Women's Dora Dress

Stay Stitching

 Stay stitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the waist panels won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Stay stitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stay stitch the Front Skirt at the waist, starting at the center and stitching out towards each side seam in the direction of the arrows.

Stay stitch the Back Skirt pieces at the waist following the direction of the arrows.

Repeat steps 0.1 – 0.2 if you are sewing Skirt Lining pieces.

If you are doing pockets, skip to step 2. If you are not doing pockets, follow along below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge each of the Back Skirts right sides together to the Front Skirt along the side seams. Then skip to step 3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. 

With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin one of the Back Skirts to the Skirt Front along the side seam. 

Stitch together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half.

TIP – Trimming helps hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. This gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Stitch again a ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Press the seam allowance to the back

Repeat steps 1.1 – 1.5 to stitch the other Back Skirt to the Front Skirt at the other side seam.

Skip to step 3.

If you are doing pockets, follow along below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the pocket right sides together to each skirt side seam at the pocket notch. Do step 2.5 to clip the seam allowance flat. Press the seam allowance towards the pocket. Place the front and back skirt pieces together and serge each side seam including around the pocket using a ½ inch seam allowance. Stitch the corners of the pockets on a regular machine. Then skip to step 3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

We are going to do a French seam to attach the pockets to the skirt.

Place a pocket piece wrong sides together (right sides out) with one side of the Skirt Front so that the top edge of the pocket lines up with the pocket notch on the pattern piece.

Stitch the edge of the pocket to the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half along the pocket section of the raw edge only. DO NOT trim all the way down the garment side seam.

Open the pocket up and press the seam allowance towards the pocket.

Flip the pocket over so the right sides are together and press well along the seam.

Sew again along the edge of the pocket with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

There will now be a little fold on the top and bottom of the pocket.

Snip this piece parallel to the top of the pocket, and even with the edge, so that the fabric will lay flat. Don’t cut past the pocket. 

Flip the pocket over and press the seam well.

TIP – Edge stitch along the pocket and skirt seam. This will hide the raw edges and catch the seam allowance, so it all lays flat in the finished garment. To do this, keep the pocket piece flipped away from the skirt. Edge stitch between ⅛ and ¼ inch from the seam line. 

Repeat steps 2.1 – 2.5 for the other 4 pocket pieces so that there is a pocket attached to each side of the Skirt Front and Skirt Back pieces. 

Make sure as you attach each pocket that the pockets on the Front and Back line up with each other.

Once you have the pockets attached to the Skirt Front and Skirt Back pieces, we will put it all together. 

Place the Skirt Front and Skirt Back pieces with the wrong sides together, matching up the pockets, top and bottom of your skirt pieces. Pin.

Starting at the top of the side seam, sew until you reach the top of the pocket. Continue until you have stitched a ¼ inch onto the top of the pocket.

Put the needle down into the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot so you are facing down the pocket, drop the presser foot, and continue around the pocket, still sewing with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Once you are ¼ inch onto the bottom piece again, pivot until you are stitching down the side. Sew all the way to the bottom of the side seam.

Trim the seam allowances in half to neaten.

Flip the garment so that the right sides are now together. Press well, ensuring the seam allowances are at the exact center of the folds. Again, match up the tops and bottoms of the garment and the pockets.

TIP – After turning through, if the seam allowance doesn’t sit flat at the corner where pocket meets the garment, turn it back the right way out, snip into the seam allowance towards the seam and then try again.

For each side seam, sew down the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance from the top, pivoting around the pocket and back down the side.

Press the pockets and seam towards the front.

Repeat steps 2.7 – 2.13 on the other side seam.

If you have a preferred method of stitching darts, do this now. Otherwise, follow below.

Lay the Front Lining piece wrong side up on the ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with the fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the waist dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep the pins in place.

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. Lift the pattern piece out of the way, leaving the three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

Draw the dart in between the corner point using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Remove the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With the right sides together, fold the fabric down the centerline of the dart and press.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand. Check the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.

Press the dart toward the side seam.

Repeat steps 3.1 – 3.6 for the waist darts on the Back Lining, Front Bodice and Back Bodice pattern pieces. Press the waist darts on the Back Lining towards the middle (opposite to the main fabric).

Repeat again for the bust darts on the Front Lining and Front Bodice pattern pieces as well. For the bust darts on the main pieces, press the dart downwards towards the waist. On the lining pieces press the bust dart up towards the shoulders (opposite to the main fabric).

NOTE – Pressing the darts on the lining in the opposite direction to the main pieces, will help the darts sit neatly when the main and lining are attached.

With right sides together, pin the Back Lining pieces to the Front Lining at the shoulders.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open.

With right sides together, pin the Back Bodice pieces to the Front Bodice piece at the shoulders.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open.

If you are not doing the cap sleeve, skip to step 6. If you are doing the cap sleeve, follow below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the bottom edge of each of the sleeves using ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 5.2.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow the steps below

Fold the sleeve hem under ¼ inch and press.

Fold the hem under ¼ inch again and press. 

Turn the sleeve over, with right sides facing up, topstitch in place.

If you are not doing a gathered sleeve head, skip to step 5.5. If you are doing a gathered sleeve head, follow along below.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches.

Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ¼ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start at one notch and sew to the next. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo). 

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier. 

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have! 

NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.

Fold the cap sleeve in half and mark the center with a pin.

Match the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam, right sides together, and pin.

If you are not doing the gathered sleeve head, continue to pin the sleeve head to the bodice and skip to step 5.8. 

If you are doing the gathered sleeve head, pin the ends of the sleeve to the notches on the bodice.

Find a pair of bobbin thread and very gently pull on both equally to gather the cap sleeve until it fits between the notches. Distribute the gathers.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Do not serge this as we need the seam allowance intact for the next step (stitch using a regular sewing machine only).

Fold the sleeve into the garment so it is right sides together. This keeps it out of the way for the next steps where we finish the armhole.

If you gathered the sleeve head, remove your gathering stitches now by pulling on the bobbin threads until they come all the way out.

In this step, we will be stitching the neck and armholes right sides together, then pulling the garment through on itself in the direction of the arrows. The bodice will then be right sides out and finished along the neck and armhole. If you have done the sleeves, they will then pop through all completed.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the bodice right sides together with the lining. Serge the neckline and armhole using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below

Place the bodice right sides together with the lining.

Line up the shoulder seams, neckline, and all raw edges.

Pin in place along the neckline and armholes.

NOTE – If you have done the sleeves, make sure to keep them inside the bodice and do not catch them in the seams during this step. The only part of the sleeve you will be sewing over is the raw edge where it attaches to the bodice. The rest should be loose and free inside the bodice.

Stitch the neckline and armholes using a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you did the sleeves, take care not to catch them when you stitch the neckline

The neck and armhole seams are all curved so we will need to clip into the seam allowances to open them up so they sit flat when you turn the garment right sides out.

If you have pinking shears, trim the seam allowances in half using these.

If you don’t have pinking shears, trim the seam allowances to neaten. Snip halfway into the seam allowance at regular intervals into all three seams (approximately every 1 to 1 ½ inches)

Turn the garment right sides out.

To do this, put your arm into the garment from the front waistline, up through the shoulder seam and into the back of the garment. Grab the back waistline and pull it through to the front. Repeat to turn through the other back side.

Depending on the size you are doing, you may find it easier to poke your back lining pieces through the shoulder area first, then pull it through from the front.

If you have done the sleeves, when you turn the garment through, the sleeves will pop right sides out too.

Press well.

The garment should sit smooth and flat along the neckline and armholes. If it does not, turn it through and snip a little further into the seam allowances. Do not snip too close to the seam or you will leave a hole.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the lining side seams right sides together and repeat to serge the bodice side seams right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 8.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow below

We are going to stitch the lining and bodice side seams together in one line.

To do this, fold the bodice so it is right sides together.

Lift the lining out of the way. Clip or pin the bodice right sides together. Do not catch the lining in the pins.

Lift both the front and back lining up and pin or clip these right sides together.

This should now form one long seam from the lining raw edge down to the bodice raw edge.

Stitch the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open.

Repeat steps 7.1 – 7.5 with the other side seam.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the bodice and the skirt right sides together and pin. Flip the bodice lining up and out of the way. Serge the bodice to the skirt using a ½ inch seam allowance, keeping the lining free. Then skip to step 8.3.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow below.

Lay the skirt right side up. Lay the bodice on top right side down (so the skirt and bodice are right sides together). Flip the bodice lining up and out of the way as best you can.

Match the bottom edge of the bodice to the top edge of the skirt, lining the bodice side seams up with the skirt side seams, pin.

TIP – While pinning and sewing, keep the bodice on top, and the skirt underneath. Sew slowly and ease the skirt around underneath the bodice as you sew.  Take care that the skirt does not pull against the sewing machine as you sew. You are stitching a straight edge to a curved edge here. It is extremely easy (even with stay stitching on the skirt pieces) to pull it out of shape. If you do accidentally stretch the skirt while sewing (or it has stretched in a previous step) and the skirt is too big for the bodice, adjust the side seams of the skirt so it fits to the bodice, then continue.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

With wrong side facing up, press the bodice lining under a ½ inch along the waist seam and along the center back seams.

Press the raw edges of the skirt waist up towards the bodice. 

FIT CHECK – We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the bodice.

• If you measure at the top of your size range, the dress should fit exactly.

• If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the back seam before continuing.
• We recommend trying the dress on now and pinning the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
• If it fits as you wish, continue.
• If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check that you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge both back edges of the center back skirts. Do not remove any seam allowance, just serge to finish. Then continue with step 9.1.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow along below.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zipper. If you use a regular zipper, or don’t install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished bodice will be too big. To help with this, we’ve made a short video.

Read through the steps below, then watch the video here.

Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.

Unzip the invisible zipper and place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.

When the zipper is closed the teeth of the zipper will curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew.

I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat.

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zipper a little to make it easier to attach.

With wrong sides facing up, press a ½ inch seam allowance from the top of your bodice (main fabric and lining) and the center back skirt panel to approximately half way down the skirt (just needs to be past where the zipper ends).

Repeat for the other side of the dress.

With the dress right sides facing up, flip the bodice lining up out of the way. You’ll be attaching the zipper to the main bodice (not the lining) and skirt.

Unfold the seam allowance. With the right zipper tape on the left side of the dress, right sides together (zipper teeth facing in towards your bodice), line the zipper up with the top of the bodice. Match the zipper stop to the top of the seam where the main bodice and lining join. Pin in place.

TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zip on the correct side of the dress, and that they are facing right sides together. 

TIP – Add Wonder Under Tape to the zipper instead of using pins. This will help hold it in place.

Shorten the zipper if necessary, to match the recommended zipper length. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop it from opening below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zipper to the other.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can.  

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zip to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper as close to the zipper pull as you can.

Close the zipper. You will then be able to check that your stitches are correct and the zipper can close easily.

Place a pin in the zipper tape where the bodice meets the skirt and at the end of the zip where your stitching ends. This will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when you sew it to the opposite side of the dress.

Open the zipper. Repeat steps 9.3 – 9.4 with the left zipper tape on the right side of the dress.

It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards. That way the zipper won’t slip or move and will be aligned correctly.

Trim the excess off the top of the zipper.

TIP – Check that you can close the zipper properly before moving onto the next step.

Open the zipper. Flip it out so the seam allowance is flat.

Flip the bodice lining back down over the top of the bodice so right sides are facing together. You will be sandwiching the zipper between the bodice and the lining.

Make sure the bottom raw edge of the bodice lining is still flipped upwards. The folded edge of the bodice lining should match with the waist seam between the bodice and skirt.

The top tip of the zipper tape should be folded into the seam allowance so that it just disappears into the garment when it is completed.

Pin.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching ¼ inch in from the raw edge.

Remember to keep the bodice lining waist seam allowance folded up and check that the skirt waist seam allowance is folded up and caught between the bodice and the lining. Be careful not to sew over the zipper teeth.

TIP – If you used an invisible zipper foot in step 9.3 -9.4, make sure to change to a regular zipper foot so you can use a ¼ inch seam allowance rather than the full ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat for the opposite side of the bodice.

Turn the bodice lining over to the inside of your dress. The bodice lining seams will now be enclosed.

Lift the zipper tape out of the way near the waist seam so the raw edge of the back seam allowance can be seen underneath.

Clip halfway into the seam allowance of the main bodice approximately ½ inch above where the bodice joins the skirt. This is so the seam allowance below this spot can be turned under on the next step.

Fold the seam allowance on the side of the zipper over on itself, so the raw edge is hidden between the zipper and the seam allowance, pin the seam allowance to the zipper tape and press.

The goal is to hide the raw edges so that the inside of the skirt is completely finished.

This is a very narrow section of seam allowance, so this can be a bit tricky. If you have them, pin using dress maker’s pins or glass head pins (not plastic head pins). That way you can press with the pins in place to make it easier. Make sure to put a pressing cloth or clean tea towel over the pins before pressing so they don’t mark your iron.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching as close to the folded edge as possible.

Repeat steps 9.10 – 9.12 for the other side of the skirt zipper.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the skirt right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back as close to the zipper as you can. Then, skip to step 11.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – We are going to do a French seam to stitch the skirt back together below the zipper. It’s slightly different to the previous French seam as we must first detach the seam allowance from the zip. Follow along below.

Turn the dress the wrong side out. Clip into the Center Back Skirt seam allowance, just under the zipper stitching. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.

TIP – Aim to cut approximately ⅛ inch / 1-2mm below the zip stitching and approximately ⅛ inch / 1-2mm away from the seam. If you snip too far, you will have a hole so err on the side of caution. You can always come back and snip a little more if you find your seam isn’t lying flat.

Turn the dress right side out.

Pin the Center Back Skirt panels together (wrong sides together).

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances in half.

Turn wrong side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. 

TIP – You want to start stitching as close to the bottom of the zipper stitching as possible. Use your zipper foot to get really close. The goal is to make the seam look continuous from the zipper downwards when wearing the finished garment.

Lay the dress wrong side facing up.

Pin the outside of the bodice along the waistline. Make sure the bodice lining seam allowance is folded up, so as you pin the raw edges of the skirt and lining are pinned.

If using a sewing machine for this step, pin from the right side of the garment, directly on top of the seam between the bodice and skirt, then skip to step 11.4.

If you are going to hand sew the lining to the dress, pin from the wrong side of the garment and continue below. (Step 11.2)

HAND STITCHING: Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the bodice lining to the skirt seam allowance. The fabric will be folded under a ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to the finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the skirt to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through. The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between a ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch. 

To end, create a loop for the needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

Skip to step 11.5.

MACHINE STITCHING: If you are machine stitching this step, place the garment in your sewing machine with the bodice facing upwards (lining underneath). 

Line the seam where the waist meets the bodice up with the needle.

Press the seam open and carefully stitch directly on top of this seam. This is called “stitching in the ditch” and the aim is as invisible a seam as possible.

OPTIONAL – If you are using a different thread for your topstitching, change it now. Topstitch a ¼ inch from the edge along the neckline and armholes.

FIT CHECK – Try the garment on and check you are happy with the length. Adjust as required and continue below.

If you would like to add horsehair braid to your skirt hem, skip to step 13. Otherwise for a plain hem, follow along below. 

Turn the hem under a ¼ inch and press.

Turn the hem under another ¼ inch and press. The raw edges will now be enclosed in the folds. 

Topstitch the hem in place by stitching close to the folded edge. 

TIP – You want the stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the skirt as much as possible so it looks nice and neat from the outside. To do this, use the presser foot or a marking on the footplate on your sewing machine to line up the fabric so you get a nice even stitch all the way around.

OPTIONAL – If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your dress a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot, you can sew the hem by machine.

Adding horsehair braid will add structure to your hemline.

Lay the skirt with the wrong sides facing up. Match the horsehair braid edge to the raw edge of the skirt.

Pin in place.

Topstitch along the bottom raw edge as close to the edge of the horsehair as you can.

Fold the hem by the width of the horsehair braid. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the edge of the fabric.

OPTIONAL – If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your dress a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem stitch foot you can sew the hem by machine.