Women's Carli Coatigan

Carli Coatigan

Difficulty Level = Beginner

A mix between a coat and a cardigan, the Carli Coatigan is super comfy with a loose fit, long sleeves, and finishes either thigh or calf length. It can be worn without a belt to create a flowy waterfall effect in the front. Or, wear it crossed over with a belt.

Carli’s high back collar and lack of side seams emphasize the front flow of the front waterfall effect. The back darts help cinch in the waist – add the optional belt to pull in the waist even more. The optional pockets are perfect for keeping your hands warm.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

The Coatigan is a loose fitting garment designed to be worn over your clothing. The back darts with optional belt add shape to the waist.

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – Choose your size from the size chart measurements. Waist, hip and chest finished measurements are bigger than the size chart due to the loose, wrap around, waterfall effect. If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your chest measurement. That way the armhole, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your chest size and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the back waist (indicated by the back dart) – draw a gentle line between both sizes at the back waist.
• Adjusting bust – The ladies sizes are designed with a C cup bust (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). Given that the Coatigan is designed for knit/stretch fabrics and the front has a waterfall lapel, it will be quite forgiving. Cup sizes A to D should fit well in it. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). There are several great tutorials online how to do this with knit. Our favorite ones are in the link at the bottom of this section.
• Adjusting height – The Coatigan is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may need to add/remove length at the armscye, the hem and the sleeves. Follow this tutorial to adjust through the body.
• Sleeve length – Compare the finished measurements of the sleeve to your model’s measurements. If you need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve, add/remove length half way down the sleeve.
• Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting so you most likely will not need to make any adjustments. After you’ve made your muslin, if you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller refer to our adjustment tutorial here.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this blouse:
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the front/back and one sleeve. Label each piece with tailors chalk/fabric pen so you know what each piece is. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!

• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

• Your fabric for this pattern needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight, however best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight 2-way stretch Great examples are sweater knits, jersey, stretch fleece, and stretch French terry. Warmer and heavier fabrics such as sweater knits, hacci knits, stretch wool and interlock will give a snugger, cozier look.
• The other property to consider is how open the weave is. A tighter weave such as jersey will give a more solid look than a more open weave such as a stretch wool or some sweater knits which can look more like a knitted garment.
• Your fabric will need to have at least 30% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of unstretched fabric should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.

Fabric Requirements 60 inch / 150cm wide fabric (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, and tape measure.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

Cutting Checklist:

• Bodice – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Sleeve – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• OPTIONAL Pockets – Cut 2
• OPTIONAL Belt Loops – Cut 2
• OPTIONAL Belt – Cut 2

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch

Preparation –

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric.

Sewing –

1. BACK DARTS – Right sides together, match dart markings. Stitch from the center of the dart to the folded edge of the fabric. Clip into the middle of the dart. Press toward center back. Repeat for back dart on other Bodice.
2. OPTIONAL POCKETS – Press bottom and side edges of Pocket ⅜ inch to the wrong side. Press top edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to raw edge along top of Pocket. Align pocket on front of Coatigan.  Topstitch along sides and bottom. Repeat for pocket on other Bodice.
3. BACK SEAM – Right sides together, stitch center back seam. Press to one side. Repeat for back neck seam.
4. SHOULDER AND NECK SEAM – Starting at one side, match and pin shoulder seam and center back seams. Repeat for second side. Stitch along entire seam and press the seam allowance toward the back bodice.
5. SLEEVES – Create a memory hem by pressing ½ inch to the wrong side. Unfold memory hem. Align and sew underarm seam. Mark the center of the Sleeve head. Right sides together, slide the Sleeve into the Coatigan, matching the underarm seam with the marking, and the pin with the shoulder seam. Sew sleeve in place. Repeat for second Sleeve.
6. OPTIONAL BELT – Fold Belt Loop piece as double fold bias tape and topstitch closed. Fold short ends under ¼ inch and press. Align on Coatigan per pattern markings. Zig-zag stitch along both short ends. Repeat for second Belt Loop. Right sides together, sew short ends of Belt pieces. Fold the belt in half, right sides together, matching up the long raw edges and stitch, leaving a 2-inch gap. Clip corners and turn right sides out. Press and topstitch.
7. HEM – Refold memory hem on sleeve and stitch. Press top neck edge, both front edges, and bottom edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Stitch close to the folded edge all the way around.

Congratulations, your Carli Coatigan is done. Enjoy!

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpcarlicoatigan.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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