Women's Brooklyn Joggers

Brooklyn Joggers

Difficulty Level = Beginner

These joggers are the epitome of comfort and style. They are loose fitting with a slightly dropped crotch. The legs gather slightly into deep cuff bands. The ribbed pockets give it that little something extra.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• These are loose fitting joggers with a slightly dropped crotch, with the legs gathering slightly into cuffs. The pants have a negative ease at the waist. This means the finished garment measurements will be tighter than the size chart for each size. They are designed for knit (stretch) fabric so they can stretch around your body and fit comfortably without falling down.
• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – Make sure to use your waist and hip measurement to select the best size. If you are at the bottom of a size range, you may find you need to take the garment in slightly at the side seam. Do this before adding the waistband. If you fall into a different size for your hip measurement, grade between the waist and hips on the pattern piece (draw a smooth curved line between the two points), and then follow the leg line down from the hip for the hip size. You will also want to double check your selected sizes against the finished garment measurements chart before cutting.
• Height adjustments – The ladies joggers are drafted for a height of 5 foot 6 inches and an inseam of 33 inches. If your height or inseam is above or below 5 foot 6, 33 inches, you will need to make the following changes:
  • Measure 3 inches up from the bottom of the leg (without the cuff) and shorten/lengthen. 
  • Shorten/lengthen the top of the cuff.
  • Add/remove from the front and back rise. This is a high-rise pant, meant to sit above the belly button. If your muslin isn’t sitting comfortably in this spot, add or remove height throughout the rise.  
• Muslin – I highly recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first. That way, you can play about with the rise to get it perfect for you, and then you’ll have a master crotch line you can use on this and many other pants or shorts in the future. I would recommend the following to muslin these joggers:
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out all pieces except the pocket band and pocket bag (pocket is needed). Label each piece with tailors chalk or fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Sew up the Cuff and check the fit before basting it to the leg. Adjust accordingly. If your fabric doesn’t have enough stretch add into the width of the cuff. Check the Pocket Band is going to fit along the curve of the pocket. If your fabric doesn’t have enough stretch, you may need to add length onto the pocket band. Check the fit of your Waistband. Again, if your fabric doesn’t have enough stretch you can add into the length for a better fit.
  • Baste your pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board. 

• Your jogger fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric with at least 30% stretch. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, cotton lycra, viscose elastine, ponte, scuba, cotton interlock, stretch velour and stretch French terry. A lighter weight fabric will fit a bit looser and blouson over the cuff more.  Do not use a woven fabric.
• Waistband, Pocket and Cuffs – You’ll need ribbing/fabric with at least a 65% stretch with a good recovery. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 65% longer than its original length, then it has at least 65% stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 3.3 inches.
• The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your joggers maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
• Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.

Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS) 

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

** If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• 1.5 inch wide Elastic – approximately 1.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
• Thread to match

Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

Cutting Checklist:

• Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) 
• Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Cuffs – Ribbing cut 2
• Pocket – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Pocket Bag – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Pocket Band – Ribbing cut 2
• Waistband – Ribbing cut 1

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching is two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch (can be done with twin needle) – Basting ¼ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

Sewing –

1. POCKETS – Fold the Pocket Band in half, wrong sides together, and press. Right sides together, stitch the Pocket Band to the Pocket Bag along the shorter curved edge. Flip the Pocket Band up and press. OPTIONAL topstitch. Pin the Pocket Bag to the pocket, right sides both facing up. Trim off the band excess. Baste together. Right sides together, match pocket and Front Leg at markings. Pin and stitch. Flip the pocket out and press. OPTIONAL topstitch. Repeat for the other side.
2. INSEAM – Right sides together, stitch the Front Leg to the Back Leg along the inseam. Repeat for the other leg.
3. SIDE SEAM – Right sides together, stitch the Front Leg to the Back Leg along the side seam. Repeat for the other leg.
4. FRONT AND BACK RISE – Turn one of the legs right side out, keeping the other wrong side out. Insert one leg inside the other, right sides together. Stitch together along the curved edge.
5. CUFFS – Fold and stitch the Cuff together. Press the seam allowance to one side. Fold the Cuff in half, wrong sides together. Mark quarter points on your Cuff and pant leg. Insert the leg, right side facing out, into the Cuff, matching quarter points. Pin and stitch together. Fold the Cuff down and away from the leg. Press seam allowance down. Repeat for the other leg.
6. WAISTBAND – Fold the Waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch short ends together. Press seam allowance to one side. Fold the Waistband in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Stitch elastic together to form a circle. Insert the elastic inside the Waistband at the fold. Pin just beneath the elastic to keep it in place and stitch ⅜ inch below the elastic all the way around the Waistband. Mark the quarter points of the Waistband and the top edge of the joggers. With the joggers right side out, place the Waistband over the top of the joggers, matching raw edges and pin at quarter points. Stretch the Waistband to match the joggers and continue pinning together. Stitch together. Flip the Waistband up and away from the joggers. Press the seam allowance down.

Congratulations, your Brooklyn Joggers are done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbrooklynjoggers.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

© Copyright 2021

All Rights Reserved