Toy Mat & Storage Bin

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

TIP – If using a disappearing ink pen, transfer the pattern markings after applying the interfacing.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply the fusible fleece interfacing onto the wrong side of Main and Lining Top, Bottom, Bin Side, Top Side, and Back Tab pieces.

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing onto the wrong side of Back Tabs.

OPTIONAL

Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you will need to create double fold binding to bind the inside raw edges of the bin.

Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Zip Pocket, skip to step 2. For the Zip Pocket, follow below.

Place the hook tape to the marking on a Main Pocket piece. Pin.

Stitch all the way around the hook tape.

Find and mark the center point of both the Main Pocket and Lining Pocket long edges.

Also find and mark the center of the zipper.

Lay the Main Pocket right side up. Place the zipper right side down, aligning the center points with the right sides together (zipper teeth facing towards the Main Pocket).

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tap to secure the zipper.

Place the Pocket Lining with the right side down on top of the zipper, matching the center points. Pin.

The zipper will now be sandwiched between the Main Pocket and the Pocket Lining.

Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, stitch together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Main Pocket and Pocket Lining over so wrong sides of the Main and Lining are facing. Press.

OPTIONAL: Topstitch along the zipper tape using a ⅛ inch seam allowance from the stitched fabric edge.

Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.7 for the other side of the zipper.

Open the zipper.

Open each side of the Pocket.

Place both Main Pockets right sides together, then place both sides of the Pocket Lining right sides together. The zipper seam allowance should be pushed towards lining. Pin the Pocket all the way around the raw edges.

NOTE – Double check that you have opened the zipper. It is very important, as you will not be able to turn the pocket right side out if the zipper is closed.
1.9
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave a 2-inch gap on

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave a 2-inch gap on the bottom edge of the lining for turning.

Clip the corners to reduce the bulk. Make little snips into the seam allowance at the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

TIP – Use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance all the way around the Pocket.

Turn Pocket right side out and press the seams.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Stitch the gap on the Lining closed using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, backstitching on both ends.

Push the Lining into Pocket.

If you are not adding the Top Handle, skip to step 3, otherwise follow below.

Fold the Top Handle in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin along the long raw edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn right sides out and press the seam.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch along one or two of the long edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Fold the Main Top in half and mark the center points.

Place Top Handle on the right side of Main Top with the right side facing up, and pin.

Baste in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Fold the end of the Side Handles webbing over by ¼ inch. Then again by ¼ inch. Pin or clip in place.

Stitch along the folded edge.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.2 on the other end of the webbing.

Measure 2 ½ inches from each end and mark with a pin.

Fold the webbing in half lengthwise and pin, only between the markings.

Stitch between the pins using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Backstitching on both ends.

Place the Side Handle on the right side of the Main Bin at the pattern markings. Pin.

For the ends of the Handles, stitch in place, making a 1-inch rectangle ¼ inch from the edge of each end. Stitch diagonally across to make a X in the middle for additional strength.

NOTE – This little rectangle gives more strength to the Handle than just stitching or basting across the edge. Although it will be visible in the final Storage Bin, I highly recommend going for the stronger option and doing the rectangle!

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.8 to the second Side Handle piece.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold Main Bin Side in half and serge the short edges right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Find the quarter points on the long edge of the Main Bin Side and the Main Bottom. Aligning the quarter points, serge them right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the Bin Side Lining and Bottom Lining. Turn Main Bin right sides out.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Fold the Main Bin Side in half right sides together and pin the short side.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Find and mark the quarter points on the long edge.

Find and mark the quarter points of the Main Bottom.

Aligning the quarter points, pin the Main Bin Side and Main Bottom right sides together. Ease the long edge of Main Bin Side to Main Bottom.

TIP – I recommend using a lot of pins to hold the fabrics securely together. You can use clips if you prefer, but pins are more helpful along the circle.

TIP – Ease the Main Bin Side onto the Main Bottom at the seam allowance, not the raw edge. This will help the pieces fit together easier.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn right sides out.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.6 with Bin Side Lining and Bin Bottom Lining pieces to create the lining.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the three Border pieces together, joining the short edges to make one long Border. To attach the eyelets and cord, follow steps 5.5 to 5.12. Fold the Border in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Starting from the end of the straight edge, pin, then serge around the curved edge of the Toy Mat. OPTIONAL: If you are adding the OPTIONAL pocket, pin and stitch the loop tape (fuzzy side) to the Toy Mat at the pattern markings.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Place two Toy Mat Borders right sides together, matching the short ends. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to attach the third Border to the others, so you will have one long Border.

NOTE – Double check that your Border is long enough for the Toy Mat (depending on the width of your fabric, you may need to add an extra Border).

Fold the Border in half widthwise and pin the center point.

Measure 15 inches from the center point in both directions and mark each point. These will be the placement for 2 of the eyelets. Measure 8 inches further from each point (23 inches from the center point) and mark each point for the next 2 eyelets.

With the right side of the fabric facing up, measure 2 inches from the left of the long raw edge of your Border, this is where the middle of your eyelets should be.

Using the manufacturer’s instructions install each of the four eyelets.

TIP – Add a piece of interfacing at the back of the fabric where the eyelets go. Hand stitch/Fuse it in place. This will reinforce fabric and add life to the Toy Mat.

Place cord on the wrong side of the Border piece and pin it to the short edge. The cord is longer than the Border, so you should leave some extra length at the end of the Border.

Thread cord through the first eyelet, so it sits on the outside or right side of the fabric.

Thread the cord through the second eyelet back towards the wrong side of the fabric.

Repeat steps 5.10 to 5.11 to thread the cord through the third eyelet, bringing the cord to the right side of the fabric and then back down through the fourth eyelet so it is back on the wrong side of the fabric.

Bring the cord all the way to the end of the Border on the opposite side from where you started and pin it to the short edge.

Fold the Border in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Make sure the cord is inside the Border.

Place the Border onto the curved edge of the Toy Mat. Pin only to the curved edge.

Stitch all along the pinned edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Be careful not to catch the cord into the seam.

OPTIONAL Bias Binding:
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias binding as follows:

Open out the fold on one side of your bias binding.

Align the fold on the right side of your bias binding with the seam on the side of the Mat that has the Border on it. Keep the fold of the bias binding aligned with the seam.

Pin the bias binding all the way along the seam line of the border.

Trim the excess bias tape.

Stitch along the fold on the bias binding. Your stitching should be directly on top of the seam.

Trim the extra seam allowance. Be careful not to trim your bias binding.

Fold the bias over the seam and pin to enclose all raw edges.

Edge stitch along the bias binding, making sure not to catch the border under your stitches. Press the covered seam allowance.

OPTIONAL: If you are adding the OPTIONAL Pocket, pin and stitch the loop tape (fuzzy side) to the Toy Mat at the markings.

Fold one long edge of the Main Back Tab ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.

Fold ¼ inch again and press.

Edge stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 for the other long edge of the Main Back Tab.

Place the Main Back Tab onto the Main Top with the right sides together and baste using a scant ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for Back Tab Lining and baste it onto the Top Lining with the right sides together.

Fold the Main Top Side in half with the right sides together and pin the short side.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Find and mark the quarter points on the Main Top, Top Lining, and both edges of Top Side pieces.

NOTE – One of the quarter points on the Main Top and Top Lining should be at the middle of the Back Tab. This quarter point will be aligned with the quarter point at the seam on the Main Top Side.

Aligning the quarter points, pin the Main Top and Main Top Side with the right sides together. Ease the long straight edge of Main Top Side to Main Top.

TIP – I recommend using lots of pins to hold the fabrics securely together. You can use clips if you prefer, but pins are more helpful along the circle.

TIP – Ease the Main Bin onto the Main Bottom at the seam allowance, not the raw edge. This will help the pieces fit together easier.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 6.8 to 6.9 to attach Main Top Side to other edge of Top Lining (right sides together), leave a 2 to 3-inch gap for turning right side out.

NOTE – Check to make sure the Main Back Tab and Back Lining Tab are aligned to the seam on the Top Side.

Turn right sides out.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the gap closed.

Fold your fabric under by ½ inch. You will be stitching along this folded edge. Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.

Push your needle up from the inside of the headband to the outside, through one of the folds, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

NOTE – The pictures used are from a different pattern, however, the techniques are the same.

Repeat step 6.12 to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

Push the Lining into Main so the Top will get its final form

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the folded straight edge of the Top using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Find the center point of the short edge of the Toy Mat. Pin.

With right sides together align the center point of the Toy Mat to the side seam of the Bin Side Lining. Pin.

NOTE – The Toy Mat side is slightly shorter than Bin Side Lining. They do not need to be eased together.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Stitch over the ends of the cord 3 to 4 times to secure it.

Fold the raw edge on both of the Back Tabs over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. This will create a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet.

Place both Back Tab pieces wrong sides together. Pin them to the Main Bin Side at the pattern marking (3 ½ inches from the Main Bin Side top raw edge).

Top stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – To make the seam more secure, I recommend stitching back and forth 3 to 4 times over this seam. Also stitch extra backstitches on both ends.

Fold the top raw edges of Main Bin Side and Bin Side Lining over to the wrong side by ½ inch and press, creating a memory hem.

NOTE – The basting stitch should be in the memory hem, invisible from the right side of Bin Side Lining.

Using the ‘Drop-in’ method, place the Bin Side Lining into Main Bin Side.

NOTE – Align the side seams on Main Bin and Bin Lining.

Pin the top folded edges.

Topstitch all the way around using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Be careful, not to catch the Top or Back Tabs into the seam.

Your Toy May and Storage Bin is finished!