Women's Very Vintage Blouse

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to the Collar, Collar Stand, Placket, and Cuffs.

NOTE – If you are using sheer fabric you may wish to use the interfaced Cuff and Placket pieces on the outside of the blouse as this will hide your stitching and seam allowances.

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. Otherwise, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the Collar won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. 

Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting as you sew the rest of the garment. Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Staystitch each armscye from shoulder seam to underarm on the front and back, and the front and back necklines in the direction of the arrows.

If you are sewing pintucks for the gathered blouse, you will also need to staystitch the top and bottom of both pintuck pieces.

If you are sewing the gathered blouse without pintucks, skip to step 2. If you are sewing the darted blouse, skip to step 3.

Pintucks are delicate and very narrow and can provide body and support. It is much easier to sew pintucks into a piece of fabric and then cut out your pattern piece. If you cut your pattern piece first and then try sewing the pintucks, there is a higher margin for error, and this can cause fitting issues. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so that you can follow along.

Before you start this step, don’t forget to staystitch across the top and bottom to avoid your fabric stretching out of place. Also, some fabrics may be easier to sew if you give them a good starch.

Choose the thread you would like to use based on how you would like your pintucks to look. For pintucks to be visible from afar, use a heavier thread. If you would only like them to be visible up close, use a lighter thread.

You may also want to adjust your tension. The higher the tension, the more the fabric will stick up. If your tension is too loose the pintuck will not form correctly. Use a shorter straight stitch.

We are showing you the traditional way to sew pintucks. However, you can sew these using a pintuck foot and twin needle. A pintuck foot has ridges which you use as guidelines for spacing to keep a consistent distance between pintucks. Remember you will need to sew the pintucks ⅛ inch/0.3cm from the marking. If you would prefer to use this method, mark the first line for each set of pintucks and use the foot as a guide for the next pintuck. Keep the line you have drawn for the first one in the center of your twin needle. As you sew, the bobbin thread pulls the stitching rows together to create the pin tuck within the groove.

Lay your pintuck fabric right side up. Using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk, draw a line from the top marking to the bottom marking for the first pintuck.

Measure 0.6 inches / 1.5cm in towards the middle and draw another line. Repeat for the next two lines so you have four lines in total.

Starting at the other outer marking, repeat step 1.1 for the second set of four pintuck lines.

Repeat steps 1.1 and 1.2 for the second pintuck fabric.

Fold the fabric along the first pintuck line over to the wrong side. Press.

With right side facing up, stitch ⅛ inch away from the pressed edge.

NOTE – No need to backstitch as you will be cutting this fabric to fit the Front Waist Panel pattern piece and basting across the pintucks.

Repeat steps 1.3 and 1.4 for the seven remaining pintucks.

TIP – When sewing your next pintuck, check the fold of the previous pintuck is out of the way.

Repeat steps 1.3 and 1.4 for the second pintuck fabric.

Press all the pintucks in the same direction on both pieces.

TIP – Gently pull the threads to raise the tucks before pressing.

Pin the Front Waist Panel pattern piece onto the square fabric with your sewn pintucks, matching the outer markings to the outer pintucks on each side. 

Cut out the Front Waist Panel.

NOTE – The pintucks should be pressed toward the side seams. 

Repeat step 1.7 for the other Front Waist Panel. 

NOTE – You will need to cut a mirror image with the pintucks pressed to the side seam.

Baste at ¼ inch across the top and bottom of each set of pintucks.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

If you are sewing the one piece blouse, skip to step 3.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, follow steps 2.1 to 2.2. Then, pin the Front Bust Panel and Front Waist Panel right sides together. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance up. Then skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the front bust and Front Waist Panels together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so that you can follow along.

We are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches between the marks on the bottom edge of the Front Bust Panel.

Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!

Lay your Front Bust Panel above the Front Waist Panel. Gather the stitches by pulling gently on both bobbin threads, until it matches the width of the pintucks on the Front Waist Panel.

NOTE – If you haven’t sewn the pintucks, you will gather between the markings (instead of the pintucks) on the Front Waist Panel.

Gently spread out the gathers with your fingers so they are even.

Baste your gathers in place at ¼ inch.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose at either end of your stitching.

You are going to stitch the front panels together using a French seam.

Lay the wrong side of the Front Bust Panel on top of the wrong side of the Front Waist Panel (right sides facing out), matching up the center front seam. Pin together.

The Front Waist Panel will have a pointed edge sticking out slightly. You want the little triangle where the two pieces meet to be ½ inch away from the raw edge of the Front Bust Panel. That way, when you sew the pieces together, they will meet up exactly.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. 

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make absolutely sure nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

With wrong sides facing up, press the seam allowance up towards the gathering.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.8 for the other front bodice.

If you are sewing the two piece blouse, skip to step 4.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use that. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Lay the fabric wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

Draw the dart in between the corner points using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the centerline of the dart and press.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart. 

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.

Press the dart toward the bottom edge of the bodice.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the dart on the other front bodice piece.

This step is the same for both blouse options. The images used are for the two piece blouse, but the construction is the same for both.

Set aside your non-interfaced pair of front Plackets (1x left and 1x right). We will use these later.

Using one of your interfaced pairs of front Plackets (1x left and 1x right), turn the longer edge ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

You will end up sewing this folded edge of the Placket to the inside of the front of your blouse. This will match at the seam allowance and create a small triangle of overhang at the top. 

TIP – If you are still having difficulty working out which side of the Placket to turn under, read through this section in full to understand how the Placket goes together. This Placket longest edge has the seam allowance pressed back, then the shorter edges of the Placket pieces are stitched together to form the double sided Placket. Once pressed the right way out, the remaining longest edge i.e. the unpressed edge, is sewn to the front of the blouse.

Right sides together, place the Placket on top of the mirror non-interfaced Placket, matching the shorter raw edges. Pin together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – If you are using a mid-weight cotton, trim the seam allowance in half to reduce bulk.

Turn the Placket so it’s right sides out and press.

Try to make sure your seam line is exactly in the middle of the fold so that you can’t see it from the front or the back of the Placket.

TIP – The non-interfaced side is the side that will face outwards so if you can’t quite get your seam line right on the fold, roll it more towards the back/interfaced part. That way it won’t be visible from the blouse when you are wearing it.

We will now attach the Placket to the front bodice.

Unfold the Placket. Place the right side of the Placket onto the right side of the front bodice, matching the center front raw edges. 

Starting at the hem, pin the Placket to the blouse. The Placket will overlap the blouse at the top by a small triangle. Make sure you are only pinning this side of the Placket to the front bodice.

NOTE – The image shows pinning the interfaced Placket as sheer fabric has been used. If you are using a sheer fabric, attach it this way to hide your seam allowance and stitches.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – If you are using mid-weight fabric, trim the seam allowance in half.

Flip the front bodice so the wrong side faces up. Keeping the Placket open, press the seam allowance towards the Placket.

Fold the Placket closed, tucking the folded seam allowance inside, so all the raw edges are hidden.

Pin in place. The fold of the interfaced part of the Placket should line up with the seam line where you stitched the Placket to the blouse. This should be just covered so you can’t see it.

You are going to hand stitch the Placket to the front bodice in the next step. This will hide the stitches, so they aren’t visible from the front.

OPTIONAL – An alternative to hand sewing the Placket to the blouse is to stitch in the ditch. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your bodice. This is called stitching in the ditch. Your stitches won’t be seen.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Placket closed. If you don’t know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through the Placket just inside the seam allowance. Pull the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the folded edge of the Placket, to create a stitch that is about ⅛ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.11 for the other Placket.

This step is the same for both blouse options.

With the back bodice facing right side up, place pins at the center back and at both pattern markings.

With right sides together, fold the back bodice in half at the center pin, matching up the outer pins. 

Pin together where the two pins match up.

Measure 2 inches/5 cm down from the pin, and mark with a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.

NOTE – Depending on your shape you might find you need to stitch further than 2 inches/5 cm for the pleat. This will give you more definition through your shoulders and upper back.

Stitch along the mark you made in step 5.3.

Flip the back bodice so the wrong side is facing up. Use your fingers to press the fabric down, matching the pin you used to mark the center point, to the stitching from step 5.4. 

Pin the pleat to the back bodice on either side of the center point. 

Turn the back bodice right side up and baste the pleat at ¼ inch.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

This step is the same for both blouse options.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, sew the shoulder seams right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge the seam allowance (stitching before serging gives a stronger finish on the shoulders which are a high-stress area of the garment). Press seam allowance towards the back. Then skip to step 7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the front and back bodice together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so that you can follow along.

Lay a front bodice on top of the back, wrong sides together (right sides out) and pin in place.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice. 

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam). 

Open the bodice flat, wrong sides facing up and press the seam allowance towards the back.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.4 for the other shoulder seam.

This step is the same for both blouse options.

FIT CHECK – Before completing this step, try on the blouse and pin or clip the side seams together. Check that it fits how you like, make any adjustments, then continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the side seams, right sides together, all the way down in one line from the under arm down to the hem of the blouse. Press towards the back. Repeat for the other side seam. Skip to step 8 for the gathered Sleeve option or step 9 for the straight Sleeve option.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Again we are going to sew French seams, following the same steps we did in step 6.

You are going to stitch the front to the back along the side seam using a French seam. 

With wrong sides together (right sides facing out), match the front bodice to the back along the side seams and pin in place.

Stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam). 

Open the bodice flat, wrong sides facing up and press the seam towards the back.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.4 for the other side seam.

If you are sewing the straight Sleeve, skip to step 9.

You will be sewing the rouleau loops for the Sleeve Cuff. If you are using shop bought bias binding skip step to step 8.5.

Take the fabric strip you cut for the rouleau loops and fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin along the raw edge.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn right side out and press.

There are several ways to turn the loop right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here are two options on how I like to do it.

METHOD A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).

Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.

METHOD B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.

Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turn the tube right side out completely.

Cut the long strip (or bias binding) every 2.25 inches until you have ten pieces – five pieces per Cuff.

The finished size of each loop should be ¼ inch wide by 2.25 inches long.

You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches between the marks (shown with pins here) on the armscye.

Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Take your Sleeve and stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have! 

Sew two rows of gathering stitches.

Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather, and then gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly.

Stitch the Sleeve underarm seam together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 6.1 to 6.4.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Insert the Sleeve into the bodice, wrong sides together, matching the side seams.

Pin the Sleeve to the bodice, adjusting the gathers as needed.

Use a French seam to attach the Sleeve to the bodice, following the same steps we did for steps 6.1 to 6.4. 

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Sew two rows of gathering stitches all around the bottom edge of the Sleeve. Do not gather the stitches yet, you will do that in step 8.26.

Take the loops you made in steps 8.1 to 8.5 and fold each loop in half. You will be adding your loops to the interfaced Cuff, facing right way up.

NOTE – If you are using a sheer fabric you may want to use the interfaced Cuff on the opposite side to hide your stitches. You will be attaching the loops to a non-interfaced Cuff here.

Starting 1 inch from the bottom of the Cuff, matching the raw edges, pin your first loop in place. Space the loops evenly and pin in place.

NOTE – Check the loops aren’t sitting above the marking (shown with a pin here).

This will be your inner Cuff.

Baste the loops to the Cuff using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Take a matching non-interfaced Cuff piece and press the top long edge ½ inch to the wrong side.

Pin the matching non-interfaced and interfaced Cuff pieces right sides together. Starting at the marking on one side, pin all the way along the side seam, bottom edge and up the other side seam, stopping at the opposite marking.

NOTE – Check your loops are still in place correctly and out the way of the seam you will be sewing.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam.

Clip the bottom corners to reduce bulk.

Turn the Cuff right side out and press the seams.

Turn the Cuff inside out. Take the top Cuff (facing you) and fold it at the markings. 

Take the top left of the bottom Cuff piece (not folded down) and fold it in half width ways, meeting the right hand side. Pin together.

NOTE – You will need to unfold the top pressed edge from step 8.14 so that you are able to sew these seams together.

NOTE – Check that the folded down Cuff from step 8.19 is out of the way.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You will be stitching from the top edge of the Cuff down to the existing stitching from step 8.16. 

Turn the Cuff right sides out.

Repeat steps 8.20 to 8.21 to stitch the other Cuff sides together. 

NOTE – Make sure that the other layers of the Cuff are folded down and out of the way.

Next you will sew the Cuff to the Sleeve.

NOTE – Having your loops on the outside will give a real vintage look. To do this, line the notch at the top of the Cuff to the Sleeve side seam. Check that you have the correct Cuff on the correct Sleeve.

We are showing how to sew the loops on the inside of the Sleeve for a more modern look. You will need to match your Cuff seam above the loops to the Sleeve side seam.

Place a pin at the quarter points of the Sleeve.

TIP – Use a different color pin to mark where you plan to put the loops. We’ve used a black pin.

Turn the Cuff wrong side out and fold the Cuff (with the folded edge) down and out of the way. Place pins at the quarter points of the raw edges of the Cuff.

TIP – Place the same color pin that you used in the previous step to mark the seam where the Cuff loops are.

You will be inserting the Sleeve into the Cuff. With the sewn end of the Cuff facing the bottom of the Sleeve, place the Sleeve inside the Cuff, right sides together. Match up the quarter points and pin the Cuff to the Sleeve.

TIP – Make sure to line up the matching pins where the loops should be. 

Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the Sleeve stitches until the quarter points match up.

Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches.

Turn the Sleeve inside out. 

Fold the unstitched edge of the Cuff up and over the seam allowance from step 8.26, enclosing the seam allowance. Pin.

Stitch the Cuff to the Sleeve using a slipstitch, following what you did in steps 4.8 to 4.10.

Try on the blouse to determine where you would like your buttons to sit. Sew the buttons to the Cuff. 

TIP – You can tighten or loosen the Cuff by moving your buttons closer or further from the edge.

Repeat steps 8.6 to 8.29 for the other Sleeve. Remember to attach the loops to the opposite side (mirror Cuff) in step 8.12.

If you have sewn the gathered Sleeves, skip to step 10.

Fold the slit piece in half, wrong sides together and press.

Open out the slit and fold the long edges in toward the middle and press again.

Cut the marking for your slit.

Open the slit piece. With the right sides together, pin one long edge of the slit piece to the Sleeve slit.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn the Sleeve over. Fold the slit piece in half so the folded edge matches up with the seam. The raw edges should now be hidden inside.

Hand stitch the slit to the Sleeve using a slipstitch, as you did for steps 4.8. to 4.10.

Fold the Sleeve at the slit so the right sides are together. Pin the slit together diagonally across the top.

Stitch diagonally across the top of the slit.

With the wrong side facing up, fold the slit towards the side of the Sleeve with the pleat markings. Pin at the bottom of the slit.

Baste the slit to the Sleeve with a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Fold the Sleeve right sides together, lining up the transferred markings of the pleat.

Stick a pin straight down from the top edge of the fabric, through the markings.

With the right side facing up, fold the Sleeve back at your second pleat marking. Pin.

Baste your pleat with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Stitch the long straight edges of the Sleeve together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 3.1 to 3.5.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch. 

Insert the Sleeve into the bodice, wrong sides together, matching the side seams and markings.

Pin the Sleeve to the bodice.

NOTE – The images shown are the gathered Sleeve, but the French seam construction is the same regardless of the Sleeve being attached.

Use a French seam to attach the Sleeve to the bodice, following the same steps we did for steps 6.1 to 6.4. 

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

With the right sides together, pin an interfaced Cuff piece to a non-interfaced Cuff piece, along one of the long edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If your fabric is a mid-weight cotton you may need to trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn right side out and press.

Open out the Cuff and press the raw edge of the interfaced Cuff long edge ½ inch to the wrong side.

TIP – If you are using a sheer fabric, I suggest having your interfaced Cuff on the outside, so your stitching doesn’t show. You will need to press the raw edge of the non-interfaced Cuff in this step and attach the interfaced Cuff in the next step.

Find the center of your non-interfaced Cuff and the center of your Sleeve (with the slit closed) and mark with a pin.

With right sides together, matching the centers, pin the unfolded edge of the Cuff to the Sleeve. The marking should match the underarm seam.

NOTE – Your Cuff will be 1 inch longer than your Sleeve, ½ inch on each side.

Stitch along the Sleeve using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Take the interfaced Cuff with the folded edge and fold it down, wrong sides together, matching the unsewn long edge to the sewn long edge of the Cuff.

Pin the short edges of the Cuff together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the stitch line you sewed in step 9.18.

NOTE – Make sure the Sleeve doesn’t get caught in these stitches.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn the Cuff right sides out and press.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Stitch the folded seam of the Cuff to the Sleeve using a slipstitch or stitch in the ditch, as you did in steps 4.8 to 4.10.

Sew a buttonhole, using the markings you previously transferred.

TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin at the end to stop it from going all the way though. 

NOTE – We’re showing you the traditional way to sew a buttonhole (horizontally) as it allows ‘give’ in the Sleeve, so the Cuff can move slightly with you. If you would prefer a tighter fit or a Cuff that does not move as much, try the Cuff on to check the fit, then sew the buttonhole vertically using your preferred placement.

Try on the blouse to determine where you would like your button. Sew in place. 

TIP – You can tighten or loosen the Cuff by moving your button.

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.29 for the other Sleeve.

The instructions are the same for both the rounded and pointed Collar.

With the right sides together, pin the Collar pieces together along the outer edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk. 

For the rounded Collar, snip into the seam allowance around the curved edge.

Turn right side out and press.

TIP – For the pointed Collar, use a blunt object, like a chopstick to push out the corners.

Press the bottom edge of the non-interfaced Collar Stand ½ inch to the wrong side along the long bottom curved edge.

Find the center of your Collar and mark the raw edge with a pin.

Find the center of both Collar Stands and mark with a pin along the top curved edge.

With right sides together, sandwich the Collar between the Collar Stands, matching the non-interfaced Collar Stand to the non-interfaced Collar. The Collar Stand notches will match the end of the Collar.

Unfold the pressed seam from step 10.5.

Starting at the end of the Collar Stands, stitch together using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves, taking care to not snip into the stitches.

Turn right side out and press the seam allowance down.

Place a pin at the center of the raw edge of the interfaced Collar Stand and at the center of the back bodice.

Matching center points and ends, right sides together, pin the Collar Stand to the bodice.

NOTE – Pin along the ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – The ½ inch seam allowance helps the Collar Stand up when the blouse is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the Collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Do not snip further than halfway into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your Collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.

Press the bodice seam allowance up into the Collar.

Fold the Collar Stand down over the seam allowance and pin the pressed seam allowance in place. 

Stitch the Collar Stand to the bodice using a slipstitch, as you did in steps 4.8 to 4.10.

This step is the same for both blouse options.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge along the bottom edge. Do not remove any fabric. Press ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to the edge.  

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Turn the hem ¼ inch toward the wrong side and press.

Turn under the hem another ¼ inch and press again. The raw edges will now be enclosed.

Pin in place.

Topstitch the hem in place by stitching close to the folded edge. 

TIP – You want your stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the blouse, so it looks uniform from the outside. To do this, use your presser foot or a marking on your foot plate on your sewing machine to line up your fabric as you stitch.

This step is the same for both blouse options.

FIT CHECK – If you find you regularly have gaping at the bust when you wear button front shirts, we can help prevent this by adding a buttonhole in the right place. Try on your blouse now. Mark the center bust for a buttonhole. Now, evenly distribute your buttonholes from this point. Be sure to place a button at the very top, just under your Collar. Also, match new button markings to your new buttonholes before attaching.

Using the markings you transferred from the Placket pattern piece and the Collar Stand in the preparation step, sew buttonholes to each marking.

TIP – Test a buttonhole on a scrap of fabric first to check it fits your button, and your Placket in the direction you want it to.

TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.

Try on your garment and mark the corresponding button placement, adjusting to suit your fit.

NOTE – Your buttonholes can be aligned either vertically up and down, or horizontally across the Placket. You’ll notice ready-to-wear shirts are often a mix of the two techniques and it is often a matter of personal preference. I prefer my buttonholes horizontal as it means the Placket cannot move up and down, but it does mean the Placket can open and close slightly while buttoned. To counter this, many blouses have a horizontal buttonhole at the top with the rest vertical. Another consideration is the size of your button. If your button is wider than ½ inch, you may find your buttonhole ends up being wider than the top stitching if you do it horizontally. In this case, you would need vertical buttonholes. 

TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure they will line up. If needed, move any buttons to align better with your buttonholes.