Women's Pretty Party Dress

Interfacing

If you are using interfacing, before starting sewing, iron your interfacing onto the wrong side of each of your Yokes using the manufacturer’s instructions

For best results, the interfacing should be placed on each Yoke piece and begin ironing from the center to the outside of the Yoke to avoid wrinkles.

Make sure do a test patch on a spare piece of fabric and use your interfacing manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the interfacing goes on smoothly with no ‘bubbles’ in it.

TIP – Trim the seam allowance (⅝ inch) off the interfacing before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

Darts

Mark your darts onto the Bodice Front, bodice Back, Bodice Lining Front and Bodice Lining Back.

There are many methods of doing this. If you have done this before, use the one you are most familiar with.

If you haven’t done this before, lay the fabric wrong side up on your ironing board. Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with half of the Bodice. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board. Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place. Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart. Draw the dart in between the corner points using tailors chalk or a special pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

Leave the fabric where it is, turn the paper pattern piece over and repeat with the mirror image other half of the Bodice, using the pin holes as your three corner points.

Take your Front Bodice piece and fold it in half width-wise. Mark the center point on the neckline with a pin.

Repeat with one Front Yoke piece and fold in half, marking the center point on the bottom of the Yoke with a pin.

With the Bodice right way up, place the Yoke upside down on to the top (with right sides together).

Match the center point pins and pin together.

Pin the Yoke to the Bodice. I use lots of pins to do this, pinning about every ½ inch.

Depending on the fabric you’ve used, you may find the Bodice curls downwards as you are pinning. Later when we’ve finished this step it will sit flat again.

Stitch the Yoke to the Bodice using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Stitch slowly and stretch the Bodice fabric slightly if needed to avoid any wrinkles.

I recommend sewing this seam with the Bodice side upwards (e.g. on top of the Yoke as you feed it into your sewing machine). The Yoke (especially if you have interfaced it) usually sits relatively flat, whereas the Bodice tends to curl during this step. If the Bodice is on top, you can make sure there are no unexpected wrinkles as you sew.

TIP – Some fabrics tend to wrinkle on this step. If you find this, something that really helps is to start stitching from the center of the Yoke out to one edge. Then repeat, stitching from the center out to the other edge.

NOTE – Photos for steps 1.5 to 1.8 show the Bodice and Yokes from the wrong sides of the fabric.

Snip into the curve of the Yoke. Make these snips about once every inch.

You want to snip about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we press it.

Open the Bodice out and press the seam downwards (away from the Yoke and into the Bodice).

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 to attach one Back Yoke to the Back Bodice piece.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 to attach the other Front Yoke to one Front Bodice Lining piece.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 to attach the other Back Yoke to the other Back Bodice Lining piece.

With right sides together, fold the fabric of the Front Bodice down the center line of one dart. Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric to the point of the dart.

Repeat for the second dart on the Front Bodice.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits on the bust without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads.

Press both darts towards the center.

Repeat step 2.1 to stitch the darts into the Back Bodice, Front Bodice Lining and Back Bodice Lining. Then press all darts towards the center.

With right sides together, place the Front and Back Bodice pieces together. Stitch the right side seam only using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Leave the left side seam open as this will be where we insert your zip later. Press the seam open.

NOTE – For the purposes of this tutorial please note the photos and instructions are for a dress with a zip on the left hand side. That said, you can have the zip on whichever side of the dress you prefer. The reason it is traditionally on the left side is so that right handed people can reach over to their left side easily to undo their zips. You may notice that period dresses by contrast often have the zip on the right side so that right handed ladies maids can more easily dress their lady! If you have a ladies maid (or are left handed) you may wish to stitch the zip on the right side.

With right sides together, place the Front and Back Bodice Lining pieces together. Stitch the left side seam only using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.

NOTE – This is the opposite to step 3.1 as in the finished garment the Lining will be inside the Bodice, wrong side to wrong side.

Fold the hem of the Bodice Lining towards the wrong side of the fabric by ⅝ inch and press.

NOTE – This step is for the Lining of the Bodice only.

Turn the Bodice so it is wrong side out, and the Lining so it is right side out.

Make sure that you’ve got both Front sides facing the same direction (the Front Bodice and Yoke is shorter than the Back).

Open the Lining and Bodice out so they are flat. Place the Bodice on top of the Lining. They will be right side to right side.

Pin the Bodice and Lining together first at the side seams, then at where the Yokes join the Bodice, then around the rest of the edges. Leave the side seam where the zip goes open.

When you are pinning where the Yoke joins the Bodice, peak inside the top and check the fold lines of the fabric are lined up neatly before pinning.

Stitch ⅝ inch from the edge all the way along the neckline and arm holes, starting and stopping at the raw edges where the left hand side seam will be.

To get a nice sharp corner where the Yoke joins the Bodice, go slowly, and put the needle down when you get to exactly where the stitching is. Then lift your presser foot and turn the fabric before putting your presser foot down again. This will give a nice sharp edge.

TIP – Place your fabric in your sewing machine so that the Bodice fabric is on top, and the Lining underneath. That way you’ll be able to easily see the seam where the Bodice meets the Yoke and get that turning as accurate as possible.

Cut the corners of the Yoke off (don’t cut all the way to the stitching or it will fray, just cut the bulk off so it’s easier when we turn it right way out).

If any of your edges are uneven, now is a good time to trim these too so it’s all nice and neat inside when you turn it.

Snip carefully into the corners where the Yoke and Bodice join. Only go about ½ to ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. If you go further, it will fray and leave a hole. We just want enough of a snip to make it easier to sit flat when you turn it right way out.

TIP – Use the very end of the scissors for maximum control. If you use mid-way through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

You may find your fabric is quite thick and that it is difficult to snip through this section with just the very tip of the scissors. Keep using the end of the scissors but do several small snips instead of one larger one, or snip through one layer at a time in order to make this easier.

Snip into the curve of the Yoke around the neckline, and under the arms. Make these snips about once every inch.

You want to snip about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we turn it right way out.

Turn Bodice right way out and press.

Top stitch approximately ⅛ inch from the edge along the section of the Bodice under the arms only. Make sure to start and finish right next to where the Yoke joins the Bodice. On the side where the seam is still open for the zip later, stitch all the way to the edge.

TIP – I use a blunt chopstick to poke the corners of the Yoke out, so they are nice and neat.

If you are using a contrast fabric for the Yoke, change your thread to match. Then top stitch approximately ⅛ inch from the edge all the way around both Yokes.

FIT CHECK – If this dress is for you or you have your model available, try the Bodice on now to check how it fits. Make any adjustments you wish to, and then carry on.

NOTE – If you need help in adjusting the Bodice to fit. There are some great “full bust adjustment” tutorials online.

Pin the flaps of the Yokes together where you want them to cross over. The Back Yoke goes on top of the Front Yoke.

The pattern is designed for the edges of the Yoke to overlap approximately 1 inch. However, if you can, try it on and position the flaps how you prefer them best. You will need at least 1 inch in order to easily attach snaps, poppers, or buttons.

The Yoke should look like it now continues all the way around the neck, sitting nicely on the collar bone. The overlap where the Front joins the Back should be smooth. The fit on every person will be slightly different so if it doesn’t look smooth, move the overlap around so that it sits nicely.

If you are using buttons, stitch your buttonholes according to how your sewing machine does it on the Back Yoke, then apply the buttons on the Front Yoke.

NOTE – When using buttons, I prefer to use two small buttons to make sure the shoulder sits neatly. If you use just one big button, the Yoke can pull out of shape (especially in the larger sizes). If you want the look of a large button, an alternative is to use hand stitched snaps underneath and then stitch the large button on top as a decorative feature.

If you are using poppers or snaps, apply them now using your manufacturer’s instructions. Use two for each shoulder, evenly spaced between your top stitching.

NOTE – If you are using plastic poppers/snaps and have used either a medium/thick-weight fabric, and/or interfacing, you may need to use an awl (or anything metal with a sharp point) to first make a small hole to poke the popper/snap point through.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – with the right sides of the Skirt fabric together, use a serger or overlocker to serge the right side seam only using a 1 ¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat to serge the right side seam of the Skirt Lining pieces together (as the Skirt and Lining will be facing the same direction you leave the left side seam open for the zip on both). Press all seam allowances towards the back. Then skip to step 7.

NOTE – The seam allowance for serging is only 1 ¼ inches so it matches the exact Skirt width you would have gotten if you did the alternative French seam options below. If you do not wish to serge off such a large seam allowance, feel free to do a smaller one. Your Skirt will be marginally wider, but it will not affect the end look.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the right Skirt side seam together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

NOTE – Do not stitch the left side of the Skirt together yet as we will do this after we have inserted the zipper.

With wrong sides together (right sides outwards), stitch ⅝ inch from the edge along the right hand side seam of the Skirt. Leave what will be the left side seam open for the zip later.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – you are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the Skirt inside out and press the side seam.

Pin and stitch again approximately ⅝ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 with the right side seam of the Skirt Lining so it forms a long rectangle as well.

If you are doing the Netting layers, follow this step, otherwise skip to step 9.

REGULAR UPPER NETTING OPTION – Pin each of the upper Netting pieces together so they form one long rectangle. Stitch 1 ¼ inches from the edge along each of the seams. Do not make it into a circle, leave the left side seam open. Trim so the seams are neat and press it to the side.

NOTE – The seam allowance for this option is 1 ¼ inches so it matches the exact Skirt width of the Skirt you just constructed in step 6. You can use a regular seam allowance if you wish, however you’ll need to trim your Netting later when you put it all together so the Skirt and Netting match.

FULL UPPER NETTING OPTION – Pin each of your upper Netting pieces together so they form one long rectangle. Stitch ⅝ inch from the edge along each of the seams. Trim so the seams are neat and press to the side.

NOTE – When you are pressing Netting or tulle you will need to use a low heat on your iron, or it may melt. Test this first on a scrap of Netting using your iron manufacturer’s instructions.

Pin the four lower Netting pieces together so they form a long stretch of fabric. Stitch ⅝ inch from the edge along all seams. Trim so the seams are neat and press to the side.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches across the top of the lower Netting.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension.

Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, I like to start at one seam and sew to the next seam. This gives several sections of gathering which are much easier to gather later than one big, long section. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo). Start stitching again just after the side seam, and stitch around to the next seam.

You should now have two rows of gathering stitches all the way across the top of your lower Netting.

RUFFLER FOOT OPTION – If you have a ruffler foot attachment do not do this step, but instead align the Netting as described in step 7.7 and use your ruffler foot to attach the Netting to the Skirt. Skip to step 7.11.

TIP – stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!

REGULAR UPPER NETTING OPTION – Skip to step 7.5.

FULL UPPER NETTING OPTION – Repeat step 7.3 to create 2 rows of gathering stitches along the top of the upper Netting.

Fold the bottom of the Skirt Lining into quarters to find the center front, center back, left side and right side. Place pins in all 4 places then unfold it again.

The Skirt Lining should now be back in its long rectangle shape but with pins dividing the Lining into quarters along the bottom (hemline).

Repeat this step to divide the lower Netting into quarters.

NOTE – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

TIP – Pins can fall out of Netting quite easily. To avoid this, make sure to weave each pin in and out of the Netting a number of times, or use clips.

With the Skirt Lining right side up, and the Netting right side up, place the lower Netting on top of the Skirt Lining.

NOTE – Most netting fabrics do not have a right or wrong side. However, if yours does, place the wrong side of your Netting on the right side of your Lining fabric. In the finished dress the Lining will be next to the skin, and the Netting will be in the middle, then the dress fabric on top.

Align the hem of your lower Netting so that it is
1 inch longer than the raw edge of the dress.

Pin the top of the Netting to the Skirt Lining your quarter points.

TIP – When you place your pins, take care not to just have them touch the Skirt Lining and Netting. Do not pin the thread. If you pin the thread, you will have difficulty gathering the thread later.

NOTE – The hem allowance is 1 inch. This means if you do it like just described the overhang will end up being 2 inches when the dress has been hemmed.

We are now going to gather the Netting. The best way I find to do this is in sections. Back in step 7.3 you did your gathering stitches from seam to seam. Now gather from seam to seam.

Starting at a side seam, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the Netting. Gather the Netting all the way across the quarter you are working on until the Netting in that section fits the Skirt Lining.

You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers, so it looks evenly gathered. Then move on to the next quarter and so on until the whole Netting layer has been gathered and now fits the Waistband.

Make sure to keep the bottom of the Netting overhanging the bottom of the Lining by 1 inch. Pin in place.

NOTE – Your Skirt will still look far too wide at this point. Don’t worry, when we attach it to the Bodice later, we will gather it again.

TIP – I like to do this step by hanging the Skirt Lining over the edge of my ironing board. That way I have a flat section across the bit I’m working on, and I can easily see spread my gathers out evenly.

Stitch in between the two lines of gathering.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of gathering thread so that they come all the way through the ruffle. Find the thread from the underside of the ruffle and pull this out too.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there.

To attach the upper Netting, we will align it 1 inch below the top of the Skirt Lining. That way it will also overhang the hem by 1 inch like the lower Netting.

To pin the upper Netting to the Skirt, repeat steps 7.5 to 7.7.

REGULAR UPPER NETTING OPTION – This layer is flat so you can continue to pin all the way across the Skirt Lining to hold the Netting in place. The Netting and the Lining are the same width so there shouldn’t be any gathering required. If you find one is bigger than the other though, an easy way to fix it is to fold the excess over discretely at the side seams. This is the Lining of the Skirt, so you won’t see it in the finished garment. Stitch ⅝ inch from the edge all the way around to attach the Lining.

FULL UPPER NETTING OPTION – This option is gathered so repeat steps 7.8 to 7.10 to gather and attach the upper Netting to the Skirt.

Repeat step 7.3 to stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top of the Skirt Lining.

Repeat to stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top of the Skirt as well.

NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.

Fold the top of the Skirt into quarters to find the center front and center back. Place pins in to mark these points.

Fold the bottom of the Bodice in half vertically to find the center front and center back. Place pins in to mark these points.

Keep the Bodice Lining free, do not pin this.

Make sure that the Bodice is right side out. Turn the Skirt so it is wrong side out.

Place the Bodice upside down inside the Skirt.

Pin the Skirt to the Bodice at the center front and center back. Also pin the Skirt to the Bodice at the side seam that is stitched together, and at the side seam that is still open for the zip.

Make sure to keep the Bodice Lining free. Tuck it up inside the Bodice so it doesn’t get caught in the pins.

First pin a 1 inch section of the Skirt to the Bodice at each edge where the zip will go. Make sure this section is flat and not gathered.

Then repeat steps 7.8 to 7.10 to gather the rest of the Skirt, pin and stitch it to the Bodice and remove the gathering stitches.

NOTE – The left side seam where the zip will go will still be open.

Repeat steps 8.2 to 8.5 to attach the Skirt Lining to the dress.

Make sure the Lining is inside out when you put it over the Skirt (if you have done Netting it will be sandwiched between the Skirt and the Lining). Again, keep the Lining of the Bodice free.

Press seam allowance up towards the Bodice (away from the Skirt).

NOTE – Because you’ve already attached the Skirt, it can be tricky sometimes when you stitch the Lining on not to accidentally get the Bodice or Skirt tucked into your new seam with the Lining. What I recommend is to put the dress onto your sewing machine with the Bodice part facing upwards. That way you can check the Bodice is smooth and flattened away from your new seam as you sew, and you can use the previous seam line from the Skirt as a guide. Go slowly and keep lifting up the Skirt to check nothing is caught as you stitch.

At each of the edges, carefully trim the excess seam allowance from the Lining and the Skirt away. This helps reduce the bulk so getting the zip in later is easier.

We are now going to attach the Bodice Lining to the dress waistline.

Pin the folded hem of the Bodice Lining down around the waistline, making sure to tuck the raw edges of the Skirt in so they are hidden.

You should be aiming to pin the hem of the Bodice Lining approximately ⅛ inch below the stitching line where the Bodice joins the Skirt. This will cover the raw edges of the Skirt and make the Bodice nice and neat inside.

HAND STITCHING – The easiest way to stitch the Bodice Lining down is to slip stitch it by hand. If you are happy to hand stitch, do this now and then skip to step 10.1.

MACHINE STITCHING – This is a slightly more difficult option to get neat however what helps is to make sure you pin from the outside of the dress along the seam line between the Bodice and the dress (this is so it’s easy to remove the pins as you sew in the next step). Do not stitch yet.

Keep looking inside the dress as you do this to make sure to tuck all the raw edges from the Skirt inside the Bodice, so they are hidden, and that you are catching the Bodice Lining as you pin.

Take your time with pinning. It will make the next one much easier. I also tend to use a lot of pins.

Stitch on top of the seam line between the Bodice and the Lining from the outside of the dress.

TIP – If your sewing machine has a section you can remove around the sewing machine plate do this before you put the dress on your machine. That way you can curl the Bodice easily under and around it.

FIT CHECK – If this dress is for you or you have your model available, try the dress on now to check how it fits. Make any adjustments you wish to, and then carry on.

There are many methods of inserting invisible zippers.

If you are experienced with a particular method, please skim through the instructions below so you can see the end result and then feel free to follow your own preferred method.

If you do not have a preferred method, please follow the instructions below:

Pin and baste all layers together on each of the raw edges on the side seam that has been left open. Make sure to catch the dress, both layers of Netting and the Lining. Stop at the hem of the dress. Use a seam allowance of ⅜ inch.

If you are unfamiliar with basting, it is a loose long stitch that is just for temporarily holding fabric together. We will remove this later. If your sewing machine does not have a specific basting stitch, use
the same settings on your machine as you did in step 7.3 for gathering stitches.

Carefully trim the raw edges so they are neat.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edges of the side seam that has been left open. Make sure to catch all layers, including the dress fabric, Netting, and Lining. Serge all the way from the underarm down to the dress hem. Do not serge past the dress hem onto the exposed Netting as this will show later. Do not join the side seam together, just serge the raw edges.

Unzip your invisible zipper. Place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.

What you want to do here is iron the zip, so the teeth are as unfolded as possible. The best way I find to do this is press the teeth towards the center with my fingers gently then butt the iron up against them before sliding the iron along the rest of the zip. The zip will look a little odd now, but the teeth should now lay flat (vs being curled upwards as they are when the zip is done up).

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zip out a little to make it easier to attach.

Press a ⅝ inch seam allowance under along each edge of the dress (all the way along the Bodice and approximately 10 inches into the Skirt).

Unfold the seam allowance again. With your dress right side up, place your zipper teeth side down onto the dress.

Line up the left zip tape with the left seam allowance.

Align the top of the zip with the underarm of the dress. When the zip is done up later, this will leave just enough room above the zipper pull for a hook and eye.

Line the zipper teeth up with the folded seam allowance line. Pin the left side of the zip to the dress.

TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zip on the correct side of the dress. And that the zip and dress are right side to right side.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down to the bottom. Stop when the zipper pull gets in the way.

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, install your regular zipper foot. Stitch the zip to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down to the bottom. Stop when the zipper pull gets in the way (do not try to go around this as it will create a lump).

TIP – Hold the Skirt fabric out of the way as you go over the waistline. There is a lot of bulk here and it will help you from accidentally catching fabric you didn’t mean to.

Repeat steps 10.4 to 10.5 with the right zipper tape on the right side of the dress.

It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards, stopping when the zipper pull gets in your way. This will help keep the zipper aligned correctly and have you start and end in the same place on the dress.

TIP – You will need to use the opposite side of your zipper foot here. If you have an invisible zip foot, this means the zipper teeth should be in the right hand groove. If you have a regular zipper foot, you’ll need to switch it so you can stitch with the needle close to the right side of the zip.

FIT CHECK – If this dress is for you or you have your model available, try the dress on again now to check how it fits. Make any adjustments you wish to, then carry on.

Do the zip up. Pin together the left side seam.

Start stitching ½ inch above where the zip stitching ends. Stitch all the way down the side seam, stopping approximately 4 inches from the hem of the dress. You need to leave the last 4 inches open as we have not hemmed the dress yet.This will give you room in the next step to hem.

When you are stitching, stay as close to the zip as possible as you do the first ½ inch of the seam. You won’t be able to stitch directly on top of the zip seam as the zip teeth will be on the way. Just stay as close as you can to avoid a ‘bubble’ of fabric at the bottom of the zip.

TIP – Use your regular zipper foot to stitch this seam.

Fold the Skirt hem under by ½ inch and press. Make sure both edges of the hem by the side seams are the same length.

ALTERNATIVE – The hem instructions are for a folded hem. If you have a sewing machine, serger or Overlocker that does a roll hem you could do this instead. Just remember the hem allowance on the Skirt and Lining is a total of 1 inch so you’ll need to take this into consideration. If you have done the Netting layer, this does not require hemming.

Fold the hem under again by another ½ inch and press. Stitch close to the edge (approximately ⅛ inch from the edge).

Double check before you stitch that the hem at the side seam is still the same length.

TIP – Try on the dress again to check you are happy with the hem length before stitching.

Repeat steps 11.2 and 11.3 with the Lining hem.

NOTE – Your finished Lining layer should be the same length as your dress. It should not stick out underneath the dress. If you have done Netting layers, they will be 2 inches longer than the dress.

Stitch the last 4 inches of your side seam together.

Stitch straight down through all layers including the Netting.

NO SERGER – If you did basting stitches in step 10.1, pull these out now.

With your dress inside out, put it onto your ironing board (so the ironing board is inside the dress, and the side seam is facing upwards in the center of the ironing board).

Press the seam allowance for the left side seam open.

SERGER OPTION – Skip to step 12.1.

NO SERGER OPTION – Fold each side of the seam allowance in half, tucking the raw edge underneath and pinning it down. The raw edges should now be hidden. Hold the zip tape out of the way as you do the bit on each side of the zip. Do not catch the zipper tape with your seam allowance.

If you find the seam too bulky (especially around the waistline) to do this step easily, trim the Lining and Netting seam allowance away, leaving the dress fabric only as the full seam allowance. This will reduce the bulk and make it easier.

TIP – Keep your dress on your ironing board to pin the seam allowance. This helps keep the extra fabric out of the way. Just be careful not to pin your dress to the ironing board cover though.

NOTE – If you are following the no-serger option, steps 11.6 and 11.7 can be quite fiddly. The sole purpose of these steps is to hide the raw edges of the garment. If you do not mind raw edges, you can do a zig zag stitch along the raw edges to stop them fraying and skip to step 12.1. It will not give the same finish inside, however it’s much faster and easier!

Change your sewing machine foot to a regular zipper foot.

Take your dress off the ironing board. Check inside the dress that the pins look neat all the way up the seam. You are checking here that the Bodice and Skirt fabric is flat and not bunched. Also check that you haven’t caught any extra fabric you didn’t mean to.

Keeping your dress inside out, unzip the zipper. Stitch from the top of the Bodice, down to the waistline on both sides of the zip.

If you have a walking foot for your sewing machine, change to this now. Otherwise change to a regular foot.

Do the zip up. Stitch both sides of the seam allowance from the waist down to the hemline. When you start, try to match up your needle with where your stitching above the zip ended.

Attach your hook and eye to the top of the left side seam above the zip using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Usually this involves hand stitching the hook and eye on. There are several very good tutorials online how to do this as neatly and easily as possible. I recommend using a sturdy needle as you are working with several layers of fabric.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Sash go to step 10. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Waistband, go to step 11. If you are doing neither, your Dress is finished!

If you used a contrast color for your Sash, change your thread now so it matches.

Place one Tail piece right side to right side, on top of the Sash Center. Stitch ⅝ inch from the edge. Press seam outwards towards tail.

Place the other Tail piece right side to right side on the other end of the Sash Center. Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press seam outwards towards Tail.

Fold the Sash lengthwise, right side to right side and pin together.

If you like a diagonal end on your Sash, cut both ends at 45 degrees by folding as shown and then cutting on the fold.

Stitch along the raw edges only from point to point. Leave a gap in your stitching of approximately 1 ½ inches in the center of the Sash to turn it later.

Snip the corners from your points. Cut only about 2/3 of the way into the seam allowance. Do not snip too close to the stitching or it will fray.

Turn and press.

TIP – Using a blunt instrument like a chopstick or point-turner to poke the points of the Sash all the way out before pressing.

Starting at the bottom of the Sash, top stitch ⅛ inch from the edge all the way around one Tail, across the top of the Sash Center, and all the way around the other tail. Do not stitch across the bottom of the Sash Center section. We will do this later when we attach it to the dress front.

Pin the bottom center part of the Sash to the Bodice Front. Line up the bottom of the Sash so it overhangs the seam where the Bodice meets the Skirt by a little bit (⅛ to 1/6th inch) to hide the seam.

Make sure you have the Sash so that the section you didn’t top stitch is on the bottom and the fold on the top. The side seams of the Sash should line up with the side seams of the Bodice.

If you used a different color thread for the Sash, change to this now.

Stitch the center of the Sash to the Bodice. Start stitching where your top stitching finished, and stitch straight across the bottom of the Sash to meet up with your top stitching on the other side.

The Sash should now be attached to the dress and should have top stitching around all edges of the Sash.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Waistband, go to step 11. If you are not adding a Waistband, your Dress is finished!

Fold the Waistband lengthwise, right side to right side and pin together.

If you used a contrast color for your Waistband, change your thread to this now so it matches. 

Stitch along the raw edges. Leave the ends open

Turn and press.

Top stitch ⅛ inch from the edge all the way across the top of the Waistband. Do not stitch across the bottom of the Waistband. We will do this later when we attach it to the dress front.

Pin the Waistband to the waistline.

Make sure you have the Sash so that the section you didn’t top stitch is on the bottom, and the top stitched section is on the top.

Line up the bottom of the Waistband so it covers the seamline between the Bodice and Skirt by a little bit (⅛ to 1/6th inch) to hide the seam.

Trim the ends of your Waistband so that they overhang the zip edges by approximately ⅝ inch.

Fold each end under and tuck all the raw edges under the Waistband so you can’t see them.

Make sure to leave a little gap between the Waistband and the zip or you will have trouble doing the dress up. Once you’ve pinned it all, do your zip up and down a few times to check the Waistband isn’t in the way.

Stitch the sides and bottom of the Waistband to the Bodice.

The Waistband should now be attached to the dress and should have top stitching around all edges of the Waistband