Women Amsterdam Coat

OPTIONAL Label

If you have a business label, or a child’s name tag you wish to attach, do this now before you start. A good place is either in the center back of the back facing (halfway up the facing), or about an inch below the neckline in the center of the back piece.

OPTIONAL Hanging Loop

If you would like a hanging loop (to use to hang your finished coat on a hook for example), cut a strip of fabric from your contrast fabric 2 inches wide by 2 ½ inches long. Then use the button loop instructions at step 5 now to fold it like double fold bias tape and then top stitch (so that it is ½ inch wide by 2 ½ inches long). Fold both ends under ¼ inch and position horizontally in the center back of the back lining, approximately 1 inch below the raw neckline edge. Top stitch both ends in place.

OPTIONAL Tab Loops 

If you are doing the Sleeve Tabs, as per the cutting chart, you will also need 2x Tab Loops. Use the button loop instructions at step 5 now to fold them like double fold bias tape, then top stitch.

OPTIONAL Interfacing

If you are using interfacing, before starting sewing, iron your interfacing onto the wrong side of each of your facing pieces. For best results, the interfacing should be placed on each facing piece and begin ironing from the center to the outside of the yoke to avoid wrinkles. Make sure do a test patch on a spare piece of fabric and use your interfacing manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the interfacing goes on smoothly with no ‘bubbles’ in it.  

TIP – Trim the seam allowance (½ inch) off the interfacing before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the Side Fronts to the Fronts. This is called a ‘princess seam’ (where the seam runs over between the front and side front, down the side of the body over the bust).

You will need to stretch the piece with the inner curve (side front) to match the piece with outer curve (front) or the pieces will not match up. Start by pinning from the bottom up (as in the left photo) along the straight section. Then pin the top together, then stretch the fabric around the curve. This ‘easing in’ gives the bust its shape.

If your fabric’s right and wrong sides look the same, make sure to assemble mirror pairs so you don’t end up with two right or two left sides. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – If your fabric has very little give and can’t be stretched enough, use the following method: stay stitch both sides of the princess seam just inside ½ inch. Make little snips on the inner curve of the side front piece about ¾ of the way to your stitching line. These little snips will allow your fabric to spread and match the outer curve of the side front.  Pin in place. Using lots of pins or clips also helps.

Clip the curves by making little snips about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Make these snips about ½ inch (1.3cm) apart. Do not snip too close to the seam or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curves sit flat.

Press the seam open. Use a tailor’s ham or roll to press the curve. If you don’t have one, you can roll a towel and give it the shape you need to fit the curve of the princess seam and press. 

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 with the Side Back and Back piece.

If you have difficulty, again follow the tips in step 1.1. Start by pinning the straight side, then pin the top, then ease around the curve. Make sure to press using a tailors ham or other rolled surface underneath the curve to get the shape.

With the right sides of the fabric together pin the Yoke to the Back. Stitch using a ½ seam allowance. Press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabrics together, align one Pocket piece straight edge to one Front side seam. When lined up correctly, the corners of the pocket and side seam will poke beyond each other. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance (your seam line will cross where the two pieces meet). Press the seam allowance towards the Pocket and away from the coat.

Understitch the Pocket. To do this, from the right side of the Pocket, stitch the seam allowance to the pocket, using a ⅛ seam allowance. If you turn the fabric over, you will see your understitching line running right next to the seam where you stitched the pocket to the lining in step 1.5.

Repeat steps 1.5 to 1.6 for the three remaining Pocket pieces.

Line up both side seams right side to right side, making sure the Pockets line up exactly with each other.

Stitch the side seams, turning crisply where the pockets meet the coat.

TIP – To get nice sharp corners around the pockets, I like to mark the pivot points on fabric with a washable marker. Go slowly and put the needle down when you reach the pivot point. Then lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric before putting your presser foot down again.

To strengthen the pocket seam, stitch around the pocket section again, into the seam allowance, ¼ inch from your stitching line.

If you are doing the optional Back Belt, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 4.

Transfer the button markings from the belt pattern piece onto one belt piece. Position the two Belt pieces with the right sides of the fabric together. Pin in place and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance all around, leaving a 3 inches gap at the bottom unstitched.

Trim the seam allowance to ¼ and clip the curve by making little snips about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. As before when we did snips, make these snips about ½ inch (1.3cm) apart. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat.

Turn right side out and press. Carefully turn the raw edge inside and pin the gap closed. Topstitch around the entire belt using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Position the Belt on back horizontally right in the middle the belt placement line (the buttons line up with seam between back and side back, the centerline of the belt should be directly over the waistline/belt placement line marking). The Belt should curve upwards slightly like a smile. Pin in place.

To secure the Belt on the coat, sew ½ inch long bar tack vertically on the button markings. Start by using a regular straight stitch ½ inch long. Backstitch back to your starting point. Change your machine setting to a narrow and very dense zigzag stitch (2-3mm wide and 0.3-0.5mm long). Sew from your starting point to the end point. Change your machine settings back to normal. Stitch a button on either end directly on top of the tacks to hide them.

NOTE – A bar tack is where you do a zig zag stitch on the spot. The needle moves from side to side to secure fabric. It doesn’t move. If you don’t have a bar tack stitch on your machine, use the zig zag stitch but reduce the length to 0 so it stays in one place.

Pin the two Fronts and Back pieces with the right sides of the fabric together at shoulder seams. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.

OPTIONAL Shoulder Detail – If doing the optional shoulder detail, follow the rest of the steps in this section. If not, skip to step 4.

Press the top and bottom edges of the Back Yoke by ½ inch toward the wrong side of the fabric.

TIP – To turn the curved bottom edge under evenly, try stitching a basting stitch (loose, long stitch) just under the ½ inch seam allowance. Then, use your stitching line as a guide to turn under and press.

Position the Yoke right side up, lining it up with the coat raw edges at the shoulders and around the neckline. Pin in place. With the coat lying flat, smooth the yoke over the front shoulders and back.  Pin the folded edges in place.

TIP – If your contrast fabric marks easily, use clips or a wash-away double sided tape such as Wonder Tape on the wrong side of the yoke to secure in place.

From the right side of the fabric, top stitch on along the top and bottom edge of the yoke using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Baste the other raw edges of the Yoke to the Front & Back just under ¼ inch (e.g. around the neckline and shoulder curves).

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

TIP – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

If you are doing the optional Sleeve Tabs, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 5.

Pin two mirror image Sleeve Tabs with the right sides of the fabric together. Repeat for the other two Sleeve Tabs you have left. You should now have 2 sets of sleeve tabs.

Stitch around each set using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the straight diagonal end open. Go slowly around the curve and lift your presser foot with the needle down to reposition the fabric as needed.

Trim the seam allowance to ¼ and, using the very tip of your scissors, make little snips around the curve as you did on previous clipping steps.

Turn both tabs right way out & press. Top stitch ⅛ inch from the edges around the three stitched sides, leaving the diagonal end open.

Pin each set of Sleeve Tab to the right side of an Under Sleeve in mirrored position. Align the bottom edge of the tabs so they are 2 ¾ inches from the raw edge of the bottom of each under sleeve. They should be pinned to the long side of the Under Sleeve, with the curved end pointing up and towards the short side of the under sleeve.

With a ¼ seam allowance, baste the short raw edge of each sleeve tab in place onto the sleeves.

NOTE – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin one Upper Sleeve to an Under Sleeve along the long inner curve edge. Stitch using a ½ seam allowance. Press the seam open. 

Repeat for the remaining Upper Sleeve and Under Sleeve.

OPTIONAL Sleeve Tabs & Loops – Fold under ¼ inch the short raw edges of each 3 inches long tab loops and press.

Otherwise skip to step 5.7.

Position the Tab Loops directly on the seam between the Upper Sleeve and Under Sleeve aligning each bottom 2 ½ inches above the raw edge of the sleeve.

Top stitch each end in place.

TIP – Alternately you can do a bar tack. A bar tack is very short and dense zigzag stitches used to reinforce stressed seams on a garment. Start by using a regular straight stitch over both ends of the loops. Backstitch back to your starting point. Change your machine setting to a narrow and very dense zigzag stitch (2-3mm wide, 0.3-0.5mm long). Sew from your starting point to the end point.

NOTE – If you have made your Tab Loops out of a heavier fabric such as wool, you may find it difficult to do this step. An alternative is to either hand stitch or use rivets to secure them in place.

With the sleeve lying flat, thread each sleeve tab through the sleeve tab loop. Pin the loose end of the sleeve tab into place. It curves along its length, but the other end should also be 2 ¾ inches from the raw edge of the sleeve.

Bar tack the end of the Sleeve Tab in place as you did with the Back Belt. Then stitch a button over the bar tack.

Fold the sleeve so that the long sides of the upper and under sleeve are right sides together. Pin in place and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open the best you can using a tailor roll or a rolled towel if possible.

Mark on each sleeve the lines from the Upper and Under Sleeve pattern pieces. The marking on the Upper Sleeve will match the shoulder seam and the marking from the Under Sleeve will match the side seam of the coat.

We are now going to ease the sleeves to distribute the fullness of the sleeve into the armhole. To do this, sew a first line of basting stitches just under the ½ inch seam allowance along the sleeve caps (the curve of the sleeve that will go over the shoulder). Sew a second row of basting stitches between the seam allowance and the raw edge. Leave the tails of the threads from the basting stitches long so you can pull them gently in the next step.

NOTE – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

Pin the sleeves to the armhole right sides together aligning all markings and starting at the underarm seam. Pull on the bobbin thread very slightly to fit the sleeve to the armhole of the bodice. Then pin in place.

TIP – Before continuing on with the rest of this step, try the coat on (being careful of your pins!). For most body types, the markings on the pattern pieces will have the sleeves align perfectly. However, if you have a generous bust, you may find you need to swivel the sleeve ½ to 1 inch towards the back of the coat to get a good fit.

Sew the seam with the short side on top making sure that there are no puckers. Press. Remove any visible stitches from ease stitching.

NOTE – Make sure you insert the correct sleeve into the correct armhole. There are markings on the pattern pieces showing which is the front and back of the sleeve. If you have done the sleeve tab, it will start at roughly the center back of the sleeve, curving towards the body, and then out again with the button at roughly the center front of the sleeve. See the next step for photos of the front and back of the coat where the sleeve upper and lower seams align (they do not line up with the side front or back seams of the coat).

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 with the other sleeve and armhole.

Stitch a second row of stitches in the seam allowance to give the shoulder some strength.

If you are doing the optional Shoulder Pads, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 8 for Button Loops or step 9 for Button Elastic.

Try on the coat and position the shoulder pads under the shoulder seams. These are not marked on the pattern pieces as many shoulder pads differ, as do body shapes. To get them right for you and your preferences, you will need to try them on. Tack the shoulder pads in place. I prefer to do this by hand stitching them into the seam allowance of the shoulder seam so it’s invisible from the outside.

Decide whether you want the left or the right of the coat front to fold on top when you close the coat. 

Traditionally ladies coats close with the left piece on top as you look at the coat (or your right as you are wearing it). Men’s double breasted coats close in the opposite direction. 

The reason being is that ladies used to have ladies maids helping them get dressed and this enabled right-handed ladies maids to do up the ladies coat more easily from the front. Whereas men more commonly did their own coats up. Nowadays (with a distinct lack of ladies maids!) both styles are common for either gender.

If you would like your coat to be traditional, for females, the left front piece needs to close on top as you look at the coat. For males, the right front piece needs to close on top. 

If you don’t mind (or you are a left handed male or a right handed female without a ladies maid!) you can do the opposite. It’s up to you. If you’re not sure, try your coat on and see what’s most comfortable.

It is whichever piece that closes on top where you will need to do your button loops or button elastics. Take note of which side you decide now before proceeding to the next step.

For the coat to be able to fasten closed, you can either do button loops out of your contrast fabric in this step, or you can use an elastic to do more unobtrusive fastenings in the next step.

If doing optional Button Loops, follow the below steps. If not, skip to step 9 for the other Button Elastic option.

For each Button Loop, we are going to fold and press as if we were making double fold bias tape (don’t worry if you don’t know what that is, just follow these instructions). Fold Button Loop in half wrong side to wrong side down its length. Press well.

Tuck each long raw edge into the middle of the fold so that the long raw edges are all hidden. Press.

Fold again down the middle line and press.

Top stitch down the length of the button loop close to both edges (so you’ve got 2 rows of top stitching, one next to each folded edge). Backstitch at both ends.

TIP – If you find the fabric slipping or are finding it difficult to get traction at the beginning of the seam on this thin and heavier strip of fabric, switch your presser foot. A walking foot is ideal; however, have a look at the other suggestions on page 11 if you don’t have one. This also applies if you find your thread bunching up under the beginning of the seam and making a knot underneath the fabric. Additionally, to get even better traction, I like to position the strip directly on top of one feed dog and reposition the needle as needed. Also, at the beginning of the seam, hold gently but firmly the bobbin and needle threads towards the back.

Lay your coat on a flat surface and mark from the pattern where the buttons go for your size on the side of the coat you want to be on top (see note just before this section to decide this).

TIP – As per the printing instructions, there are a lot of markings on the front pattern piece. If you have difficulty finding the button markings for your size, print this pattern piece using layers so you can see your size only.

There are five button markings and five button loops. Place your button loops on your coat front so that they are horizontal, starting at the button marking, and pointing towards the coat center front. Make sure the raw edge of the button loop is centered vertically so that it is directly on the button marking. And that the bottom of the button loop is just above the button marking. Pin that end of the button loop in place.

Curve the other raw edge of the Button Loop back towards the button marking and pin the other end of the Button Loop directly below the first end you pinned in the previous step. You should now have your button loops pinned in place by the raw ends, directly over the button marking. Make sure they aren’t twisted.

Using a ⅛ seam allowance, stitch each Button Loop to the coat front with a vertical stitch that catches each Button Loop raw end.

Stitch back and forwards over the button loop carefully several times. This will give it strength to hold it in place.

TIP – If you find that your fabric is fraying, sew a bar tack ⅛ from the raw edge. A bar tack is very short and dense zigzag stitches used to reinforce stressed seams on a garment. Start by using a regular straight stitch over both ends of the loops. Backstitch back to your starting point. Change your machine setting to a narrow and very dense zigzag stitch (2-3mm wide, 0.3-0.5mm long). Sew from your starting point to the end point.

Decide whether you want the left or the right of the coat front to fold on top when you close the coat. 

Traditionally ladies coats close with the left piece on top as you look at the coat (or your right as you are wearing it). Men’s double breasted coats close in the opposite direction. 

The reason being is that ladies used to have ladies maids helping them get dressed and this enabled right-handed ladies maids to do up the ladies coat more easily from the front. Whereas men more commonly did their own coats up. Nowadays (with a distinct lack of ladies maids!) both styles are common for either gender.

If you would like your coat to be traditional, for females, the left front piece needs to close on top as you look at the coat. For males, the right front piece needs to close on top. 

If you don’t mind (or you are a left handed male or a right handed female without a ladies maid!) you can do the opposite. It’s up to you. If you’re not sure, try your coat on and see what’s most comfortable.

It is whichever piece that closes on top where you will need to do your button loops or button elastics. Take note of which side you decide now before proceeding to the next step.

If you are doing button elastics, follow the steps in this section. Otherwise, skip to step 10.

Cut your elastic into 5 strips that measure 3 inches long. Fold each strip of elastic in half.

Pin each strip of elastic to the coat front on the button elastic markings (these are the 5 small notch-style markings that are on the open edge of the front pattern piece). The raw edges of the button elastic should match with the raw edge of the coat. The folded edge of the button elastic should be pointing horizontally across the coat front, towards the sleeve.

Baste the button elastics in place by stitching back and forwards several times. This will give them strength.

NOTE – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

TIP – If you find your elastic is rolling or moving as you try to stitch it, tack it in place with a drop of sewing glue or some tape until it is stitched securely. Using a walking foot if you have one can also help.

Transfer the button markings onto both the left and right sides of the coat fronts. Stitch all 10 buttons on.

NOTE – If you have done the button elastics, the buttons on the side of the coat that closes on top are purely decorative and are optional. If you have done the button loops, the buttons on the side of the coat that closes on top are also purely decorative; however, they also serve the purpose of hiding the raw edges of the button loops.

TIP – If you have done the button loops, carefully trim any of the raw edges of the button loops that the buttons don’t hide.

When sewing flat buttons on a coat I like to use three threads of embroidery floss. 

Do not stitch the buttons too close to the garment and leave enough space for the overlap layer. To do so, you will need to build a shank out of thread. 

To make the shank, sew your buttons with a toothpick over it. 

Once you are done sewing the button, remove the toothpick. This will automatically loosen up your button. 

Pull gently on the button to the end of your stitches to transfer all extra space under the button. 

Wrap your threads around the loops underneath the button a few times.  

Finish by sewing a few small stitches to the wrong side of the fabric at the base of the shank. 

NOTE – It is not necessary to build a shank on the decorative buttons side.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin and stitch the Hood pieces along the long, curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the curve. Press the seam open.

TIP – Use a tailor’s ham or roll to press the curve. If you don’t have one, you can roll a towel and give it the shape you need to fit the curve of the hood and press.

With the right sides of the fabric together, align the center of the hood to the center back of the coat. Pin along the neckline WITHOUT stretching the hood. You will see that the hood is shorter, and it does not go right to the edge. Pin from the middle to the sides.

TIP – If you find the layers are slipping, switch your presser foot. A walking foot is ideal, however have a look at the other suggestions on page 11 if you don’t have one.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Clip the curve and press the seam allowance open.

TIP – Use the very end of the scissors for maximum control. If you use mid-way through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

You may find your fabric is quite thick and that it is difficult to snip through this section with just the very tip of the scissors. Keep using the end of the scissors but do several small snips instead of one larger one, or snip through one layer at a time in order to make this easier.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the Side Front Linings to the Front Linings. You will need to stretch the piece with the inner curve (side front lining) to match the piece with outer curve (front lining) a little.

NOTE – If your fabric’s right and wrong sides look the same, make sure to assemble mirror pairs so you don’t end up with two right or two left sides.

NOTE – If your fabric has very little give and can’t be stretched enough, use the following method: stay stitch both sides of the princess seam just inside ½ inch. Make little snips on the inner curve of the side front piece about ¾ of the way to your stitching line. These little snips will allow your fabric to spread and match the outer curve.  Pin in place.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the curve and use a tailor’s ham or roll to press the curve. If you don’t have one, you can roll a towel and give it the shape you need to fit the curve and press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the Front Linings to the Front Facings along the inside curve.  

Start by pinning the straight sections (the top photo on the left), then the tail, then the curves. You may need to stretch the curves to fit slightly.

Stitch using a ½ seam allowance. Then press seam allowance open.

TIP- Go slowly around the curved areas and lift your presser foot as needed to reposition the fabric.

Repeat step 12.1 with the Back Lining and Side Back Linings pieces.

Pin the Back Facings right side to right side at center back. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the Back Lining to the inner curve of the Back Facings. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and press the seam towards the lining.

Pin the assembled Front Linings and Facings right side to right side with the Back Lining and Facing. Stitch the shoulder seams using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip and press the seams open.

Stitch the side seams using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin one Upper Sleeve Lining to an Under Sleeve Lining along the long inner curve edge. Stitch using a ½ seam allowance. Press the seam open. Repeat for the remaining Sleeve Lining.

Fold the Sleeve Linings so that the long sides of the upper sleeves and under sleeves are right sides together. Pin in place and stitch close each sleeve lining using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seams open the best you can using a tailor roll or a rolled towel if possible.

We are now going to insert the Sleeve Linings into the Coat Lining as we did for the Sleeves into the coat in step 6. Mark on each Sleeve the lines from the upper and under sleeve pattern pieces. Baste the top curve of the Sleeve, pin the Sleeve into the armhole. Ease & pin. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Remove any visible basting stitches and then sew a second row of stitches in the seam allowance to give the shoulder strength.

Pin the Hood Linings around the curved edge right side to right side and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Clip the curve of the seam and press open.

With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the hood facings at center back. Stitch using a ½ inch allowance and press the seam open.

Pin the Hood Facing to the Hood Lining right side to right side matching notches and seams. Stitch using a ½ seam allowance and press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabric together, align the center of the Hood Lining to the center back of the coat lining. Pin along the neckline WITHOUT stretching the hood. You will see that the hood is shorter, and it does not go right to the edge. Pin from the middle to the sides. Check that the ends of the hood meet at the same place on your lining as on your main coat fabric.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

TIP – If you find the layers are slipping, switch your presser foot. A walking foot is ideal, however have a look at the other suggestions on page 11 if you don’t have one. 

Clip seam and press towards the hood and away from the body.

If you are making the coat for yourself, or you have your model available, before proceeding with this step, try the coat on with the coat and lining together. It will feel odd as the lining & coat won’t be sitting perfectly flush together as they will once, they are stitched, but it will give you an opportunity to check the fit. 

Make sure to cross the front raw edge of the coat over to ½ inch past the button markings on the other side. This allows for the seam allowance with the facing and will show you what it will look like done up. 

Check the fitting advice on page 5 as to where the sleeves should fall and how it should fit.

If you need to make adjustments, do this now. Then proceed on with the rest of this step.

Pin the Button Loops/elastic out of the way onto the coat.

Pin the coat and lining together matching the raw edges of the facing all the way around the coat with the right sides of the fabric together. Take extra care to match the seam allowances of the neckline and side seams.  Ignore the arms for now.

Stitch all the way around the edge joining the two together and using a ½ seam allowance. Leave a 3-5 inches wide gap at the center back hem. Keep in mind that you will have to turn it the right way out through this hole.  If your fabric is bulky, leave a larger opening. 

TIP – Go slowly around the curved areas and lift your presser foot as needed to reposition the fabric.  

TIP – To get nice sharp corners where the neckline meets the hood, go slowly, and put the needle down when you get ½ inch from the edge. Then lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric before putting your presser foot down again.

Cut the corners and clip the curves. Make sure to snip in the corners were the hood meets the neckline.

TIP – You may find your fabric is quite thick and that it is difficult to snip through this section with just the very tip of the scissors. Keep using the end of the scissors but do several small snips instead of one larger one, or snip through one layer at a time in order to make this easier.

Fold the main fabric Sleeves raw ends about 1 inch towards the wrong side of the fabric.

Reach the left Sleeve around to the left lining. Slip the Lining over the Sleeve end where you folded it. Pin. The Sleeve end only should be right side to right side with the Lining over the Sleeve. It will look very odd & this is normal! Stitch all around the sleeve using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat with the other Sleeve.

Turn the coat right side out through the opening left at the bottom of the coat. The Sleeves should now fit neatly inside each other. Remove the pins holding the button loops/elastics in place. Press the coat carefully.

TIP – If you find that some seams are bulky and hard to press, go back inside and grade the seam allowance by trimming the layers of the seam allowance gradually.

If you have done the Button Loops, pin these near the coat edge so they are horizontal and lined up neatly. If you didn’t do these, skip to step 16.2.

NOTE – If you have made your Button Loops out of a heavier fabric such as wool, you may find they sag. If they do, top stitch them down along the same lines as your previous stitching to hold them in place.

Top stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, catching the Button Loops if you did these. Start on the hemline where one side front piece meets the front, go up the front, around the hood, down the other front, and stop again where the other side front meets the front. Technically you could continue all the way around the hem of the coat, however you will get a better finish if you don’t as top stitching around the hemline can make the hem puff a little as you move or as the fabric settles into place.

Stitch the turning gap in the back hem of the coat closed. I prefer to do this by hand to keep it neat and hidden. It also avoids the problem mentioned above if you were to top stitch it instead.

Top stitch both Sleeve hems using a ⅛ seam allowance.