Twist Strap Outfit

Twist Strap Outfit 

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The V-neck Twist Strap Outfit is a quick and easy sew with minimal seams. The bodice is loose fitting with an elasticated waist, center front ruching, twisted back straps and draping under the armhole and at the back cowl. Create a full length or shorts jumpsuit or a mid-thigh or knee dress version – making it a super comfy and relaxed wear. Add optional back ties to make it easier to get on and off. The bodice edges are left raw with no need for hemming.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

This is a loose fitting outfit with a very forgiving fit. The gathered front bodice and the drape of the back cowl create a very flattering shape. The jumpsuit has no side seams.

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – Choose your size based on your hip measurements from the size chart and finished measurements. The garment is more fitted at the hips, especially in the back.
• Adjusting Height – The outfit is drafted for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your model is taller/shorter, you will need to add/remove length in three places if needed:
  • BODICE: Halfway through the armscye and at the waistline. 
  • JUMPSUIT: Everyone varies in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. 
  • We suggest adding/removing length across the front and back rise. Measure your front and back rise and compare it to the finished measurements above.  
  • Measure from your crotch to the crease at the back of your knee. Take this measurement and draw a line through at the knee on the Trouser Leg pattern piece. Add/remove here. 
  • Measure from knee to ankle and adjust the pattern pieces here too.
  • Inseam – Before your muslin, it is a great idea to measure your inseam.  It is helpful to have a friend help you out with this.  Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of your leg.  The full length jumpsuit is intended to sit at the ankle, and the shorts length finish mid-thigh. Compare this measurement to the Inseam on the finished measurement chart to help make adjustments for height. 
    Follow this tutorial for any further jumpsuit fitting advice.
  • DRESS: Try your dress on your model if possible. Add/remove any excess fabric from the bottom ‘hem’ edge. The weight of your fabric will also affect how long your skirt is (e.g. a heavy knit will pull the fabric and make it longer). Once you remove some of the length, it will not be as heavy and will not hang as long. Trim only a small amount, try it on again, and if needed trim again until you are happy. 
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this pattern:
  • Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. 
  • Cut out the pattern piece and baste it together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
  • Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.  

Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. A lighter weight fabric will drape more than a heavier weight. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, viscose, stretch velour and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.

The edges of the bodice are intended to be left raw giving the best drape.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• ⅜ Knitted elastic – approximately 1.3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
• OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes 
• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, optional rotary cutter and mat, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Cutting Checklist: 

• Bodice – cut 1 on fold
• OPTIONAL Back Tie – cut 2
  • NOTE – This is required for the Jumpsuit, but optional for the Dress
• OPTIONAL Trouser Leg – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• OPTIONAL Skirt – cut 2 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ⅛ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches.

Sewing –

1. CENTER BACK WITHOUT BACK TIES – Lay the pattern piece flat, right side facing up. Starting on the left side, twist one strap over itself once, then twist it again, so that the center back seam is facing towards the center back, and the strap is now twisted. Repeat on the right side. Stitch the center back seam, right sides together.
2. CENTER BACK WITH BACK TIES – Fold Back Tie in half, right sides together. Stitch the long straight edge and the angled edge. Turn right sides out. Press. Stitch the Tie onto the center back seam of the Bodice, right sides together. Press. Repeat.
3. OPTION: GATHERED CENTER FRONT – Baste from the top edge to the notch on both center front seams. Gather to 2.75 inches. Stitch center front seam, right sides together.
4. OPTION: STITCHED SEAM ELASTIC CENTER FRONT – Pin Bodice together at center front seam, right sides together. Cut elastic to 2.75 inches. Stitch seam together, pulling the elastic to the marking.
5. OPTION: STITCHED SEAM PLUS ELASTIC CENTER FRONT – Stitch center front seam, right sides together. Cut elastic to 2.75 inches and stitch to seam.
6. SHOULDERS – Stitch the left shoulders, right sides together. Repeat for the right shoulder.
7. OPTIONAL SHORTS/TROUSER – Stitch inseam on both Legs. Place one Leg inside the other, right sides together. Stitch the rise. Turn out and press.
8. OPTIONAL SKIRT – Place Skirts, right sides together. Stitch side seams. Press. Bar tack at top and bottom to secure side seam.
9. ATTACHING THE BODICE – Mark quarter points and match Bodice to Skirt/Trousers. Overlap elastic by ½ inch and stitch together. Stitch elastic to Skirt/ Trousers. 
10. HEMMING TROUSERS – Fold hem ¾ inch and press. Fold again by 1 ¾ inches. Bar tack each side in place. Repeat for other Leg.

Congratulations, your Twist Strap Outfit is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rptwiststrapoutfit.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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