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Home / Womens / Garments, Swimwear
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
6
Women's Ruched Swimsuit
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
A beginner-friendly, classic swimsuit sewing pattern for everybody, the Ruched Swimsuit features a square neckline and thick straps, optional plain or ruched front panel, and an optional high or low scooped back.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting your size – Choose your size from the chest measurement. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your chest measurement to the size for your waist, then to the size for your hip measurement.
- Height adjustment – This swimsuit is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. We suggest adjusting for height halfway through the armscye and at the waist. If you are taller/shorter you may also find that you need to make personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth, sway back, and/or bum.
- Rise – The crotch has been drafted to fit an average rise (the curve of the bottom). If you have a long or short torso or rise you may find you need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. The pattern measurements will have a negative ease, you will need sew a muslin to find the best fit. If you need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust (front or back), cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! It is highly recommended that you sew a muslin first (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) if this is the case for you. That way you can play around with the rise to get it perfect for you, and then you’ll have a master crotch line you can use on this and many other swimsuits, trousers, shorts etc. in the future to get them spot on.
- Bust adjustment – The pattern is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup).
- If your bust size is below a sewing C cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well.
- If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow the Princess Seam Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Use an inexpensive lycra swim fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when its exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, and salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- NOTE – You can use a wider elastic at the hem of the OPTIONAL Bust Support Panel. This is a personal preference based on the amount of support you may need.
- NOTE – Do not use clear elastic as this will not be strong enough.
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches
- Plain Center Front Panel:
-
- Main – cut 1 on fold
- Lining – cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Power mesh – cut 1 on fold
- OR Ruched Center Front Panel:
- Main – cut 1 on fold
- Lining – Plain Center Front Panel cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Power mesh – cut 1 on fold
- NOTE – You will need the Plain Center Front Panel pattern piece for the Lining and OPTIONAL Power Mesh
- Side Front Panel
- Main – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Power mesh – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back
- Main – cut 1 on fold
- Lining – cut 1 on fold
- NOTE – Use the cutting lines for the High or Low Scoop
- OPTIONAL Bust Support Panel – Power Mesh cut 2 on fold
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewRuched Swimsuit
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This fully lined one piece swimsuit has a square neckline and thick straps for support. The front has a center panel which can be plain or gathered, creating a totally unique color blocked swimsuit. You can also add power mesh to the front pieces for additional tummy support, and an optional support panel with elastic for additional bust support. Choose between a low or high back scoop and create a totally unique swimsuit.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hips
Center front length
Side neck point to crotch length
Front
Back
XXS
23.6
21.2
25.7
21.7
28.0
25.1
XS
25.0
22.3
27.3
22.1
28.3
25.6
S
26.3
23.3
28.7
22.6
28.6
26.1
M
28.0
24.7
30.3
24.0
29.1
26.6
L
29.5
26.5
31.7
23.6
29.6
27.3
XL
31.6
29.0
34.2
24.1
30.2
28.1
XXL
33.7
31.3
36.5
24.7
30.7
28.7
3XL
36.3
34.5
38.6
26.0
32.1
30.1
4XL
38.6
37.3
41.0
26.6
32.6
30.7
5XL
40.3
39.6
42.7
27.6
33.7
32.1
Fitting NotesThis swimsuit has full coverage at the leg openings and has built up shoulders.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
OPTIONAL Power mesh – You can also add 4-way stretch power mesh to the center front and side panels of the swimsuit for additional support. Or add the optional Bust Support Panel using power mesh.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Plain Front OPTION
Ruched Front OPTION
OPTIONAL Power mesh
OPTIONAL Bust support panel
Main and lining ONE fabric
Main
Lining
Main and lining ONE fabric
Main
Lining
XXS
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
0.50
XS
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
0.50
S
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
0.50
M
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
0.50
L
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
0.50
XL
1.50
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
0.50
XXL
1.50
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
0.50
3XL
1.50
1.00
1.00
1.75
1.25
1.00
1.00
0.50
4XL
1.75
1.00
1.00
1.75
1.50
1.00
1.00
0.50
5XL
1.75
1.00
1.00
2.00
1.50
1.00
1.00
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Plain front OPTION Ruched front OPTION Back OPTIONAL Bust
support panelXXS 2-6, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 XS 2-6, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 S 2-6, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 M 2-6, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 L 2-6, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 XL 2-6, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 XXL 2-6, 9, 16-17 2-7, 9, 16-17 10-13 8, 14-15 3XL 2-6, 9-10, 16-17 2-7, 9,-10, 16-17 10-14 8, 14-15 4XL 2-6, 9-10, 16-17 2-7, 9,-10, 16-17 10-14 8, 14-15 5XL 2-6, 9-10, 16-17 2-7, 9,-10, 16-17 10-14, 18-19 8, 14-15 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Plain front OPTION Ruched front OPTION Back OPTIONAL Bust
support panelXXS 2, 4-7, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 XS 2, 4-7, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 S 2-7, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 M 2-7, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 L 2-7, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16 10-13 8, 14-15 XL 2-7, 9, 16 2-7, 9, 16-17 10-13 8, 14-15 XXL 2-7, 9, 16-17 2-7, 9-10, 16-17 10-14 8, 14-15 3XL 2-7, 9-10 16-17 2-7, 9-10, 16-17 10-14 8, 14-15 4XL 2-7, 9-10 16-17 2-7, 9-10, 16-17 10-14 8, 14-15 5XL 2-10 16-17 2-10, 16-17 10-14 8, 14-15 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:
⅜ inch wide Elastic
Leg
(Cut 2)Low scoop back OPTION (Cut 1)
Neckline
(Cut 1)OPTIONAL
Bust support panel (Cut 1)XXS
17.0
24.0
15.0
11.0
XS
18.2
24.0
15.2
11.5
S
19.5
24.0
15.5
12.0
M
20.7
24.0
15.7
12.6
L
22.2
24.0
16.1
13.5
XL
23.6
24.0
16.3
14.7
XXL
24.6
24.0
16.5
16.0
3XL
27.1
24.0
16.7
17.6
4XL
28.5
24.0
17.0
19.1
5XL
30.1
24.0
17.3
20.3
Cutting Checklist:NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL POWER MESH – Baste Center Front Panel Lining onto Center Front Panel Power Mesh. Repeat for the two Side Front Lining and Power Mesh Panels.
- PLAIN FRONT OPTION – Place Main Center Front Panel and Center Front Panel Lining pieces right sides together at the neckline. Stitch. Stitch elastic to seam. Turn and press. Place Main Center Front Panel and Side Front Panel pieces right sides together, matching pattern marking on the Side Panel to the neckline on the Center Front. Pin. Place the Center Front Panel Lining and Side Front Panel Lining pieces right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Side Panel to the neckline on the Center Front. Place these onto the wrong side of the Main Center Front Panel. Starting at the top of shoulder, stitch. Repeat to attach the other Side Front Panel Main and Lining. Flip the Side Front Panel Main and Lining pieces wrong sides together. Press.
- RUCHED FRONT PANEL OPTION – Stitch gathering stitches to each side of the Main Center Front Panel between the markings. Gather it to match the Center Front Panel Lining markings. Place Main Center Front Panel and Center Front Panel Lining pieces right sides together at the neckline. Stitch. Place elastic at the seam allowance. Stitch. Turn and press. Place the Main Center Front Panel and Side Front Panel pieces right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Side Panel to the neckline on the Center Front. Pin. Starting at the neckline, baste using ¼ inch seam allowance. Place the Center Front Panel Lining and Side Front Panel Lining pieces right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Side Panel to the neckline on the Center Front. Place these onto the wrong side of the Main Center Front Panel. Starting at the top of shoulder, stitch. Repeat to attach the other Side Front Panel Main and Lining. Flip the Side Front Panel Main and Lining pieces wrong sides together. Press.
- OPTIONAL BUST SUPPORT PANEL – Place the two Bust Support Panels right sides together. Pin along the neckline and armscyes. Stitch. Turn. Baste together at hem, shoulders, and side seams. Mark quarter points of Bust Support Panel and elastic. Place elastic onto the right side of Bust Support Panel at hem. Stitch. Repeat to attach the armscye elastic to both armscyes. Lay the Front piece with the Lining right side facing up. Place the Bust Support Panel on top, right side facing up. Pin all outer edges. Stitch. Clip into the neckline where the straps meet the neckline. Press.
- FRONT ARMSCYE – Use burrito roll method to stitch the Side Front Panel Lining to the Main Side Front Panel on both sides. Pull the rolled-out section so that the Front is right side out. Press.
- HIGH SCOOP BACK OPTION – Stitch Main and Lining Back pieces right sides together.
- LOW SCOOP BACK OPTION – Place Main and Lining Back pieces right sides together. Stitch. Place elastic at the seam on the Lining. Stitch.
- BACK ARMSCYE – Stitch Main Back and Lining right sides together, at the armscye. Flip Lining over the Main so right sides are facing out. Press.
- SHOULDER AND SIDE SEAMS – Lay your Back piece wrong sides facing up and your Front piece right sides facing up. Lift the Main Back up and slide the Front in, Main side facing up. Slide the straps inside until the shoulders meet. Stitch. Place the sides of the Main and Lining right sides together, matching seams from Front to Back. Stitch. Repeat for the other side seam. Turn the swimsuit right side out. Press.
- BOTTOM SEAM – Take the Front Lining, Back Lining and Main Back and pin them together. Take the Main Front and twist it over to lay right sides together with the Main Back. Stitch. Turn suit right side out.
- LEG ELASTIC – Stitch ends of elastic, overlapping by ½ inch each. Baste Main to Lining at leg opening. Mark quarter points on leg opening and elastic. Place elastic onto Lining, matching quarter points and raw edges. Stitch. Fold opening over to inside by width of the elastic. Topstitch. Repeat for second leg opening.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Power Mesh
If you would like to add power mesh for additional support, follow below to add to the Front Lining pieces. If you are not adding power mesh, skip to step 1.
Place the Center Front Panel Lining onto the Center Front Panel Power Mesh, wrong sides together. Pin along all outer edges.
Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
Repeat for the two Side Front Lining and Power Mesh Panels.
NOTE – You will now treat each piece as one.
1 . Plain Front OPTION1.0If you are sewing the gathered front version skip to step 2.
1.1Place the Main Center Front Panel and Center Front Panel Lining pieces right sides together at the neckline. Pin.
1.2Place the elastic at the seam. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
1.3Place the elastic at the seam. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
1.4Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic using a zig zag or stretch stitch.
NOTE – Do not stretch the elastic or it will gather the neckline.
NOTE – If you are using a serger to attach the elastic, turn the knife off before starting.
1.5Turn right side out and press.
1.6Place the Main Center Front Panel and Side Front Panel pieces right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Side Panel to the neckline on the Center Front. Pin.
NOTE – Check you are attaching the correct Side Panel.
1.7Place the Center Front Panel Lining and Side Front Panel Lining pieces right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Side Panel to the neckline on the Center Front.
Place these onto the wrong side of the Main Center Front Panel piece from step 1.6.
NOTE – You are pinning four layers together here. The Main and Lining Center Front and Side Front Panels. The Main and Lining Center Front will be sandwiched between the Main and Lining Side Front.
1.8Starting at the top of shoulder, serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.9Repeat steps 1.6 to 1.8 to attach the other Side Front Panel Main and Lining.
1.10Flip the Side Front Panel Main and Lining pieces wrong sides together. Press.
NOTE – This will now be treated as one Main Front piece.
2 . Ruched Front Panel OPTION2.0If you have sewn the Plain Front OPTION skip to step 3.
2.1Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the pattern markings on either side of the Main Center Front Panel.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ⅛ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. top to bottom). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
2.2Lay the Center Front Panel Lining piece down.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Main Center Front Panel.
Gather all the way across until the Main Center Front Panel is the same length as the Center Front Panel Lining on both sides.
Gently spread out the Main Center Front Panel so that it is evenly gathered.
2.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.5Cut a piece of elastic the length of the neckline. Place the elastic at the seam. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
2.6Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic using a zig zag or stretch stitch.
NOTE – Do not stretch the elastic or it will gather the neckline.
NOTE – If you are using a serger to attach the elastic, turn the knife off before starting.
2.7Turn right side out and press.
2.8Place the Main Center Front Panel and Side Front Panel pieces right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Side Panel to the neckline on the Center Front. Pin.
NOTE – Check you are attaching the correct Side Panel.
2.9Starting at the neckline, baste using ¼ inch seam allowance. This will help keep the gathers in place before stitching the seam.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2.10Place the Center Front Panel Lining and Side Front Panel Lining pieces right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Side Panel to the neckline on the Center Front.
Place these onto the wrong side of the Main Center Front Panel piece from step 2.8.
NOTE – You are pinning four layers together here. The Main and Lining Center Front and Side Front Panels. The Main and Lining Center Front will be sandwiched between the Main and Lining Side Front.
2.11Starting at the top of shoulder, serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Remove any visible gathering stitches.
2.12Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.11 to attach the other Side Front Panel Main and Lining.
2.13Flip the Side Front Panel Main and Lining pieces wrong sides together. Press.
NOTE – This will now be treated as one Main Front piece.
3 . OPTIONAL Bust Support Panel3.0The OPTIONAL Bust Support Panel can be added to the Plain or Gathered Front.
NOTE – We are showing the Plain Front Panel in the photographs, however, the steps are the same.
3.1Place the two Bust Support Panels right sides together. Pin along the neckline and armscyes.
3.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Turn right side out.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one piece.
3.3Baste the two pieces together at the hem, shoulders, and side seams, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
3.4Mark the quarter points of the Bust Support Panel hem and the elastic. Place the elastic onto the right side of the Bust Support Panel at the hem edge. Pin.
3.5Serge or stitch using ¼ seam allowance, stretching the elastic taught as you sew.
3.6Lay the Front piece with the Lining right side facing up. Place the Bust Support Panel on top, right side facing up. Flip the elastic so its lying flat with right sides facing up. Pin all outer edges to ONLY the Lining.
3.7Baste the Bust Support Panel shoulder and side seams to the Lining using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
4 . Front Armscye4.0This step is the same for all options. NOTE – We are showing the Plain Front Panel in the photographs, however, the steps are the same.
You are going to use a burrito roll method in this step. This will enclose the front armscye seam. The Front will then be right sides out and finished along the armscyes.
NOTE – If you have added the Bust Support Panel, it will not be attached at the neckline or the armscye.
4.1Lay the Front with the Main right side facing up. Starting from one side, begin rolling tightly toward the opposite side.
4.2Once the Front is rolled to the opposite edge, open the Side Front Panel Lining away from the Main.
Carefully pull the Lining underneath the rolled section, so the roll is centered over the neck seam. Then match the Side Front Panel Lining and Main right sides together, with the rolled section in between the layers.
4.3Pin the Main and Lining, right sides together, along the entire edge of the armscye.
NOTE – Check you have not pinned the rolled up section.
NOTE – Make sure you are not grabbing the Bust Support Panel as it is not attached to the armscye.
4.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Make sure you have not stitched the rolled up section or the Bust Support Panel in the seam.
4.5Pull the rolled out section so that the Front is right side out. Press.
4.6Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for the other side.
5 . High Scoop Back OPTION5.0If you are sewing the Low Scoop Back OPTION skip to step 6.
5.1Place the Main and Lining Back pieces right sides together. Pin along the back neck.
5.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Skip to step 7.
6 . Low Scoop Back OPTION6.0If you have sewn the High Scoop Back OPTION skip to step 7.
6.1Place the Main and Lining Back pieces right sides together. Pin along the back neck.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6.3Place the elastic at the seam on the Lining. Pin.
6.4Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic, stitching within the seam allowance, using a zig zag or stretch stitch. Hold the elastic taught, but not stretched while sewing.
NOTE – If you are using a serger to attach the elastic, turn the knife off before starting.
7 . Back Armscye7.0This step is the same for all options. NOTE – We are showing the High Scoop Back in the photographs, however, the steps are the same.
7.1Place the Main and Lining Back right sides together, pin along the armscye.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7.3Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 for the other side.
7.4Flip the Lining over the Main so right sides are facing out. Press.
8 . Shoulder and Side Seams8.0This step is the same for all options. NOTE – We are showing the Plain Front and High Scoop Back in the photographs, however, the steps are the same.
8.1Lay your Back piece wrong sides facing up and your Front piece right sides facing up.
8.2You will be placing the Front inside the Back, with the Main Back facing up. Lift the Main Back up and slide the Front in, Main side facing up. Slide the straps inside until the shoulders meet. Pin.
8.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.4Place the sides of the Main and Lining right sides together, matching seams from Front to Back. Pin.
NOTE – You are pinning the Main Front and Back together and the Front and Back Lining together.
8.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.6Repeat steps 8.4 to 8.5 for the other side seam.
8.7Turn the swimsuit right side out. Press.
9 . Bottom Seam9.1Take the Front Lining, Back Lining and Main Back and place them together. Pin.
NOTE – You are not attaching the Main Front here.
9.2Take the Main Front and twist it over to lay right sides together with the Main Back. Pin.
NOTE – All four layers will now be pinned together.
9.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
9.4Turn suit right side out.
10 . Leg Elastic10.1Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.
10.2Baste the Main and Lining together at the leg opening.
10.3Mark the quarter points on the leg opening and the elastic.
10.4Place the elastic onto the Lining, matching quarter points and raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – Place the bulky elastic join near the side seam, so it does not rub or bother more sensitive places.
10.5Stitch the elastic using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2mm is recommended.
10.6Fold the leg opening over to the inside by the width of the elastic. Pin.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
10.7Topstitch close to the edge of the elastic using a stretch stitch.
NOTE – Topstitching close to the inside edge of the elastic helps prevent the elastic from flipping to the right side.
10.8Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.7 for the second leg opening.
Your Swimsuit is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Ruched Swimsuit is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpruchedswimsuit
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewRuched Swimsuit
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This fully lined one piece swimsuit has a square neckline and thick straps for support. The front has a center panel which can be plain or gathered, creating a totally unique color blocked swimsuit. You can also add power mesh to the front pieces for additional tummy support, and an optional support panel with elastic for additional bust support. Choose between a low or high back scoop and create a totally unique swimsuit.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hips
Center front length
Side neck point to crotch length
Front
Back
XXS
23.6
21.2
25.7
21.7
28.0
25.1
XS
25.0
22.3
27.3
22.1
28.3
25.6
S
26.3
23.3
28.7
22.6
28.6
26.1
M
28.0
24.7
30.3
24.0
29.1
26.6
L
29.5
26.5
31.7
23.6
29.6
27.3
XL
31.6
29.0
34.2
24.1
30.2
28.1
XXL
33.7
31.3
36.5
24.7
30.7
28.7
3XL
36.3
34.5
38.6
26.0
32.1
30.1
4XL
38.6
37.3
41.0
26.6
32.6
30.7
5XL
40.3
39.6
42.7
27.6
33.7
32.1
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
OPTIONAL Power mesh – You can also add 4-way stretch power mesh to the center front and side panels of the swimsuit for additional support. Or add the optional Bust Support Panel using power mesh.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Plain Front OPTION
Ruched Front OPTION
OPTIONAL Power mesh
OPTIONAL Bust support panel
Main and lining ONE fabric
Main
Lining
Main and lining ONE fabric
Main
Lining
XXS
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
0.50
XS
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
0.50
S
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
0.50
M
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.25
1.00
0.75
0.50
L
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
0.50
XL
1.50
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
0.50
XXL
1.50
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
0.50
3XL
1.50
1.00
1.00
1.75
1.25
1.00
1.00
0.50
4XL
1.75
1.00
1.00
1.75
1.50
1.00
1.00
0.50
5XL
1.75
1.00
1.00
2.00
1.50
1.00
1.00
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when its exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, and salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- NOTE – You can use a wider elastic at the hem of the OPTIONAL Bust Support Panel. This is a personal preference based on the amount of support you may need.
- NOTE – Do not use clear elastic as this will not be strong enough.
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
- ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.