The Everything Beach Bag

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings. Mark the pattern using either tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, or pins. NOTE – The pleat markings are the bottom edge of Pocket.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on midweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the Lining pieces. Interfacing is optional for the outer pieces; however, we recommend you do interface the Main Bottom piece for a bit more structure. 

Apply the fusible fleece to the Main Bottom piece, on top of the optional midweight fusible interfacing. This will give the bag extra stability.

OPTIONAL Decoration

Add a vinyl message or use fabric paints to make it your own! The Sides are a great place to add a message and personalize your bag. Have a look at our free cut files for some inspiration.

If you are adding OPTIONAL Pockets, follow below. If you are not adding OPTIONAL Pockets skip to step 2 to add the OPTIONAL Key Ring Tab. If not adding the OPTIONAL Key Ring Tab, skip to step 3.

Place Main Pocket A and Main Pocket B right sides together, matching the short side. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam allowance open. 

NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Main Pocket. 

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the Pocket Lining A and B.

NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Pocket Lining.

Place the Main and Pocket Lining right sides together, matching the top edge. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you are adding OPTIONAL elastic, follow below. If you are not adding OPTIONAL elastic, skip to step 1.10.

NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Pocket.

OPTIONAL Elastic – Find and mark the quarter points of the elastic and Pocket.

Pin the elastic at the top edge in the center and at each end. 

TIP – Before using your elastic, exercise it first.  Steaming it can also help prepare it for use and help maintain its shape. 

Stretch and relax the elastic a few times before pinning.

Pin the quarter points of the elastic to the Pocket quarter points.

Stitch elastic within the ½ inch seam allowance sewn in step 1.6.

Turn the Pocket right sides out. Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch ⅛ inch from the top edge.

NOTE – If using elastic in the seam, be sure to stretch the elastic while topstitching to achieve a smooth stitch line. 

Align the bottom edge of Main and Pocket Lining. Pin.

Baste along bottom edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

The Pocket will now be folded and pressed into box pleats as marked in the preparation step. If the pleats haven’t been marked on the bottom edge of the Pocket yet, do so now.

Each box pleat will use a set of four markings to create the pleat.

Starting on the left side, fold the Pocket with the right sides of the main fabric together at the first pleat marking.

NOTE – Check that the Pocket piece is the right way up. 

Press from the bottom edge, pressing as far up as desired.

Fold the Pocket at the next pleat marking, wrong sides of main fabric together.

Press from the bottom edge, pressing as far up as desired.

Fold the Pocket, wrong sides of main fabric together at the following pleat marking. 

Press from the bottom edge, pressing as far up as desired.

Repeat steps 1.14 to 1.19 using the pattern markings along the bottom edge to press all pleats.

LARGE BAG – A total of seven pleats will be created.

SMALL BAG – A total of four pleats will be created.

Lay the Side Lining right side up. Place the Pocket Lining right sides together, matching the bottom edge. Pin.

Baste the bottom edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Pin the Pocket to the Side Lining in between the first and second box pleat.

Stitch from the bottom to the top edge of the Pocket.

Stitch from the bottom to the top edge of the Pocket.

OPTIONAL Second Pocket – If you are adding another Pocket, repeat steps 1.1 to 1.25 with the second Pocket A and B pieces.

Follow below if adding the OPTIONAL Key Ring Tab.

If not adding the OPTIONAL Key Ring Tab, skip to step 3. 

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, please use this. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here.

Fold the Key Ring Tab in half, wrong sides together. Press. 

Open the Key Ring Tab and fold the raw edges of each long side to meet in the middle and press.

Fold it in half, so that the raw edges are now enclosed in the middle and pre4ss.

Topstitch down each of the long edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Feed the Key Ring Tab through the ring. Fold the Tab with wrong sides together, over the ring by approximately 1.5 inches. 

NOTE – A swivel clasp closure is shown in the pictures. However, you can use the hardware that will work best for you.

Fold the short end of the Tab under with the raw edges inside, pointed toward the hardware. Stitch across the Key Ring Tab ½ inch down from the swivel clasp. Stitch back and forth to secure it.

TIP – Stitch as close to the ring as you can. This will help prevent it from sliding around on the Key Ring Tab.

TIP – Using a zipper foot here will enable you to stitch closer to the ring.

Baste the two layers of raw edges together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final bag, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Place the Key Ring Tab onto the right side of the Side Lining, 3 inches from the top edge. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the Side Lining pieces right sides together, matching one short side edge. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the second short side. 

Find and mark the center of each Side Lining piece.

Find and mark the center of the Bottom Lining.

Place the Bottom Lining onto the Sides, right sides together, matching centers. Pin.

Match the Side Lining side seams to the Bottom curved ends. Pin.

Continue pinning in between, creating a smooth curve along the bottom of the bag.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam as sewn. Then press toward the bag. 

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.10 with the Main Side and Main Bottom pieces.

Fold top edge of the Main Bag ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Pin.

Repeat step 4.1 with the Bag Lining. 

Place the Bag Lining inside the Main Bag, wrong sides together.

Matching seams and centers, pin the Main and Lining together along the top edge.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the top edge, all the way around the Bag. 

TIP – Use a walking foot and stitch slowly so your stitches are even and neat all the way around the edge.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch ¼ inch away from the first topstitch line.

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, install the four grommets onto each side of the bag at the pattern markings. 

You can attach a plain or braided rope onto each side of the bag. If you would like a reef knot in your handle, skip to step 6. Alternatively, follow below.

PLAIN HANDLE – Tie a knot in the end of the Rope. Skip to step 5.3.

BRAIDED HANDLE – Tie three Ropes together into a knot on one end. 

NOTE – The length needed will vary depending on how tightly you braid. We recommend cutting 2-3x the length of rope, then cutting to your desired length

Braid the length of the ropes, leaving room to tie a knot.

Starting from the outside of the bag, slide the Handle through one grommet, then back to the outside through the other grommet on the same side of the bag. 

Tie a knot in the end of the Handle.

TIP – Trim the ends so they are all even. Fray the ends if desired.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 for the second Handle.

Your Everything Beach Bag is finished!

You can add a reef knot to a plain or braided Handle. If you are braiding your rope, follow below. If you are using a plain rope, skip to step 6.2. 

BRAIDED HANDLE – Braid the length of the ropes, leaving room to tie a knot.

TIP – Secure the ends temporarily with a hair tie or rubber band until ready to knot.

NOTE – The length needed will vary depending on how tightly you braid. We recommend cutting 2-3x the length of rope, then cutting to your desired length.

PLAIN OR BRAIDED OPTION: Fold one length of the Handle in half, creating a loop at the center.

Repeat for the second length of Handle.

Slide the ends of the second Handle through the loop created by the first.

While pulling the second Handle, also slide ends of the first Handle through the loop created by the second.

Continue pulling each length of Handle until completely tightened. 

Slide the Handle ends from inside the Bag to the outside, through the grommet. 

Tie a knot to secure. 

Slide the second set of Handle ends through the second grommet on the same side of the bag. 

Tie a knot to secure.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.9 for the second set of rope Handles. 

Your Everything Beach Bag is finished!