally onto the back of the Carrot.

For all three Carrots, place one Carrot Top onto the top of a Carrot, overlapping approximately ½ inch. Placed a second Carrot piece on top, right side up. 

Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. 

Hand or machine sew the features onto the Carrots as marked on the pattern piece.

Grapes – Repeat step 6.12 to attach all of the Grapes to one Grape Backing piece.

Start with the Grape in the bottom corner, then apply in rows moving up towards the top.

Place the two Grape Stalk pieces wrong sides together. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. 

Place then stitch a 1-inch strip of hook tape vertically on the Grapes Backing piece that does not have the Grapes attached.

Repeat step 6.12 to sandwich the Grape Stalk between the Grapes and Grape Backing. 

Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. 

Pie – Place strips of ribbon that are approximately 2-3 inches longer than required over the Pie Top in a lattice shape.

Thread the ribbon over and under so it forms a lattice. Pin.

Stitch around the edge of the Pie Top approximately ¼ inch from the raw edge to hold all the ribbons in place.

Trim the ribbon so it is approximately 1 inch wider than the Pie Top all the way around.

Fold the ribbon edges to the wrong side of the Pie Top. Pin.

Stitch all the way around the Pie Top on top of your previous stitching from step 6.19 to secure the ribbon edges so they stay folded under.

Place then stitch a 1-inch strip of hook tape horizontally onto the back of the Pie Backing.

Place your Pie Tin onto the Pie Backing.

Place the Pie Top on the Pie Backing too.

Iron/glue/stitch both in place.

Kitchen Units – The kitchen units are designed to be modular. Just like a real kitchen, this means you can use as many or as few as you want in your kitchen. You can also rearrange them as desired. 

Place one Kitchen Door Handle onto each Kitchen Drawer, and the Kitchen Cupboard. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Alternatively, if you wish to use buttons for the handles instead, place these aside and we will attach them later, so they don’t get in the way of stitching.

Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish each of the 5 Kitchen Drawers and the Kitchen Cupboard and turn them through.

Place four of the Kitchen Drawers onto one Kitchen Unit. Space the drawers evenly and centered onto the Unit, making sure to allow for the ½ inch seam allowance when we turn the Unit through. Pin.

There should be a bigger gap on the bottom of the Unit (just like in real life where the unit would have a kickboard underneath).

Topstitch around the outside edge of each of the Kitchen Drawers, using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Place the remaining Kitchen Drawers plus the Kitchen Cupboard onto one Kitchen Unit. Space as desired, making sure to allow for the ½ inch seam allowance when we turn the Unit through. Again, ensure there is a bigger gap at the bottom that matches the one on the Unit with the Drawers.

If you are using buttons for handles, stitch these on now. You can use any size button – here we have used buttons that are approximately ¾ inch wide.

Place the Oven Controls onto the Oven Control Panel making sure to allow for the ½ inch seam allowance on the Oven Control Panel. 

Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Oven Control Knobs onto each of the Oven Controls. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Alternatively stitch on a button instead. You can use any size button – here we have used buttons that are approximately ¾ inch wide.

Place the Oven Shelf onto the Oven Interior. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

If you do not want the Pie to be removable, stitch this to the Oven Interior now. 

If you do want the Pie to be removable, temporarily place the Pie Back onto the Oven Shelf to get the placement. Then cut a length of hook tape approximately 1 inch long and place it horizontally onto the Oven Interior lined up with the loop tape on the back of the Pie. 

Stitch the loop tape in place.

Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish each of the Oven Interior, Oven Exterior and Oven Control Panel and turn them through. 

 Place the Oven Interior, Oven Exterior and Oven Control Panel onto the last Kitchen Unit, making sure to allow for the ½ inch seam allowance on the Unit.

Once you are happy with the placement, stitch each in place.

Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish each of the Kitchen Units and turn them through. 

Fridge – Place each of the Fridge Shelves onto the Fridge Interior. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Temporarily place all of the removable items onto the Fridge and Freezer Interiors to get placement. 

Place then stitch loop tape on to match up with the hook tape on the item.

Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish the Fridge Interior and Freezer Interior and turn them through. 

Place the Fridge Interior and Freezer Interior onto the Fridge / Freezer Back and stitch in place.

Hand or machine stitch the line that divides the Fridge & Freezer on the Fridge/Freezer Back.

Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish the Fridge / Freezer Back and turn it through. 

Place the Fridge / Freezer Door Handles onto the Fridge & Freezer Door pieces. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. 

Remember to allow for a ½ inch seam allowance when placing these. They should be 1 inch from the side and top edge for the Fridge, and 1 inch from the bottom and side edge for the Freezer, both on the right hand side.

We are now going to finish the Fridge Door and Freezer Door and turn them through. However this time we will use the regular method where you leave a gap in the stitching.

Place the Fridge Door pieces right sides together. Stitch around the outside edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-4 inch gap at the center of the bottom straight edge.

Clip the corners, turn through the gap and press. Make sure any raw edges are folded up into the gap.

Repeat for the Freezer Door, turning on that top straight edge.

Topstitch around the Fridge and Freezer Doors. Stitch along the top, bottom, and right side edges. Do not stitch the left side edge.

We will now stitch hook tape to the back of the Fridge & Freezer Doors, underneath the Door Handles. You will stitch matching loop tape to the Fridge Back where the fabric will be when closed.

Stitch a strip of hook tape to the back of the Fridge & Freezer Doors under the Door Handles. Cut it the same length as the Door Handles, but stitch just inside the Handle all the way around from the front of the Door so it catches the tape.

Temporarily place the Fridge & Freezer Doors onto the Fridge Back to get placement. Then place and stitch a matching segment of loop tape where the hook tape will meet. 

TIP – Depending on the weight of your Doors, you may also wish to place a piece of hook & loop tape on the top right hand edge of the Freezer Door so that it doesn’t flap down and open when it is vertical on the wall.

Place each of the three Kitchen Units and the Fridge Back onto the Wall as per the markings on the Wall pattern piece (or as desired). Stitch in place.

Stitch down the left side of the Fridge & Freezer Door, stitching a rectangle for maximum strength. The edge of the rectangle should start ¼ inch from the edge of the Door and be approximately ¼ inch wide

TIP – Depending on how stiff your interfacing is, you may need to attach additional pieces of hook & loop tape to keep the Fridge & Freezer Doors from sagging when closed. Apply as required.

Repeat step 6.33 to attach loop tape under where the Pot will go.

Utensil Holder – Place the Utensil Holder onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Temporarily place the Utensils onto the Utensil Holder to get placement. Place, then stitch, loop tape onto the Utensil Holder matching up with the hook tape on the Utensils.

Tap – Place the Tap onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Your Interior Back / Kitchen is finished!

If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the detail pieces.

The Wall will be assembled as per the line drawing here and the markings on the Wall pattern piece. If you wish to assemble differently, please follow your own layout.

Moulding – Repeat steps 5.2 to 5.4 to finish and attach the Moulding to the top of the Side Wall piece.

Window & Curtains – Repeat steps 5.3 to 5.19 to position and attach the Window Frame and Curtains.

Bath – Repeat steps 1.65 to 1.70 to finish the Bath piece and turn it through. Do not attach it to the Side Wall yet.

Place all the Bath pieces temporarily onto the Side Wall to get the positioning.

Once you are happy with the layout, remove everything except the Shower Pipe. Then iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Place the Bath back onto the Side Wall and stitch to secure.

Place the Shower Head, Bath Claw Feet and Bath Roll Top onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Shelves – Place all three Bathroom Shelves onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure.

Fold the Towel in half lengthwise and press. Put aside.

Cut two lengths of trim approximately ¾ inch long.

NOTE – You can use ¼ inch or ½ inch wide trim.

Place these at the bottom of the lowest Bathroom Shelf ¼ inch in from the edge, running vertically. Pin.

Stitch in place.

Cut a length of trim that fits between these two smaller strips.

If you want your Towel to be fixed, butt the trim up into the fold, place the trim and Towel onto the Wall and stitch in place.

If you want your Towel to be removable, place the trim onto the Wall, and stitch each end in place securely (I went over mine several times, and even added a tiny scrap of double-sided interfacing under each end to glue and really secure it as I know my children are likely to pull on it!). 

Then thread the Towel through the trim.

For each of the Shampoo Bottle Label, Conditioner Bottle Label, Lotions Bottle Label, Potions Bottle and Toothpaste Tube, hand or machine sew the lettering as marked on the pattern pieces.

All the items on the Shelves are all optionally removeable. 

If you would like to fix the items, place all the remaining items onto the Wall. Iron/glue/place and then stitch to secure. Repeat to attach any labels and caps where required.

If you would like the items to be removable, follow steps 6.4 to 6.5 to finish each item, attach hook tape to the back of them and attach loop tape onto the Side Wall where they will go.