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Home / Womens / Garments, Swimwear
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
5
Women's Bondi Bikini
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This bikini pattern is very flattering with a halter neck tie and diamond-shaped cut out with front bow detailing. It is fully-lined and has the option of a bikini or tankini length top as well as regular or high-waisted shorts.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your bust measurement to the size for your waist, then to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the bottom of the swimsuit using your hip measurement size.
- Bust adjustment – The swimsuit is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup).
- If your bust is below a sewing C cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well.
- If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial.
- Band adjustment – If you are at the top of the measurement in your size, you will find the band fits comfortably. If you are below the highest measurement within your size, you might need to take in the bands for a more snug and comfortable fit. The band should have negative ease but how much will depend on the stretch recovery of your fabric. Please adjust the band as needed at the muslin stage.
- Height Adjustment – This swimsuit is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may also find you need personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth, sway back, and/or bum.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A Muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
-
- Use an inexpensive lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams.
- If you want more support in the bust, you can add foam cups in between the main and lining fabric.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- ¼ inch Swim elastic vs regular elastic – regular elastic can be used in swimwear; however, it does break down and wear out faster. It is highly recommended to use swim elastic to prolong the life of the suit.
- OPTIONAL Foam cups – see fitting tips above
- Thread to match
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewDifficulty Level = Beginner
Sew your own super comfy and flattering swimwear with the fully-lined Bondi Bikini. The halter neck top with cross-over tie and diamond-shaped cut out creates a beautifully flattering shape. For extra coverage, choose the tankini option and high-waisted shorts band. This will become your go to swimwear pattern for all occasions!
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bikini
Tankini
Underbust
Regular shorts
High-waisted shorts
Shorts
Waist
Chest
Waist
Chest
Back rise
Front rise
Back rise
Front Rise
Waist
Hips
Leg opening
XXS
21.5
24.5
19.1
24.5
22.0
11.7
8.6
13.2
10.1
19.1
26.8
16.0
XS
23.3
26.0
20.4
26.0
23.0
12.1
8.8
13.6
10.3
20.4
28.4
16.6
S
24.1
27.6
21.1
27.6
24.0
12.3
9.1
13.8
10.6
21.1
30.0
17.3
M
25.9
29.2
23.0
29.2
25.6
12.5
9.4
14.0
10.9
23.0
31.5
18.1
L
27.7
30.7
25.0
30.7
27.5
12.8
9.7
14.3
11.2
25.0
33.1
19.0
XL
30.4
33.0
27.5
33
30.2
13.4
10.1
14.9
11.6
27.5
35.5
20.1
XXL
32.6
35.4
29.5
35.4
32.2
14.1
10.5
15.6
12.0
29.5
37.7
21.3
3XL
36.5
37.7
33.0
37.7
35.6
14.6
11.1
16.1
12.6
33.0
40.2
22.6
4XL
40.0
40.1
36.4
40.1
39.1
15.2
11.4
16.7
12.9
36.4
42.6
24.0
5XL
43.5
42.6
40
42.6
42.6
15.8
11.7
17.3
13.2
40.0
45.0
25.4
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support. It is recommended to use the main fabric for the lining, because it will be visible on the front tie.
Panel fabric – You can also add 4-way stretch power mesh to the bust cups for additional support.
Fabric Requirements 60 inch / 150 cm (in YARDS)
Bikini
Tankini
XXS – S
1.25
1.00
M
1.25
1.25
L – XL
1.50
1.25
XXL – 3XL
1.50
1.50
4XL – 5XL
1.75
1.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Bodice Options Shorts Options Tankini Bikini Regular-Waisted High-Waisted XXS – XS 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16, 18-19, 21-27 2-4, 6-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 13-14, 20-21, 26 2, 9, 13-14, 17-18, 20-21, 26 S 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16, 18-19,21-27 2-4, 6-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 13-14, 20-21, 26 2, 9, 13-14, 17-18, 20-21, 26 M 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16-19, 21-27 2-4, 6-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 13-14, 19-21, 26 2, 9, 13-14, 17-18, 20-21, 26 L 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16-19, 21-27 2-4, 5-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 13-14, 19-21,25-26 2, 9, 13-14, 17-21, 25-26 XL-XXL 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16-19, 21-27 2-4, 5-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 12-14, 19-21,25-27 2-3, 9-10, 12-14, 17-21, 25-27 3XL-5XL 2-5, 9-12, 14, 16-19, 21-27 2-4, 5-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 11-14, 19-21,25-27 2-3, 9-10, 12-14, 17-21, 25-27 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Bodice Options Shorts Options Tankini Bikini Regular-Waisted High-Waisted XXS – S 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16, 18-19, 21-27 2-4, 6-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 13-14, 20-21, 26 2, 9, 13-14, 17-18, 20-21, 26 M 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16, 18-19,21-27 2-4, 6-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 13-14, 20-21, 26 2, 9, 13-14, 17-18, 20-21, 26 L 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16-19, 21-27 2-4, 6-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 13-14, 19-21, 26 2, 9, 13-14, 17-18, 20-21, 26 XL-XXL 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16-19, 21-27 2-4, 5-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 13-14, 19-21,25-26 2, 9, 13-14, 17-21, 25-26 3XL-5XXL 2-4, 9-12, 14, 16-19, 21-27 2-4, 5-7, 10-12, 14, 18-19, 21, 23-27 4, 8, 12-14, 19-21,25-27 2-3, 9-10, 12-14, 17-21, 25-27 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Checklist:
Before cutting out, you need to decide which options you are going to use. The available options are:
Option
Description
What pattern pieces you’ll need
Top (select one)
Bikini
Halter neck bikini with regular waistband
● Center Front Bodice Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
● Front Bodice – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
● Back Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 1 on fold
● Side Front Bodice Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh (1x mirror image pair)
● Straps – Cut 2
● Bodice Front Band – Cut 1 on fold
● Bodice Back Band – Cut 1 on fold
Tankini
Halter neck bikini with deeper waistband
● Center Front Bodice Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
● Front Bodice – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
● Back Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power mesh cut 1 on fold
● Side Front Bodice Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh (1x mirror image pair)
● Straps – Cut 2
● Bodice Front Band – Cut 1 on fold
● Bodice Back Band – Cut 1 on fold
Shorts (select one)
Regular-Waisted Shorts
Shorts with a regular waistband
● Shorts – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
● Shorts Regular-Waisted Front Waistband – Cut 1 on fold
● Shorts Regular-Waisted Back Waistband – Cut 1 on fold
High-Waisted Shorts
Shorts with a deep waistband
● Shorts – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
● Shorts High-Waisted Front Waistband – Cut 1 on fold
● Shorts High-Waisted Back Waistband – Cut 1 on fold
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric.
- OPTIONAL POWERMESH – Cut each bodice piece out of Powermesh. Layer the Powermesh and lining and baste together. Treat each piece as the lining piece throughout instructions
- STRAPS – Fold straps lengthwise, pin, sew short edge and long edge. OPTIONAL- add elastic on the seam allowance, sew then turn the Strap right side out. Repeat with the other Strap
- MAIN BODICE – Sew gathering stitches between notches on both sides. Right sides together, pin the Bodice Back Band to the Bodice Front Band at the side seam, sew and repeat on the other side seam.
- BODICE LINING – Right sides together, pin the Side Front Bodice Lining to the Front Center Bodice Lining, sew and repeat on the other side. Repeat to attach the Side Front Bodice Lining to the Back Bodice Lining at the side seams.
- ASSEMBLING THE Bodice – Right sides together, pin the Strap to the Bodice Lining, baste, and repeat for other straps. Put Main Bodice right sides together with the Bodice Lining, sew all the way around except bottom edge. Pin the front neckline elastic to the top corner of Bodice Front lining and front tip of the tie and sew to seam allowance. Repeat on the other side, the outer edge and the back of the bodice, as well as the lower curve of the tie. Gather the bottom of the Front Bodice matching the Bodice Front Lining, baste.
- BODICE BAND – Right sides together, sew Bodice Front Band to Bodice Back Band. Fold the band in half right sides together, match raw edges, pin to the cut out of the Bodice Front Band. Sew around the V cut out, snip into the middle of the ‘V’, turn the Band right side out. Fold the Bodice Band in half, match the side seams right sides together, pin and sew. Cut elastic to match seam. Attach elastic to waistband seam. Turn the Bodice right side out match top edges, pin, and baste.
- ATTACHING THE BODICE BAND – Fold the Bodice in half marking the center of the back Bodice, repeat with the Bodice Band. Put the Bodice right side up then the Bodice Band on top matching the center points. Pin the rest of the Bodice to the Bodice Band and then sew together.
- SHORTS INSEAM AND RISE – With right sides together, fold one of the Shorts pieces in half, matching the inseam and stitch. Repeat for the other leg. Turn one leg right side out, put inside the other leg matching the rise seam and stitch together. Repeat for the shorts lining.
- ATTACHING THE SHORTS AND LINING – With the Shorts right side out and the lining wrong sides out, put the lining inside the main shorts, match the seams, pin, and baste around waist and each leg.
- SHORTS WAISTBAND – With the right sides together, pin the Shorts Front Waistband and Shorts Back Waistband at the side seam, sew both side seams. Fold the Waistband in half right sides together, mark the middle of the waistband. Quarter the Waistband. Overlap ends of the waistband elastic and sew, then quarter. Open Waistband and place elastic in the middle, on the line, pin and sew. Fold Waistband in half wrong sides together, match raw edges, pin, and baste.
- ATTACHING THE SHORTS Waistband – Mark quarter points in the shorts and the Waistband. Matching right sides of the Shorts and Waistband, match the quarter points and pin. Cut elastic to length of seam. Sew elastic in a circle. Quarter elastic and seam. Match quarter points and attach. Flip the Waistband up.
- HEM – Serge the bottom edge of both legs, fold hem to the wrong side and sew. Repeat on the other leg.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL – Adding Powermesh
Powermesh can be used to add extra support to the bodice. Cut each of the bodice pieces out of powermesh. Layer the powermesh and lining pieces and baste them together using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Then treat these layered fabrics as one piece. Throughout the tutorial the layered powermesh/lining pieces will be referred to as the lining pieces.
1 . Straps1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Strap in half lengthwise and serge along the short, angled end and the long end using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 1.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
1.1Fold the Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together and pin.
1.2Stitch along the angled, short end and continue down the long end of the Strap using a ⅜ inch seam allowance with a stretch stitch.
1.3Cut elastic the same length as the strap.
Pin the elastic to the seam allowance of the Strap.
NOTE – The elastic is added here to add extra support to the fabric for the tying and untying, as well as extra support for the bust.
1.4Stitch the elastic directly on the seam allowance using a zig zag or stretch stitch.
1.5Turn the Strap right side out.
TIP – Push the corners and edges out with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that they are crisp, and the corners are pointy.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the other Strap.
2 . Main Bodice2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 2.1 and 2.2 to gather the bottom of the Front Bodice pieces and then pin the Front Bodice pieces to the Back Bodice. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
2.1Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches on the bottom edge of the Bodice Front.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
NOTE – To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
2.2Repeat steps 2.1 for the other side.
2.3With the right sides together, pin the Back Bodice to the Front Bodice at the side seam.
2.4Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
2.5Repeat steps 2.3 to 2.4 to attach the other Front Bodice to the other side seam of the Back Bodice.
3 . Bodice Lining3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, pin the Side Bodice Front Lining to the Center Bodice Front Lining and the serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side. Then pin the Side Bodice Front Linings to the Back Bodice Lining at the side seams and serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
3.1With the right sides together, pin the Side Bodice Front Lining to the Center Front Bodice Lining.
3.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
3.3Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.2 for the other side.
3.4Repeat steps 2.3 to 2.5 to attach the Side Bodice Front Lining to the Bodice Back Lining at the side seams.
4 . Assembling the Bodice4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 4.1 to 4.3 and baste the Straps to the Bodice Lining. Then with the right sides together, pin the Bodice to the Bodice Lining. Serge the Bodice and Bodice Lining using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 4.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
4.1With the right sides together, pin the Strap to the Bodice Lining.
4.2Baste the Strap to the Bodice Lining using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
4.3Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 for the other Strap.
4.4Place the main Bodice on the Bodice Lining, with the right sides together. Pin them together around all sides except the bottom edge
4.5Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
NOTE – The Straps will be sewn in the short edges at the top of the bodice. Keep the straps out of the way when sewing the rest of the seams.
4.6Cut elastic the same length as the front neckline seam.
Pin elastic so it is taut to the seam.
NOTE – The elastic doesn’t need to be stretched, as we don’t want to distort the shape of the seam. It helps hold the fabric against the skin during wear and activities.
4.7Stitch the elastic directly onto the seam allowance using a zig zag or stretch stitch.
4.8Repeat steps 4.4 to 4.7 to add elastic the other side.
4.9Repeat steps 4.4 to 4.7 to add elastic to the armscye and upper back, and the bottom curve of the front tie.
4.10Turn the bodice right side out.
4.11Pin the bottom edges of the Bodice Back together.
4.12Gather the bottom of the Bodice Front to match the Bodice Front Lining.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather. Gently spread it out so that it is evenly gathered, and then continue pinning the Front Bodice to the Front Bodice Lining.
4.13Repeat step 4.12 to gather the other side of the Bodice Front.
4.14Baste along the bottom edge of the bodice using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
5 . Bodice Band5.0The pictures in this step show the tankini length band, however the steps are the same for either band.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, pin the Bodice Front Band to the Bodice Back Band then serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Follow steps 5.3 to 5.6 to stitch the v-shaped cut out. Pin the other side seam with the right sides together and the serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, then skip to step 5.9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
5.1With the right sides together, pin the Bodice Front Band to the Bodice Back Band.
5.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.3Fold the band in half lengthwise, with the right side together. Match up the raw edges and pin the cut out of the Bodice Front Band.
5.4Stitch along the V of the cut out, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.5Snip into the seam allowance at the middle of the cut out.
NOTE – Snip as close to the stitches as possible, without cutting into them.
5.6Turn the Bodice Band right side out.
5.7Fold the Bodice Band in half to match up the other side seam.
With the right sides together, pin the Bodice Front Band to the Bodice Back Band.
5.8Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.9Turn the Bodice Band right side out, matching up the raw edges and pin.
NOTE – The raw edges of the Bodice Front Band will be pinned together, and the raw edges of the Bodice Back Band will be pinned together.
5.10Baste the top edges of the Bodice Band together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
6 . Attaching the Bodice Band6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, pin the Bodice to the Bodice Band and then serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
6.1Fold the Bodice in half and mark the center of the Back Bodice Back with a pi
6.2Fold the Bodice Band in half and mark the center of the Back Bodice Band with a pin.
6.3Place the Bodice right side up, and then place the Bodice Band on top. Match up the center points and side seams and pin them together. Continue pinning the Bodice to the Bodice Band.
6.4Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Repeat steps 4.6 to 4.7 to add elastic to the band seam.
6.5Turn the bodice right side out.
7 . Shorts Inseam and Rise7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, fold the Shorts piece in half and match up the inseam. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side. Turn one leg right side out and slide it into the leg that is wrong side out. Pin along the rise seam and then serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, then skip to step 8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
7.1With the right side together, fold one of the Shorts pieces in half. Match up the inseam and pin together.
7.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
7.3Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 for the other leg.
7.4Turn one of the legs right side out. Then slide it into the other leg, that should have the wrong side out. Match up the rise seam, and pin.
7.5Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
7.6Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 for the. Shorts Lining.
8 . Attaching the Shorts and Lining8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Do not use a serger for this step.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
8.1With the Shorts right side out, and the Shorts Lining wrong side out, slide the Shorts Lining into the main Shorts. Match up the seams and pin together.
8.2Baste the Shorts and Shorts Lining together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8.3Match the raw edges of one of the leg openings and pin the Shorts to the Shorts Lining.
8.4Baste the Shorts and Shorts Lining together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8.5Repeat steps 8.3 to 8.4 for the other leg.
9 . Shorts Waistband9.0The pictures in this step show the High-Waisted Waistband, however the steps are the same for either Waistband.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, pin the Shorts Front Waistband to the Shorts Back Waistband and then serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side, then skip to step 9.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
9.1With the right sides together, pin the Shorts Front Waistband to the Shorts Back Waistband along the side seam.
9.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
9.3Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 for the other side seam.
9.4Fold the Waistband in half with the right sides together. Mark a line all the way around the middle of the Waistband using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
9.5Match up the side seams, to find the center point and then mark for the Front Waistband and the Back Waistband.
9.6Match up the Front Waistband and Back Waistband center points to find the quarter points on each side.
NOTE – The side seams are not at the middle of the Waistband. The quarter points will be on the Back Waistband.
9.7Cut elastic to the length of the top, folded edge of the Waistband.
Overlap the ends of the waistband elastic by ½ inch then pin.
9.8Stitch the ends of the elastic together using a zig zag stitch.
9.9Fold the elastic in half and mark the center points of the elastic. Fold in half again to find the quarter points and mark.
9.10Unfold the Waistband. With the wrong side out, slide it inside the elastic. Line up the elastic under the midline made in step 9.4. Match up the center and quarter points and pin together.
9.11Stretch the elastic between quarter points and continue pinning the elastic to the Waistband.
9.12Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic using a zig zag or stretch stitch.
9.13Fold the Waistband in half with the right side out. Match up the raw edges of the waistband and pin them together.
NOTE – The raw edges of the Front Waistband will be pinned together, and the raw edges of the Back Waistband will be pinned together.
9.14Baste the raw edges of the Waistband together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
10 . Attaching the Shorts Waistband10.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Mark the quarter points of the Shorts and the Waistband. With the right sides together, pin the Waistband to the Shorts. Serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, then skip to step 11.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
10.1Fold the Shorts in half, matching up the rise seams, and mark the quarter points with pins.
10.2Fold the Waistband in half, matching up the side seams, and mark the quarter points with pins.
10.3With the Shorts right side out, and the Waistband wrong side out, slide the Waistband over the Shorts. Match up the quarter points and pin them together. Continue pinning the Shorts to the Waistband.
10.4Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
10.5Cut elastic to the length of this seam.
Using the technique in step 9, sew the elastic into a circle. Mark quarter points of the elastic and the waistband seam. Match quarter points and attach elastic to the waistband.
10.6Flip the Waistband up, so that it is right side out.
11 . Hem11.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – OPTIONAL – Serge the bottom edge of each leg, without cutting off any fabric. Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side, and then stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and stretch stitch, coverstitch, or twin needle.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
11.1OPTIONAL – Serge the bottom edge of each leg without cutting of any fabric.
11.2Fold the hem of the leg ½ inch to the wrong side and pin.
11.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and stretch stitch, coverstitch, or twin needle.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm works well for hemming swimwear.
11.4Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.3 for the other leg.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Bondi Bikini is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbondibikini.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewDifficulty Level = Beginner
Sew your own super comfy and flattering swimwear with the fully-lined Bondi Bikini. The halter neck top with cross-over tie and diamond-shaped cut out creates a beautifully flattering shape. For extra coverage, choose the tankini option and high-waisted shorts band. This will become your go to swimwear pattern for all occasions!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bikini
Tankini
Underbust
Regular shorts
High-waisted shorts
Shorts
Waist
Chest
Waist
Chest
Back rise
Front rise
Back rise
Front Rise
Waist
Hips
Leg opening
XXS
21.5
24.5
19.1
24.5
22.0
11.7
8.6
13.2
10.1
19.1
26.8
16.0
XS
23.3
26.0
20.4
26.0
23.0
12.1
8.8
13.6
10.3
20.4
28.4
16.6
S
24.1
27.6
21.1
27.6
24.0
12.3
9.1
13.8
10.6
21.1
30.0
17.3
M
25.9
29.2
23.0
29.2
25.6
12.5
9.4
14.0
10.9
23.0
31.5
18.1
L
27.7
30.7
25.0
30.7
27.5
12.8
9.7
14.3
11.2
25.0
33.1
19.0
XL
30.4
33.0
27.5
33
30.2
13.4
10.1
14.9
11.6
27.5
35.5
20.1
XXL
32.6
35.4
29.5
35.4
32.2
14.1
10.5
15.6
12.0
29.5
37.7
21.3
3XL
36.5
37.7
33.0
37.7
35.6
14.6
11.1
16.1
12.6
33.0
40.2
22.6
4XL
40.0
40.1
36.4
40.1
39.1
15.2
11.4
16.7
12.9
36.4
42.6
24.0
5XL
43.5
42.6
40
42.6
42.6
15.8
11.7
17.3
13.2
40.0
45.0
25.4
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support. It is recommended to use the main fabric for the lining, because it will be visible on the front tie.
Panel fabric – You can also add 4-way stretch power mesh to the bust cups for additional support.
Fabric Requirements 60 inch / 150 cm (in YARDS)
Bikini
Tankini
XXS – S
1.25
1.00
M
1.25
1.25
L – XL
1.50
1.25
XXL – 3XL
1.50
1.50
4XL – 5XL
1.75
1.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ¼ inch Swim elastic vs regular elastic – regular elastic can be used in swimwear; however, it does break down and wear out faster. It is highly recommended to use swim elastic to prolong the life of the suit.
- OPTIONAL Foam cups – see fitting tips above
- Thread to match
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
