Taylor Trench

Pattern markings

Transfer all pattern markings from the pattern pieces to your fabric.

Interfacing

Apply iron-on interfacing to the Under Collar and 1x Collar Band (the one that will be the inner collar band, touching the neck) using the manufacturer’s instructions. You do not need to apply interfacing to the collar or other collar band. 

For best results, the interfacing should be placed on each facing piece and begin ironing from the center to the outside of the yoke to avoid wrinkles. Make sure to do a test patch on a spare piece of fabric and use your interfacing manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the interfacing goes on smoothly with no ‘bubbles’ in it. 

TIP – Trim half the seam allowance (¼ inch) off the interfacing before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

Darts A

Mark the darts onto both Back Lining pieces.

There are many methods of doing this so you may want to use one with which you’re more familiar. 

Alternatively, lay the fabric wrong side up on your ironing board. Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with half of the back. Place a pin directly through each of the four corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board. Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place. Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the four pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have four pins marking each of the corner points of the dart. It’s quite difficult to photograph pins, there is an arrow on the photographs on the left where the pins are.

Draw the dart in between the corner points using tailors chalk or a special pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the four pins in the fabric at the corner points. 

Leave the fabric where it is, turn the paper pattern piece over, and repeat with the mirror image other half of the bodice, using the pin holes as your four corner points.

Darts B

Sew the darts onto both back pieces. 

With right sides together, fold the fabric of the back down the centerline of one dart. 

Stitch from the middle of the dart at its widest and sew toward one point. 

At this stage, you will have only stitched one half of one back dart.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

NOTE – The reason we use directional stitching here is that it helps preserve the grainline. In the case of a double-pointed dart like these back ones, it gives you more control over the angle as you approach the point and ensures that you’re never starting to stitch at the edge of the fabric. Starting to sew at the edge is tricky because your sewing machine can pull the fabric down and chew it up.

Darts C

Repeat step B for the other point, starting your stitches over the previous stitching and gently curve down towards the other point.

You should now have completed stitching one back dart.

Repeat steps B and C to complete the other back dart on the other back piece.

Darts D

Clip into the middle of each dart. Press the darts towards the center back.

TIP – Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the point sit flat when we turn it right way out. To secure the snip, you can add a drop of fray check if you want. 

TIP – Use the very end of your scissors for maximum control. If you use mid-way through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

If you are doing the Yoke detailing, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 2.

Match two Front Yoke pieces, one main fabric and one lining, right sides together and sew along the curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat with the other two Front Yoke pieces.

Trim seam allowances to reduce bulk and clip the curves, then turn both yokes right sides out and press well.

TIP – You can either use pinking shears to trim and clip the seam at the same time (see the first photo), or regular scissors to trim and then snip small triangles out of the curve (see the second photo). Either way, you are trimming and clipping to reduce bulk and allow the fabric to sit flat when you turn it through in the next step. Make sure to only clip approximately ¾ of the way into the seam allowance. Do not clip all the way in or you risk creating a hole.

Topstitch around the curves approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.

Add a buttonhole where the pattern marking indicates on both yokes. The buttonhole will point diagonally into the yoke.

Open your buttonholes by placing a pin through one end of the buttonhole and using a seam ripper to open up each buttonhole.

NOTE – The child and doll pattern pieces are straight as pictured in this step. The ladies front seam, however, is a curved princess seam. This means one pattern piece is more curved than the other over the bust. You ease them together and this creates a shape in the bust area, so it fits well. For the ladies pattern pieces, you will need to pin at the top of the seam, skip the curve, then pin from the bottom upwards, easing the fabric in around the curve. As you sew, go slowly over the curve, and stretch/ease the fabric under your presser foot. Watching the video in the sleeve setting in step may help if you get stuck sewing this curve. This will also apply later when assembling the back pieces.

Line Left Front piece with one of the Front side pieces right sides together.

Sew along the long side using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open 

You will be sewing princess seams at this step. You will be easing the two pieces together at the seam. After sewing the seam, you may need to clip into the seam allowance to allow the seam to lay well. 

Use the very point of your scissors for maximum control. Snip halfway only into the seam approximately every 1 – 2 inches, along all curved sections of this seam. 

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 with the Right Front piece and other Front Side piece.

If you are not doing the yoke detailing, skip to step 3.1.

If you are doing the yoke detailing, place the Left Front piece right side up and lay the Left Front Yoke piece right side up on top of it, matching the raw shoulder edges. 

Baste at neckline, shoulders, and armscyes ¼ inch from the edge.

Repeat with Right Front and Right Front Yoke pieces.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before. It is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see them in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

If you are doing the welt pockets, follow the steps below. Otherwise skip to step 4.

Transfer the pattern markings for the welt pockets to the two front pieces. To do this, pin the two front pattern pieces to the front pieces matching the raw edges to the edge of the pattern. 

On the pattern, there is a rectangle shape with an open side, this is the final placement of the welt pocket. 

Stick a pin through each corner of the welt marking, making sure the pin is going through the pattern and the fabric. 

Lift the pattern up and make a small mark at each pin. Remove the pattern piece.

NOTE – The welt part of the pocket will get placed on these markings. The top edge of the pocket will be open for you to slip your hand inside. 

Fold the Welt Pocket piece in half, right sides together, and pin on the two short sides. 

Sew the two short sides using the ½ inch seam allowance.  

Clip the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk. 

Turn the Welt Pocket piece right sides out and press well. 

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Sew a buttonhole in the middle of the welt if desired.

Decide which side of your welt pocket will be facing out when finished (if you are using a printed fabric). On the wrong side mark a line ¼ inch from the raw edge. 

Lay one front piece right side up and place your welt pocket on top of that piece right side down. The corners of the raw edge will match up to the two marks that were transferred from the pattern.

See the second photo below with the red lines. These are the original pattern markings. The raw edge of your welt pocket should line up with the bottom of the marking.

It may look odd, but the welt pocket will be flipped up and onto the markings later.

Pin in place and sew on the marked line (¼ inch from the raw edge of the pocket).

Lay one Lining Pocket piece right side down with the raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the Welt Pocket piece. 

The Lining Pocket should be facing up on top of your garment. Again, it will look odd, but this is correct. The pocket will be turned down and inside the garment shortly.

Mark a line ¼ inch from the raw edge of the lining pocket, pin in place. The line should only be as long as your welt pocket (not the full length of the pocket). 

Sew on the marked line, sewing only the length of the Welt Pocket piece. 

Do not sew into the seam allowance of the pocket.

Take the other Lining Pocket piece and mark a line ¼ inch from the raw edge on the wrong side. Lay this piece on top of the Welt Pocket piece, right side down.

This pocket should be pointing down the garment.

The raw edges of both Lining Pocket pieces should be butting up against each other. 

Sew on the marked line; this should be directly on top of the stitching that attached the Welt Pocket to the front of the Coat. 

Do not sew into the seam allowances of the Lining Pocket piece.

On the back of the front Coat piece, your two lines of stitching should be ½ inch apart. 

Draw a line down the middle of these two lines of stitching stopping ¼ inch before the end of the stitching.

I’ve drawn lines on the second photo on the left so you can see. The blue dashed lines are the stitching you did in steps 3.8 and 3.10. The red line is where you need to mark and cut.

Using the tips of your scissors, carefully cut on the marked line only. 

On the right side of your Coat, pin back the seam allowance of the Lining Pocket pieces and the Welt Pocket piece. 

Next, we will open up the corners of the pocket opening. See the second photo on the left. Cut at the red markings diagonal from your first cut in step 3.11.

Cut two diagonal lines from each end of the cut line to the end of the stitching (see the red markings). Be careful not to cut through the stitches!

Pull the Lining Pocket pieces through to the wrong side of the front Coat piece and press well. 

There should now be a gap in between the two pocket pieces.

Press the little triangles open and flat.

Lay the Lining Pocket pieces right sides together and pin. Pull one over towards the other. Align the raw edges. Do not worry about the pocket laying flat at this point.

Pin the little triangle to the Lining Pocket piece that is not sewn to the Welt Pocket Pieces (the first right sides together Pocket Lining piece we sewed).

Using a zipper foot, sew the triangle in place at both ends, then sew around the Lining Pocket pieces. Press the whole pocket well.

Stitch around the pocket a second time in the seam allowance. This will reinforce your pocket stitching so it can take the weight of items being placed in here without the stitches breaking (e.g. phone, keys, hands, little person’s treasures!).

The last step is to stitch down the flap on the welt so you can slip your hands in your pockets nicely and the whole pocket is hidden and smooth.

To secure the Welt Pocket on the front of the Coat, you can either machine stitch it down, or hand stitch.

Hand stitching is the traditional method and will mean the stitches are hidden. If you wish to hand sew, stitch X-style from the wrong side catching the underside of the welt so that your stitches are not seen from the front. X stitches are simply small X’s where you catch the fabric slightly on the front of the fabric but are really strong on the underside of the fabric. Sew these sturdy stitches on the entire length of both short sides of the welt. 

Alternatively, if you prefer, machine stitch the edges down.

If you inserted a buttonhole in the Welt Pocket, sew a button on the front piece that matches up to the buttonhole.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.18 for the other Welt Pocket.

If you are doing the Patch Pockets, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 5.

Lay Patch Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and pin. Sew around the flap using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch hole for turning. 

Clip the corners and curves. 

Turn and press well, ensuring all the raw edges are tucked inside.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Topstitch around the entire flap ⅛ inch from the edge.

Insert a buttonhole in the center of the flap.

TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!

TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty, switch to a matching color or use a contrasting color in a regular weight. 

TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop from ripping through the other side of your buttonhole.

Lay the Patch Pocket main and lining pieces together and pin. 

Sew around all sides using a ½ inch seam allowance and leaving a 2-inch hole for turning. 

Clip the corners and curves. Turn and press well, ensuring the raw edges are all tucked inside.

Topstitch the top of the pocket only ⅛ inch from the edge.

Lay the Front pattern piece on top of your Front piece. Stick a pin through the top corner of the pocket marking on the pattern and transfer this mark to the Front piece. The top outside corner of the Patch Pocket will go on this mark. 

Pin the Patch Pocket onto the Front piece. 

Your patch pocket should be straddling the front and side front seam (it should not be entirely on the front piece only or it will be in the way of the buttons).

NOTE – The chevron pattern on the fabric in the photo is purposely mismatched so you can see where the dot is in relation to the seam.

Sew around the sides and the bottom of Patch Pocket at ⅛ inch attaching it to the Front. 

Do not sew across the top of the pocket.

Place the Patch Pocket Flap on top of the Patch Pocket with the top of the flap ½ inch above the top of the pocket and pin in place. 

Sew over the topstitching on the top of the flap to attach it to the Front.

Sew a button on the Patch Pocket.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.9 for the other patch pocket and front.

Take the Left Back piece and the Left Back Side piece and line them up right sides together and sew along the long, straight side using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.

Repeat with Right Back and Right Back Sides pieces.

Lay the two Back pieces right sides together and pin. 

Make a mark ⅜ inch past the diagonal cut for the vent.

Sew from the neckline to the mark you just made.

Press this seam open from the neckline until about an inch above the vent. 

Do not press the vent open.

If you are doing the Yoke detailing, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 7.

First, we need to assemble the Back Yoke Lining and facing together. 

Get the Back Yoke lining and back yoke facing. You do not need the back yoke for this step.

Lay the Back Yoke Lining right side up and lay the Back Yoke Facing right side down. 

Begin pinning in the middle so that the top point of the Facing is matched up with the bottom point of the Back Yoke Lining. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

When sewing them together, when you get to the middle point, leave your needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the pieces, making sure the facing is flat. 

Clip the point and press the seam up towards the top of the Back Yoke Lining. 

Your Back Yoke Lining with the facing attached should now be the same size and shape as your Back Yoke.

We will now join the assembled back yoke lining to the back yoke.

Match the Lining and Facing with the Back Yoke right sides together and sew along the V only using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the point, turn, and press.

Topstitch the V ⅛ inch from the edge.

Stitch a buttonhole.

Lay the Back piece right side up. Place the Back Yoke right side up on top of the back piece. 

Baste ¼ inch from the edge at the armholes, shoulders, and neckline.

Sew a button on the Back piece that matches up to the buttonhole. 

TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure it is going to line up. If needed, move any buttons to better line up with your buttonholes.

TIP – When sewing flat buttons on a coat, I like to use 3 threads of embroidery floss. 

Do not stitch the buttons too close to the garment but instead leave enough space for the overlap layer. To do so, you will need to build a shank out of thread. 

To make the shank, sew your buttons with a toothpick over it. Once you are done sewing the button, remove the toothpick. This will automatically loosen up your button. Pull gently on the button to the end of your stitches to transfer all extra space under the button. 

Wrap your threads around the loops underneath the button a few times.  

Finish by sewing a few small stitches to the wrong side of the fabric at the base of the shank. 

If you are doing the Shoulder Tabs, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 8.

Lay two shoulder tab pieces right sides together and pin.

Sew around the two long sides and the pointed end using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave the short straight end unsewn.

Clip the seam allowances and corners, turn and press. Be sure to poke the points out fully.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Topstitch around the two long sides and the pointed end ⅛ inch from the edge.

Sew a buttonhole near the pointed tip, starting just inside the topstitching.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 with the other two shoulder tab pieces to make a second shoulder tab.

Lay the Back piece right side up. Lay the two Front pieces right sides down on top of the back piece, matching up the shoulders and pin. 

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance and press the shoulder seams open.

If you are not doing the Shoulder Tabs, skip to step 8.4.

If you are doing the shoulder tabs, lay the Coat pieces open right sides up. Pin the shoulder tabs on the shoulder seam and baste at the armscye ¼ inch from the edge.

Sew a button on each shoulder seam that matches up with the buttonhole on each shoulder tab. 

Match up the side seams of the Coat and pin. Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance and press open.

If you are doing the Sleeve Tabs, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 10.

Lay two of the Sleeve Tab pieces right sides together and pin. 

Stitch around the two long sides and the pointed ends using a ½ inch seam allowance. Be sure to leave the short straight side unsewn.

Trim the seam allowances to reduce bulk and clip the corners.

Turn the Sleeve Tabs right sides out and press well. Be sure to poke out the pointed ends.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Topstitch around the two long ends and the pointed end ⅛ inch from the edge.

Sew a buttonhole near the pointed end where the pattern marking indicates.

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.5 with the other two sleeve tab pieces.

Fold the Loop in half wrong sides together. Press.

Open the Loop up and fold the bottom raw edge wrong sides together to meet the fold and press. Fold the top raw edge wrong sides together to meet the fold and press.

Fold the Loop in half and press. The Loop should now be ⅜ inch wide.

Edgestitch down both long sides of the folded Loop ⅛ inch from the edges.

Cut the Loop into five equal pieces, each 3 ½ inches long.

Take one Loop and fold the ends under ½ inch and press them.

Lay the Loop on the right side of the Coat piece according to the pattern markings for the Belt Loops and pin in place.

FIT CHECK – Try the Coat on and check if the Loops are positioned comfortably for you. If you prefer them higher or lower, move them accordingly. 

Edgestitch both ends of the Belt Loop to secure it to the Coat. Your stitching should be ¼ to ⅛ inch away from each folded edge. 

Go back and forwards a few times to create strength. The Belt will pull on the Belt Loops as you move it and tie/untie it, so it is well worth stitching over your stitching a few times to really make sure it’s attached well.

Repeat steps 10.6 to 10.8 for the other two Loop pieces. Keep two Loops aside for the Sleeve.

If you are not doing the Sleeve Tabs, skip to step 11.2.

If you are doing the Sleeve Tab, lay one Over Sleeve piece right sides up and lay one Sleeve Tab on top of the Over Sleeve, matching the raw edges of the Sleeve Tab to the notches on the side of the Over Sleeve. The Sleeve Tab should fit in between the notches. 

Pin the Sleeve Tab in place and baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Lay the Over Sleeve and Under Sleeve right sides together and pin on the raw edge with the vent. Be sure the point of the Under Sleeve is overlapping the raw edge of the Over Sleeve at the sleeve head.

Make a mark 1 inch past the top of the vent.

Stitch from the Sleeve head to the 1 inch mark using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Make sure the Sleeve Tab is pushed out of the way, so it doesn’t get sewn. 

Press the seam open, including the bottom part which is not sewn.

Clip the seam allowance on the Over Sleeve (the bigger one). 

You need to clip quite close to the stitching but be careful not to snip through it!

Fold the Over Sleeve vent over the Under Sleeve Vent.

This is the one you just snipped the seam allowance of. The bigger piece should now be covering the little piece of the vent.

Fold the raw edge of the Over Sleeve back on itself so that the raw edge of the Over Sleeve vent lines up with the raw edge of the seam allowance. 

Press in place.

Fold the bottom of the Sleeve to the wrong side to create a memory hem that is 1½ inches.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s much easier to do this now, than to try and press the sleeve hem later when the sleeve is stitched into a circle.

Pin the remaining two loops on the Sleeves according to the pattern markings to help hold the Sleeve Tab in place.

Stitch in place.

Unfold your memory hem and match the two long raw edges of the sleeve right sides together and pin. 

Stitch along the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you are doing the Sleeve Tab, the raw edge you basted in place should be sandwiched between these two layers, so you are stitching it into place. Be careful to keep the other end of the Sleeve Tab free.

Press the seam open as best you can and re-fold the memory hem.

Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.10 with the other Sleeve.

When setting in the sleeve, you will notice the sleeve head is larger than the sleeve opening. You will be easing the sleeve in around the seam line, not the raw edges. This is a tailored style sleeve that gives the sleeve a slight puffed appearance at the shoulder that ready to wear coats have. 

For tips on how to set in a traditional tailored style sleeve, watch the video on how to ease in the Sleeve at the seam here. This video is for another one of our patterns (the Kingston Coat), but the technique is the same.

Then follow the steps below:

Check you have marked from the pattern pieces which is the “front” side of the Sleeve (faces towards the front of the body), and which is the “back” (faces towards the back). The Sleeves are not symmetrical, so this is important.

Turn one Sleeve right side out and the Coat wrong side out. 

The Under Sleeve section (the smaller of the two sleeve pieces) should be going towards the back of the Coat. Check you have matched the correct sleeve to the correct armhole before continuing.

Check your notch (the small line denoting the center underarm) on the Under Sleeve pattern piece is still marked on your Under Sleeve piece (the smaller one). If it is not, mark this from the pattern piece again now with a pin.

With right sides together, slide the sleeve in the sleeve opening, matching the side seam of the Coat to the notch on the Under Seam. 

Pin at the Coat side seam.

NOTE – Do not fold the Sleeve in half to find the center top and bottom. This is not quite where the side seam is. Instead, check your pattern pieces for the notches (little markings) and align these with the side seam and shoulder seam of the coat.

Hold the pieces so that the Coat is on the bottom and the sleeve is on the top. Pull the Coat piece taut and hold the sleeve relaxed. 

Using your thumb, smooth the sleeve fabric so that it is flat and smooth at the seam. 

The seam allowance will look rippled, that is okay. It is the section of fabric where you’ll be stitching (½ inch in from the edge) which you want flat.

NOTE – Do not try to align the raw edges, they will not match. It is at the seam allowance (½ inch from the edge) that you need to ease the fabric, so it matches.

Continue to pin around the Sleeve head, being sure to pull the Coat piece taut and ease in the Sleeve at the seam. 

Go slowly and sew the Sleeve into the Sleeve opening using a ½ inch seam allowance.

When you sew the Sleeve, sew with the Coat on the bottom and the Sleeve on top. Hold the pieces so that they are curved up so that the Coat piece stays taut and the Sleeve piece is relaxed. 

Make sure you are sewing right on the ½ inch seam allowance so that the sleeve fabric is flat, and you are not sewing on the rippled part. 

Turn the sleeve right way out and check your fabric is smooth around the armhole on both the Coat and the Sleeve.

Turn the Sleeve back inside out. Stitch around the armhole again, this time inside the seam allowance ¼ inch from the edge.

The armhole is one of the most stressed areas of the garment when it is being worn (it moves so much and gets pulled, twisted and pressure put on). Stitching this second row of stitches gives it more strength. 

Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.5 for the other Sleeve.

Lay Top Collar and Under Collar right sides together and sew around the short edges and the top curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave the bottom edge open. 

Clip curves and trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk. 

Turn and press. 

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge, leaving the bottom open.

Lay one Collar Band right side up, place the collar right side down on top of it. 

Lay the other Collar Band piece right side down so that the collar is sandwiched between the two Collar Band pieces. 

Ensure that the interfaced collar band is right side facing with the non-interfaced collar piece.

Pin in place.

Starting along one short end, sew around the two short ends and the long end of the Collar Band where the raw edges of the collar and band meet. 

Be very careful not to catch the collar in your stitching when you stitch the ends. It should only be caught in your stitching along the top. 

Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance to remove bulk. 

Turn the Collar Band right sides out and press well.

Top stitch around the sides and top of the collar stand ⅛ inch from the edge.

OPTIONAL – Add collar stand details if desired.

For this one, we have top stitched parallel lines along the collar stand. There’s no practical purpose to this other than to create a pretty detail. You could leave yours plain, stitch the same, or even do an embroidery or swirly detail. Remember the bottom ½ inch of the collar stand will be hidden inside the seam allowance with the coat.

Find the center of the Collar Band on the raw edge and find the center on the back of the Coat. Match center points with the right sides together. Continue pinning on both sides until the collar is pinned to the Coat. 

Baste the collar to the Coat using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Take one Front Lining piece and one Front Facing piece and lay the long straight edges right sides together and pin. Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance and press the seam open. 

Repeat with the other Front Lining and Front Facing pieces.

Lay the two Back Lining pieces right sides together and pin. Make a mark ⅜ inch past the top of the vent. Sew from the neckline to the mark using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam open stopping 1 inch before the top of the vent, do not press the vent yet.

If you have a business label, attach this now at the center back, 1½ inches from the neckline on the center back piece.

OPTIONAL Hanging Loop – It’s handy to have a little loop to hang your garment on hooks with. If you wish to add one, fold your hanging loop like double fold bias tape, and top stitch it closed. If you don’t wish to do this, skip to step 14.5.

Fold your hanging loop wrong sides together in half along its length. Press.

Open the loop up again. Fold the raw edges in to meet up at the center fold line you just created. Press.

Fold in half again down the original fold line. Press.

The raw edges should now be neatly tucked inside, and the loop should be ¼ of its original width, but the same length.

Top stitch down either edge of the loop to hold in place.

Fold the coat in half to find the center back. Measure ½ inch either side of the center point and pin each end of the hanging loop. Make sure to match the raw ends so that the hanging loop is attached by the full seam allowance.

Stitch in place ¼ inch from the raw edge. This stitching will be hidden inside the seam allowance on the finished coat. Do not baste but use a normal stitch. That way you’ll have 2 rows of stitching when the coat is finished to keep it strong and able to hold the weight when hanging.

Lay the Back Lining right side up and lay the two Front Lining pieces right side down on top, matching the shoulders. 

Sew the shoulder seams using a ½ inch seam allowance and press open.

Lay the Front Lining and Back Lining pieces right sides together and pin the side seams. 

Sew side seams of lining using a ½ inch seam allowance and press open.

Take one of the Lining Over Sleeve pieces and one of the Lining Under Sleeve pieces and lay them right sides together on the side with the notch, matching notches. Pin together. The point of the under sleeve should be overlapping the sleeve head of the over sleeve. 

Sew from the Sleeve head to the notch only using a half inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam open including the vent (the section of the sleeve below the notch that you did not stitch). The pressed vent section of the seam should continue on from the seam in a straight line.

Fold the Sleeve hem under ½ inch for ladies and press to create a memory hem.

Make sure to keep the seam you created in the last step folded open too so that you get a nice crisp folded edge either side of the little V shaped vent.

Open the memory hem and match up the two raw edges with the right sides together and pin. 

Sew from the Sleeve head to the bottom of the sleeve using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open as best you can and refold the memory hem back up again.

Repeat steps 14.7 to 14.9 with the other lining sleeve pieces.

Turn the lining sleeves right side out and the lining wrong side out. 

Slide the Sleeve inside the lining making sure the under sleeve is facing the back of the lining. 

As you did with the main coat Sleeve, match the notches from the sleeve lining pattern piece to the side seam.

Pin at the side seam.

Ease the Sleeve into the lining at the seam using the method used earlier on the Coat Sleeves, matching the notches.

Sew the lining Sleeves into the armhole using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Repeat steps 14.10 to 14.11 with the other lining sleeve.

Press the bottom hem of the Coat under 1 ½ inches.

Press the bottom hem of the lining under ½ inch.

Find the center back of the Coat at the collar and the center back of the lining at the neckline. 

Place the lining and Coat right sides together matching the center back points. 

Pin around the neckline and down the front on both sides of the Coat. 

The Collar should be sandwiched between the Coat and lining. Your coat and lining should be the same length at the hem.

Leave the hems at the bottom of the lining and Coat folded up when you sew so they get caught in your stitching.

Starting at the hem on one side, sew around both front sides and the collar using a ½ inch seam allowance. Do not sew along the bottom hem, we will finish this later separately.

Clip corners, turn right sides out and press. Make sure to poke the corners out so you get a nice crisp edge.

NOTE – We are following a traditional trench turning method where we will be hand stitching the hem closed. It gives a great finish and means there won’t be any pulling between the coat and the lining at the hem. It also means we can get a super clean finish to the back vent. There are other methods of attaching a coat to a lining where you also stitch the coat and sleeve hems (as we do in our Amsterdam Coat pattern for example) at the same time. If you prefer this method, do this now. Otherwise follow along for this method.

Lay the Coat with Coat facing right side up. 

Unfold the bottom hem and fold it the opposite way, right sides together and pin. 

On the left side of the vent measure over 2 inches for the ladies sizes and make a vertical mark from the fold to the raw edge.

On the right side of the vent measure over ⅜ inch and make a vertical mark from the fold to the raw edge.

Sew on both of the drawn lines. 

Turn the corners and press, making sure to poke out the corners. You shouldn’t need to clip the corners. It should fold neatly and press well.

Press the fold all the way to the top of the vent.

The left side of the vent you marked first should line up perfectly with the center back seam. The right side of the vent you marked second will not line up and will extend past the center back seam.

Lay Coat with the lining facing right side up. Unfold the bottom hem (½ inch) and fold it the opposite way, right sides together and pin. 

On the right side of the vent measure over 2 inches and make a vertical mark from the fold to the raw edge.

On the left side of the vent measure over ⅜ inch and make a vertical mark from the fold to the raw edge.

Sew on both of the drawn lines. Turn the corners and press, making sure to poke out the corners.

Press the fold all the way to the top of the vent.

The right side of the vent you marked first should line up perfectly with the center back seam. The left side of the vent you marked second will not line up and will extend past the center back seam.

Turn Coat so that lining is right side up. 

On both sides of the vent, line up the lining and the Coat along the vent and pin.

Lay the left vent pieces on top of the right vent pieces. There should be some extra fabric on the left lining vent at the top of the vent. 

Fold the extra fabric under so it forms a diagonal, encasing the raw edges of the top of the vent. 

There should be no raw edges showing. Press well and pin.

Edgestitch along the top of the vent starting in the middle back seam. You are stitching through all layers here and this diagonal line will be visible on the exterior of the coat.

Next you will slipstitch the hem from the top of the vent to the front of the Coat on both sides. 

This hand stitch does take longer than sewing a visible machine stitch, but it will create a more polished, professional look.

Begin by lifting the lining on the left side of the vent away from the Coat at the vent. From the wrong side of the lining, put your needle through the lining right on the fold so your knot will be inside the lining and not visible.

If you know how to slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’), continue to slip stitch both sides of the vent and along the hem to the front so the entire hem is finished, then skip to step 19. If you do not know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps.

NOTE – The following steps are shown on different fabric with contrasting thread to show the steps more clearly.

NOTE – If you do not want to hand sew, you can machine sew the same seam by pinning then top stitching each side of the vent. It does not give the same finish and will show on the exterior of the coat but is much faster.

Now line your lining vent and Coat vent back up. Holding the fabrics together, stick your needle through just a small amount of the Coat fabric and pull the thread through.

Put your needle into the fold of the lining fabric passing the needle through the fold a short distance. Pull the thread taut. 

Starting directly opposite where your needle came out of the lining fabric, stick your needle through a small amount of the Coat fabric and pull the thread through. 

Starting directly opposite where your needle came out of the Coat fabric, stick your needle into the fold of the lining fabric and pass the needle through a short distance.

Continue until you reach the front of the Coat and repeat for the other side of the vent and hem.

We will now finish the sleeve vent in a similar way to the back vent, however we will line up the edges of the vent differently.

This can be a slightly tricky part – watch this video to help. What I would recommend is to watch the video, then go through step 19 and pin the whole sleeve hem & vent in the order suggested along where the blue dotted lines are in the photos. Then come back and read through again, this time slip stitching the lining to the shell (using the same technique as in step 18) as per the blue dotted lines.

There are also photos of the finished Sleeve vent towards the end of this step to help.

Turn the lining right side out and feed the Coat sleeves into the lining sleeves. They will be wrong sides together. 

Check the lining & coat are not twisted along the arm.

Bring the fold of the coat sleeve and lining sleeve hem together so they are flush along the hemline.

The coat sleeve vent will have a little flap in it, the lining will not. The two hemlines won’t match up if you just try to pin them together. The coat hemline will be longer than the lining hemline. This is correct.

Find the corner of the coat sleeve vent which is on top (it is on top while your coat is inside out. If your coat was right side out it would be underneath). Match the corner of the lining vent up with this and pin. Keeping the folded edges aligned and all the raw edges tucked inside, pin the sleeve and lining together on this side of the vent only.  Slipstitch in place.

NOTE – Do not try to match the seam between the sleeves and upper sleeves. They do not align. Just match the parts of the sleeve vent as shown.

Keeping the hemlines flush, continue to pin & stitch the coat and lining together.

Match the Coat and lining the rest of the way around the sleeve at the hem and pin then slipstitch.

Tuck the corner of the hem of the coat that is sticking out under, so it forms a diagonal with the raw edges inside. 

Pin then slipstitch along here.

Continue to pin then slipstitch the lining to the coat sleeve straight upwards.

The lining will not come all the way to the edge. It will come back up the vent before the end of the vent.

TIP – If you have difficulty with this, watch the video to see where you need to align this.

You should now have stitched all the way around the hemline as marked on the second photo. 

The lining and sleeve will be flush at the hemline and the part of the coat vent that is on the top when the coat is inside out. The lining will not be aligned with the other edge of the coat vent that is on the bottom when the coat is inside out.

All raw edges should be tucked inside.

NOTE – Again if you prefer you can machine stitch the sleeve hem. 

NOTE – The coat is right side out in some photos. 

Sew a button on the sleeve that matches up with the Sleeve Tab buttonhole.

If you are doing the Hood, follow the steps below. Otherwise skip to step 21.

Lay one main Hood piece right side up. Lay the main Hood Patch on top of the Hood right sides together matching the notch of the Hood to the notch on one end of the Hood Patch (the wider end of the Hood Patch goes near the top of the Hood).

Pin at the notch. Pin the Hood Patch at the other end and then ease in the Hood Patch and pin to the Hood. 

This is a very curved seam so depending on your fabric, the easing may need quite a few pins to make it work. Remember to ease the fabric at the seam line (½ inch in from the edge), rather than the raw edge. It doesn’t matter if the raw edges have bubbles or waves in them, it is the seam line where you want the two layers of fabric to sit flat against each other.

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance and press the seam open. 

Repeat with the other main Hood piece to attach it to the other side of the Hood Patch.

TIP – If you are using fabric that has no give to it and you are having difficulty easing in the Hood Patch you can try clipping into the seam allowance before sewing to help ease it in. Be sure not to clip past the ½ inch seam! Another option is to begin easing at the front of the hood where the notches are and trim the leftover from the hood at the neckline if you really need to. 

TIP – Sew with the Hood Patch on top as you feed it through your sewing machine. That way you can curve the fabric up a little as you feed it in to help ease the curve.

Repeat step 20.1 with the Lining Hood and Lining Hood Patch pieces.

OPTIONAL – If you are adding a hood cord, insert grommets or buttonholes on the Hood Facing according to the pattern markings. If not, skip to step 20.4.

NOTE – There are no markings for grommets on the baby sizes as hood cords aren’t recommended from a safety perspective.

Pin the top outer curve of the Hood Facing to the Lining Hood with right sides together.

Make sure you’ve got your hood facing the correct way around. The longer, outside curve gets stitched to the hood. The shorter, inside curve is the edge that will go next to your face. Unfold while pinned to double check it looks right.

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam towards the lining hood.

Turn the Hood wrong sides out and the Lining Hood right sides out. 

Place the Lining Hood inside the Hood and pin around all raw edges. 

Using a ½ inch seam allowance, sew around all the raw edges, leaving a 2-inch opening in the neckline for turning.

Clip the corners and curves in the seam allowance.

Turn the Hood right sides out and press.

NO HOOD CORD – If you are not doing the hood cord, optionally top stitch around the entire hood using a ⅛ inch seam allowance then skip to step 20.8.

HOOD CORD – If you are doing the hood cord, make a mark 1 inch in from the front edge of the hood at the bottom of each side. 

Begin in the middle of the neckline and topstitch along the neckline ⅛ inch. 

When you reach the mark you made, leave your needle down and lift the presser foot. 

Turn your hood and sew along the front of the hood with a 1-inch seam allowance to create the drawstring casing. When you reach the other side of the hood, finish topstitching around the neckline using your original ⅛ inch seam allowance so your stitching matches up.

Mark 1x buttonhole at each end of the hood, approximately ½ inch in from the corner. Mark 2x more buttonholes evenly spaced in the middle. All the buttonholes should be along the bottom of the hood (not the diagonal corner).

Stitch buttonholes.

Sew buttons on the collar that match up with the buttonholes.

NOTE – If you prefer, you could use snaps rather than buttons & buttonholes for this step.

If you are not doing the hood cord, skip to step 21. 

If you are doing the hood cord, using a safety pin or bodkin, insert the drawstring into one grommet and feed the drawstring through to the other grommet. 

Tie a knot in each end of the drawstring.

Alternatively, if you’d prefer, you can attach a drawstring clamp, lock, or toggle on each end of your drawstring instead of a knot.

Place one pair of mirror image Belt pieces right sides together. 

Stitch along the short square side using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open. 

Repeat for the other pair of belt pieces.

Lay the two belt pieces right sides together and pin.

Using a ½ inch seam allowance, sew all the way around, leaving a 2inch gap in one of the long sides for turning.

Clip the corners, turn, and press. Fold the raw edges into the inside of the belt and press.

Topstitch around all four sides of the Belt.

Optionally – If you wish to, run 4 to 6 straight lines of top stitching lines through the Belt (in the same manner as the collar), do this now.

If you have a belt buckle, attach this now to one end by threading the end over and through the center of the buckle. Stitch to secure.

Trench Length OPTION – Use all button and buttonhole markings on the front piece. You will have 6 buttonholes down the front edge.

Coat Length OPTION – Ignore the bottom sets of button and buttonhole markings on the front piece. You have 5 buttonholes down the front edge.

Choose which side on the front of the Coat you want the buttonholes and transfer the markings on that side of the Coat. 

Trench Length – You will be sewing 6 buttonholes on one front side of the Coat. The other column of 6 buttons on the coat are not functional, they are just buttons stitched on.

Coat Length – You will be sewing 5 buttonholes on one front side of the Coat. The other column of 5 buttons on the coat are not functional, they are just buttons stitched on.

Sew buttons on the front according to the pattern markings. 

Trench Length: 

• If you did the front yokes – You will be sewing 13 buttons on the front, including the buttons for the front yokes (one yoke obscures where the 14th button would be, so you skip this one).
• If you did not do the front yokes – You will stitch 12 buttons on the front (6 pairs). There is not a pattern marking for the top left button as you look at the pattern piece (it is the one you skip if you did the front yokes). Place this vertically in line with the column of buttons on the left, and horizontally in line with the matching button on the right.

Coat Length: 

• If you did the front yokes – You will be sewing 11 buttons on the front, including the buttons for the front yokes (one yoke obscures where the 12th button would be, so you skip this one).
• If you did not do the front yokes – You will stitch 10 buttons on the front (5 pairs). There is not a pattern marking for the top left button as you look at the pattern piece (it is the one you skip if you did the front yokes). Place this vertically in line with the column of buttons on the left, and horizontally in line with the matching button on the right.