Vegetable Garden Felt Toys

NOTE

We recommend using embroidery floss for these hand stitches. Use two strands from a six-strand embroidery floss so when both strands are threaded through the needle and folded over, the two strands will become 4 strands.

A running stitch is a straight line of stitches created by pushing the needle and thread through the fabric without back stitching. These stitches can be far apart or closer together. This stitch will be seen on both side of your fabric.

Thread the needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

On the inside of one of the fabric pieces, put the needle through a tiny bit of fabric.

Pull the thread almost all the way to the knot. Stop pulling, split the thread close to the knot creating a gap then slip the needle through the gap.

Pull the thread taut. The thread should now be knotted to the fabric.

NOTE – Tying the thread to the fabric this way will prevent the knot from coming through the fabric as you stitch.

Put the needle through to the right side or underside of the fabric depending on which side of the fabric the needle needs to be on for the next step.

Backstitches are used for outlining or adding fine detail.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.

Push the needle back into the same hole as step 4.2, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.

Repeat steps 4.2 to 4.4 creating a length of backstitches as desired.

Blanket stitch is a versatile embroidery stitch that can be used for functional or decorative purposes.

Thread your needle and make knot at the tail end. Start by sending your needle up from the back. This should be done about 1/4″ in from the edge, or at the length you want your stitches to be.

To get the stitch anchored, poke your needle up from the back again, so that the needle comes out the top at the same spot where you started, creating a loop around the edge.

Send your needle under the loop stitch you just made. To do this, poke the needle under the stitch going sideways at the edge of the felt. This gets your thread anchored, but it is not a ‘real’ first stitch.

To start your first real blanket stitch, poke your needle down from the top. This should be about 1/4″ over from where the thread first came up, and about 1/4″ up from the edge. To complete your first stitch, bring your needle up from the back, and through the loop of thread.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 creating a length of blanket stitches as desired.

A running stitch is a straight line of stitches created by pushing the needle and thread through the fabric without back stitching. These stitches can be far apart or closer together. This stitch will be seen on both side of your fabric.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces.

From the inside of the fabric, push the needle to the underside of the fabric, pulling the thread all the way through the fabric.

Moving the needle about ⅛ inch to ¼ inch forward, insert the needle from the underside of the fabric and pull the thread to the right side.

Move the needle forward about ⅛ to ¼ inch and then put the needle back into the fabric at about the same distance, ⅛ to ¼ inch from where you brought the needle up.

TIP – Instead of stitching each Running Stitch individually, the stitches can be taken more than one at a time by weaving the needle in and out of the fabric. This makes Running Stitches quick to sew.

Repeat the stitches across until the desired length is reached.

A ladder stitch or invisible stitch is invaluable when sewing up the last little opening on newly sewn softies.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.

Push your needle up from the inside of the vegetable to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite side to create a stitch that is about ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

We use a whipstitch when sewing felt as it is an easy way to stitch flat seams, encasing the seam allowances in the stitching.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

TIP – To make the stitches even, mark your finger with lines ⅛ to ¼ inch apart. Use this to line up your stitches, matching the distance on your finger.

Put the needle through one of the pieces of the fabric so it comes out on the right side of the fabric about ⅛ to ¼ inch away from the edge. Then bring the needle over both pieces of fabric and insert it into the fabric ⅛ to ¼ inch from the edge. Pull the needle through to the underside of the fabric.

Move the needle back over both pieces of fabric and put the needle back into the fabric about ⅛ to ¼ inch away from where it came up. Be sure to go through both layers. Pull the needle all the way through to the wrong side of the fabric and pull the thread taut.

Repeat all the way around.

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

Beetroot Piece 4 – Fold Beetroot Piece 4 in half lengthwise, then pin along the long edge.

Place Beetroot Piece 3 on top of Beetroot Piece 4 lengthwise and stitch down the middle, through all three layers.

Beetroot Piece 2 – Hand stitch both Beetroot Piece 2 to the top of the Beetroot Piece 4, and stitch along the Beetroot Piece 2 to make a vein using the straight stitch on your machine or hand stitches.

Hand stitch down the long side of the Beetroot Piece 4 using a Blanket Stitch.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Beetroot – Place two Beetroot Piece 1 pieces right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 1.5 to 1.6 to create two more Beetroot Piece 1 sections.

You will have 3 Beetroot sections.

Open the Beetroot sections. Place two Beetroot sections right sides together. Pin and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the four-piece Beetroot section and place the last (two-piece) Beetroot section right sides together. Pin, then stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Pin the two raw edges right sides together, then stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving a gap for turning.

Turn the Beetroot right sides out and stuff firmly using a chopstick or blunt knitting needle.

Place the bottom of the Stem into the top of the Beetroot. Pin in place. Hand stitch using a Slip Stitch.

Follow the ‘Slip Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Fold the Broccoli Piece 1 in half lengthwise.

Using tailors chalk or disappearing pen, starting a ½ inch from the short edge, draw lines an inch from the raw edge of the long raw edge all the way to the folded edge. Continue drawing lines spaced a ½ inch from each other along the entire length of the Broccoli piece.

Starting from the folded edge, cut along each marking carefully through both layers. Stop cutting about 1 inch from the raw edge.

Turn the Broccoli Piece 1 inside out so the pen markings are hidden.

OPTIONAL: Stitch along bottom edge of Broccoli Piece 1 by matching if you want extra strength.

Starting at one end of the Broccoli Piece 1, start rolling the short edge, making sure it is tight and the edges are aligned.

Pin to secure edge and hand stitch with green embroidery floss using a Slip Stitch.

Follow the ‘Slip Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Carrot – Place two Carrot Piece 1 right sides together and sew down the long side from top to bottom using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the two pieces and place right sides together on top of the 3rd Carrot Piece 1.  Stitch down the long side from top to bottom.

Open the piece sewn in step 3.2 as much as you can. Turn horizontally and place under the presser foot of the sewing machine.

Sew “ring” lines across the Carrot on all three pieces.

TIP – We recommend at least three or four lines per Carrot.

Pin the two raw edges of Carrot right sides together and pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance from the bottom, leaving an about 1 ½ -inch gap for turning.

Turn the Carrot right side out.

Carrot Piece 2 and 3 – Layer Carrot Piece 2 and Carrot Piece 3 on top of each other. Carrot Piece 3 should be on the top.

Stitch together.

Place the Carrot Piece 3 into the Carrot. Pin.

Stitch the Leaves to the top of the Carrot.

Stuff the Carrot solidly. If needed, use a pointy blunt object such as a chopstick or knitting needle to stuff the Carrot.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the gap closed.

Follow the ‘Slipstitch’ directions in the Hand Stitching Instructions above.

Cauliflower Piece 2 – Place the two Cauliflower Piece 2 right sides together, and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Leave a 1 ½ inch-gap for turning.

Turn right sides out and stuff firmly using a blunt object (e.g., a chopstick).

Hand Stitch the gap closed using a Slip Stitch.

Follow the ‘Slipstitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

This will now be known as the Base.

Felt Balls – Prepare 12 felt balls and thread them onto the needle.  Push the needle through each one and then onto the next one until you have all 12 connected.

Move them until you are happy with their shape and sew them onto the Base.  Sew all the balls along the edge of the Base, just so they will not fall off when being played with.

Cauliflower Piece 1 – Embroider a ‘Running Stitch’ around the edge of each of the 5 Cauliflower Piece 1 pieces.  This will give the Cauliflower Piece 1 pieces a decorative touch and will crinkle the leaves to make them more realistic.

TIP – Instead of stitching each Running Stitch individually, the stitches can be taken more than one at a time by weaving the needle in and out of the fabric. This makes Running Stitches quick to sew.

Stitch all five Cauliflower Piece 1 onto the underside of the Base.

Create the top of the Leek Piece 1 fabrics (both green and white) by making different size cuts (1-2 inches long) into them.

Place the white felt on top of the green.

Align Leek Piece 2 on top of the white Leek Piece 1 Fabrics along the bottom and side edges so they line up evenly. Pin.

NOTE – Leek Piece 2 will be pinned only on one side, the other side will remain unpinned.

Stitch the pinned edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Starting at the short edge that has Leek Piece 2 attached, roll toward the other short edge creating a log shape.

Hand stitch along the long edge as you roll using a Blanket Stitch and white embroidery floss.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Roll all layers of the Leek towards yourself keeping the bottom edge even and tightly rolled.

Pin along the long edge and hand stitch using a Blanket Stitch and green embroidery floss.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Mushroom Piece 2 – Thread a needle with matching embroidery floss.

Starting at a short edge, roll up Mushroom Piece 2 very tightly and evenly. Pin.

Hand stitch using a Blanket Stitch along the opening to secure Mushroom Piece 2.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Mushroom Piece 1 – Place the two Mushroom Piece 1 right sides together. Pin.

Stitch around the curve by hand or sewing machine from bottom to top using a ¼ inch seam allowance.  Leave the bottom edge open.

Turn right sides out.

Using a gathering stitch on your machine or a taut Running Stitch if you hand stitch, sew along around the bottom of the mushroom top.

Follow the ‘Running Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Take a handful of stuffing and push it into the mushroom firmly, keep stuffing until you are happy with the shape.

Start to pull the gathering stitches closed. Put the Mushroom Piece 2 into the Mushroom Top and continue gathering. The Mushroom Top will start to gather closely to the Stalk.

Secure with a few strong stitches.

With the remaining thread sew the mushroom top to the stalk with Whipstitches.

Follow the ‘Whipstitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Onion Piece 1 – Place two Onion Piece 1 pieces right sides together. Pin.

Repeat with the other Onion Piece 1, so you will have three pairs of Onion Piece 1.

Stitch the pinned edge of each pair using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open two Onion Piece 1 sections. Place the sections right sides together.

Pin and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the four-piece Onion section and place the last (two-piece) Onion Piece 1 section on top.

Pin right sides together, then stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Pin the last two raw edges right sides together.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Leave the gap at the top for turning.

Onion Piece 2 – Place the Onion Piece 2 pieces into the Onion, keeping the flat bottom sticking out at the top. Stitch the bottom of each of the four Onion Piece 2 pieces to the top of the Onion.

Turn the Onion right sides out.

Stuff the Onion firmly.

Hand stitch the gap closed using a Slip Stitch.

Follow the ‘Slip Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Peas Piece 3 and 4 – Fold Peas Piece 4 in half lengthwise and pin Peas Piece 3 to the top of it.

Sew along Peas Piece 4 from bottom attaching the Pea Piece 3 at the top.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 with all Peas Piece 3 and Pea Piece 4 pieces.

Peas – Thread your needle with green embroidery thread. Take 3 green felt balls and hand stitch them together.

TIP – Threading through the center of each ball will hold them securely together.

Stitch the felt balls to the top of the Peas Piece 1.

Stitch along the top of both ends of Peas Piece 1 using a Blanket Stitch.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Peas Piece 2 – Fold the Peas Piece 2 in half.

Place the Peas Piece 1 top in between the Peas Piece 2 layers and hand stitch through all layers using a Blanket Stitch, to attach the Pea Piece 1 and Pea Piece 2 together.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

NOTE – The pieces will now be called Pea Pods

Repeat steps 8.3 to 8.6 with all Pea Pods.

Pea Piece 5 – Place both Peas Piece 5 pieces together. Insert the bottom of Peas Piece 4 in between the two pieces. Pin in place.

Secure the Peas Piece 4 pieces in places with a couple hand stitches.

Sew around the Soil pieces using a ‘Blanket Stitch’ for a decorative touch or topstitch around by machine using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Attach the completed Pea Pods to various parts of Peas Pod 4 pieces by small stitches through the top of the Pea Pod.

TIP – The plant will look much fuller if you use 3 Pea Pods per plant.

Pumpkin – Using a Running Stitch, stitch a ¼ inch away from the edge all the way around Pumpkin Piece 1.

Follow the ‘Running Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

TIP – Instead of stitching each running stitch individually, the stitches can be done multiple stitches at a time by weaving the needle in and out of the fabric. This makes it quicker to sew.

Pull the thread gently to gather the stitches together.

Stuff the Pumpkin until you are satisfied with the shape.

Gently pull the stitches, tightening the opening until it forms a circle.

Make 3-4 stitches back and forth across the opening to secure it. Make a knot and cut your thread.

Pumpkin Piece 2 – Place the two Pumpkin Piece 2 pieces together and hand stitch them together using a decorative Blanket Stitch. Leave the bottom edge open.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Stuff the top of the Pumpkin Piece 2 until it is firm.

Place Pumpkin Piece 2 onto Pumpkin Piece 1, then pin all the way around.

NOTE – Make sure the Pumpkin Stalk is spread out over the top of the Pumpkin and covers all the gaps and stitches you do not want to see.

Stitch using a Whipstitch around the Pumpkin Piece 2, attaching securely to the Pumpkin.

Follow the ‘Whipstitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

NOTE – The pieces will now be known as the Pumpkin.

OPTIONAL Pumpkin Piece 3 – Pumpkin Piece 3 is for decorative purposes only.

Turn the Pumpkin upside down. Position Pumpkin Piece 3 at the bottom center of the pumpkin. Pin. Using a decorative stitch (e.g. ‘Whipstitch’), attach it to the Pumpkin. Finish by hiding your thread underneath the felt circle.

Strawberries Piece 3 – Hand stitch each Strawberries Piece 3 to the pipe cleaner with a couple of stitches.

Strawberries – Fold Strawberries Piece 1 in half and stitch the straight edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn right side out.

Stuff a small handful into the Strawberries Piece 1, packing it in until it is firm.

Thread a needle with some red sewing thread and sew a Running Stitch around the top of Strawberries Piece 1.

Follow the ‘Running Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Pull the thread tightly and carefully and it will gather up the cone into a strawberry shape.  Add more stuffing if necessary.

Finish closing off the Strawberries Piece 1 by making sure the hole is closed and the stuffing will not fall out.

Add Strawberries Piece 2 on the top and hand stitch it in place.

TIP – Do not cut your thread as you can use it to attach the calyx to the top of the strawberry, and strawberry to Stem.

OPTIONAL Seeds – Thread your needle with yellow embroidery thread and embroider some seeds onto the strawberry. Start and finish your stitching under the leaf, so the knot will be hidden under it.

Hand stitch the Strawberries to the stems.

Strawberries Piece 4 – Place OPTIONAL Strawberries Piece 5 onto a Strawberries Piece 4 and attach it using a Whipstitch.

Follow the ‘Whipstitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Place the two Strawberries Piece 4 pieces right sides together. Stitch along both long edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leave top open.

Trim the seam allowance in half and clip the bottom corner to reduce the bulk.

Using a blunt object (e.g. a chopstick), turn right sides out.

Construction of plant – Bend the pipe cleaner over at the bottom and place it inside the Strawberries Piece 4 pocket made in steps 10.9 to 10.12.

Stuff Strawberries Piece 4 to the top and stitch the top securely with Blanket Stitch and embroidery floss for a decorative effect.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Sweetcorn Piece 2 – Pin two Sweetcorn Piece 2 right sides together and stitch the bottom curve using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn right sides out.

OPTIONAL – Add a little stuffing into the Sweetcorn Piece 2 to make the base of the Sweetcorn more stable.

Sweetcorn Piece 1 – Stitch a grid pattern onto both pieces of Sweetcorn Piece 1.

Pin both Sweetcorn Piece 1 pieces right sides together and stitch around the curve, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn right sides out and stuff until it is full.

Construction: You can hand stitch or alternatively glue (using a heat glue gun) the Sweetcorn Piece 1 to Sweetcorn Piece 2.

Hand stitching – Using small backstitches, hand stitch the Sweetcorn Piece 1 pieces to the Sweetcorn Piece 2. Start from the inside of the Sweetcorn Piece 2, so the knot at the end of your thread will be hidden.

Gluing – Switch on the hot glue gun.

Put glue on the inside of the Sweetcorn Piece 2 at the bottom, then add a little blob of glue on the bottom of the Sweetcorn Piece 1, and then press them together firmly without burning your fingers.

Tomato Piece 3 and Tomato Piece 4 – Hand stitch each Tomato Piece 3 to the pipe cleaner.

Then place the pipe cleaner into Tomato Piece 4, folding it in half lengthwise around the pipe cleaner. Stitch Tomato Piece 4 using a Whipstitch.

Follow the ‘Whipstitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Tomato – Place two Tomato Piece 1 pieces right sides together and pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 12.2 to 12.3 creating two more Tomato Piece 1 sections.

Now you have 3 Tomato Piece 1 sections, each is made of two Tomato Piece 1 pieces.

Open the Tomato Piece 1 sections.

Place two Tomato Piece 1 sections right sides together, pin and stitch, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the four-piece Tomato section and place the last (two-piece) Tomato Piece 1 section right sides together. Pin, then stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place two raw edges right sides together, and pin.

Then stitch leaving a gap for turning.

Turn the Tomato through the gap left in step 12.7, and stuff firmly.

Using a Slip Stitch, stitch the gap closed.

Follow the ‘Slip Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Hand stitch the Tomato Piece 2 onto the Tomato.

Hand stitch the Tomato onto the Tomato Piece 4.

Tomato Piece 5 – Stitch OPTIONAL Tomato Piece 6 onto a Tomato Piece 5.

Place two Tomato Piece 5 pieces right sides together. Stitch along both long edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving a gap on the top for turning.

Trim the seam allowance in half and clip the bottom corner to reduce the bulk.

Using a blunt object (e.g. a chopstick), turn the Soil Pocket right sides out and stuff.

Construction of plant – Bend the pipe cleaner over at the bottom and place it inside the Tomato Piece 5 made in step 12.12 to 12.15.

Stuff Tomato Piece 5 to the top and stitch the top securely with a Blanket Stitch and embroidery floss for a decorative effect.

Follow the ‘Blanket Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

The Crate can be made using your sewing machine or alternatively you can use a heat glue gun for attaching the pieces. For the Sewing Machine OPTION, follow below. For the Heat Glue Gun OPTION, skip to step 1.17.

Sewing Machine OPTION: Base – Lay the 6 Crate Piece 1 pieces parallel to each other. Place a Crate Piece 2 pieces onto the short edges of each Crate Piece 1 pieces. Pin.

Stitch ¼ inch from both edges along the long edges of the Crate Piece 2 pieces. Backstitch at both ends of the seams.

TIP – If your felt is thick, take your time and stitch slowly so the Strips will not move under the feet.

Repeat step 1.1 to 1.2 with the other Crate Piece 2 piece.

NOTE – These pieces will now be known as the Base.

Long Sides – Lay 3 Crate Piece 3 pieces parallel to each other. Place a Crate Piece 4 onto the short edges of each Crate Piece 3 pieces. Pin.

Stitch ¼ inch from both edges along the long edges of the Crate Piece 4. Backstitches at both ends of the seams.

NOTE – These will now be known as the Long Sides.

Repeat step 1.3 to 1.4 with the other Crate Piece 3 and Crate Piece 4 pieces.

Short Sides – Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.6 with Crate Piece 5 and Crate Piece 6 pieces.

NOTE – These will now be known as the Short Sides.

Before beginning to add the Crate Piece 7, Crate Piece 8, and Crate Piece 9 pieces, lay out the Long Sides, Short Sides and Base as pictured. This will help with assembly.

With tailor’s chalk draw a fold line at the 2-inch mark vertically down all 4 of the Crate Piece 9 pieces.

Fold the felt along the marked line to make a fold line.

Align one of long edges of the Long Side of the Crate to the Crate Piece 9 along the line drawn in step 1.8. Pin.

Stitch ¼ inch from both edges of the Long Side of the Crate. Backstitches at both ends of the seams.

Repeat with the second Long Side.

Repeat steps 1.8 to 1.9 for both Short Sides and the Crate Piece 8 pieces.

Place both Long Side pieces flat, then place the Base onto each Crate Piece 9 that were stitched onto the Long Sides in step 1.10. Pin.

Stitch ¼ inch from both edges of the Crate. Backstitches at both ends of the seams.

Repeat on the second Crate Piece 9 on the other side of the Base.

Repeat steps 1.11 to 1.12 with the Short Sides and Base, placing the Crate Piece 8 pieces on top of the Base.

Fold Crate Piece 7 in half vertically. Then align with the short edge of the Long Side. Pin in place, and stitch ¼ inch from both edges of the Crate. Backstitch at both ends of the seams.

With the Crate Piece 7 folded toward the Short Side of the Crate, fold the Short Side up and pin to Crate Piece 7.

Stitch ¼ inch from both edges of the Crate. Backstitch at both ends of the seams.

Repeat steps 1.14 and 1.15 with the other three corners of the Crate and Crate Piece 7 pieces.

Heat Glue Gun OPTION:

To use a hot blue gun for assembly, turn your glue gun on and prepare glue sticks.

Base – Lay the 6 Crate Piece 1 pieces parallel to each other. Place a Crate Piece 2 piece onto the short edge of each Crate Piece 1 piece. Glue each Crate Piece 1 piece onto Crate Piece 2. Press down securely.

Set aside to dry.

NOTE – These pieces will now be known as the Base.

Long Sides – Lay 3 Crate Piece 3 pieces parallel to each other. Place a Crate Piece 4 onto the short edges of each Crate Piece 3 pieces. Glue each Crate Piece 3 pieces to each Crate Piece 4 pieces. Press down securely.

Set aside to dry.

NOTE – These pieces will now be known as the Long Sides.

Repeat for the second Crate Piece 3 and Crate Piece 4 pieces.

Short Sides – Repeat steps 1.18 with Crate Piece 5 and Crate Piece 6 pieces.

NOTE – These pieces will now be known as the Short Sides.

Repeat for the second Crate Piece 5 and Crate Piece 6 pieces.

Before beginning to add the Crate Piece 7, Crate Piece 8, and Crate Piece 9 pieces, lay out the Long Sides, Short Sides, and Base as pictured. This will help with assembly.

With tailor’s chalk draw a fold line at the 2-inch mark vertically down all 4 of the Crate Piece 9 pieces.

Fold the felt along the marked line to make a fold line.

Align one of the long edges of the Long Side of the Crate to the Crate Piece 9 along the line drawn in step 1.21. Glue the Long Side to Crate Piece 4. Press down securely.

Set aside to dry.

TIP – To help the felt fold, use clothes pins to hold the fold as the glue is drying.

Repeat steps 1.21 to 1.22 for both Short Sides and the Crate Piece 8 pieces.

Place both Long Side pieces flat, then place the Base onto each Crate Piece 9 piece that was glued onto the Long Sides in step 1.22. Glue the Long Side to Crate Piece 7. Press down securely.

Set aside to dry.

TIP – To help the felt fold, use clothes pins to hold the fold as the glue is drying.

Repeat step 1.24 with the Short Sides and Base, placing the Crate Piece 8 pieces on top of the Base.

Fold Crate Piece 7 in half vertically. Then align with the short edge of the Long Side. Glue the Crate Piece 7 to the short edge of the Long Side. Press down securely.

Set aside to dry.

TIP – To help the felt fold, use clothes pins to hold the fold as the glue is drying.

With the Crate Piece 7 folded toward the Short Side of the Crate, fold the Short Side up. Glue the Short Side to Crate Piece 7. Press down securely.

Set aside to dry.

Repeat steps 1.26 to 1.27 with the other three corners of the Crate and Crate Piece 7 pieces.

Pin two Soil Cushion pieces right sides together and stitch them together using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2 inch gap for turning.

OPTIONAL – You can make rounded corners by continuing to stitch around the corner and keeping the edge of the presser foot at the edge of the fabric as a guide.

Trim the corners to reduce the bulk.

Turn right side out and push out the corners with a blunt pencil or chopstick.

Stuff the Soil Cushion.

Stitch the gap close using a Ladder Stitch.

Follow the ‘Ladder Stitch’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for 3 more cushions.

Weaving – Place all 6 of the Basket Piece 4 strips spaced evenly across one of the Basket Piece 1 pieces. Pin.

Take a Basket Piece 3 piece and start weaving the strip under a Basket Piece 4 and then over the next Basket Piece 4 etc. Pin the Basket Piece 3 to the last Basket Piece 4 strip.

Repeat step 3.2 until all the Basket Piece 3 strips have been woven.

NOTE – The strips must alternate how they start the weaving pattern, for example, the first strip is woven under, over, under etc. So the second strip will be woven over, under over etc. The third will then be woven under, over, under etc.

TIP – To keep the weaving from coming undone, pin the strips together.

Straighten the strips, and tighten the weaving, then make sure you are happy with how all pieces are sitting. Double check that all pieces are pinned.

Then you can trim away any excess on the felt strips and make the strips even.

Pin the Basket Piece 2 pieces in place on both ends of the Basket.

Repeat step 3.4 with the second Basket Piece 1 piece.

Thread a strong upholstery or embroidery needle with strong sewing thread and stitch them You can use any decorative stitches, like crosses as shown here.

From this step you can choose to stitch or glue the pieces together with a heat glue gun.

For the Sewing OPTION, follow below. For the Hot Glue Gun OPTION, skip to step 3.9.

Sewing OPTION: Pin the end of Handle onto the middle of the long side.

Hand stitch or machine stitch the Handle. Then repeat for the other side of the handle on the other side of the Basket.

Pin Basket Piece 5 onto the back and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Skip to step 4.

Flip the Basket through the Handle so that the felt side shows downwards and the woven side faces out for all to see.

Skip to step 4.

Hot Glue Gun OPTION – Find the middle of both long sides of the Basket. Attach the end of Handle onto the middle of the long side with the glue gun, then attach the other end of the Handle to the other side of the Basket.

Glue the Basket Piece 5 onto the back of the Basket to cover up all the stitches and to strengthen the base of the handle.

When all the glue is dry, flip the Basket through the Handle so that the felt side shows downwards and the woven side faces out for all to see.

Place two Napkin pieces right sides together and align the edges. Pin.

Stitch all around using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a gap in the middle of a shorter side for turning.

Clip the corners to reduce the bulk. Make little snips into the seam allowance at the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn Napkin right side out and press the seams.

Press raw edges of the opening gap into the napkin interior and pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.