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Home / Womens / Dresses, Garments, Office Wear
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
24
Women's Paris Day Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This pattern is for a gorgeous and flattering gathered dress that sits just below the knee. There are two skirt options, two neckline options and three sleeve options in three different lengths, ensuring you can suit your own style.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting bodice size – If your bust and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your bust measurement. That way the armhole, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your bust and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the waist as needed (draw a gentle line between both sizes at the waist).
- Adjusting bust – The ladies sizes are designed with a sewing C cup bust. Given that the top is designed for knit/stretch fabrics, it will be quite forgiving. Cup sizes A to D should fit well in it. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). There are several great tutorials online how to do this with knit. Our favorite ones are in the link at the bottom of this section.
- Adjusting height – The ladies sizes are designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. This dress sits just past your knee. If you are taller/shorter you may need to make the following adjustments:
- Bodice: add/remove length at the hem
- One tier skirt: add/remove length at the hem
- Three tier skirt: add/remove length on each tier at the hem
- Muslin – I recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
- Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out the bodice, a sleeve, and the one tier skirt. Sewing the one tier skirt will help you check the length and the fit at the waist and hips. Label each piece with tailors chalk or fabric pen so you know what each piece is. NOTE – If you are sewing the three tier skirt, the hem circumference will be much wider.
- Baste the bodice together using a ¼ inch seam allowance, and baste the skirt together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ¼ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Fabric – Your top fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results and fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric. A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2 way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish around your legs more. Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, silk satin with elastane, and silk jersey with elastane. These will give you a lovely drape and swing. Do not use a woven fabric.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Neckband – If you are going to use the same fabric for the neckband as for your top, it needs to have at least a 50% stretch for it to fit and easily go over your head when putting it on. To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length). If it doesn’t, you’ll need to either use a ribbing-type fabric for the neckband, or size up one size for the neckband piece.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- OPTIONAL clear elastic
- Thread to match
- Ignore the grainline – The skirt is designed to be cut with the grainline running vertically down the pattern piece. Normally grainlines are really important and I would never suggest altering them. However, if you are using a knit with equal stretch, you can turn the pattern piece so it runs down the fabric (e.g. the grainline runs across the pattern piece). There is very little shaping on the side seams of the skirt. Most of the shaping and silhouette of the skirt is created in the gathers. Before cutting, hold your fabric up in this direction and check if you like how it hangs.
- Split your pattern piece – This is the more traditional approach. If your fabric doesn’t have equal stretch, or has a directional print, this is what you’ll need to do. To do this:
- Take each tier pattern piece and add a ¼ inch seam allowance to each short side of the pattern piece.
- Cut 4 from your fabric. You will sew two pieces together to form your front tier and two pieces together to form your back tier, using ¼ inch seam allowance.
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewParis Day Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Paris Day Dress is easy to sew with beautiful results. The gathered skirt is flattering and comfortable and has the option of one full tier or three gathered tiers which sits just below the knee.
A choice of two necklines (boatneck or scoop) and multiple sleeve styles and lengths means you can create endless versions. The perfect dress for all seasons.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Chest
Length (from center back to hem)
Cap Sleeve Length
Plain or Puff Sleeve Length
Short
Three-quarter
Long
XXS
26.0
29.1
44.0
1.6
7.0
13.1
21.2
XS
28.1
31.3
44.2
1.7
7.1
13.5
21.6
S
30.3
33.7
44.7
2.1
7.1
14.0
22.0
M
32.4
35.5
45.0
2.1
7.1
14.1
22.3
L
34.6
38.0
45.5
2.2
7.2
14.5
22.7
XL
38.0
41.2
46.1
2.4
7.3
15.0
23.2
XXL
41.1
44.3
46.3
2.6
7.4
15.3
23.7
3XL
44.4
47.7
46.7
3.0
7.6
15.7
24.2
4XL
47.7
51.0
47.2
3.0
7.7
16.1
24.7
5XL
51.0
54.4
47.5
3.2
7.7
16.5
25.2
Fitting NotesThe top is semi-fitted. This means it is not skin tight, nor is it meant to be baggy. The skirt is gathered at the waist and through each tier. This creates a very loose-fitting skirt throughout the waist and hip. Check the finished garment measurement against your own measurements before selecting your size by holding a tape measure around your waist and hip. For most body shapes, you will find the sizing generous and comfortable over the hips.
Materials and ToolsFabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
One tier dress with short or ¾ sleeve
One tier dress with long sleeve
Three tier dress with short or ¾ sleeve
Three tier dress with long sleeve
XXS
2.50
2.50
2.00
2.00
XS
2.50
2.50
2.00
2.00
S
3.00
3.00
2.25
2.25
M
3.00
3.25
2.75
3.25
L
3.00
3.25
3.25
4.00
XL
3.00
3.25
4.75
5.00
XXL
3.25
3.75
4.75
5.00
3XL
4.00
4.50
4.75
5.00
4XL
4.00
4.75
5.50
5.50
5XL
4.75
5.00
6.00
6.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
One tier dress with short or ¾ sleeve
One tier dress with long sleeve
Three tier dress with short or ¾ sleeve
Three tier dress with long sleeve
XXS
1.75
2.00
2.00
2.00
XS
1.75
2.00
2.00
2.00
S
2.50
2.50
2.75
2.75
M
2.50
2.50
2.75
2.75
L
2.50
2.50
2.75
3.25
XL
2.50
2.50
2.75
3.25
XXL
2.50
2.50
3.00
3.50
3XL
3.00
3.00
3.00
3.50
4XL
3.00
3.00
4.00
4.00
5XL
3.25
3.75
4.00
4.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, narrow twin needle, and optional serger/overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Bodice Skirt Sleeve Length Puff Sleeve With boat or scoop neckline One Tier Three Tier Short Cap Short and 3/4 Long Short and 3/4 Long XXS 2-5, 11-14, 49-52 11-12, 20-21, 30-31, 40-41 23-24, 26-27, 33-34, 36-37, 43-46, 52-55 6-7 28 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-9, 17-18 8-9, 17-18, 26-27 XS 2-5, 11-14, 49-52 11-12, 20-21, 30-31, 40-41 23-24, 26-28, 33-34, 36-38, 43-46, 52-55 6-7 28 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-9, 17-18 8-9, 17-18, 26-27 S – M 2-5, 11-14, 49-52 11-13, 20-22, 30-32, 40-42 23-24, 26-28, 33-34, 36-38, 43-46, 52-55 6-7 28 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-9, 17-18 8-9, 17-18, 26-27 L – XL 2-5, 11-14, 49-52 11-13, 20-22, 30-32, 40-42 23-28, 33-34-38, 43-47, 52-56 6-7 28 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-9, 17-18 8-9, 17-18, 26-27 XXL 2-5, 11-14, 49-52 11-13, 20-22, 30-32, 40-42 23-29, 33-34-39, 43-47, 52-56 6-7 28 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-9, 17-18 8-9, 17-18, 26-27 3XL 2-5, 11-14, 49-53 11-13, 20-22, 30-32, 40-42 23-29, 33-34-39, 43-48, 52-57 5-7 28 5-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-18 8-10, 17-18, 26-27 4XL 2-5, 11-14, 49-53 11-14, 20-23, 30-33, 40-43 23-29, 33-34-39, 43-48, 52-57 5-7 28 5-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-27 5XL 2-5, 11-14, 49-53 11-14, 20-23, 30-33, 40-43 23-29, 33-34-39, 43-48, 52-57 5-7 28 5-7, 14-16 6-7, 14-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-27 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Bodice Skirt Sleeve Length Puff Sleeve With boat neckline With scoop neckline One Tier Three Tier Short Cap 3/4 Long Short and 3/4 Long XXS 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 11-12, 20-21, 29-30, 38-39 23-24, 32-34, 38-43, 47-50 6-7 36 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-18 8-10, 17-18, 26-27 XS 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 11-12, 20-21, 29-30, 38-39 23-24, 32-34, 38-43, 47-50 6-7 36 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-27 S 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 11-13, 20-22, 29-31, 38-40 23-24, 32-34, 38-43, 47-50 6-7 36 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-27 M 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 11-13, 20-22, 29-31, 38-40 23-25, 32-34, 38-43, 47-50 6-7 36 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-27 L – XL 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 11-13, 20-22, 29-31, 38-40 23-25, 32-35, 38-44, 47-50 6-7 36 6-7, 15-16 6-7, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-27 XXL 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 11-13, 20-22, 29-31, 38-40 23-25, 32-35, 38-44, 47-50 6-8 36 6-8, 15-16 6-8, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-27 3XL 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46 11-13, 20-22, 29-31, 38-40 23-25, 32-35, 38-44, 47-50 6-8 36 6-8, 15-16 6-8, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-28 4XL 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46, 53 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46, 53 11-14, 20-23, 29-32, 38-41 23-25, 32-36, 38-45, 47-50 6-8 36 6-8, 15-16 6-8, 15-16, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-28 5XL 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46, 53 2-5, 12-14, 28, 37, 46, 53 11-14, 20-23, 29-32, 38-41 23-25, 32-36, 38-45, 47-50 6-8 36 6-8, 15-17 6-8, 15-17, 24-25 8-10, 17-19 8-10, 17-19, 26-28 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
When you come to cutting out the ladies three tier skirt, you need to cut 1x back piece and 1x front piece on the fold. For sizes L – 5XL if you are using 60inch / 150cm (or 45inch / 115cm) wide fabric, you may need to do one of the following:
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Neckband
One Tier Skirt
(cut 2)Three Tier Skirt
Boat Neckline (cut 1)
Scoop Neckline (cut 1)
Tier 1 (cut 2)
Tier 2 (cut 2)
Tier 3 (cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
1.5
20.0
1.5
26.0
27.1
31.3
20.2
11.2
30.3
11.2
45.4
11.5
XS
1.5
20.5
1.5
26.5
29.1
31.4
22.0
11.3
33.0
11.3
49.2
11.5
S
1.5
21.0
1.5
27.3
31.3
31.5
23.5
11.3
35.2
11.3
53.0
11.5
M
1.5
21.5
1.5
27.3
33.4
31.6
25.1
11.3
37.6
11.3
56.4
11.6
L
1.5
22.0
1.5
28.5
36.0
31.7
26.7
11.4
40.1
11.4
60.1
11.6
XL
1.5
23.0
1.5
29.5
39.0
32.0
29.1
11.4
43.7
11.4
65.5
11.6
XXL
1.5
24.0
1.5
30.5
42.1
32.1
31.6
11.4
47.4
11.4
71.1
11.7
3XL
1.5
25.0
1.5
31.5
45.4
32.2
34.0
11.5
51.1
11.5
76.6
11.7
4XL
1.5
26.0
1.5
33.0
48.7
32.3
36.5
11.5
54.7
11.5
82.1
11.7
5XL
1.5
27.0
1.5
34.0
52.2
32.4
39.0
11.5
58.3
11.5
87.4
11.8
Before cutting out, you need to decide which option/s you are going to use. The available options are:Option
Description
What pattern pieces you’ll need
Steps to follow
Bodice (select one)
Bodice with Boat Neckline
A semi-fitted bodice with a simple and elegant boatneck line. This shape is flattering on virtually everyone.
● Bodice Front – Cut 1 on fold (use boat neckline cutting line)
● Bodice Back – Cut 1 on fold
● Boat Neckband – Cut 1
1 & 3,
6 OR 7,9
Bodice with Scoop Neckline
A semi-fitted bodice with a deep U neckline. It is suitable to almost everyone.
● Bodice Front – Cut 1 on fold (use scoop neckline cutting line)
● Bodice Back – Cut 1 on fold
● Scoop Neckband – Cut 1
1 & 3,
6 OR 7,9
Sleeve (select one)
Plain Sleeve – Short or ¾ or Long
A straight sleeve option sewn on the round of the armscye.
● Ladies Plain Sleeve – Cut 2 (use short or ¾ or long sleeve cutting line)
● Childs Plain Sleeve – Cut 2 on fold (use short or ¾ or long sleeve cutting line)
2
Puff Sleeve – Short or ¾ or Long
This set in sleeve is slightly gathered at the top, giving it a slight puff effect.
● Ladies Puff Sleeve – Cut 2 (use short or ¾ or long sleeve cutting line)
● Childs Puff Sleeve – Cut 2 on fold (use short or ¾ or long sleeve cutting line)
4
Cap Sleeve
A set in gathered sleeve extending from the shoulder and tapering down.
● Cap Sleeve – Cut 2 on fold
5
Skirt (select one)
One Tier
A simple gathered skirt sitting at knee length.
● One Tier Skirt – Cut 2 on fold
8
Three Tier
A three tier skirt is fuller and flairs out, but without bulk around the waist.
● Three Tier Skirt Tier 1 – Cut 2 on fold
● Three Tier Skirt Tier 2 – Cut 2 on fold
● Three Tier Skirt Tier 3 – Cut 2 on fold
8
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting
- + Instructions
- SHOULDER SEAMS – Stitch or serge shoulder seams.
- OPTIONAL PLAIN SLEEVE – Open the bodice flat right side facing up. Mark the center of a sleeve and match this, right sides together, to the shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve to the armscye. Stitch together. Press the seam. Fold the bottom of the sleeve ½ inch to the wrong side and press. Fold again by ½ inch to create a memory hem. Repeat for the other sleeve.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch or serge the side seams.
- OPTIONAL PUFF SLEEVE – Sew a gathering stitch between the notches. Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together. Stitch the underarm seam. Turn the sleeve right side out. Mark the center of your sleeve with a pin. With the bodice wrong side out, insert the sleeve, aligning the pin with the shoulder seam, and the side seam with the sleeve seam. Pin together until you reach the sleeve notches. Gather the sleeve to the armscye. Pin. Stitch around the armscye. Remove the gathering stitches. Fold the bottom of the sleeve ½ inch to the wrong side and press. Fold again by ½ inch to create a memory hem. Repeat for the other sleeve.
- OPTIONAL CAP SLEEVE – Fold the sleeve hem under ¼ inch and press. Repeat. Topstitch at ¼ inch. Sew a gathering stitch between the notches. Mark the center with a pin. Match the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam, right sides together. Pin together until you reach the notches. Gather the sleeve to fit the armscye. Stitch together. Open sleeves away from bodice so right side faces up and press the seam away from the bodice. Turn the bodice inside out and fold the remaining seam allowance of the armscye under ¼ inch. Pin and press. Topstitch around the armhole.
- OPTIONAL BOUND NECKBAND – Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance to create a loop. Right sides together, pin one raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the neckline. Stitch or serge to the neckline. Press seam allowance and the binding up and away from the shirt. Fold the remaining raw edge toward the wrong side of the neckline. Wrap the folded binding to the wrong side over the seam allowance and topstitch in place.
- OPTIONAL SIMPLE NECKBAND – Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, and stitch the short edges together. Press the seam open. Fold lengthwise wrong side to wrong side. Press. Mark the quarters on the raw edges of band and the neckline. Working from the right side of the neckline, place the neckband around the raw edges on the right side of the neckline. Align the seam of the neckband with the center back and match the other quarter points. Pin to secure. Stitch around the neckline while gently stretching the neckband to fit the neckline. Press the seam. Optional topstitch.
- SKIRT RUFFLE TIERS – Stitch individual pieces right sides together along short ends to create a circle. Add gathering stitches to the top of the skirt. Pin tier to the bottom of the bodice, right sides together and gather the ruffle. Stitch. Optional add clear elastic. Press seam up. Repeat for additional tiers.
- HEMMING – Fold bottom of sleeves under by 1 inch, press and top stitch in place. Fold the bottom of the skirt by ½ inch, press and top stitch in place.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet¼ inch seam allowance for the bodice, neckband and sleeves & ½ inch for the skirt is included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
¼ inch seam allowance for the bodice, neckband and sleeves & ½ inch for the skirt is included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.
1 . Shoulder Seams1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the shoulder seams together using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press to the back. Skip to step 2 for the plain sleeve option or skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the step below.
1.1Pin the front and back bodice pieces, right sides together, at the shoulder seams.
Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance.
Press to the back.
TIP – If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use a clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams to prevent them from stretching out overtime with wear. To install the elastic leave excess on either ends of the seam, you can cut the excess later. Pin the elastic without stretching it and incorporate it to the shoulder seam.
2 . OPTIONAL Plain Sleeve2.0This step is the same regardless of whether you are doing the short, ¾ or long sleeves. If you are sewing the puff or cap sleeve, skip to step 3 to sew the side seams before sewing these sleeve options.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 2.1 to 2.3. Then, serge the sleeve to the bodice using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the sleeve and away from the bodice. Fit check the bodice and make any adjustments to the sleeve length if needed. Serge the raw edge. Fold the hem up 1 inch and press. You can follow step 9 to hem the sleeve now if you prefer. Repeat for the other sleeve. Skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the steps below.
2.1Open the bodice so the right side is facing up.
2.2Take a sleeve and fold it in half, marking the center with a pin at the top.
2.3With right sides together, align the sleeve center to the shoulder seam.
Pin the corners of your sleeve to the corners of your armscye. Continue pinning the sleeve to the armscye.
2.4If you are using a fabric with good stretch, no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place. Stitch the sleeve around the armhole using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.5Press the seam towards the sleeve and away from the bodice.
2.6FIT CHECK – You will be creating a memory hem in this step. We recommend trying the bodice on to check for any sleeve length adjustments you may need to make before creating this.
Fold the bottom of the sleeve ½ inch to the wrong side and press. Fold it over another ½ inch and press. This will create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s much easier to do this now, than to try and press the sleeve hem later when the sleeve is stitched into a circle.
NOTE – Depending on your fabric choice you may need to press using a low heat setting and/or a pressing cloth to protect your fabric.
NOTE – On the smaller sizes, you might find it easier to hem the sleeves at this point. Skip to step 9 for instructions.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.6 for the other sleeve.
3 . Side Seams3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With right sides together, serge the front and back together, using a ¼ inch seam allowance, along the underarm seam and the side seam. Press the seam towards the back. Repeat for the other side seam. Skip to step 4 for the puff sleeve, step 5 for the cap sleeve. Or, if you have sewn the plain sleeves skip to step 6 for the bound neckline or step 7 for the simple neckband.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the step below.
3.1With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces together, starting at the sleeve to the bottom of the side seam.
Stitch in a continuous seam from the sleeve to the bodice using a ¼ seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Press the seam towards the back.
4 . OPTIONAL Puff Sleeve4.0If you have sewn the plain sleeve skip to step 6. If you would like to sew the cap sleeve, skip to step 5. You can use any length of sleeve for this option.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 4.1, then serge the side seams using ¼ inch seam allowance. Follow step 4.3 to 4.5. Serge the sleeve to the bodice using ¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other sleeve. Then skip to step 6 for the bound neckline or step 7 for the simple neckband.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the steps below.
4.1We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches.
Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ¼ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.
When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start at one notch and sew to the next. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo).
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!
NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.
4.2Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, and pin along the underarm seam.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press.
4.3Turn the sleeve right way out. Find the center of your sleeve and mark it with a pin.
4.4With the bodice wrong side facing out, insert the sleeve right side out, aligning the pin with the shoulder seam, and the side seam with the sleeve seam. Pin.
4.5Continue pinning from the side seam until you reach the notches on the sleeve.
4.6Starting at one notch, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the sleeve until it is the same length as armscye. Pin in place.
4.7Stitch around the armscye using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Stitch the sleeve with the gathers on top making sure there are no puckers.
4.8Remove the gathering stitches by delicately pulling the ends of the gathering threads so that they come all the way through the armhole. Find the thread from the underside and pull this out too. Remove any loose threads you can see.
TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard. If this happens, just pull the other end.
4.9FIT CHECK – You will be creating a memory hem in this step. We recommend trying the bodice on to check for any sleeve length adjustments you may need to be make before creating this.
Fold the bottom of the sleeve ½ inch to the wrong side and press. Fold it over another ½ inch and press. This will create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s much easier to do this now, than to try and press the sleeve hem later when the sleeve is stitched into a circle.
NOTE – Depending on your fabric choice you may need to press using a low heat setting and/or a pressing cloth to protect your fabric.
NOTE – On the smaller sizes, you might find it easier to hem the sleeves at this point. Skip to step 9 for instructions.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.8 for the other sleeve.
5 . OPTIONAL Cap Sleeve5.0If you have sewn the plain or puff sleeve skip to step 6 for the bound neckline or step 7 for the simple neckband.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 5.1 to 5.7. Then serge the sleeve to the bodice using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Then follow steps 5.9 to 5.10.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the steps below.
5.1Fold the sleeve hem under ¼ inch and pin. Press.
5.2Fold the hem under ¼ inch again and press.
5.3Turn the sleeve over, with right sides facing up, topstitch at ¼ inch.
5.4We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches.
Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ¼ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.
When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start at one notch and sew to the next. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo).
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!
NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.
5.5Fold the cap sleeve in half and mark the center with a pin.
5.6Match the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam, right sides together, and pin.
Pin the ends of the sleeve to the notches on the bodice.
5.7Find a pair of bobbin thread and very gently pull on both equally to gather the cap sleeve until it fits between the notches. Distribute the gathers.
5.8Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance.
5.9Fold the sleeve over, right sides facing up, and press the sleeve away from the bodice.
5.10Turn the bodice inside out and fold the remaining seam allowance of the armscye under ¼ inch. Pin and press.
From the right side of the fabric, topstitch all around the armhole using a narrow twin needle, a zig zag stitch, or a stretch stitch.
6 . OPTIONAL Bound Neckband6.0This step is the same for the scoop or boat neck. If you would like to sew the simple neckband skip to step 7.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, matching the short ends. Serge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to one side. Follow steps 6.2 to 6.3, then serge the neckband to the bodice using ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance and the binding up and away from the bodice. Then follow steps 6.5 to 6.7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the steps below.
6.1Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, matching the short ends.
Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance to create a loop.
Press the seam allowance open.
6.2Use pins to mark the quarters of the binding and neckline.
6.3Working from the right side of the neckline, place the neckband around the neckline so the raw edges meet.
Align the seam of the neckband with the center back and match the other quarter points. Pin to secure.
6.4Turn the bodice wrong way out. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance, stretching the binding gently to match the neckline. Pay attention to only stretch the binding and not the neckline.
Press the seam allowance and the binding up and away from the bodice.
6.5Fold the remaining raw edge of the neckband down toward the wrong side of the neckline.
6.6Fold it in half again so that the folded edge overlaps the seam allowance.
Secure with pins from the right side of the fabric.
6.7Topstitch the neckband in place using a narrow twin needle or a zigzag stitch.
Press.
7 . OPTIONAL Simple Neckband7.0This step is the same for the scoop or boat neck. If you have sewn the bound neckband skip to step 8.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, matching the short ends. Serge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to one side. Follow steps 7.2 to 7.4, then serge the neckband to the bodice using ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance and the binding up and away from the bodice. Then skip to step 8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the steps below.
7.1Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, matching the short ends. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam open.
7.2Fold the neckband lengthwise wrong side to wrong side. Press lightly making sure not to stretch the band.
7.3Use pins to mark the quarters on the raw edges of the band and the neckline.
7.4Working from the right side of the neckline, place the neckband around the neckline so the raw edges meet.
Align the seam of the neckband with the center back and match the other quarter points. Pin to secure.
7.5Stitch around the neckline while stretching the neckband gently to fit the neckline using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – To prevent the fabric from waving, take extra care to stretch only the band and not the neckline.
7.6Press the seam allowance down and away from the band.
OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the neckline with a twin needle, medium size zig zag stitch or a stretch stitch.
8 . Skirt Tiers8.0You are going to gather the top of Tier 3 and attach it to the bottom of Tier 2, then gather the top of Tier 2 and attach it to the bottom of Tier 1. Each tier is 1.5x the width of the tier above it. If you are sewing a One Tier skirt it is 2x the width of the bodice.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With right sides facing, stitch the sides of the tier together using a ½ inch seam allowance to create a circle. Press the seams to the back. Follow steps 8.2 – 8.4. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and serge to finish the seam. Follow steps 8.7 – 8.8, then stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and serge to finish the seam. Press the seam up. Then skip to step 9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Use a stretch stitch when sewing. You can also finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Follow the steps below.
8.1Place your two skirt tier pieces right sides together.
Stitch along both short sides using a ½ inch seam allowance to create a large loop/circle.
Press the seam open.
Use an overlock or zig zag stitch to finish the seam allowance raw edges.
8.2Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top of your tier.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start and stop at each side seam. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!
NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.
If you are sewing three tiers repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 for each tier.
8.3Fold the tier in half, at the raw edge you have sewn gathering stitches, and mark the front and back with a pin. Repeat for all tiers.
If you are sewing a one tier skirt, skip to step 8.7.
8.4If you are sewing three tiers, you will gather the top of the third tier to fit the bottom of the second tier, then gather the top of the second tier to fit the bottom of the first tier.
Take your second tier and place it over your third tier, right sides facing, matching the top of the third tier to the bottom of the second tier. The bottom is the raw edge without gathered stitches.
Starting at a side seam, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the third tier in between each quarter. You want the tier to be the same width as the tier above it.
Pin in place.
8.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use a clear elastic to stabilize each tier to prevent them from stretching out overtime with wear. To install the elastic leave excess on either ends of the seam, you can cut the excess later. Pin the elastic without stretching it and incorporate it to the tier seam.
Remove the gathering stitches.
Press the seam up, making sure not to flatten the gathers.
To finish the seams, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
8.6Repeat steps 8.4 to 8.5 to gather the second tier to the first tier. You will now have a complete skirt with three gathered tiers, ready to attach to the bodice.
Fold the top of the skirt in half and mark the center front and back.
8.7Fold the bodice in half and mark the front and back with a pin.
Place the bodice wrong sides facing out. With the skirt right side facing up, slide the bodice over the skirt, matching the waist raw edges, side seams, center front and center back. Pin together.
8.8You are now going to gather the skirt to fit the bodice.
Starting at a side seam, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the skirt in between each quarter. You want the skirt to be the same width as the bodice.
Pin in place.
8.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use a clear elastic to stabilize each tier to prevent them from stretching out overtime with wear. To install the elastic leave excess on either ends of the seam, you can cut the excess later. Pin the elastic without stretching it and incorporate it to the tier seam.
Remove the gathering stitches.
8.10Turn the dress inside out. Press the seam up, making sure not to flatten the gathers.
To finish the seams between the skirt tiers, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
9 . Hemming9.0FIT CHECK – Try your dress on before hemming. If you feel the fit is too loose around the waist, we suggest sewing ¼ inch elastic around the waist. To do this follow the TIP in step 8.9.
If you have sewn the cap sleeve skip steps 9.1 to 9.2.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Finish the sleeve and skirt edges of the hem with the serger. Fold the hem under 1 inch and press. From the right side, topstitch in place.
9.1Using the memory hem you created in step 2.6 for the plain sleeve or step 4.8 for the puff sleeve, fold the sleeve hem back over to the wrong side.
NOTE – For sizes 0 – 6 months on the short sleeve version, hem by only ½ inch rather than 1 inch.
9.2From the right side topstitch just under 1 inch from the fold, using a twin needle, a medium size zigzag or a stretch stitch.
OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edge of the fabric with a serger or a mock overlock stitch on a regular sewing machine before turning it under.
Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 for the other sleeve hem.
9.3Fold the skirt hem towards the wrong side ½ inch and press. Pin.
9.4From the right side, topstitch the hem in place just under ½ inch. Press.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Paris Day Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpparisdaydress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewParis Day Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Paris Day Dress is easy to sew with beautiful results. The gathered skirt is flattering and comfortable and has the option of one full tier or three gathered tiers which sits just below the knee.
A choice of two necklines (boatneck or scoop) and multiple sleeve styles and lengths means you can create endless versions. The perfect dress for all seasons.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Chest
Length (from center back to hem)
Cap Sleeve Length
Plain or Puff Sleeve Length
Short
Three-quarter
Long
XXS
26.0
29.1
44.0
1.6
7.0
13.1
21.2
XS
28.1
31.3
44.2
1.7
7.1
13.5
21.6
S
30.3
33.7
44.7
2.1
7.1
14.0
22.0
M
32.4
35.5
45.0
2.1
7.1
14.1
22.3
L
34.6
38.0
45.5
2.2
7.2
14.5
22.7
XL
38.0
41.2
46.1
2.4
7.3
15.0
23.2
XXL
41.1
44.3
46.3
2.6
7.4
15.3
23.7
3XL
44.4
47.7
46.7
3.0
7.6
15.7
24.2
4XL
47.7
51.0
47.2
3.0
7.7
16.1
24.7
5XL
51.0
54.4
47.5
3.2
7.7
16.5
25.2
Materials and Tools- Fabric – Your top fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results and fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric. A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2 way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish around your legs more. Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, silk satin with elastane, and silk jersey with elastane. These will give you a lovely drape and swing. Do not use a woven fabric.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Neckband – If you are going to use the same fabric for the neckband as for your top, it needs to have at least a 50% stretch for it to fit and easily go over your head when putting it on. To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length). If it doesn’t, you’ll need to either use a ribbing-type fabric for the neckband, or size up one size for the neckband piece.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
One tier dress with short or ¾ sleeve
One tier dress with long sleeve
Three tier dress with short or ¾ sleeve
Three tier dress with long sleeve
XXS
2.50
2.50
2.00
2.00
XS
2.50
2.50
2.00
2.00
S
3.00
3.00
2.25
2.25
M
3.00
3.25
2.75
3.25
L
3.00
3.25
3.25
4.00
XL
3.00
3.25
4.75
5.00
XXL
3.25
3.75
4.75
5.00
3XL
4.00
4.50
4.75
5.00
4XL
4.00
4.75
5.50
5.50
5XL
4.75
5.00
6.00
6.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
One tier dress with short or ¾ sleeve
One tier dress with long sleeve
Three tier dress with short or ¾ sleeve
Three tier dress with long sleeve
XXS
1.75
2.00
2.00
2.00
XS
1.75
2.00
2.00
2.00
S
2.50
2.50
2.75
2.75
M
2.50
2.50
2.75
2.75
L
2.50
2.50
2.75
3.25
XL
2.50
2.50
2.75
3.25
XXL
2.50
2.50
3.00
3.50
3XL
3.00
3.00
3.00
3.50
4XL
3.00
3.00
4.00
4.00
5XL
3.25
3.75
4.00
4.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL clear elastic
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, narrow twin needle, and optional serger/overlocker.