Women's Dreamy Drape Top

Dreamy Drape

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The Dreamy Drape Top is super comfortable and totally on-trend. 

Includes options of either a waistband or an open diagonal hemline. Three sleeve options including no sleeves (elbow-length), three-quarter sleeves (mid-forearm), and long sleeves (to the wrist).

Also includes full beginner-friendly tutorials for either an easy simple t-shirt style neckband, or a beautifully-finished neck binding method.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

The Dreamy Drape Top is extremely wide. The finished garment chest measurement is roughly twice your chest measurement. This is correct. This is what gives the garment its drape. The diagonal hemline is completely open from under the arm downwards. This means you will need to layer it over other clothing if you do not want to see the torso when moving.

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries & stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – 
  • Diagonal Hem OPTION – There is no finished garment measurement for the diagonal hem option waistline. The garment is completely open from under the arms downwards so there is no traditional ‘waistline’. For this option, you can discard the waist measurements and just go by your height and chest measurements.
  • Waistband OPTION – If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your bust/chest measurement. That way the armhole, bust and neckline will sit correctly. If you are doing the diagonal hem, you don’t need to make any other adjustments. If you are doing the waistband option, you will need to use the correct waistband for your waist measurement and grade the Front/Back from the side seam to the correct waist size so that the waistband fits comfortably. Print your pattern with both your chest and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the waist, as needed (draw a gentle line between both sizes at the waist). 
• Height adjustment – The ladies sizes are designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller or shorter, you may need to lengthen/shorten as necessary to get a good fit. There are lengthen/shorten lines on the ladies sizes. Add or remove what you need below the line. For the diagonal hem, redraw a straight line from the bottom of the side seam (where the lengthen/shorten line is), to where the bottom of the point now is. For the waistband option, gently smooth out the curve where you have lengthened the top.
• Bust adjustment – This pattern has been created for a sewing C cup bust. Given it is designed for knit/stretch fabrics and it has a large draped look, the sizing will be quite forgiving. Cup sizes A to D should fit well in it. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). There are several great tutorials online how to do this with knit. Our favorite ones are pinned in the link below.
• Sleeve length – There are three sleeve options (no sleeve, ¾ sleeve or long sleeve). The no sleeve option is designed to sit at the elbow due to the batwing design of the top. The ¾ length sleeve sits mid-way down the forearm. The long sleeve will come all the way to the wrist.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. 
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the Front and Back. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board. 

You will need a stretch / knit fabric with a 50% stretch. Best results will be achieved with a fabric with drape. The more drape, the more flowing & relaxed your top will look, for example a cotton lycra 5% will fit, but it won’t drape and flow under the arms where the excess fabric sits. A great choice is lightweight knit such as rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey as they will drape and flow in a much more relaxed way. The less drape, the more structured your top will look like French terry, hacci sweater knit, interlock, ponte.

For ladies sizes XXS to 4XL, any type of stretch or knit fabric will work (so long as it stretches 50% as above). 

For ladies 5XL size, you need a 4-way stretch fabric as your garment will be cut down the fabric rather than across the fabric as normal. A fabric with 4-way stretch will mean your garment still has the correct drape even though you’re cutting it sideways. See notes in the cutting instructions.

Neckband, OPTIONAL Sleeves and OPTIONAL waistband – If you are going to use the same fabric for these as for your top, it needs to have at least a 50% stretch to be able to get it on & off and it be comfortable. 

• To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length). 
• If it doesn’t, you’ll need to either use a ribbing-type fabric for these, or size up one size for these pieces. 
• If you are unsure if your fabric has enough stretch, cut your neckband piece only, stitch this into a circle using a ⅜ seam allowance and try to pass it over your model’s head. If it does not fit, either size up to a larger size width-wise or select a fabric with more stretch. Check the same for your Sleeves.

* Do not use a woven fabric.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Thread to match.

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

OPTIONS – There are several options in the pattern. You will need to select which you want to use before starting to cut:

• Hemline
  • Diagonal hemline (use diagonal hem cutting lines on Front and Back pieces, no waistband piece required)
  • Waistband hemline (use waistband cutting lines on Front and Back pieces, plus cut a waistband)
• Neckline
  • High neckline (use high neck cutting line on Front piece, and high neckband piece) 
  • Or Round neckline (use round neck cutting line on Front piece, and the round neckband piece)
• Sleeve length
  • Elbow length top (no Sleeve piece required),
  • ¾ length Sleeves (use ¾ Sleeve piece)
  • Or long Sleeves (use long Sleeve piece)

For ladies’ sizes XXS to XXL – Cut all pattern pieces according to the instructions on the pattern pieces. 

For ladies’ 5XL size only – You will find your Front/Back pattern pieces are slightly wider than your 60 inch (150cm) wide fabric. 

• If you are using 4-way stretch as per the fabric recommendations, simply turn your pattern piece sideways so it runs down the grainline. The 4-way stretch property of the fabric will mean you still get a beautiful drape and the fabric won’t stretch out of shape over time.
• If you choose not to use 4-way stretch, then you will need to adjust your pattern pieces to fit. 
  • This is only recommended if you have some experience of blending sizes. 
  • The downside to this is your garment will not be as oversized width-wise so the draping effect will be less. 
  • The upside is it gives you a greater variety of fabrics you can use. If you are unsure, make a muslin (test version) out of similar fabric to see how you like the shaping of a blended size.
  • To blend sizes – You want to use all your own size markings, except for the Sleeve placement. This needs to move into the 4XL with. To do this, use the neckline from your size as per the sizing chart. Move the Sleeve opening from your size back to where the Sleeve opening from the XXL size is. Make sure to still use the width of the Sleeve opening from your size though or the Sleeve will end up too small. Follow the underarm markings from your size. For the diagonal hem, then draw a straight line from there to the bottom point of the diagonal hem from your size. For the Waistband option, draw a smooth curve from under the arm to where your size hem width is (so the hem is still the same width as your size).
  • Cut all other pieces normally.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

Cutting checklist:
Diagonal Hem OPTION pieces

• Front – Fabric cut 1 (using diagonal hem lines, and either high or round neckline)
• Back – Fabric cut 1 (using diagonal hem lines)
• OPTIONAL Sleeves – Fabric cut 2 on fold (either long or ¾)
• Neckband – Fabric cut 1 (either high or round option)

Waistband OPTION pieces

• Front – Fabric cut 1 (using waistband option lines, and either high or round neckline)
• Back – Fabric cut 1 (using waistband option lines)
• OPTIONAL Sleeves – Fabric cut 2 on fold (either long or ¾)
• Neckband – Fabric cut 1 (either high or round option)
• Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included 

Sewing –

1. SHOULDERS – Stitch Front and Back bodice pieces with the right sides of the fabric together at shoulder seams.
2. SIMPLE NECKBAND OPTION – Fold the Neckband in half right side to right side and stitch the short edges. Fold Neckband lengthwise wrong side to wrong side. Working from the RIGHT side of the neckline, place the Neckband around the neckline so the raw edges meet. Align the seam of the Neckband with the center back and match the other quarter points. Stitch around the neckline while stretching the Neckband gently to fit the neckline. Press the seam allowance down and away from the band. Optionally topstitch around the neckline.
3. NECK BINDING OPTION – Fold the Neckband in half length-wise, right side to right side. Stitch to create a loop. Fold the Neckband lengthwise wrong side to wrong side. Working from the WRONG side of the neckline, place the Neckband around the neckline so the raw edges meet. Align the seam of the Neckband with the center back and match the other quarter points. Stitch while stretching the binding gently to match the neckline. Pay attention to only stretch the binding and not the neckline. Trim seam allowance in half and press the band up and away from the shirt and the seam allowance down toward the shirt. Fold band toward the right side of the shirt covering the seam allowance. Topstitch the binding in place.
4. OPTIONAL SLEEVES – If doing the long or ¾ length Sleeve, stitch Sleeve to armhole while stretching the Sleeve gently to match the armhole. Fold the hem of the Sleeve under ½ inch and press. From the right side topstitch the Sleeve hem. If doing no Sleeve (elbow length top), fold the hem of the armhole under ½ inch and press. From the right side topstitch in place.
5. DIAGONAL HEM OPTION – With the right sides of the fabric together pin the Front and Back pieces together starting at the Sleeve and under the arm (the little bending part of the side seam). Stitch to the end of the small curve. Press the seam towards the back. Clip into the seam allowance, at the notch, up to the stitching line. Do not cut past the stitching line. Fold both long diagonal hems under ⅜ and press. From the right side, topstitch continuously all around the hem using a twin needle just under ⅜ from the edge.
6. WAISTBAND OPTION – With the right sides of the fabric together, pin the Front and Back pieces together starting at the Sleeve, under the arm and down the curved part of the side seam. Stitch. Press the seam towards the back. Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise right side to right side. Stitch the short ends, creating a large loop. Fold the Waistband in half horizontally wrong side to wrong side.  Working from the right side of the shirt, place the folded Waistband on to the end of the waist opening so that the raw edges meet. Align the Waistband seam with one side seam and match the quarter points. Stitch or serge while stretching the Waistband gently to match the waist opening. Press.

Congratulations, your Dreamy Drape is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpdreamydrape.

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