Tulle Skirt

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric. Specifically, there is a marking on the center back seam which denotes the bottom of the zip. Make sure to mark this on your fabric using a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

Zipper Length

Shorten your zipper if necessary, to match the zipper length of 9 inches. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zip to stop the zipper going below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. Stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zip to the other.

Interfacing

Apply iron-on interfacing to the Front and Back Waistband Lining pieces, using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the waist panels won’t fit properly when you try to sew them onto the waistband. Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting while sewing the rest of the garment, before attaching it to the waist panels.

Staystitch ¼ inch from the edge. If you haven’t done staystitching before, it is a regular length stitch, and the goal is to stop the top edge from stretching during sewing. Make sure to stay inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed, and we don’t want them visible in the final garment.

Staystitch the Front Lining piece at the waist, starting at the center stitching out towards each side seam, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the Back Lining pieces at the waist following the direction of the arrows.

The lining is made of one front and 2 back pieces. Follow the order below to assemble the pieces together. The back panels are not sewn together into a circle until after the zipper is sewn in. Take care while sewing to not pull or stretch the lining along the top edges or it will not fit onto the waistband later on.

NOTE – You may notice that the lining side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop/lengthen naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the bias than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Sew as normal, be careful to not stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the skirt is complete, then hang the skirt from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the lining is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the lining panels right sides together and stitch the back panels to either side of the front panel. Leave the center back seam open. Skip to step 3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the lining panels together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. 

With the wrong sides together (right sides facing outwards), pin a back piece to one side of a front piece.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Start stitching at the top of the pieces and stitch down the side seam. As these side seams are on the bias, they can stretch and this ensures the waist remains in the correct place just in case.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Press the seam towards the back lining piece.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to stitch the other back piece to the other side of the front piece using a French seam.

NOTE – The center back panels are not sewn together until after the zipper is sewn.

NOTE – Check the lining against the pattern pieces.  Depending on the fabric used, it can grow while sewing, even with staystitching.  Trim to the correct width if needed.  If it grows in future steps, it will be checked in the final step before adding the waistband.  

You will be attaching all four rectangle pieces together, along the shorter edges, using either a regular seam or a French seam. This long piece will then be gathered and attached to the lining. This will form the first layer of tulle. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge four of the pieces of tulle, right sides together, along their short side seam edges. Then skip to step 4.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

If you are using very see-through tulle, we would recommend using a regular seam. If you are using opaquer (fabric that is less see through) tulle, or any other woven fabric which frays, we would recommend using a French Seam.

For the FRENCH SEAM option – Skip to step 3.2.

For the REGULAR SEAM option – Place two pieces of tulle, right sides together, and stitch along their short side seam edges using a ½ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance neatly to approximately half the width. 

Repeat with the next two pieces so that you have four pieces stitched together in a long strip. Skip to step 4.1.

NOTE – Some tulle does not have a right and wrong side, just make sure you are attaching the short side seams (not the top or bottom).

TIP – If you find your stitches pull when sewing the tulle, try lengthening your stitch.

FRENCH SEAMS – With wrong sides together (right sides facing up), pin two of your tulle rectangles together at one short side.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press, using a very low setting or pressing cloth, as flat as you can. Try to make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. 

Press.

This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 3.2 to 3.5 for the second and third rectangle until you have one long rectangular piece. You will be joining 3 edges.

RUFFLER FOOT – If you have a ruffler foot, use this now to gather the top edge of one layer of the tulle to the top waistband edge of the lining. Skip to step 5.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to gather the tulle to fit the top of the skirt at the waistband and stitch it to the waistband using a straight stitch. Follow along below.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top of one of the layers of tulle from side seam to side seam.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

When doing the rows of gatherings stitches, I like to start at one seam and sew to the next seam. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo). Start stitching again just after the side seam, and stitch around to the next seam. 

You should now have two rows of gathering stitches all the way along the top of your tulle, each of which run from side seam to side seam. So, there will be four sections of gathering stitches.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!

Fold your Front Lining piece in half vertically to find the center front. Place a pin on the top raw edge to mark this center front.

Lay your lining right side facing up. Place your tulle right side facing up on top of the lining, matching up the top raw edges. Both should be facing right sides up.

We are now going to gather the tulle to fit the lining and pin it in place. The best way I find to do this is in quarters. The tulle is in four pieces so these are our quarters for this. The lining quarters are marked by the side seams and the center front you just marked in step 4.2. 

Pin the tulle to the lining at each of the quarter points.

Starting at a side seam, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the skirt. Gather the tulle all the way across the quarter you are working on until the tulle in that section fits the lining.

Then move on to the next quarter and so on until the whole strip of tulle has been gathered and now fits the lining.

Spread the gathering out gently with your fingers so it looks evenly gathered.

Baste the tulle to the lining using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – If you haven’t done basting before, it is a long loose stitch (similar to gathering stitches). The idea is that you are stitching inside the seam allowance and will remove the stitches later (or leave them there and they’ll be hidden inside the garment). You can use a regular stitch as an alternative, but make sure you use only a ¼ inch seam allowance, so it is hidden inside the garment.

Gently remove the gathering stitches by pulling on the bobbin threads until they are removed.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge 4 of the pieces of tulle right sides together along their short side seam edges. Then skip to step 5.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

For the FRENCH SEAM option – Repeat steps 3.2 to 3.5 to do French Seams to stitch the last four remaining rectangles of tulle together along their short edges into one long strip.

For the REGULAR SEAM option – Place four pieces of tulle right sides together and stitch along the short side seams so they form one long strip. Trim each seam allowance to approximately half its width. 

Follow steps 4.1 – 4.6 to gather and baste your second layer of tulle to the top raw edge of the lining.

Treat the first layer of tulle as part of the lining for now. You will just be gathering the second layer of tulle and attaching it directly on top. The skirt should now be layered as follows: lining, first layer of tulle, second layer of tulle.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge 4 of the pieces of tulle right sides together along their short side seam edges. Then skip to step 6.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

For the FRENCH SEAM option – Repeat steps 3.2 to 3.5 to do French Seams to stitch the last four remaining rectangles of tulle together along their short edges into one long strip.

For the REGULAR SEAM option – Place four pieces of tulle right sides together and stitch along the short side seams so they form one long strip. Trim each seam allowance to approximately half its width. 

Follow steps 4.1 – 4.6 to gather and baste the third layer of tulle to the top raw edge of the lining.

The skirt should now be layered as follows: lining, first layer of tulle, second layer of tulle, third layer of tulle.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the Back Waistband pieces to either side of the Front Waistband piece using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the Lining Back Waistbands to the Lining Front Waistband. Then continue to step 7.4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Place a Back Waistband piece onto the Front Waistband, right sides together, matching the curved edges. Pin on the shaped short end. Stitch together using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam open.

NOTE – The straight edge of the Back Waistband is the center back seam. The images shown are a straight waistband, however this Waistband curves slightly at the bottom edge.

Repeat step 7.1 to attach the other Back Waistband to the other side of the Front Waistband.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 for the Lining Waistband (interfaced) pieces.

Fold the slightly curved long edge of the Lining Waistband ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Pin the Main Waistband and Lining Waistband, right sides together, along the straight top edge and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seam allowance open.

Pin the Waistband to the top of the skirt and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Using a walking foot may help stitch through all the layers.

NOTE – From here on, we show two skirts in the photographs, one with tulle and one without. The reason for both is due to the quantity of tulle, the skirt without tulle is much clearer and easier to see the construction on. Please refer to both interchangeably.

Open the waistband and press the seam allowance up toward the waistband.

We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the skirt. Try it on, clip or pin the waistband edges together using a ½ inch seam allowance and then check the fit.

• If you measure at the top of your size range, the skirt should fit exactly. 
• If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the back seam before continuing. 
• If it fits as you wish, continue. 
• If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check that you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge both back edges of the center back skirts. Do not remove any seam allowance, just serge to finish. Then continue with step 8.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zip. If you use a regular zip, or don’t install the invisible zip correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished skirt will be too big. To help with this, we’ve made a short video. 

Read through the steps below, then watch the video here.

Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.

Unzip your invisible zipper and place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.

When the zipper is closed the teeth of the zipper will curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew.

I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat.

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zipper a little to make it easier to attach.

For each center back seam, pin all layers of tulle to the lining at the raw edge. This is just to hold it together right next to the zipper. 

Pin from the top of the side seam, all the way down the side seam to approximately 3 inches from the hem.

With wrong sides facing up, press a ½ inch seam allowance towards the wrong side on the waistband and lining. 

Ideally you want to press this all the way from the top edge of the waistband lining, through the waistband and down to just past the bottom of the zipper marking. However, depending on how thick your tulle is (and what type of fabric you used for the tulle layer), you may find this quite hard to press. Here I was only able to press the waistband lining and waistband, and about 1 inch down into the skirt lining. 

TIP – As this is quite a few layers of fabric, clip or pin it in place

Repeat for the other side of the skirt.

With your skirt right sides facing up, flip your waistband lining up out of the way. You’ll be attaching the zip along the waistband and skirt (not the waistband lining).

Unfold the seam allowance you just pressed. With the right zipper tape on the left side of the skirt, right sides together (zipper teeth facing in towards your body), line up the zipper with the top of the skirt waistband. Match the zipper stop to the top of the seam where the waistband and waistband lining join. Pin in place. The zipper teeth should line up exactly along the seam allowance fold you just pressed in step 8.3.

TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zipper on the correct side of the skirt, and that they are facing right sides together. 

Check that the tulle hasn’t moved, and all layers are caught in the seam allowance.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can.  

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zipper to the skirt, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper to as close to the zipper pull as you can.

Close the zipper. You will then be able to check your stitches are correct and that the zipper can close easily.

Place a pin in the zipper tape where the waistband meets the skirt and at the end of the zipper where your stitching ends. This will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when you sew it to the opposite side of the skirt.

Open the zipper. Repeat steps 8.4 to 8.5 with the left zipper tape on the right side of the skirt.

It may feel awkward but still stitch from the top of the skirt downwards. It helps ensure the zipper doesn’t travel or move as you are sewing.

Trim the excess off the top of the zipper.

TIP – Check you can close your zipper properly before moving onto the next step. Take care not to catch any tulle in the zipper.

Close the zipper and make sure that it is not visible from the right side. If there is a gap that shows your zipper, you can sew another line of stitching closer to the zipper teeth. You do not need to remove your first line of stitching.

The zipper stop should align perfectly with the top of the waistband. The waistband lining will extend up above this for now until we turn it down later.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, you will have already serged the back edges, so they are finished. Place the skirt right sides together, starting at the hem, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back as close to the zipper as you can. Then, skip to step 10.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do a French seam to stitch the skirt back together below the zipper. It’s slightly different to the previous French seam as we have to first detach the seam allowance from the zipper. Follow along below.

Clip into each side of the seam allowance, just under where the zipper stitching ends. 

TIP – You want to clip as close to the stitching and fold as possible without cutting into it. Aim for approximately 1 – 2mm below the stitching and snip approximately 1 – 2mm away from the fold. If you snip too far, you will have a hole so err on the side of caution. You can always come back and snip a little more if you find later your seam isn’t lying flat.

We will now start our French seam. 

From here it is the same as the side seams but starting from just below the zipper. 

Bring the seam allowance to the right side of the skirt and pin them together with the wrong sides together (right sides outwards). Make sure to catch all layers of tulle in your seam. 

You can keep the tulle in the seam all the way to the bottom if you have fraying fabric. However, what we would recommend instead is to let the tulle start coming out of the seam from about 3 inches before the hem (where the horizontal pin is in the closeup photo to the left), so that you are left with just the lining in the hem on the last 1 ½ inches. That way when the hem is sewn later, the lining will be free and easily turned under.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends.

Trim the seam allowances in half to neaten the seam.

If you find your tulle is creating quite a bit of bulk, trim it slightly shorter than the lining seam allowance.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge and press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam). 

TIP – You want to start stitching as close to the bottom of the zipper stitching as possible. Use your zipper foot so you can get as close as possible. The goal is to make the seam look continuous from the zipper downwards while wearing the finished garment.

Press the seam to the side.

Lift the zipper tape up and out of the way near the waistband so you can see the raw edge of the back seam allowance underneath.

Clip halfway into the seam allowance of the main waistband approximately ½ inch above where the waistband joins the skirt. This is so the seam allowance below this spot can be turned under on the next step. 

The blue line in the photo is where you snip. The pink line is the existing stitching of where the waistband meets the skirt. You should be approximately ½ inch above this, and you only need to snip ½ way into the seam allowance.

Trim the tulle layers of the seam allowance only to ¼ inch wide.

When you reach the waistband seam, just clip as close to the seam as you can.

Fold the seam allowance on the side of the zipper over on itself, on top of the tulle, so the raw edge is hidden between the zipper and the seam allowance, pin the seam allowance to the zipper tape and press.

The goal here is to hide the raw edges so that the inside of the skirt is completely finished.

The remaining tulle seam allowance should be tucked inside the fold so it is now hidden.

This is a very narrow section of seam allowance, so this can be a bit tricky. If you have them, pin using dressmakers pins or glass head pins (not plastic head pins). That way you can press with the pins in place to make it easier. Make sure to put a pressing cloth or clean tea towel over the pins before pressing so they don’t mark your iron.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape. You want to stitch as close to the folded edge as possible.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.4 for the other side of the zipper.

Flip the Waistband Lining over to the wrong side of the skirt and pin. Make sure the seam allowance at each short end is tucked under. The Waistband should be wrong side to wrong side together.

Tuck the top of the zipper tape into the lining so it is hidden. 

All raw edges at the Waistband should now be neatly tucked away inside and the zipper should go all the way to the top of the waistband.

TIP – The folded edge of the Lining should be just below the seam where the waistband attaches to the skirt. That way when you do step 11.2 you will catch the waistband on both sides when you sew. I overlapped mine approximately ⅛ inch to do this.

From the right side of the skirt, stitch along the seam where the waistband attaches to the skirt. This is called ‘stitching in the ditch’.

If you haven’t done this before stitching in the ditch is when you sew exactly on top of a previous seam. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment and you will catch the other side of the waistband in your stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden.

Stitch slowly and hold the waistband and fabric flat on either side of the presser foot to help you get the stitch right into the crease, so it is not visible on the finished skirt. Lift the skirt up occasionally and check you are catching the other side of the waistband in your stitching. 

When you have finished, check if the short ends are also secure. If not, stitch down these approximately ¼ inch from the edge using your zipper foot to secure all raw edges inside.

TIP – If you’ve used a contrasting fabric for your waistband lining, change your bobbin thread to match it before stitching.

TIP – Use a thread in your needle that matches the skirt and aim for a tiny fraction onto the skirt instead of the waistband and it usually ends up fairly invisible.

ALTERNATIVE – If you would prefer, you can topstitch on the actual waistband (approximately ⅛ inch from the crease). Your stitching will be more visible but it’s definitely easier.

FIT CHECK – Try the skirt on and check whether the finished length is what you would like. The finished hem will take 1 inch off the length. Make any adjustments you wish and continue.

SERGER OVERLOCKER – Serge a ½ inch seam allowance. Then turn the hem under ½ inch, press and topstitch in place.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Follow the instructions below:

FRAYING TULLE – If you used a fabric such as chiffon for your tulle layers, you may find it frays with washing and wearing and will need to be finished. For this, skip to step 12.2.

NON FRAY TULLE – Most tulles do not fray and the raw edges will not need finishing. 

If you are happy with the length of the tulle, make sure the raw edges are neat.

If you would like the tulle shorter, trim this to your desired length now.

If you would like to create a feature along the bottom of the tulle, either stitch a ribbon or trim to the bottom edge or do a roll hem with a contrasting thread. You can add this on just the top layer or tulle, or all layers of tulle. 

Skip to step 12.3.

If you have fraying tulle, either roll hem the bottom edge, or turn it under ¼ inch twice, press and stitch in place.

Check you are happy with the length of the lining. We are about to finish it using a 1 inch hem. If you wish it to be shorter, trim this now.

Turn the lining hem under ½ inch all the way around and press.

Turn the hem under another ½ inch all the way around (so the raw edges are hidden inside) and press. Then stitch approximately ½ inch from bottom folded edge to hold the hem up. 

TIP – You want your stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the skirt as much as possible, so it looks nice and neat from the outside. To do this, use your presser foot or a marking on your foot plate on your sewing machine to line up your fabric so you get a nice even stitch all the way around.